Page last updated 22/04/06
Places to Visit in Elmet.
Now this is a forest and a festival!
So much to see - and most of it not listed in the usual tourist books!
Houses, museums, sites; ancient & historic.
Information to be added on;-
Sandal Castle
Chantry Chapel Wakefield
Pontefract Castle
Hook Moor Celtic Settlement - new find!
Pontefract Hermitage
Pontefract Museum
Counting House Inn Pontefract
Harewood House
Lotherton Hall
Royal Armouries Leeds
Kirkstall Abbey
Ledston Hall
Parlington Park
Temple Newsham
Bramham Hall & Park
Hazelwood Castle
Steeton Hall Gateway
Selby Abbey
Diverse ancient inns.
Place Names.
How much we can learn from a site's name. But can we? Can we be sure?
Sherburn-in-Elmet is said to come from shyre burn - clear stream. But, tidy as that would be, can we be sure? Names have changed over the centuries, spellings have varied greatly.
At present-day Castleford was a Roman fort by the ford, Tadcaster also had a Roman fort. The name for this was caister, hence Tadcaister - Tadscaster. In the Castleford situation the word caister changed over the centuries to it's medieval equivalent, castle, so Caisterford was now Castleford.
Clean and simple. If we can rely on it. Spelling didn't really become set until as late as 150 years ago. If Caister can change to Castle then what possibilities do other names have?
Look at modern day Aberford, there were two streams there which joined the Cock and the Crow. A 'confluence' or the 'mouth-of' rivers in the British tongue was/is 'aber' - enough examples are to be found in Welsh placenames. And there the old Roman Great North Road forded the Cock River. Aber - ford. Nice.
But hold fire. There also is reputed to be the remains of an abbey - perhaps even the one built by the monks of Iona soon after the one at Lindisfarne. So could the name have come from 'abbey-ford'? Or 'abbot's ford'? Both are possible. The Norman family that took the area after 1066 came from Abbeville in France. The church is still the only one in England dedicated to St. Ricarius of Abbeville. So could we be looking at a time-shortened version of Abbeville-ford?
Nothing can be 100% certain. Indeed early maps of the area do show Aberford spelled with two 'b's' - Abberford. It is all too easy to take the obvious route - the obvious 'present-day' route.
But changes have happened and no one can be 100% certain that the version of a name which is now set firm in peoples minds by being written down is the original meaning or spelling.
Go back 200 years and Sherburn was Sherborn - at least on one map. If that map had been the key to Sherburn's naming then thus it would be today. The term 'shyre' can mean 'clean' - but there is York'shire' too - and that doesn't. It may mean nothing or it may mean everything - but allowances must be made when charging off down 'obvious' paths.
The suffix 'ton' is where the word 'town' came from. That is tidy enough.
But our own Barkston was also once spelled 'Barkstone' - many other 'ton's' may have been once too. It may mean something, it may mean nothing. But was it Bark's Town, or was it Bark's Stone? Just a simple example of how it is so easy to take that easy route. Keep an open mind.
Lets make a start.......
Cawood Castle. South Gateway. 1897. Click on image to enlarge.
Cawood
By Edmund Bogg 1892.
This village stands on the banks of the Ouse, some few hundred yards south of the mouth of the Wharfe.
Renowned in history as once sheltering, in adversity, that great and ambitious churchman, Wolsey, also as being the place where the celebrated feast was given by Archbishop George Neville, the brother of Warwick the Kingmaker. It was also a Roman station of some note. The old Roman ford crossed the river opposite the church and many Roman relics have been found.
About the year 935, after the victory obtained by Athelstone over the combined armies of Northumbrians, Danes and Scots known as the Battle of Brunanburgh, Cawood Castle was given by the king to Wulstan, as a home for the Archbishop of York. A very fine specimen of ancient gateway and tower of the castle still remains, also portions of mullioned windows, which are still to be seen in the old farm buildings. The meadow in front is still called the Bishop's Close, around which can still be seen the remains of the moat which joined the river near the present bridge, erected in 1872.
What a series of historical scenes arise before our mental gaze as we think over the past history of this castle. In imagination we see the country around as one vast forest with fens and marshy wastes, the rude dwellings of our remote ancestors stood on the higher ground adjoining the river, around which some strong enclosure would be built, to protect them. To this region came Cassibellanus, the British king who having first routed Caesar's army, was finally conquered by the legions of Rome. Seven years after the conquest this prince died and was buried at York.
As time rolled on, our fancy sees the war galleys of Imperial Rome passing this spot. That richly gilt vessel probably contains Constantine, the Emperor of the World, passing along the bosom of the old Ouse to York, the beautiful city of conquering Rome, and the home of her emperors 1800 years ago.
Cawood was the Roman station, midway between Castleford and Eboracum, and the Roman road passing between crossed the river near to the present church.
