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A Couple of Tours Through Elmet.

Via Car or Computer.

The first is today - with much history of course - and takes you north from Castleford to Tadcaster and then south through Towton to South Milford.

The second is a tour up the Wharfe from Cawood - as taken in 1892.

This page may take a few minutes to download to your computer

Please - bare with us - it's contents took 2000 years to happen !!

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First Published 27 March 1997

Last Updated 29/06/06

If any group or individual has further information, additions or differing evidence and would like to share it here then please get in touch by email on tykes@boozer.co.uk. Any support we can offer such groups or individuals is available for the asking.

Using our maps, (see "Maps" page) our photo's and our directions you can see Elmet as it is today - along with a description of the history, people and tales that belong to each place along the route.

Here is the tour map

That's two thousand years of interest and interaction.

This is being worked on as time permits - please bare with us - we are updating the tour daily and adding more information as it becomes available. Thank you.

Where early documents describe a village or family the usage of legal terminology can often confuse. Here are some examples of their meaning from:-

"  The Exposition of Termes of the Law, Ed. 1592, Distresse is the thinge which is taken and distrained upon any land for rent behind, or other duty, or for hurt done, although that the propertie of the thing belongeth to a stranger. But if they be beastes that belong to a stranger, it behoueth that they were tenant or couchant upon ye same ground, yt is to say, that the beastes have bin upon the ground certain space, that they have themselfe well rested there, or els they be not distreinable for rent or service. And if anyone distreine for rent or other thing without lawful cause, then the party greeued shall have a repleuine, and upon suretie found to pursue his action shall have the distresse to him deliuered again. But there be diuers thinges which be not distreinable, viz., an other man's gown in the house of a tailor, or cloth in the house of a fuller, sheereman, or weauer, for that they be common artificers, and that the common presumption is that such things belong. not to the artificer, but to other persons which put them there to be wrought. Also Vittail is not distreinable, nor come in sheues, but if they be in carts for that that a distress ought to be alway of such things whereof the sheriff may, make replemne and deliuer again in as good case as it was at the time of the taking. A man may distrain for homage and fealty, and escutage and other services, and for fines and amerciamentes which bee assessed in a Leete, but not in a court baron: and also for damage feasant, that is to say, when he findeth the beasts or goods of any other doing hurt or cumbring his ground. But a man may not distrain for any rent or thing due for any land but upon the same land that is charged therewith: but in case where I come to distrain, and the other seeing my purpose chaseth the beastes and beareth the thing out, to the intent that I shall not take it for a distresse upon the. ground, then I may weIJ pursue, and if I take it personally in the highway, or in another's ground, the taking is lawful .as well there as upon the ground charged., to whom soeuer the propertie of the goodes be. Also for fines and amerciaments which be assessed in a Leete, one may alway take the goods of him that is so amerced, in whose ground soeuer they bee wythin the jurisdiction of the court as it is said. And when one hath taken a distress it behoueth him to bring it to the common pound or els he may keepe it in an open place, so that he giue notice to the partie that he (if the distress be a quick beast) may giue to it food, and then if the beast die for default of food, he yt was distrained shall be at the losse (and then the other might distrain again for the same rent or duty). But if hee carry ye distress to a hold or out of the county that the shirife may not make deliuerance upon the repleuin, then ye partie upon the retorne of the shirife shall have a writ of withernam dyrected to the shiriffe that he take as many of his beasts, or as much goodes of the other in his keeping till he hath made delieurance of the first distress. And also if they be in a forslet or castel, the shirife may take with him the power of ye countie and beat down the castel as it appeareth by the statute West. I ca 17, therefore looke the statute.  "

Okay - so I am not making it all THAT easy!

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WELCOME!!

We would begin our visit in the old town and environs of Pontefract, Pomfret as it was known to Shakespeare and others of his day.

It is far from being the oldest site in Elmet, but its castle and market are interesting enough to warrant their own page in this website. (GoPomfret).

So for this page's tour around the area we will start to the north of Pontefract, over the river, just North of Castleford.......

Elmet is a very interesting area for anyone with a passion for the past. Everywhere are witnesses to the work and the wars of the last two thousand years.
Indeed people have 'toured' Elmet for thousands of years. The Roman Empire was the first to bring in an 'organised' road system, at least as far as we know and information on this system is being increased all the time. Communication is the key to all military actions and Rome's hold on the area was a constant military operation of one kind or another for nearly four centuries.
The most obvious legacy of this work is Ridge Road. This stretches virtually due North from Castleford to Aberford, In places it is still officially named Roman Ridge Road. It cut a swathe through the area that must have been a permanent reminder to every native Brigantii soul that they were now 'Roman'. It scratched it's way across the landscape in the early 70's A.D..
We will start our tour where that very road crossed the River Aire at Castleford.
The name 'Castleford' is a lovely picture in itself. It derives from Caister-ford - the Roman fort at the ford - but then the word 'castle' came from 'caister' too - so the path is a parallel one.
We will deal with this small, fortified crossing later, first let us look due-North, up along that old thoroughfare that has served this place - and many places miles to the North and miles to the South - for nearly two millennia. It was constructed, as we have said, around the year 70AD.
Here it crosses the flats of the valley basin moving away from from the confluence of the Aire and Calder Rivers towards the rise ahead. To either side of this stretch are small villages with histories all their own.

Due West of us is the village of Allerton Bywater. It's name says it all. History adds little else.
Straight ahead - across the modern crossroads - we see the old Roman way stretch forward and start to climb the valley side. To the left of it is the gateway into the old estate of Kippax. To the right we would see the 16th century majesty of Ledston Hall. But we turn right at the crossroads and head  due East,  - running now parallel with the course of the river - on the old road to Fairburn. Four hundred yards down here we swing left into Ledston lane. If we carried straight on we would skirt the present-day bird sanctuary on Fairburn Ings - along with the site of an early monastery.
But left we go and over the the bridge which crosses the small stream. Said stream was dammed some centuries ago along side the Roman road to create a mill race which crosses our path in the trees ahead. Here stood Ledston's old water mill.
This whole area is steeped in history. The name Lead crops up many times and in many variations in Elmet. Lead, Ledston, Ledsham, Leeds, Leathley etc. and all recall that that this was the land of the Loidis or Loedes, a Briganti tribe in pre-Roman Britain. . Their memory lingers.
Two thousand years ago many of the people of this area lived along the slope ( bank ) ahead of us. Likely the river flats we stand upon were little more than swampland then. Over to the left of our present path we can see a wood clinging to the side of the hill. That wood covers a hillock that was a British settlement and defensive position before Roman times and a place of occupation until right into the 17th century at least.

Ledston Hall.
The village of Leadston that we are passing through is of later vintage and grew along the new road system serving the Hall, which is an Elizabethan structure.
Through the village and climbing the gentle time worn road to the junction we can see that straight opposite is what is now a cart track continuing up the hill. There before us, to the sides of this track is the site of the original Celtic village. Nothing remains above ground now to mark this historical place.

Kippax at the turn of this century.
Turning left towards Kippax we arrive back on the Roman Ridge Road at a crossroads called 'Mary Pannell'. It is named so after the unfortunate woman who was burned here as a witch.

Mary Pannel or Pannell was a maid at Ledston Hall towards the end of the 16th century. She, like many others, had a knowledge of 'old' medicines and prepared a lotion to be rubbed upon the chest of the young son of the house, one Master William Witham Esq. who was suffering from a chill. His mother mistakenly gave it to the lad to drink and poisoned him. She blamed Mary and accused her of being a witch. This was in May 1593. Mary was tried in 1603 at York and convicted. She was burned to death on the hill that bares her name that same year. Local tales tell that she haunts the hill and its Roman road leading a horse. Anyone who witnesses the apparition will have a death in the family soon after

 At this crossroads was an Inn which survived from medieval times until the beginning of this century - only short sections of stone wall mark it's existence today.
Ahead, but one half mile, is the ancient town of Kippax.

Kippax is in the Skyrack Wapentake and situated in a district of great natural wealth, and stands on the summit of a limestone ridge, a fine elevation overlooking a magnificent sweep of the lower Aire country, which is blurred to some extent by the many evidences of the industry of man. Still the beauty of the vale is apparent and the wonderful panoramic vista reaching south to the Peaks of Derbyshire, seen on a fine day, is quite charming. If we compare the Domesday 'appraise' of Leeds with Kippax we find the latter nearly three times larger than the former.

There are various conjectures accounting for the name 'Kippax'. Dr. Whitaker and other  writers suppose the word to be mearly a corruption of the Keep-Esh, the first a large mound still existing near the church called a kip or keep and the latter a huge memorial ash which grew near - hence Keep-Ash. Another authority says 'Chipe' is from 'cheap' - a market held near a prominent Ash tree.

Coupled with Ledston it was the centre of a power to which most of the surrounding places were subordinate. One feature of the mercantile importance of Kypis remains in the fact that the de Lacies never subinfeuded Kippax (as they did Leeds) but always held it in their own grip and so had the power of transferring any of its market rights to Pontefract as the latter place grew into greater prominence. The vestiges of the past existing at Kippax fully demonstrate its antiquity.

If we now retrace our steps to that junction North of Ledston and move East instead we trace around the grounds of Ledston Hall. Half a mile along and the left turn is signposted for Ledsham. The hamlet of Led. (a.d.h.) is another name indicating the Celtic-British connection.

Ledsham 1850

Image produced from the www.old-maps.co.uk service with permission of Landmark Information Group Ltd. and Ordnance Survey

The village itself is now very small but sports an excellent church of Norman construction and a fine 16th century inn where good food and ales can be had to restore the weary traveller - but not on a Sunday - as local by-laws forbid the sale of alcohol on that day. This is due to the lady of the manor being abused on her way to church by two half-drunken locals one Sunday in the 1800's.

Exiting Ledsham opposite the inn's drive takes us up a steep bank through the woods towards the present-day Great North Road or A1. Up in the trees to the left of the bank is the site of the old vicarage and where the present lane turns sharp left you will note the line of the hedge where the lane once went in days gone by and crossed the main artery in the same place it now does after deviating somewhat. Ahead is another 90 degree corner in our lane and if we don't avail ourselves of it but continue into the driveway ahead we will find ourselves travelling through the woods and exiting onto the meadows beyond where the track leads up to a fine old building which served as a hunting lodge in centuries past. It was also the site of the signal beacon which could pass messages from site to site. To the South it spies direct to Pontefract Castle and to the North; Hazlewood Castle.

Back out onto the public road and along to the slip road of the A1 where we turn left and along towards that main artery. We stay to the left though and just take the next exit - a matter of a couple of hundred yards up the road. This short distance passes the public house on the left that has a great local history. The Boot and Shoe was an old haunt of highwaymen and other ne'er-do-wells over a very long period of time.

The new (2006) roundabout here joins on to the Selby Road - though heading back in the direction of Leeds. But we continue straight ahead, signposted for Micklefield. As the road approaches the first buildings it is passing the place where Castle Hill Wood used to be. This was over to the right behind the first old farm there and now has the A1 trunkroad running right through the centre of it. There is no record of a castle having actually been built but there is some very early altarwork to be found there which could be Roman or Romano-British.

Drive on into the village, another place that used to carry the 'in-Elmet' suffix, and across the stream. Up from the stream one enters the medieval village. This is an ancient place. It is listed in 963AD as 'Miclandfelda', in 1030AD as Miclafeld, with Mickelfeld in 1160, Michelfeld in 1214, Muclefeud in 1290, Mykelfeld in 1272, Mikkelfeld in 1428 and Micklefield in 1636. (My thanks to Jo Hebden for this)  Slow here to the church on the left.

See plan below.

Here you take the left turn alongside the church into - not surprisingly - Church Lane. I am informed that this lane changes its name after leaving the village to be called Gerry's Lane. Gerry was a donkey that was tied up and tried to escape but hanged himself. Hence the name. Exit the village along the lane and you are heading due West. <A>In front of you is the old Roman road again - Roman Ridge Road. To your right is a dell with a small clump of bushes. This is the site of an ancient well. It is called Helen's Well and has connections with Constantine's mother of that ilk.

Information about Micklefield from W Wheater 1882

Click HERE

You come up to Roman Ridge Road soon after. This is the line of the same old Roman road built by the XX Legion in or around 70AD.You join it at a place called Soldier's Hill. <B>. This name will not be found on any maps and no one knows it true origin. But across the road from the junction where Church Lane ends are the signs of a habitation of some size. No date, no knowledge on that. I am informed that local tradition says the name came from it being the site of a burial of Roman soldiers, but there is also the possibility that they were soldiers from the battle at Towton.. (My thanks to Jo Hebden of Micklefield for that too)

Looking to the right (northwards) the old Roman Ridge road now has a new sweep towards the newly opened M1 motorway's junction 47. Turn right onto Roman Ridge road but as the road sweeps left into this new section take the right turn which is on that bend <C>. This brings you back onto the old track of that ancient road..

Ahead this Roman road makes it's way on to Hook Moor <D>. Over the centuries this must have been one of the busiest sections of our Elmet area. When the new motorway was in it's early days of being constructed (1998) where it cuts through Hook Moor there was discovered a large pre-Roman village/town <E> - presumably of the local Brigantii Britons. History having a way of repeating itself, it is ironic to note that one large dwelling, marked clearly in the bedrock, had the Roman road cut right through the centre of it.

A case of 1998AD repeating 70AD.

At the top of the rise the road cuts right. Here one is driving right across the centre of that discovered dwelling site. A couple of hundred yards further and we can turn left onto the new Aberford-Micklefield road.

Just 50 yards more and the ridge of the old Roman roadway can be seen leading up past the cottage on your left. This whole section is steeped in history. Here, just south of the woods, also stretched the pre-Roman settlement; showing just what a size, and of what importance this British town must have been. Ahead the road curves right and goes down into the trees following the medieval roadline down the hill while to the left, in those trees, can still be clearly seen the raised banking of the straighter original Roman road line<F>.

Down to the crossroads. Above you, to the right, is the modern A1 road. The slope you see coming down from it towards the crossroad is a shadow of the Great North Road. You are now on the line of the medieval Great North Road which crossed the Aire at Ferrybridge and joined the Roman road just across the other side of the crossroads where the bend in the road bring you back onto the straight Roman line. <G>.

To the east of here, between the Roman road and Lotherton, there have been many finds over the years which indicate it was a popular area in the pre-Roman, Roman and immediately post-Roman period. From this Hook Moor also ran a road easterly past Lotherton Hall via Lead to Towton and Tadcaster. It was here at Hook Moor that the Yorkist army, heading from Pontefract and Castleford, left the Roman way to join in battle with the Lancastrian force at Towton in what was to become Britain's bloodiest battle.

Over the crossroads now and towards Aberford where you join back on to the straight line of the old Roman way. This is the old junction of the medieval road from Ferrybridge and the Roman road from Castleford. To the right of this - under what is now the modern M1 and A1 roads - was a swampy area, causing the medieval way to link in with the Roman road at this place. From this marsh ran a 'river' called Crow which meandered along the dip to the right of the Roman road and joined the Cock River at Aberford, a mile or so north.

On your left at  this 'junction' are gatehouses <H>. They mark one of the many entrances to Parlington Hall. You will note to their left, back through into the trees, is a footpath.  This is running along the line of the old Roman road it is still a right-of-way after nearly 2000 years. 

  One of the gatehouses to Parlington estate.  Roman Ridge Road.

Heading north along Roman Ridge Road for 300 yards to an old Ash tree on your right you can look through the gateway, over the line of Crow River to Hicklam Mill windmill. This is private property so please respect same.

The windmill has a nice history dating back to the 15th century and one particular little ditty about a local-born chap called Sammy Hick. Sam was born in Aberford in 1758 but moved to Micklefield as an adult. He became a blacksmith and Methodist minister there. To him is credited a local 'miracle'.

The story tells how he needed some corn ground for a 'love feast' he was organising but for three weeks there had been no wind to turn the mill sails. Sammy however loaded up his cart with corn and said a prayer and headed off to Hicklam Mill. On his arrival a breeze sprang up of enough strength to grind his corn. Just enough. For as others saw the sails moving and arrived with their loaded carts the wind dropped once more. 

Hicklam Mill.

A short drive further and the Alms Houses are on your left. This beautiful creation was an institution for the area's poor. Although they appear much older they are dating from 1844 and they were built by Maria Isabella and Elizabeth Gascoigne of Parlington in memory of their father Richard Oliver Gascoigne and their two brothers Thomas Oliver and Richard Oliver, all of whom died within a year of each other. We will come upon much more of this family as we go.

To the other side of the road is the memorial to the fallen of the First World War - and subsequent conflicts. The village of Aberford, as with most settlements hereabouts, is not short on history.

Alms Houses.                               Down the hill to Aberford.

Camden, in his Britannia says: ' We travelled along the bold ridge of the Roman military way to Aberford, a little village by the side of the way, famous for making pins, which are in great request among the ladies. Below this runs the River Coc, called in books 'Cocker', and in the descent to the river are to be seen the foundations of an old castle called 'Castle Carey."

As we have seen on nearby Hook Moor with it's pre-Roman town, this whole area has a civilised history that stretches back well over two thousand years. The origins of Aberford are just as early, and just as confused. Many an argument exists even over it's name. There seems little to the title that precedes the 11th century and spellings, as everywhere, have changed greatly. That the Roman road line crosses the River Cock here over a medieval bridge is not argued, and the ford that preceded it earns the village one part of it's name right enough. But the 'Aber' prefix has led to many different thoughts on the titles origin.

Here the Crow River we have paralleled for the last mile or so joins with the Cock - and such a confluence could well earn the prefix 'Aber'. But the spelling of the site as late as 200 years ago carried an extra 'b' - Abberford. Not that spelling is too wealthy a witness.

Somewhere around here was the earliest post-Roman Christian site to be built by the monks of Iona in the 5th century. Such an abbey might well have lent it's title to a later name - Abbey's Ford.  Then again the church in this village was named after the church in the Norman lord's home town - St Richarius or Ricarius of Abbeville. Perhaps there is some reflection in there that became part of the Yorkshire village's name. We may never know.

Moving down the hill into the village you pass a large building on the right which butts up to the roadside. This was once one of the Stage Coach Inns of the area.

The aformentioned 'Castle Carey' is no longer to be seen. It may have been the remains of the said Christian buildings or the Roman fort which guarded the ford. We may never know that either.

Through the narrow confines of the village proper, up to the top of the next hill and on your left is the village church with, as already noted, St. Ricarius is it's patron - the only church in England to hold that title.

"The church, with it's former traces of vast antiquity, is a fine building, enlarged, and in some degree repaired, in 1821, when the early chancel arch were barbarously used; it was rebuilt in 1861, except the tower and chancel, the former being restored in 1891. The Registers date from 1540. The patronage of the church passed from the Grammarys, who presented it to the knightly family of Walkyngham in 1230. The latter held it until 1331, when it was appropriated to the provost and scholars of the house of St. Mary at Oxford, collegiated in that university, and now Oriel College, to which it belongs.

The following tragic event in connection with this church is on record, June 26th 1347:- 'A general sentence against those who entered Aberford Church, and killed John de Byngham, clerk, whilst kneeling before the high altar in prayer.'"               Edmund Bogg  1904.

The local Church of England Primary School is based in what was once the mediaeval Tithe Barn. A tithe barn is where one tenth of the farming produce was collected and stored as a tax by the Church.

Just past it is the old inn The Swan. This is another old stagecoach inn and, indeed, it's history goes back right into the 15th century - or even earlier. Well worth a look around - and a meal or small sample of the local ale!

Aberford 1895

Ahead of us the old road crosses the bridge over the Cock and through the rest of the village. There is another inn on the right just over the bridge. This is called The Arabian Horse in memory of the day when the very first Arab steeds were quartered there on their way to new breeding grounds further north.

Aberford was granted a market on the 7th March 1251 to be held on Wednesdays.

Travelling  north, out of the village, the new motorway cuts the old Roman road these days. We will not venture thus. But it should be noted that along that way - now the other side of the said motorway, - is Black Horse Farm, once Black Horse Inn and said to have been the haunt of famous local highwayman Nevison - the chap who road from London to York in a single day (he changed horses at the Black Horse) - and who had his exploits stolen by the tellers of Dick Turpin's tale.

We though, as I said, are turning left before the bridge and taking the road alongside The Swan - so heading west. On the right here is the shell of the old water mill that saw service for some centuries but was closed down finally and it's wheel removed around the turn of the century after a tragic drowning accident which took the life of a young local child.

Up the short rise on the start of the Barwick road brings you to a building on the right which directly fronts onto the street. Above the door are the arms of the Gascoigne family, a pike's head. Directly opposite is a side road. Take it on up the hill and through into the park beyond. This is Parlington Park. Now this site has some history to it indeed.

The avenue within takes us on and up the slope. It was planted in 1783 by George Gascoigne and leads up to a victory arch. That was the entrance gate to the house grounds. It was built especially to welcome George III in 1784 on his visit to the house. Gascoigne had vast interests in the American colonies and supported, as many local lords did, the fight for American independence. No more than a business take-over in many ways. Along the front of the arch are the words "Freedom Triumphant in America!".

King George approached up the driveway, saw the arch, read the words and turned in anger - staying the night at nearby Haselwood Castle instead. Also the home of supporters of the American 'buy-out' - but less vocal ones.

"Freedom Triumphant in America." Gascoine's slight to George III on his visit in 1784.

Parlington's history goes back many centuries..........the first residents with whom we are acquainted assumed the name of the place and were/are known as De Parlington, occupying the mansion at the time Falkes de Brecante was at Harewood. They were succeeded by the Despensers.

In 1336 Philip, son of Philip, son of Hugh le Despenser, le pere, shows that Hugh was in possession of Parlington. Philip, the son, married Margaret, daughter and heiress of Ralph de Gowshill; holding the manor of Parlington, of the King, as of the crown by the fourth part of a knight's fee - (a tenure of lands held by knights on condition of military service). In 1404 a Philip Despenser held the manor by the seizin of half a knight's fee. These Despensers are the men who brought much trouble upon England in the reign of Edward II. In 1424 Roger Wentworth, Esqr., and Margaret his wife, heiress of Sir Philip Despenser and Elizabeth his late wife, held the manor of Parlington.

Before the end of the 17th century the Gascoignes were in possession and intermarried with the Vavasours, of Hazelwood. The Gascoigne arms - or, in a pale sable, a demi-luce nest couped or.

Driving further along the lane you are now leaving Aberford on the Barwick road. Over to the right runs the River Cock or Cock Beck. Beyond it you will see the great rise of land. This is Becca Bank. In one form or another it is part of a line that stretches all the way from Barwick-in-Elmet to Sherburn-in-Elmet - a great defensive ridge near ten miles long. All the land to the left of the road is part of Parlington Park.