The making of those great military roads, which opened communication throughout Britain, to some extent broke up the forest. Great tracts of land that had only been waste and dreary places were reclaimed and were seen smiling with waving corn. Merchants from the East sailed up the Ouse in their vessels bringing merchandise from all parts of the earth. As generations passed the Romans gradually lost their power and finally disappeared from Britain. From the opposite shores now came several piratical tribes of Gothic origin.
to be etc.....
Wetherby
Aberford
Barkston Ash
The so-called centre of Yorkshire
Knaresborough
Edmund Bogg 1898.
Before proceeding into the town of Knaresborough, it would be wise to go down to the river side, beginning at the guide's house, of St. Robert's Cave.
The following tale is told concerning a character in this neighbourhood. Many years ago, the guide to St. Robert's Cave was the admiration of all artists, with his ancient costume, long hair and flowing beard, and face being so full of character, was worthy the brush of Rembrandt. But no persuasion on their part could induce him "ta hev 'is picter taen," as he would remark with a shake of his grey head.
An artist of repute from the adjacent town had often called to see this venerable worthy, and at length overcame his antipathy, and promised to pose as a model for him, and an artist friend from London, who particularly wanted a figure of the above description. Time was set apart for the interesting work, and the night before the visit our artist arrived from the city. The following morning found them on Abbey Plain, in eager anticipation for work; but, great was their disappointment and vexation, to find the old venerable had been to the hair-dresser, and parted with his silvery flowing locks and beard. So ends the story.
We may now keep close by the river, or take the lane which leads to the same point. Here we come to the site of the Old Abbey; nothing now remains save the dungeon, and a few traces of masonry, which have been sacrilegiously used for walls in the immediate vicinity.
Passing Abbey House, the residence of Miss Lee, we reach the river side again, near which many elms raise their colossal heads in contrast to the humble cots that now on every hand nestle by rock and river. On our right hand is Rock House, or Simpson's Cave, so called on account of a family of that name living here. The last of the Simpsons died about twenty five years ago ; since that time the cave has not been inhabited. It is supposed that at one time this was the hiding place of notorious highwaymen. We now follow the path from here to the cragg top, a fovourite walk of lovers and tourists. Down below the river rushes onward ; extensive views on every hand. The town in front opens out before us like a panorama, and fills our mind with the beauty of the surrounding scene.
Leaving the cragg top by the footpath to the plain, we now pass underneath the shade of the immense rock and arrive opposite St. Robert's Chapel which is cut out of the solid rock. On one side of the entrance is the figure of a knight in the act of drawing his sword. From the chapel we ascend by a flight of steps to Fort Montague. an interesting place hewn out of the solid cliff by a poor man who for twelve years worked hard and after his death his son carried on the undertaking finishing the work his father began.
Here a very pleasant hour may be spent inspecting the various objects of interest.
Knaresborough Town.
Here the most ancient inhabitants of Britain dwelt, and their rude wattled dwellings would easily be built up against the rock, giving them the only shelter which they deemed necessary. As the stream of time rolled on, the people in this fair dale, clad in skins, hunted the wild animals of the forest, which at that distant date were numerous. Gradually a conciderable settlement grew up beside the river, adding to the natural strength of the place by the making of ramparts of earth and trees, and sinking ditches. When the Romans appeared on the scene, Knaresborough rose to the dignity of a military station. Good roads were opened out from one end of the land to the other ; the making of these would break up the quiet of the forest, and the country through which they ran would be reclaimed. Corn-fields and meadows sprangs where once had been dense woods.
Generations came and went, filled with alternate peace and war, when after the fatal battle of Senlac these fair lands fell into the hands of William the Norman. Mighty and important were the changes that then took place. Strong castles were erected throughout the land, chiefly on the sites of Saxon and Roman strongholds, and certainly no more suitable place than Knaresborough could have been chosen for a fortress, its elevated position commanding such an extensive view of the surrounding country.
The remains of the ancient castle, which stands on a rocky eminence at the base of which flows the river Nidd, overlooks and is the chief feature of a landscape of singular charm and beauty. The castle was first built about the year 1100 by Serlo de Burgh, he having previously received the barony from William the Conqueror, for services rendered by him to the monarch. Little can now be seen of its former grandeur and magnificence, but evidence of its once mighty strength are everywhere suggestive, for anticipating assault and skill in the plans of defence, and modes for defeating a surprise, it is truly remarkable.
Leland, living in the time of Henry VIII writes of this castle ; "As standing magnificently and strongly on the rock, and hath a very deep ditche hewen out of the rock, where it is not defended by the river Nidde, and there runneth in a dead strong bottom. I numbered eleven or twelve towers in the woul of the castle, one very fayre besides. In the second were two other lodgings of stone." The town and the surrounding hamlets suffered dreadfully in the fearful scourge of devastation made by the Conqueror in 1070.