Follow this road and you follow the Cock Beck on your right and the Parlington Estate on your left. You will pass a gatehouse about one mile from Aberford. Below and to your right the Cock runs and down there was a medieval village complete with fish pools. Absolutely nothing is known of this village.

The road runs down to the Cock and crosses it by a bridge which had a strange tale. In the 17th century even stage coach itinerary had to be amended to allow for drivers' refusal to cross this bridge at night. Beneath it was a spirit which haunted the site at night.

Local feeling on this was strong enough to have those amendments come to pass.

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Crossing Cock Beck and moving up the hill from the haunted bridge the road climbs into Barwick-in-Elmet - and what we have   here is a village of great local historical import. This was quite likely the capital of the old post-Roman British Celtic Kingdom of Elmet. There certainly has been habitation here for well over two thousand years. A couple of years ago the  work on the new M1 motorway connection uncovered evidence of habitation to the south of the village dating back to around 3000 BC. While this is not in the village itself it does give some indication of the area's past.

Barwick-in-Elmet is situated in a strong natural position protected by the Eastdale valley and the Cock Beck valley. Prior to the Roman invasion of our area it must have been a town of some size and importance with present evidence showing that it was originally dating anywhere from 200 BC to 600 BC and the earthworks that it stood on are massive, covering around 15 acres. These great defensive works are still very much visible today, especially from the public footpath to the rear of the Black Swan public house.  Finds here have been many and various, such as coins dating from the second century BC and from the first century AD. The village is also the pivot-pin of a giant defensive bank running all the way alongside the Cock Beck to the east past Aberford, and other works have been found to the west of the village. There is every likelihood that these massive but hastily raised seemingly first century AD defences were an attempt by the local Brigantii to fend off Roman advances. Needless to say, they didn't do the job. Then, as far as our available evidence goes, it all becomes very quiet.

The Roman period seemingly freezes Barwick-in-Elmet out altogether. It is possible that Roman organisation of the region simply bypassed Barwick and it withered. Certainly the local Roman roads come nowhere near the settlement.  But Helen, Constantine's mother, is reputedly of this town which, if true,  would contradict its total decline. If this is true then it is possibly the cradle of modern Christianity as we know it, that being a catholic belief fostered by her son the emperor. After the Roman administration had deserted the area in the fifth century it very  likely became the capital of the local, newly-formed British kingdom of Elmet (Elmete). This again would indicate the likelihood that, through the Roman period, something was still going on in Barwick-in-Elmet.

So much, and so little is known of this Kingdom of Elmet and nothing actually points to Barwick-in-Elmet being the capital of this newly formed land. But Victorian historians have painted it as such and who are we to argue? Elmet was one of the thirteen kingdoms of the North - Y Gogledd, a mainly Celtic Christian region - and, with varying success, it held out against the pagan English for two hundred years. The last king of Elmet was called Cerdic and was knocked from his throne by Edwin of Northumbria around 625 AD, it then becoming part of blossoming England. The Dark Ages are so-called not because they were a 'dark' time, in many ways they were quite the opposite, but simply because of the lack of information we have of them and certainly our Barwick-in-Elmet is no exception. All we can say is that, according to the records in the Domesday Book, there must have been a thriving agricultural settlement here just prior to 1086.

Domesday calls Barwick-in-Elmet "Beruuit" (Berwit) and had it in the possession of Earl Edwin of Mercia as a manor of around one thousand acres. Edwin joined the rebellion against William the First in 1071, but he was killed and the manor passed to the Norman lord Ilbert deLacy. Overlaying the iron-age workings is 'Auld How' now called Hall Tower Field, behind the Gascoigne Arms pub. Here is the typical motte and bailey type layout that one would expect to indicate this Norman presence - most likely instigated by de Lacy in order to make his mark on his new land. This castle was likely to have never gone beyond the wooden structure as other, more central situations, such as Pontefract, were also in his hands.From what we can tell the site was not likely in use for more than a century or so.It is still an imposing mound.Around seventy feet high with the outer edge of the ditch some two hundred and seventy yards across.

Nevertheless Barwick-in-Elmet it was a place of medieaval import, and in the 16th century it was twice the size of such places as Bingley, Ilkley and Otley. The Muster Roll for 1530 shows two esquires,   John Gascoigne of Barnbow and William Ellis, a constable, , sixteen archers and 28 billmen; a sizeable muster for any decent sized village. It was granted by King James to his wife Anne in 1603 passing to the Prince of Wales in 1619. He became Charles the First and, being always short of funds, he mortgaged it in 1627 - selling it two years later. Eventually it passed into the ownership of the Gascoigne family.

One thing this village has is tradition. It still boasts Britain's tallest maypole, all two and a half tons and eighty six feet of it.. Every three years this pole is taken down and repaired/repainted and then raised again in great celebration - totally by hand.

Over 200 people are involved on the ropes and ladders.  Yet again there is a local tradition for miles around that anyone hit by the pole during it's uprearing was cursed. It was said that they would be forever stupid. There used to be a saying: "He got knocked at Barwick and was silly ever after." when speaking about someone of weak intellect.

So here is:-

The 1999 Raising of The Barwick-in-Elmet Maypole

2 1/2 tons and 86 feet of it. Every 3 years it is taken down and refurbished and re-erected by hand with some celebration.

2002 should have seen it all done again - but new legal problems with insurance over health & safety have meant its cancellation. Perhaps yet another timeless tradition is now finished for ever.

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The village church is dedicated to All Hallows, an indication of its antiquity, more than likely marking its origins in the early Christianity that the Saxons gained from the local Celts so many centuries ago. It also still boasts some very early masonry from the Saxon period.  In its west face is a statue of a Vavasour - who gave the stone for the tower. The inscription reads "Orate pro Henrico Vavasour, Anno Domini 1414." The church was last renovated in 1856. Just what damage was done to the historical structure of the building by this Victorian make-over is anyone's guess. The Gascoignes and the Ellis families both have chapels here.

Edmund Bogg tells us that in the middle of the 1800's a local woman, Mary Morritt, was said to be gifted with second sight. She would watch the church at midnight on St. Mark's eve and professed to foretell the death of any person in the parish during the following year by the flitting of their figures passing into the church during her vigil. It was said that the death of her own husband was the last she foretold.

The Church - around 1860

Time to move on from Barwick-in-Elmet. Approaching the church from the Maypole, we take the road to the left of the church. This is a narrow thoroughfare so watch for traffic coming the other  way.

The road takes a sharp left alongside the church and heads north. Centuries ago the flatland to the right was all part of this great capital. Just ahead note the trees and the 'groove' in the land on both sides of the road - just before the right hand curve. That is the remains of the ditch around the later town. The road takes the right curve mentioned and advances down the side of the defensive banking to the stream far below. The old bridge over the beck was repaired two hundred years ago and revealed an even older structure beneath it. Over the bridge the roadway is cut deep into the land by centuries of wear and climbs slightly to approach Morgan's Cross. .

Morgan's Cross

The import of this place, like most things around here, is shrouded in mystery. From the map (above) it is obvious that an estate of some import stood at this site in the distant past, the term 'Manor Garth' certainly echoes the earthworks visible. Nothing is listed in post Saxon times at all which, in any way, indicates an earlier occupation. Local tales tell of a monastic/Christian importance, as does the title 'Morgan's Cross' and one possibility is that it was the site of, or allied to, the first of the 'new' Christian churches, with direction from Iona, that marked the re-birth of Celtic Christianity into this region during the 5th or 6th century.

Could this be the site of Thridwulf's Monastery? All that is known of this legendary establishment is that it was in the woods of Elmet.Two historians, Simeon of Durham and Roger de Hovedon tell us that Eanbald, Archbishop of York died in the monastery in 796 and Burton's Monasticon Eboracense tells us that of ten monasteries founded by Ionan Scottish monks, the last of them was founded at Barwick-in-Elmet in 730.

Bearing left at the Morgan's Cross T-junction shown on the map leads us north on to the York-Leeds road at the remains of another medieval village. Few houses and one inn are all that are now to be seen as the A64, following the line of the Leeds to York turnpike, crosses what must have been the village green in days gone by.

Now we turn right on to the main Leeds-to-York road, the A64, heading east. Just less than a mile along here and we are crossing over the A1. At this point a glance to the north will show the site of the battle of Bramham 1408. For information on that fight look in our page "Mediaeval Battles". The A64 follows the line of both the earlier Roman road and the mediaeval Great North Road and as you leave the roundabout heading for Tadcaster you will see on your left an old farm with the original trackway of that major thoroughfare running along the side of it.

Heading now along the new motorway-style York Road we see to the right the old, and then the new, entrances for Hazelwood Castle. This building is an old and interesting place to say the least. For a start, depending on what you read, the spelling can be Haselwood, Haslewood, Hazelwood or Hazlewood. Ah well, such are the problems with research.

Haselwood

This was the seat of the Vavasours for many centuries. This family has a history written all through that of the local area. Let us take a piece from Edmund Bogg's 'The Old Kingdom of Elmet' written in the last years of the 19th century; "The old name of Haselwood (Iselwood) establishes the 'hall' or 'hael' that always inplies local government. At least since the days of the Conquest this ancient and noble family have held the lands of Hazelwood, except for a short time in the reign of Henry III, when it was in pawn to Aaron a Jew at York, for the sum of £350. He made conveyance of his security to Queen Eleanor, in discharge of a debt due to her, from whom John le Vavasor received it again on payment of the money.

In its feudal aspect, Hazelwood presents the earliest features of a Seat of rank just below the dignity of a baronial castle. As a stone edifice capable of supporting the operations of war as then known, it had an early beginning. In 1286, King Edward I gave leave to castellete the mansion, which really means that, by that time, what Mauger had left of the old timber hall of his ancestors had become decrepit by wear and time and action being necessary, stone might be used in the erection of a strong and warlike edifice."

Of no small importance is the old chapel in the castle grounds which in itself has a very colourful history. This was the family chapel of the Vavasours who were staunch Roman Catholics even during the 16th century repressions. It is possibly unique anywhere in England in that through the years that Roman Catholic services were banned by Royal Decree this single chapel was allowed to continue with its old ways. The connection between the family and the Royal household at this time was a strong one, but this was never-the-less a very unusual state of affairs.

Justice Vavasour

There was a Justice, but late in the realme of England, called Master Vavasour, a very homely man and rude of condycions, and lovyd, never to spend mych, mych money. This Master Vavasour rode on a tyme in hys cyrceutyee (circuit) in the northe countrey, where he had agreed wyth the sheryf for a certain some of money for hys charges thorowe the shyre, so that at every inne and lodgynge this Master Vavasour payed for hys own costys. It fortuned so, that when he came to a certayn lodgyng he commanded one Turpyn, hys servant to see that he used good husbondry, and to save suche thynges as were left, and to carry it wyth hym to serve hym baytynge.

Thys Turpyn, doying his mayster's commandment, take the broken bred, broken mete, and all such tying that was left, and put it in his mayster's cloth sak. The wyf of the hous, perceywing that he toke all such fragmentys and vytale wyth hym that was left, and put it in the clothe sak, she brought up a podage that was left in the pot; and when Turpyn had turned hys bak a lytyl asyde, she pouryd the podage into the clothe sak whych ran upon hys robe of skarlet and other of hys garmentys, and rayed them very evyll, that they were much hurt therewyth.

Thys Turpyn, sodegnly turnying hym, and seeing it, revyled the wyf, therfore, and ran to hys mayster, and told hym what she had don; wherfore Master Vavasour incontinent, called the wyf, and said to her thus: "Thou drab, " quoth he, "what has thou don? Why hast thou pourd the podage in my clothe sak, and marrd my rayment and gere?"

"O, sir, " quoth the wyf, "I know wel ye are a judge of the realme, and I perceyve by your mind is to do ryght as to have that is your owen ; and you mynd is to have all thyng wyth you that ye have payd for, both broken mete and other thynges that is left, and so it is reson that ye have: and therfore, because your servant hath taken the broken mete and put it in your clothe sak, I have therin put the podage that be left, because ye have wel and truly payed for them. Yf I shoulde kepe any thynge from you that he hath payed for, per-adventure, ye wold trouble me in the law another tyme." Here ye may se, that he that playeth the niygards so mych, som tyme it torneth hym to hys owne losse.

Roman Roads

The road we are on follows the track of the Roman London to York road as it curves around Hazelwood until we reach the Tadcaster bypass and the A 659 turn-off to the left which heads for Tadcaster itself. We will take this turning and leave the 20th century road behind. 1900 years behind. Here we are approaching the Roman equivalent of Spaghetti Junction. Take a look at the map of the area with the Roman road lines overlaid upon it - the solid lines are the rough position of Roman roads with the dotted lines showing the line of the later mediaeval Great North Road. They are not meant to be perfect tracts - just indications of where the road lines ran.

Here, to the west of Tadcaster, we have a coming-together of five outward bound Roman equivalent of motorways. What it must have been like during those centuries of Roman administration only the wildest imagination can picture. Fascinating!

Heading from here to the south via Castleford (Lagentium) came the great artery from London (Londinium) and the continent, the roadway we have encountered many times so far. Sweeping in from the west was a road bringing traffic from the legions' retirement park at Adel and Ilkley (Olicana) beyond, travelling through present-day Thorner. A parallel road to the north of this one came in past ancient Bardsey and through Bramham.  From the north came Rudgate, the road from the Wall and those wild border kingdoms. To the north east went the main road through Tadcaster (Calcaria) and on to the area capital at York (Eboracum). What sites this small area must have seen during those turbulent years.For a quick tour of the roads mentioned take the first turning on the right after leaving the A64. It is signposted 'Stutton'. After around 100 yards the road does a 90 degree left turn - and is back on to the old London to Tadcaster Roman roadway. Follow this down the hill towards Tadcaster and when you reach the main road on the outskirts of Tadcaster take the left turn back towards Leeds. The Roman road originally continued across the present main road and down towards the river and the old Roman settlement. Heading back away from Tadcaster we are now on the Roman road to Bramham, which rises up towards a left curve. On this present-day curve is a right turn, This is the old line of our Roman road. If we take the 'turn' we come very quickly to a small crossroads. Here to our right goes Rudgate - heading for Hadrian's Wall and all points north. Swing left and left again and we are back on the A 659 and yet again heading along to old Tadcaster.

Before we take on Tadcaster there is one more Roman road that is of great local importance. Important not just to our understanding of the Roman period but also to later events - not least being our famous Battle of Towton in 1461. Looking at the map of major Roman road routes shows that the great carriageway from the south crossed the River Aire at Castleford. The later mediaeval route crossed at Ferrybridge and cut across to join the Roman road at Hook Moor, just south of Aberford. But was there a crossing at Ferrybridge in the Roman period? The Roman station at Castleford seems to have gonedownhill after the 1st century. Could it have been by-passed by a quicker route just to the east when long term drainage of the area had made it passable for a heavy trunk route? Late finds include a section of Roman road just south of Sherburn-in-Elmet which heads due north-south. Interesting for this could redraw the whole map of Roman and mediaeval transport through our region. A route on this line certainly existed in medieaval times - Lord Norfolk used it to reach Towton. It would also explain why this great battle was fought where it was and not further east on the other main north-south trunk route.For if the modern Sherburn to Tadcaster road, the A162, did not have a very similar pre-road then the other possible tracks that brought the Lancastrian army to the site were far from capable of handling more than a very small percent of those who actually took part. Doubtless more work must be done to clear this question up.

Just one last point worth remembering on our area's Roman roads. As with today, not all Roman roadways were the heavy motorway style works that are shown in history books. These were the main arteries but were fed by a maze of lesser tracks that brought goods and people from villas and villages to their easier long-distance routes. Defining Roman country lanes from earlier or later tracks is nigh on impossible.

Tadcaster

Today's entry into Tadcaster on the A659 swings to the right as it crosses the old Roman road and heads down towards Tadcaster's most famous landmark - the brewery. But we will swing left as we pass the Tadcaster sign and follow the old Roman road line. Down into the old town we come into a one-way system which links the Roman road with the parallel medieval track - now the main road through the town and over the bridge.  When this old town first became a settlement of any size is not really known. Like Castleford it started on it's present way as a Roman fort protecting the river crossing. Calcaria was centred slightly to the north of the present-day bridge in the vicinity of the church.But again like Castleford it seems to quickly fade from the historical records and we have, as is so often the case, the Venerable Bede to thank for a mention of the place.

The Roman crossing point would seem, from the lines of known Roman roadway on both sides of the river, to have been by the church, in fact between the church and the motte of the medieval castle or fortified manor house. But the present bridge is around a hundred yards down stream of that point. A mirror image of what has happened at Castleford.

Tadcaster was granted a market on Tuesdays in 1271.

Bede, who died in 734, tells us that St. Heiv established a monastery at Hartlepool around 649AD and then retired to Calcaria where she founded another monastery. He calls the place Kaelcacaestir. The monastery she founded was likely at Healaugh to the east of the river. Then it all goes quiet. We hear virtually nothing of the town from then until the Domesday Book of 1086. There is one possible reference to Tadcaster in the Anglo-Saxon Chronicles with regard to King Harold. On his way to face the army of Tostig and Harald Hardrada in 1066 he is said to have lodged at "Tatha" the night before reaching York. Now this could have been Tadcaster or it may well have been Tateshalle, the old name for Pontefract.

1086AD and that wonderful mine of information; the Domesday Book sees a complete renaming of the town. Now it is Tatecastre. And it is easy enough to see where present-day 'Tadcaster' comes from. But why Kaelcacaestir vanished and just where the name 'Tatecastre' came from is less obvious. The record is shown thus: "Two Manors. In Tatecastre, Dunstan and Turchil had eight carucates of land for geld, where four ploughs may be. Now, William de Parci has three ploughs and 19 villanes and 11 bordars having four ploughs, and two mills of ten shillings (annual value). Sixteen acres of meadow are there. The whole manors, five quaranteens in length, and five in breadth. In King Edward's time they were worth forty shillings; now one hundred shillings."

It is notable that no church is listed. To give you a slightly better perspective, eight carucates is close to 1440 acres in our eyes. With two mills listed it was abviously quite a bustling settlement.

The bridge from the south with the church tower obvious in the background. Photo circa 1900.

And in 2001 - on the western bank, looking from the north.

Tadcaster Bridge. There has been a crossing over the river Wharfe at Tadcaster since Roman times. Originally a ford, the first bridge was probably a wooden structure and the first stone bridge was thought to have been built around 1200 with various reconstructions throughout the centuries. At 11am, Tuesday 7th December 1642, the Battle of Tadcaster took place on and around the old Tadcaster bridge between Sir Thomas Fairfax (Parliamentarian) and the Earl of Newcastle (Royalist). The present bridge was constructed around 1700 and widened in 1780 and again in the 19th century.

The old castle mound photographed over 100 years ago.

Just when the castle, or fortified manor house, was last in use is unknown but King John visited the town on the 14th and 15th of April 1209 so there must have been some building capable of housing his retinue. In 1270 a charter was granted by Henry III for a market and fair. Things were looking good for the town until a small problem called Bannockburn arose in 1314. Edward II's hapless mess at that battle left the north wide open to Scottish raids. Tadcaster was hard hit. The church was sacked and nearly destroyed and the whole town suffered so much it took a generation to even start to return to its former self. In 1290 the church was valued at £43.6s.8d and revalued in 1318 at just £28.6s. 8d.

St. Mary's Church.
The early wooden structure was rebuilt in stone around 1150. As we have said the church was burnt down by the Scots in 1318 when they ravaged the north of England. It was rebuilt about between 1380 and 1480. Subject, as it was, to frequent flooding it had to be improved so it was taken down stone by stone and rebuilt with the inner floor raised by 5 feet between 1875 and 1877 ; only the tower was left as it was. The money to pay for this work, £8426.4s.6½d, was raised by public subscription. In 1897 a new north aisle was built.

The church in 2001

The Arc - a lovely 15th century building

Tadcaster saw great slaughter in the aftermath of the Battle of Towton in 1461. There was a lesser killing field here during the English Civil War too. But still it survived - still it grew.....

Toulston Lodge - Tadcaster

Then we get on to the three business's that have made Tadcaster famous in latter days - BEER! BEER! BEER!

Sam Smith's
Samuel Smith's is a small, independent brewery, brewing at the oldest brewery in Yorkshire. The original well at the Old Brewery, sunk in 1758, is still in use. The brewing water for the ales and stouts is drawn from 85 feet underground.
The malt mixes with hard well water in copper mash-tuns. Fuggles and Goldings, the old fashioned varieties of hops that over the centuries have given the best British ales distinctive flavour are added later and boiled in 'coppers'.
Samuel Smith still ferments ale and stout in traditional Yorkshire stone 'squares' - roofed fermenting vessels made of solid blocks of slate. The yeast is of a strain that has been used at the Old Brewery continuously since the beginning of the last century, one of the oldest unchanged strains in the country, still as healthy and as active as ever frothing up into rich creamy heads.
The brewery cooper makes and repairs all the wooden casks used for the brewery's naturally conditioned 'Old Brewery Bitter'. Barrels, kilderkins and firkins are the traditional names used for the different sizes of casks, repaired with tools that have their names like 'patsy', 'chive' and 'adze'.
Grey shire horses weighing more than a ton each are kept in the stables at the Old Brewery making occasional deliveries of beer to a couple of pubs in the town.
Samuel Smith's Old Brewery is by far the smallest of the three breweries in Tadcaster.

Tower Brewery - Bass

The older buildings comprising of the Tower Brewery (famed for their Prize Medal bottled beer) were erected when Tadcaster Tower Brewery was founded in 1882. The Company was formed by a small group of 'honourable's', i.e. younger sons of baronets - hence the brewery became known locally as Snobs Brewery. The building site was bought from the (then) North Eastern Railway Company who had purchased the land from the local squire, Sir Edward Brooksbank, when Tadcaster was planned to be linked with the main network of railways in the North East. Sadly this project never came to fruition.

In 1946 Hammonds Bradford Brewery Co purchased the Tadcaster Tower Brewery Company. With more than 700 pubs the company was one of the largest brewing concerns in the country and it was decided to rename the company to Hammonds United Breweries Limited. In the late 1950's it was clear that the Tower Brewery was better placed for the expansion necessary to cope with increased demand, and it was decided to go ahead with the construction of a new bottling store. It was completed with 1959 together with a new administration block - this was the first substantial improvement since the brewery was built.

The 1960's saw the formation of Northern Breweries of Great Britain Limited by the merger of the Sheffield brewery Hope & Anchor (famed for its Jubilee Stout), H.U.B. and John Jeffrey & Co. Ltd, a much smaller company which operated the Heriot Brewery in Edinburgh. In 1962 United Breweries merged with Charrington's of London to form Charrington United Breweries making the company one of the largest brewing empires in Great Britain. The famous Toby Jug was taken as its emblem. 1967 the name changed above the door of Tadcaster Tower Brewery yet again when Charrington's merged with Bass, Mitchells and Butler, of the Midlands to form Bass Charrington.