About the year 1133, Eustace Fitz-John, nephew of the founder, was lord of the castle, and is mentioned in history for his great kindness to the monks of Skelldale, who were often reduced to the necessity of eating the leaves of trees and wild herbs, but their courage and patience did not forsake them ; and one day, when their stock of provisions was only two loaves and a half, a stranger, passing that way, asked for a mouthful of bread to appease his hunger. "Give him a loaf, " said the Abbot ; "the Lord will provide." The hope thus piously expressed was soon fulfilled. A cart piled with bread was seen coming down a rocky pathway, a present from Eustace Fitz-John. But better times were in store for these needy monks, as one of their number, writing a few years later says, "We have bread and cheese, butter and ale, and soon we shall have beef and mutton."
This Eustace was a great warrior, taking the side of the Empress Maud against Stephen, but he was at last forced to flee into Scotland, fighting in the Scotch army at the battle of Northallerton, 1138; and was slain in the battlefield when fighting against the Welsh, 1156.
The four knights who murdered Thomas a Beckett fled here for refuge hoping the king would look over their foul work. It, however, turned out otherwise than they had expected. One historian says : "That they, utterly despairing of pardon, fled, one into one place, and one into another, so that within four years they all died an evil death."
During the latter part of the twelth century, the castle and manor was granted by Henry II to William de Stuteville for the nominal service of three knights' fees. However, in the year 1190 this baron had to pay a trifle dearer for possession, King Richard demanding two thousand pounds from him, to retain unmolested, the castle, forest and lands. This noble was that fierce prosecutor of the holy man, St. Robert, and drove him from his cell to the woods. He afterwards repented and became his friend.
King John and his fair Queen made several visits to Knaresborough, during his reign, probably to hunt in the royal forest ; as in one item of his hunting expenses is mentioned, among other things, five Spanish horses, forty Vultra, one hundred and eighty two Beagles and thirty-eight other dogs. John had a great passion for hunting, like all other Norman kings.
He would not be a very welcome guest, as his tyranny, lust and greed caused him to put great pressure on the inhabitants. In one of his decrees he orders that all hedges and fences near the royal forest should be thrown down, that his deer might have free access to pasture in the cultivated lands. He also forbade the nobles to hunt feathered game, one of their favourite amusements ; arbitrary taxes, and his many crimes, so disgusted all classes of society, especially the barons on whom he depended for assistance, afford striking proof that our ancestors, Norman and Saxon, had weighty reasons for demanding from the base king that Magna Carta, the great Charter of English liberties.
In 1222 the manor and castle then belonging to the crown, Brian de Insula was put in possession during the king's pleasure.
Henry III next gave it to Hubert de Burgh Earl of Kent, he rendering in exchange for the same, yearly, one hundred pounds for all services and demands. This Hubert was a most worthy man, and stood well in the favour of the king and the people, his memory being cherished for generations.
Rougemont
This is in the valley below Harewood house and castle - over the river bridge and first right............
(Edmund Bogg 1922)
.......we reach Rougemont, a strongly fortified position overlooking a large bend or bay of the Wharfe. Rougemont may mean the red cliff or the Reich-mont of the Norsemen. The Hill of Government, the monks called it De Rubeo Monte, the local people pronounce it Richemont or Ridgemont. By marriage of the Countess of Albemarl, Lady of Harewood, with Baldwin-de-Beton for her third husband, for this rich heiress of Albemarl conferred the title of earl successively on her three husbands, William-de-Mandeville, Williem-de-Fortibus, and Baldwin-de-Beton, and from the latter this family of De Lisles were introduced to Harewood and Rougemont, and from their possession in the Isle of Wight were to be known in perpituity as De-Insula or Lisle. And here in this lone spot they resided for several generations. In 1205 a Brian-de-Insula was Constable of the Castle and Forest of Knaresborough. Of the De-Insulas the most notable was John, sometime Lord of Rougemont. He attended the King in the French wars and was made one of the Knights of the Garter on the first formation of that Order.
He attended the Black Prince during the campaign into Gascony and commanded the main body of the army; in this expedition he was wounded fatally by an arrow shot from a crossbow. The figure of this warrior, previous to the restoration of 1793, was to be seen in the east window of Harewood Church.
On the marriage of Margaret, heiress of the John de Lisle's of Rougemont, to Sir William-de-Aldburgh, of Aldburgh Richmondshire, the old fortress of Rougemont appears to have gone into rapid decay; some of the material may have been used in the extension and rebuilding of Harewood Castle, anyhow, as a place of resisdence it was abandoned, the purpose for which it was intended no longer existed. In the early times of the Forest it gave shelter to a chieftain whos might was right. Although nearly six centuries have passed since the De Lisles were resident here, the site, encompassed by moat and bank can be easily traced.
From Harry Speight's 'Tadcaster and Environs' 1903
Pubs and Inns of Elmet:- 9th to 18th century.
See 'Tourism' page.
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