John Smith's
Smith's company bears the name of a remarkable man. Born the son of a tanner, John Smith built a brewing business based on his entrepreneurial skills and personal commitment to quality. His Tadcaster brewery, acquired in 1847, responded to the new market opportunities generated by rapid population growth in northern towns during the Industrial Revolution.
The excellence of his ales paved the way for what has become Britain's most popular ale brand. The success story continues: a recent major expansion programme at Tadcaster has doubled capacity to keep in pace with growing demand.

So now, in fits and starts, we have moved up the old Roman road from Castleford to Tadcaster, 2000 years of feet, hooves and wheels. Time to head back south again through the old Kingdom of Elmet along a route that may well be just as ancient as the first 2000 year old stage.

What does  local historian   Harry Speight have to say about Tadcaster a century ago?

All comparative evidence on the early settlement of our country points clearly to the importance of Tadcaster
in prehistoric ages. Century after century, dynasty after dynasty, have come and gone and left us with but the husk of all their achievements, out of which— the scattered record, the lost relic and forgotten tomb—we must try and construe local life in the distant past. When the old Brigantian cities of York and Aldborough were in their prime—at a period dating back at least two thousand years - Tadcaster, too, like Ilkley in the Upper Dale I have elsewhere described, was a place of great esteem; both Ilkley and Tadcaster being, no doubt, important vanguards in the approaches to those cities. Between each of these places lay well-beaten trackways over the natural earth, for the Britons did not learn the art of paving until the Romans came, and these old British foot-roads were, when laid between important stations, utilized by the Roman conquerors as the lines of their wonderfully - constructed highways throughout the realm. Unlike the Saxons, the Romans too, conquered the British strong holds, appropriated the sites and raised their camps upon the older settlements.
The Saxons and Angles rarely appropriated British or Roman sites, but preferred to stake.out tons or enclosures of their own, yet in Yorkshire there are several proven instances, as at Aldborough and Ilkley, where Saxon churches have been raised within the areas of Roman camps. At Tadcaster, I opine, the original church was erected outside the area of the camp, probably for the reason that the site had been a pre-existing burial-ground, and so was chosen for its sacred associations, as we know was the case for the same reason in other places. Else there could have’ been no motive for erecting the church in such a low-lying position beside the river (unless, as I have explained elsewhere, the river was venerated), rendering the building liable to inundations, when higher and drier sites could have been got close at hand.  The Roman town at Tadcaster no doubt extended, as at Ilkley and other places, beyond the walls of the camp.
It can, therefore, as I have said, hardly be doubted that Tadcaster was a British outpost to York, connected with that city by an unpaved road, and as such an outpost it continued during the Roman occupa tion. It has been conjectured that it was the Calatum of Ptolemy, though this is not confirmed by Nennius, no very reliable authority, however, who flourished in late Saxon times. Nennius mentions 33 British cities, on the authority of “Mark, the anchorite,” a British Bishop. Amongst those named in the north are Caer Ebrauc (York), Caer Dazue (Doncaster), Cacr Caratauc (Catterick), and Cue Luilid (Carlisle), but singularly there is no mention or suggestion of Aldborough, in Yorkshire, which was beyond all question one of the most important Brigantian strongholds. Some, indeed, hold it to have been the capital settlement of the Brigantes, taking even precedence of York.
Moreover, there is other evidence that Tadcaster was a British city. I concur with Mr. Boyle in believing that its Roman name of Calcaria was but a Latinised form of a pre-existing Celtic name; exactly as we know was the case with the majority of the Roman towns mentioned in the Antonine Itinerary. In the first portion of the word there is a marked suggestion of the Celtic catch, lime, indicative of the character of the ground upon which the station is built. Kelso, in Scotland, anciently Calkou, has a precisely similar meaning, and so has Cealchythe, in Kent, where the great council of

Bishops was held in 816 and where the interesting enactment took place that all new churches should have inscribed on the wall or upon a tablet or else on the altar, the name of the holy person to whom the church was dedicated. Again a trace of the Celt may possibly be referred to the circumstance that about 1886 a human skeleton was discovered in the neighbourhood of the Applegarth, though the period to which it belonged cannot be stated with
certainty. It was unearthed in the vicinage of the Civil War entrenchments, but as a stone adze or axe-head was found in the skull, the interment may possibly belong to the Stone Age. The discovery was made in the course of excavations at the extension of Braime’s (Victoria) brewery. Dr. Tordoff, who examined the remains, informs me that the skeleton was that of an adult male person, but as the wisdom teeth were not cut, the unfortunate victim of the blow would not be more than 20 years of age. The weapon is formed of a hard bluish stone.
From the era of Antoninus (A.D. 138—161)- to the time of the Venerable Bede, who died in 734, we have no mention of Tadcaster; then we learn from this famous northern historian that the pious lady St. Heiv, after she had established a monastery at Hartlepool, Ca. 649, retired to the city of Calcaria, which he states is called by the English (Angle) people Kaelcacaestir (quae a  gente Anglorum Kalcacaestir),  where she founded another monastery (mansio). (See HEALAUGH.) This is the only allusion to Tadcaster in Saxon times, but it plainly shews that the place was known by its Roman-British name in the 7 century; Bede merely adding the A.-S. ceaster or ccaster, meaning a city or site, “applied from tile first to any place that bore signs of Roman building or fortification.” Camden, who appears to have derived some portion of his local information from a Mr. Robert Marshall, of Bickerton, also observes that an eminence near the town is called Kelcbar, which retained in his time (1551— 1623) something of the old name of Calcaria. This Kelcbar is at Smaws, on the road to Newton, where is a very old quarry of limestone. Bishop Gibson, the 18th century editor of Camden’s Britannia, refers to Newton Kyme as a probable site of the Roman Calcaria, in which, however, he is not supported by modern authorities. At Newton, he tells us, many Roman coins have been ploughed up, particularly of Constantius, Helena, and Constantine; also an urn or box of alabaster with only ashes in it ; melted lead and rings one of which had a key of the same piece joined with it. The road to York, he says, is firmer ground than that from Tadcaster, which would hardly be passable were it not for the causey made over the common between Tadcaster and Bilbrough, and he further adds that Newton was so called by the Saxons because they erected new buildings upon the foundations of the Roman town. But this I hold to be highly improbable for the reasons already stated; the Anglian settlers having chosen this site and named it Newton (new town) in contradistinction to the old town of Calcaria, about a mile lower down the river. Some have even suggested that the old caster or station at Tadcaster was called “T’aud caster,” which gave Calcaria its later name; the dialectal form of the A.-S. cold (old) being aud. This rendering, however, is one which might be shortest described as a good joke but a bad guess!
Our next probable reference to Tadcaster is in 1066, when, according to one of the latest contributors to the Saxon Chronicle, King Harold advanced towards York with his army to oppose the invasion of Tostig and Harald Hardrada. On Sunday, the 2 September, he is stated to have reached “Tatha,” and the next day marched to York, and afterwards to Stamford Bridge, eight miles further east, where a great battle was fought. This “Tatha” is presumed to be either Tadcaster or Pontefract, but as the former is only 9 miles from York and as Pontefract is 22 miles from York, it certainly seems more likely to be Tadcaster than the ha’, hall or abode of one Tata at Pontefract, the Tateshalle of Domesday. - But this Tatha, if it be Tadcaster, is a great stumbling block in the derivation of the Domesday name of Tatecastre (Tadcaster). If Tadcaster were actually known by the name of Tatha so soon before the Conquest (which I very much doubt), then the prefix Tate cannot be a personal name, although I hold this Tatha as the place Tadcaster not proven. I contend that in the prefix Tate is the name of the pre-Conquest owner of the caster or camp at Tadcaster, equally with the belief that Ebchester was Ebba’s chester, and Godmanchester Godmurid’s chester, or that Tatham in Amounderness was the obvious home or abode of one Tata or Tate. Thus we find in 1083-6 the old names of Calcaria and Kaelcacaster as completely changed as were those of Isurium to Aldburgh and Streaneschalch to Whitby in the Domesday survey.

It is now almost needless to contend for Tadcaster as the Roman Calcaria, in opposition to the opinion formerly advanced in favour of Newton Kyme. There is no Roman road from Newton Kyme to York. Newton Kyme lay on Watling Street, one of the four royal highways called in the Norman laws Quatuor Chirnini, which traversed the country from south to north, and which from Doncaster lay through Aberford across the Wharfe at Newton Kyme direct north to Aldborough (Isurium). Tadcaster was on Ermyn Street, which crossed Watling Street in the neighbourhood of Stutton, near to Headley Bar; the latter highway going due north by the road known here still as Rudgate to St. Helen’s ford. On the other side of the river the name of Rudgate is also retained for the old road by Wharton Lodge, east of Bickerton, which runs northwards through Chapel Hill to Aldborough. Tadcaster consequently lay more than a mile east of Watling Street, and this is confirmed by Leland, the State topographer (cii. 1540), who remarks “Tadcaster standeth a mile from Watling Street, that tendeth more toward Cairivel (Carlisle) and crosseth over Wherf at a place called St. Helensford, a mile and a half above Tadcaster, and on the other ripe (bank) is St. Helen’s Chapel.” Speaking of the situation of Tadcaster he observes “it standeth on the hither ripe of Wharf river and is a good thoroughfare. The bridge over Wharfe bath eight fair arches of stone. Some say that it was last made of part of the ruins of the old castle of Tadcaster. A mighty great hill, dykes, and garth of this castle on Wharfe be yet seen a little above the bridge. It seemeth by the plot that it was a right stately thing.”
“The mighty great hill” mentioned by Henry VIII.’s observant antiquary, has been unfortunately since his time so much destroyed, altered, and encroached upon by the growth of the town that it is at this day a matter of impossibility to define the precise extent and appearance of the old Roman camp. It seems to have been utilized by the Danes and converted into moated mounds, though originally it may have extended about 100 yards north and south from the river, a short distance above the bridge, but it is difficult to define its limits east and west, as it has been destroyed on the east side, but there is little doubt that the old Grammar School stands on its eastern verge, and that the school-playground has been excavated out of it. Judging from actual remains the camp or mounds do not appear to have extended more than 140 to 160 yards to the eastwards and not more than 100 yards towards the south: of similar extent, in fact, to the camp at Ilkley, and in all probability from its small size built at the same time, on the first Roman invasion of Yorkshire by Agricola in A.D. 79.
Whether the Tadcaster camp was re-constructed in stone in the time of the Emperor Severus, as was the case at Ilkley and other stations in Yorkshire, cannot now be determined. Every vestige of foundation or of stone walling has disappeared, and the only evidence of the existence of an ancient wall I have heard of is the discovery some forty years ago of a strong and rudely-constructed wall, four feet thick, bordering the river on the east side of the churchyard. But this wall I judge was merely a staith erected in later times to resist encroachments of the river upon the burial-ground. The present so-called “Castle Hill” extends from the north side of the church parallel with the river, and a good section of it is exposed behind the Castle Terrace. It is a thrown-up bank or earth-work, 20 to 30 feet high, composed of soil mixed with angular fragments of local stone, and there are no indications of its having been raised on an old glacial-mound as is the case in some places. It is wholly artificial. I learn that many Roman coins, urns, pottery, and other relics of early occupation have been found upon or near the site from time to time, but these have been dispersed. This is much to be deplored, as a single local collection possesses not only an antiquarian interest, but has historic value. But Tadcaster is not the only place that has failed to realize the importance of this, though doubtless here as elsewhere were local museums formed, many private collectors would be willing to part with their treasures to the care of places where they were found. About a century ago a very perfect bronze celt was found near the town, and is now, I understand, in the British Museum.

It possessed the peculiarity of having a ring of the same metal inserted through the handle of the celt, to which was also attached a small bead of jet. The appended engraving shews the combined objects exactly as found. It is hardly possible that the celt could have been worn as a charm; indeed Mr. Geo. Du Noyer
thinks the bronze ring which was looped to the ear of the celt, might have assisted in fastening it, while the second ring might be appliedto either of two purposes, (i) as a catch for a string-guard to be fastened to the wrist, or (2) to render the tying of the larger ring to the handle more easy and direct. Single coins, but no hoards, I understand, have been turned up at different times, particularly in the churchyard while digging graves. One of these, in possession of the vicar, I have seen. Though much defaced I read it as follows
Obv. IMP. c. M. CL [ Marcus Claudius] TACITVS P. [ F. [
AVG. (Head of Emperor).
Rev. TEMPORVM FELICITAS. (Standing figure holding an ensign in right
hand and a cornucopia in the left).
This is an interesting coin of the senator Tacitus, who traced his descent from the great historian of the same name. The senate elected him Emperor in 276, at the age of 75, but he reigned only 6 months and 20 days. His short reign, however, was one of great activity, and though little historic value .can be adjudged to the
record of a single coin, it proves however that Tadcaster was occupied after the reign of this Emperor, and doubtless continued a stronghold of the Romans until the evacuation ca. A.D. 418.
Furthermore a Roman wine or water-jug was found in Jan.,. 1893, by Mr. Wm. Dyson, of the Britannia inn, Tadcaster, while dredging for sand and gravel close to an island about 40 yards below Tadcaster Bridge. Its greatest circumference is 38 inches, and height 18 inches. The jar is enamelled a dark green colour, the enamel being almost perfect, and there are looped handles on two sides. This relic is now in possession of Dr. H. A. Allbutt, Leeds. In March, 1895, some men in the employ of Mr. C. Hodgson, were also getting sand from the river when they unearthed a similar kind of jar, but this was made of rough earthenware, unglazed, and is 14 inches high, and 37 inches round its widest part. Mr. Hodgson also possesses a smaller enamelled jar obtained from the same spot in 1897.
I may also add while discussing the subject of antiquities, that I have seen an ancient anchor, also dredged out of the Wharfe at Tadcaster. It is made of wrought-iron, much decayed; the bow of the anchor between its two extremities measuring 35 inches, and the shaft of oak being 57 inches long. It is evidently mediaeval.
It is very probable, for the reasons stated, that the site of the parish churchyard was a burial-ground of the Romans, and of their successors the Saxons and Danes, although many interments in Roman times were made beside the highway leading between Tadcaster and York. So plentiful have been such discoveries on this road that it has been called the “Street of Tombs.” In 1897 a stone- coffin was dug up in the grounds attached to the residence of Mr. E. P. Brett, on this road. It is fashioned out of a single block, and has a roof-shaped lid, and is now in the Museum at York. A complete skeleton was found in it. Another tomb, no doubt containing coeval remains, lies undisturbed beneath one of the houses in the Mount, close beside the last A tomb, 7- feet 6 inches long, composed of 18 ridged tiles, was also discovered in 1833 on the same road near Dringhouses. The tiles bore the impress of the Sixth Legion.
The direction of this road, I may further point out, affords proof of the position of the Roman Calcaria at Tadcaster and not at Newton Kyme. The road came down Garnett Lane, Station Road, and along the north side of the Parish Church, across the Wharfe, where I am told remains of an old pavement have been observed, and up Rosemary Lane on to the York Road, which it leaves at Tadcaster Bar. Thence it continues in a straight line by the Old Street, passing Street Houses, where it leaves the highway again, and continues through fields to the north of Copmanthorpe, joining the highway again at the inn known as the old Ginger Beer House, and so into York by Miciclegate Bar, and crossing the Ouse by a bridge near the present Guild Hall enters Westgate, York. All about Stutton and Hazeiwood are very ancient quarries, whence no doubt much of the material was obtained for building Roman York.

I shall refrain from any lengthy reflections on the Saxon and Danish occupation of the neighbourhood of Tadcaster, as at best the evidence is obscure. Coins of Olaf, who reigned in Northumbria between the years 940 and 951, have been found bearing the name  “T0D ;“ the place where they were coined. One such bears the legend: ANLAF REX T0D; the moneyers being RADULF and WADTER.
The late Rev. Daniel Haigh thought that owing to the frequent interchange of the letters A and o on these coins (cf. Anlaf, Onlaf, Onlof) there could be little difficulty in recognizing in the name TOD the old city of Tadcaster. In this case the city having a mint proves it to have been a royal residence, for the moneyers invariably
accompanied the King from place to place. A relic of Olaf or Anlaf, I may observe, was discovered some years ago in the Leeds Parish Church. It is part of a Runic cross bearing his name, and it would appear that much of the time of this Danish monarch had been passed between York and Tadcaster and Leeds. Mr. Geo. T. Clark, the well-known writer on military architecture in England, observes that at Tadcaster there are a group of earth works, which he refers to the same Danish period. I will quote at once what he says:
These earthworks are of considerable size and extent, and occupy a portionof rather low land on the right bank of the Wharfe, a little above the town and close to the parish church. The group contains three isolated conical mounds, about 30 to 40 feet high, and about o feet in diameter on the flat top. The most western of the three is very distinctly a moated mound, but it has been much mutilated to supply materials for banking out the river. From the other mounds it is divided by a very deep and broad ditch, which evidently was filled from the river, and is still (1880), when the river is full, flooded by water which rises through the gravely bottom.
The other two mounds are also separated by a very formidable ditch. Of these the one nearest to the river is the most considerable, and probably bore the shell keep of the castle, of which, however, no traces are now visible. In the skirts of the third mound, that nearest to the church, are two vaults, entered through a sort of pigstye or shed. Upon a very superficial view they did not appear to be very old, but they may have been the receptacles beneath a garderobe.” Finally Mr. Clarke concludes that the earthworks are not British, and notwithstanding the Roman history and name of Tadcaster, can scarcely be attributed to that people. They are more likely, he says, to be of northern origin and not improbably the work of Danish settlers, “of whom Anlaf or Olaf seems to have had a residence here towards the middle of the 10th century.”

The term “castle hill” applied to pre-historic earthworks, where no castle of masonry has ever stood, is not uncommon in this county and elsewhere. But in the case of the Tadcaster earthworks there are just grounds for assuming the existence, at some time, of a stone- built castle on these thrown-up mounds. A tradition of this kind seems always to have prevailed in the neighbourhood, and Leland, whom I have quoted a page or two back, refers to it in the 16th century. It is very probable that the castle was of pre-Norman date, but no documentary proof of a castle after the Conquest, nor any evidence of a license to crenellate is forthcoming, though it is not unlikely the Percies resided here before their local strongholds were built at Spofforth and Bolton Percy. William de Percy’s famous grant to the monks of Sallay, before 1168, was made in magno lacito apud Tadecastre, while King John, with his court, was at Tadcaster in 1209. Also in a grant by Edward II. of certain lands to the Priory of Knaresbro’, in the year 1318, the document is signed by the King at Tadcaster (Teste rege apud Tadcastre), which certainly supports the idea of a strong house or castle here at that time. Certain plants, now wild, also favour the idea that there were cultivated gardens about the old Castle Hill. The green hellebore, particularly, is said to be very partial to old ruins, and used at one time to grow very plentifully on this spot
It would also appear that Tadcaster was a royal residence in Danish times from the extent and quality of its manors on the Norman settlement. It is note worthy that it escaped the fury of the Conqueror’s vengeance, while the country around York and the county generally was sadly harried. The castle of King Olaf, if we are to believe that it stood here, was, doubtless, also the resting place of the English King Harold on his famous and victorious march to Stamford Bridge in 1066. His conquest, however, was of short duration, inasmuch as only three weeks later the fate of England was decided by his fall at Hastings, in October, 1066. Three years afterwards the army of the Conqueror, led by the monarch himself, advanced northwards, and having taken possession of the moated mound at Castleford and ordered the building of the castle at Pontefract, he went on to Tadcaster. If the castle or any part of it existed then, he probably directed its renewal here too. Thence he marched in the full vigour of conquest, to the capital city of York, where the native garrison at once laid down its arms, and he entered the city unopposed. Here also he ordered the castle to be rebuilt, probably as at Tadcaster, upon a Roman or Danish foundation. This was in 1069. Then followed that terrible devastation of our county, to which the enquiry instituted some fifteen years later bears such bitter testimony.

From the time of Olaf (ca. 950) to the reign of Edward the Confessor (1041—66) Tadcaster had been slowly progressing, but in the twenty years following the death of the Confessor, the town had advanced in importance by “leaps and bounds.” From this it would appear as if it had been intended to maintain the town as the prime stronghold of the new Norman lords, ere the licence was given to them to fortify their neighbouring manors at Spofforth and Bolton Percy. The Domesday record is this
Two MANORS. In Tatecastre, Dunstan and Turchil had eight carucates of land for geld, where four ploughs may be. Now, William de Perci has three ploughs and 19 villanes and i bordars having four ploughs. and two mills of ten shillings (annual value), and one fishery of five shillings (annual value). Sixteen acres of meadow are there. The whole manors, five quaranteens in length and five in breadth. In King Edward’s time they were worth forty shillings now one hundred shillings.
According to modern calculations these manors were cultivated on the three-field system, and the eight carucates were equivalent to 1440 statute acres, one-third of which lay annually fallow, and the other two-thirds, or 960 acres, paid tax.) The land, it should be noted, had more than doubled in value within a period of about twenty years, a period of great devastation and depreciation to the bulk of the country. Singularly, no church is mentioned, although in a plate so prosperous and populous, having two mills, we may be sure the worship of God would not be neglected. We may therefore take it that services were then held, as they often were in early times, in the open air, and that only a beautifully-wrought preaching- cross stood here until the new lord found time to arrange for the erection of a proper building after the completion of the survey in
1083—6. Had not Tadcaster been returned in the King’s great inquest as of such high value, I should have claimed a pre-Conquest church for the town, as the laws of Canute and his successors expressly support the view that in those reigns there were many churches which, owing to the destruction and loss of revenue caused by the Conquest, are not mentioned in the survey. But Tadcaster, like Percy’s manor of Spofforth, suffered no such loss.
In the Recapitulation the above 8 carucates are said to be still held by William de Percy. But there seems to have been another manor over the water, on the east side of the bridge, and this was probably the site in Domesday, where Ligulf had four carucates of land worked in the same manner by two ploughs. William de Percy had these too, besides four acres of meadow here
and half a fishery. In 1065-6 this manor had been worth 20 shillings., and
in 1083—6 its value remained the same.
There seems to have been some uncertainty, as I have before pointed out, with respect to the right of William de Percy to a number of his Yorkshire manors, and the men of Barkston came forward and affirmed that William Malet, the Sheriff, had “all Stauton (Stutton), three manors, three carucates of land, and one mill, and in Tatecastre (Tadcaster) two manors, two carucates, and two hovates, and one portion of the land of Turchil.” But as events proved, all three manors on both sides of the Wharfe fell into the hands of Percy, and Tadcaster became the most valuable of all his possessions. This potent companion-in-arms of the Conqueror received more than ioo manors in different parts of Yorkshire, besides many others in Lincolnshire. His brother Serb was Prior of Whitby, and William gave to him “and the monks,” the town of Whitby and the port there, &c., wherewith to re-build and endow the monastery in that town. William accompanied the famous expedition to the Holy Land in 1096, but died at Mountjoy, near Jerusalem, where he was buried, yet the heart of the great warrior, say the old chroniclers, was brought back to Whitby. His eldest son, Alan the Great, married Emma, daughter of Gilbert de Gant, and from whom in the female line, the present Duke of Northumber land derives his descent.
Alan de Percy died in 1120 and was buried at Whitby Abbey. His eldest son and heir, William de Percy, married a daughter of Everard de Ros, and died in 1133, leaving an only recorded son William, who was the founder in 1147 of Sallay Abbey (Selby), and died in 1168. The pedigree in Whitaker’s Cra omits William, the father, and names only one son of Alan, whereas Alan had at least eight sons, as is shewn on the annexed pedigree. William left two daughters, co-heiresses, the elder of whom, Maud, married William, Earl of Warwick, and gave Tadcaster Church to Sallay Abbey; but in a Calendar of Papal Letters, dated 1218, recently transcribed from registers in the Vatican, it is stated that the right of patronage had been granted to the monks by Matilda, Countess of Warwick, and William de Percy, a document I shall refer to again in dealing with the church.

Whether the Percies still maintained the old castle at Tadcaster is problematical, but on April 14-15th, 1209, the town was visited by King John, and there must have been a house of importance to accommodate the monarch and his retinue. At this time the Norman Barons were actually, if not in name, the greatest power in the land, and they resented the grinding imposts laid upon them by the despotic King. John’s visit to Tadcaster would be countenanced but not welcomed, and there is small doubt he would be received with mock joy. The Barons were shortly afterwards in open rebellion, and the King was compelled to acknowledge their power and many common grievances, by publicly signing Magna Charta (1215), which restored and confirmed the liberties of his subjects in all cities, towns, and ports in the kingdom. Suitors were no longer, by this grand concession, compelled to follow the King in his progresses; assizes were to be taken in authorised places, and justice by fair trial, brought home to every man’s door. In 1206 the King’s Court was at Doncaster and William de Percy was one of the six justices who sat there. In 1208 the Court was held again at Doncaster and also at York, and among the eight justices present was Robert de Percy. This Robert was not lord of Tadcaster, as according to the Red Book of the Exchequer giving Knight’s Fees in 12th and 13th John (1210-11),  William de Percy is declared to be then seized of 15 Knight’s Fees (a very large and remarkable holding) of the Honour of Tadcaster.
There was a Robert de Percy living at Bolton Percy in 1276, and he it was who granted to Archbishop John Rornanus free passage for the transport of stone from the quarries at Tadcaster to York. The charter is printed in the Monasticon (iii., 163), and though undated, must have been written before 1290-I, when Archbishop Romanu began the building of the noble nave of York Minster. But long before this date the old quarry in Thevedale had been granted to the Chapter by William de Percy for material to erect the Minster, that is the south transept, begun early in the pontificate of Archbishop Gray (1215-1255). A right of free passage along an ancient cart-road to the quarry, was also granted to the Chapter by Robert le Vavasour, about the same time. This William de Percy, who was the justice, above mentioned, died in 1244, and his son Henry, who died and was buried at Selby Abbey in 1272, obtained a charter from King Henry III. in 1270, to hold a market and fair at his manor of Tadcaster. The charter, preserved in the Public Record Office, is so much stained and in such bad condition, that I am unable to present a transcript of it. It is, however, ratified to be held weekly, on Tuesday.
Henry, son of Henry de Percy, in 1295 obtained a further royal concession, in that he had granted the right of free warren, that is to take conies, pheasants, woodcock, and other game in his demesne lands at Tadcaster. So jealous were the feudal monarchs of encroachments upon the royal forests, that a Crown license was necessary before any man could take as much as a rabbit off his own land.
I have just mentioned the old quarries at Huddleston, which have, doubtless, been worked, as already explained, from Roman times. When the Minster was commenced, traffic along the old Roman road, between these places, would be considerably increased, and a bridge over the Wharfe at Tadcaster would be a necessity. Although the bridge did exist, I find from the Fabric Rolls of the Minster that the stone was conveyed in wains from the quarries in Thevedale to the water-side at Tadcaster, and thence transported by boat to York (per navem a Tadcastre nsque Ebor). In 1419 I find the large sum of £6 paid for the transport by boat of 200 measures of stone from Tadcaster to York. In the will of William Barker, of Tadcaster, dated Oct. 22nd, 1403, a bequest is made to the fabric of the Minster for “caryyng unius shypfull petrarum per aquam;” a curious admixture of English and Latin, by the way; but the statement shews that the river and not the road was the common highway of goods traffic in those days.
The quarries named had a wide reputation, and stone from them was sent to many other places in England besides York. Sculptured fragments of the Tadcaster stone may be found here and there in Yorkshire, built into church and monastic walls of millstone-grit and other stone. In the gritstone walls of Bingley Church, in Airedale, are several such odd pieces. In 1281 the canons of the church of Howden had a quarry “in Tevesdale, adjoining the King’s quarry”. In 1291 the Abbot and Convent of Selby obtained a charter, entitled Carta de Quareva, from the Prior of Marton, in the Forest of Galtres, granting them permission to work three acres of a quarry in Theves dale, near Tadcaster, between the quarry of the Abbot and Convent of Thornton and that of’ the Prior and Convent of Drax. We have here evidence that at this time the quarries were being worked\by at least three monasteries, in addition to the Canons of Howden and the Chapter of York. That Drax Abbey was one of them is interesting because it shews that the fragments in Bingley Church, above alluded to, came from these quarries, as the church, down to the Dissolution, was a possession of that Priory.
But while discussing the subject of these quarries and the transport of material, let me once more turn to the bridge. William de Percy, I have observed, was lord of Tadcaster in 1272, and in the following year, I find from the records in the Hundred Rolls, that upon a commission issued 2nd Edward II., it was found that toll was taken by John le Vavasour, at his lime-mill at Sutton (?Stutton), near Tadcaster; also by Baldwin Wake at Kirkby (Wharfe); while the bailiff of the lady the Queen took toll at the bridge of Tadcaster, but by what warrant the jurors know not. The bridge had, doubtless, been erected by one of the early Percies, and on the death of Henry de Percy, Queen Eleanor became the guardian of his heir, who was a minor. But Magna Charta had, by one of its clauses, expressly prohibited the erection of new bridges so as to burden and oppress the neighbourhood, and it would appear that Tadcaster Bridge had then existed “time out of memory,” for the jurors, in 1273, were ignorant as to the origin of the toll that was then levied upon those who used it. It was not until 1530 that the first statute was passed relegating the custody of the principal highways and bridges to the county. Many of the old roads and bridges had been constructed by private bounty, and their owners exacted tolls, which in some cases have been maintained irrespective of successive statutes regulating the conduct of more recent public highways. Thoresby, in his Diary, says that he “returned by Scholes over another part of Winmoor,” where he “observed the toll-gatherer’s booth, where the agents of Sir Thomas Gascoigne are ready to receive toll of the carriages, which at a penny a pair of wheels, amounts to a considerable sum.”
But to continue the story of Tadcaster from the prosperous reign of Edward I. An enquiry had been held in 1258 to ascertain the extent and value of the manor, from which it would appear that many of the tenants had been enfranchised, and that a large part of the estate had been disposed of. In 1284 the Percies held only four carucates of land in Tadcaster, where ten carucates make a knight’s fee, which they held of the King in capite, paying 4s. annually to the Sheriff’s fine. When King Edward’s eldest daughter was married, in 1290, Henry de Percy contributed 16s., being his quota for Tadcaster, of the levy of 40s. on every knight’s fee in the kingdom. Thus the Percies had been well disposed towards their Tadcaster tenantry, giving them every encouragement, and they now owned only half the quantity of land here which they did in 1083. There seems to have been no local grants to the monasteries.
It is interesting to note that in 1258 there were three water-mills here (two mills had sufficed for the population in 1083), which with fishing, yielded to the lord 8 marks annually. He had also a court with garden, let out to farm, which produced 50s. yearly. Though no hail, manor-house or castle, is specified by name, the reference to a manor-court and garden, suggests the existence, past or present, of a capital-mansion, perhaps then in decay, and worth nothing beyond reprises. Six of the tenants were bond in body and goods to the lord, just as the dog and his kennel are to his master at the present day, to be destroyed or disposed of as the master pleaseth. The lord had also an oven or bakehouse in the town, where the tenants were obliged to bake their bread and pay for so doing. Many of these old feudal bakehouses can still be traced, as at Leeds and Skipton.

Chapter III

The accession of the hapless Edward II. brought the serpent out of his lair, and for a long period it hung
relentlessly upon mart and cross. The disasters of this reign brought misery and poverty to the town. The
victory at Bannockburn in 1314 brought the marauding Scots like locusts into the district, who ate up the best they could find, carried off the cattle, and brutally ill-treated the inhabitants, many of the stronger of whom fled for their lives, conveying as much corn away as they could. The Scots also entered the church, sacked, and nearly destroyed it; the manor-house, with its chapel, in Tadcaster East also went, as the pre-existing castle or manor-seat of the Percies, near the church, would appear to have been not then in existence. This was in 1318, when the Percies had already, ten years before, built and strongly fortified their castles at Spofforth and Leckonfield. In the year of Bannockburn an inquisition had been made touching the possessions of the Yorkshire lordships, when it was found that Percy held Tadcaster of the King in caftite by knight service. The Percies were in the thick of the campaigns that followed, but the English army, under the weak direction of Edward II., was unable to stem the ever-flowing devastation of the stalwart Highland invaders into north England. “The condition of Northumberland,” observes Mr. Cadwallader J. Bates, “was terrible in the extreme. For fifteen years after 1316 the whole country remained waste, no one daring to live in it except under the shadow of a castle or walled town.” The church at Tadcaster, which had been valued in 1290 at £43. 6s. 8d., was reduced to £28. 6s. 8d. in 1318, while the annual value of the vicarage was worth only £6. 13s. 4 Owing to the ravages of the Scots the inhabitants could not pay their accustomed tithes and taxes. Old Froissart relates in graphic detail, the sorry plight of Edward’s army during its expeditions in vainly endeavouring to allay the waste caused by the marauders. Men and horses were often without food or drink for days together, or they carried but one ill-baked loaf strapped to their back. In the rage of hunger, men in their madness fought and killed those who had been the companions of their long and miserable marches. Nobles and knights fared little better, and the whole country was in a state of despair and anarchy. Such were the fruits of the second Edward’s government.
The misery caused by all this loss was accentuated by an outbreak of murrain among cattle; the land had become soured by excessive rains and the want of proper tillage. This had its effect upon the people, and the annals of the next thirty or forty years abound with the horrors of famine and pestilence, which carried off thousands of the struggling poor. A special and new form of disease known as the Black Death, which I have previously mentioned, was the means of still further reducing the population, sparing neither rich nor poor; it being especially fatal to the Yorkshire clergy. An extended dissertation might be written on the social and economic changes that took place in the i century in parts of Yorkshire compared with Tadcaster. I find it evident from certain hitherto unpublished Lay Subsidies for Tadcaster at this period, that the town and district had enjoyed a high degree of prosperity down to the beginning of the 14th century. Even the depredations caused by the incursions of the Scots in 1318-19 did not leave the neighbourhood of Tadcaster in that state of cruel bankruptcy so observable in many other places. The tenths and fifteenths, which were the temporary aids issuing out of personal property, continued to be paid by the people of Tadcaster with surprising regularity. The tenths are said to have been first granted in the reign of Henry II. in order to defray the religious expeditions against Saladine, Emperor of the pagan Saracens, whence it was at first denominated the Saladine tenth. Subsequently a ninth was imposed by the Crown on all cities and boroughs, that is to say the ninth part of all their goods and chattels were to be taken and levied by lawful and reasonable assessment, “in aid of the good
keeping of this realm as well by land as by sea.” “Poor boraile people,” that is those who like the boors or farmers and labourers had to live by the sweat of their brows, were exempt from the tax, but all those who make profit by trade, as merchants, and “such who dwell in forests and wastes,” were to be taxed at a fifteenth.
Originally, says Blackstone, the amount of these taxes was uncertain, being levied by assessments new made at every fresh grant of the Commons, a commission for which (A.D. 1232) is preserved by Matthew Paris. This at length was reduced to a certainty, when by virtue of the King’s commission, dated 8th Edward III. (1334), new taxations were made of every township, borough, and city in the kingdom and recorded in the Exchequer.
This rate was at the time the fifteenth part of the value of every township, the whole for the kingdom amounting to about £29,000, and therefore it still kept up the name of a fifteenth, when, by the alteration of the value of money and the increase of personal property, things came to be in a very different situation. So that when of
later years, the Commons granted the King a fifteenth, every parish in England immediately knew its proportion; that is the identical sum that was assessed by the same aid in 1334, was raised by a rate among themselves and returned it into the royal Exchequer. The rateable value of Tadcaster was then, about fifteen years after the Scottish ravages, 45s.5d made up of a fifteenth of all taxable property. The following unpublished particulars give the names of the inhabitants of Tadcaster who contributed to the levy, with the amounts:
Rad’ de Normanville, 4s. 1d.; Will Call, 5s.; Thom. Ayr, 3s. 6d.; Simon
Hardicors, 3s. ; Ad. Borcher, 5s. 1d. ; Thom. Frer, 3S. ; Will. Wynter, 3s. 6d.
Walt’ de Batherton, 2s. 6d. ; Joh’ Pollard, 2s. 6d. ; Marg’. his wife, 3s. 6d.; Thom’
le Barker, 3s. 6d.; Robert Pistor, 3s. 6d. ; Rog’ fabro, 2s. 6d. Sum’ 45s. 5d.
Assessors and venditors were appointed for every district to assess and sell the movable goods; and this came very hard in times of scarcity or when great sickness prevailed. People in our own day can hardly realize the severity of life, hard fare and impoverishment which these constant drains on the goods of a township meant to its upholders. Many sank under the burden, and famine and disease followed. There had been great mortality amongst the poor throughout the reign of Edward II., and from the next assessments I meet with concerning Tadcaster, it is apparent that the parish had a hard struggle to maintain its credit when the Bailiffs called upon the town to deliver its quota of taxes in the 18th or 20th Edward III. ( the exact year is doubtful). William de Scargill and John de Burton were appointed collectors, and this is their report for Tadcaster:
Rad’ de Normanvill, 5s. 4d ; Thoma ffrere, 3s. ; Marg’ wife of Ad’ Barcar, 6s. 4d. Thom. Bercar, 4s. Robert le Bakester, 3s. ; Simone Hardicors, 4s. Richard de Kirkeby, 3s. Marg’ wife of Joh 3s.; Ad’ fabro’, 3s. Will’ de Ledes, 3s. ; Joh. Cokesford, 16d. Summa, 38s. rod.
The amount thus paid in 1344-6 was 6s. 7 or about one-seventh less than was raised about a dozen years earlier. It undoubtedly indicates a diminution of population or a reduction of the trading- class in the town to the condition of farm labourers. The status of the town had unmistakably suffered. It exhibits, however, a very different state of affairs from that which prevailed even four or five years previously, when according to the Inquisitiones Nonarurn of , Edward III. (i there were only two men in the parish able to pay above 1s. towards the fifteenth of movable property. One was Simon Hardicors, whose goods were worth 5 marks ( 6s. 8d), and he contributed to the imperial taxes the fifteenth value of them, or 4s. 5d.; the other was Benedicto de Grymeston, who paid 20d. The eleven others contributed sums from 3 to 10d. each. It will be observed that the above Simon Hardicors contributed 4s. in 1344-6; and there were ten other taxpayers. Everybody else in the parish was either a farmer or a labourer, and thought too poor to contribute to the imperial levy.
Then four or five years afterwards there broke out the terrible Black Death, and our records of Tadcaster for many years following are ominously silent. Three successive pestilences followed in this century, but they were not so destructive as that of 1348-9; for one reason the population was so much reduced there were fewer left to destroy. One Tadcaster vicar, Richard de Sourby, died in December, 1349, no doubt of this fell pestilence. The records of York shew a terrible mortality among the local clergy at this time. In the city of York it must have been a difficult matter to find people to bury the dead, as more than half the population is recorded to have succumbed. No Parliament assembled between January, 1349, and the same time in 1352, and many peers were absent owing to the plaga pestilenci mortalis. When the plague was over the Government made a serious drain on the able-bodied men of the country, who were called out to serve in the wars. As a consequence the land suffered greatly, men were scarce, and the price of labour rose enormously. In places like Tadcaster where there was a large number of freeholders, besides
villein-tenants who had their services to the lord commuted for a fixed quit-rent, these warlike times were certainly in favour of such freeholders and copyholders, as the fixed money payments did not represent even a sixth part of the value of such services due to the landlords, who had therefore good reason to complain. When the Poll-Tax was levied in 1378, which is the next record we have of Tadcaster, it is obvious that the contracted population had profited by the scarcity of the preceding years, and many of the inhabitants formerly in the position of mere labourers, were now tradesmen or merchants of moderate standing in the town. It is not likely, however, they were silent or neglected to demur to the oppressive taxation which that warlike monarch imposed on his subjects. When the tax was raised from a groat to three groats (equivalent to about 20s. of present currency), on all able persons above 15 years of age, there was a loud cry of resentment which ended in open rebellion; and when at length the insurrection was crushed the inhabitants of York had to pay 1000 marks before a pardon was granted to them.
These Poll Tax returns of 1378, when compared with the subsidies already cited, shew, that while Tadcaster had not escaped the terrible ordeals of famine and pestilence of the preceding generation, it was then, if not one of the most influential, at any rate one of the most populous and opulent towns in the county. There were 6o married couples then living in the town, besides 23 single adults; and allowing for absentees in war, &c., the total population would be not less than 400. This enumeration includes the township of Tadcaster and possibly Oxton and Catterton, which are not separately specified, and their population may have been annihilated by the Black Death. But Toulston is mentioned as having 11 married couples and 8 single above the age of 16 ; likewise Huddleston-cum-Lumby had 12 married couples and 4 single adults, and Stutton had 24 married couples and 5 single adults. It is interesting to observe that the town, situated on a great highway, was at this time (1378), famous for its brewhouses and good inns, there being two breweries, mentioned in 1341, and no fewer than five married hostilers, each rated at 18d., in the town, and one other at Toulston, but these hostilers were not exactly innkeepers as the term is understood to day. There were also three merchants, a draper, four wrights and blacksmiths, a walker or fuller, and a dyer, a tailor, a mason, and two shoemakers. The rest were employed in agriculture, and paid 4d each to the war tax. One can understand the presence of four blacksmiths on such a busy thoroughfare, but these smiths also obtained a good deal of outside work, in the manufacture of iron fittings for ox-wains, ploughs, chains, &c. In 1404, for example, I find William Marshall, of Tadcaster, was paid 6s. 2d. by the Chapter of York for 20 iron wedges for service in the quarries, probably at Thevedale. It may be noted that there is no suggestion of a castle or manor-house existing at Tadcaster at this era.
The disaster of 1314, it has been said, put back the dial-hand of civilisation fully two centuries, and during the whole of this period, and even longer, the annals of Tadcaster are full of the records of war and alarm, poverty and heavy taxation. It was hardly possible to obtain more than the barest existence, so constant and oppressive were the levies made upon the people during this long and troubled era. Contrasting life at that time with events at present, well may the English people rejoice at the wise counsels that have prevailed during the era of our late Sovereign Lady Victoria, the close of whose glorious reign found them in a condition of security and comfort never equalled in the nation’s history.
The close of the 14th century found Tadcaster again plunged in the excitement caused by the downfall of Richard II. The Bloody Assize, following the rebellions of Wat Tyler and Jack Straw, was scarcely over, when the ill-starred King was thrown into Pontefract Castle, and there, in the language of Shakespeare, he was “hacked to death.” Henry of Lancaster had landed in Yorkshire, and from Ravenspur, he reached London at the head of 6o,ooo men. The Earl Marshal, Thomas Mowbray, who was lord of Wighill, near Tadcaster, together with Archbishop Scrope, raised a rebellion in 1405, but through the strategy of the Earl of Westmorland, they were taken prisoners, and both soon afterwards were beheaded at York. The execution of these nobles created much ferment. Never before had an English prelate died by the axe of the public headsman. Hot with rage the Earl of Northumberland, old Henry Percy, mustered what men he could, and donning them in his livery marched through Wetherby to Tadcaster, where he added to his ranks, and thence on to Bramham Moor. Here he was met by the King’s troops in command of the High Sheriff, Sir Thos. Rokeby, when a sharp battle followed, and the Earl was slain, 19th February,1408.  His lands were all confiscated, together with those of at least one of his Tadcaster tenants, who had joined the Earl on his last march. The following particulars relating to this disaster have not before been printed
ATTAINDER OF ROBERT ESYNGWOLD, OF LANDS IN TADCASTER, 1408.
INQUISITION indented taken ex officio at Tadcaster xxvii. day of the month of ffebruary the eighth year of the reign of King Henry the fourth after the conquest (1408) before Thomas Egmanton Escheator of the lord King in the county of York. By the oath of Robert Dryffeld of Tadcaster, William Parson of the same, William Skelton, William Marshall, Richard Ednel, John Colingham, John Warde, William Walker, John Wryglye, John Bolton, John Warde, junr., and William Banaster, jurors, who present that Robert Esyngwold traitor was in arms against the lord King and his allegiance in company of Sir Henry Percy late Earl of Northumberland the viijth day of the month of May the sixth year of the reign of the Kiug above-said in the County of Northumberland and afterward the said Robert about the feast of St. John Baptist the sixth year of the said King was an adherent of the Scots enemies of the lord King against his allegeance which said Robert Esyngwold was seized on the day aforesaid on which he as a traitor rebelled against his King, of one waste piece of land, thirty acres of land, two shillings of rent, three acres and three roods of meadow with their appurtenances in the township of Tadcaster in the County of York which piece of land, thirty acres of land, two shillings rent, three acres and three roods of meadow, with their appurtenances in Tadcaster aforesaid by occasion of the rebellion and treason of Robert Esyngwold aforesaid belong and are forfeit to the lord King. Also they present that aforesaid waste piece of land, xxx. acres of land, ijs. rent, three acres three roods of meadow, are held of aforesaid Henry late Earl as of his manor of Spoford by the service of paying to the said manor per ann. vijd. ob. for all services and worth per ann. according to the true value of the same beyond reprises xiijs. iiijd. Also they present that aforesaid piece of waste land, xxx. acres of land, ijs. rent, three acres and three roods of meadow with appurtenances from the day of rebellion and treason of aforesaid Robert to the day of this Inquisition have laid waste and are held in default useless and uncultivated. In witness whereof to this Inquisition the jurors above-said have set their seals. Given the day place and year above-said.
The old Earl’s valorous and famous son, young Harry Hotspur, had fallen in the same cause at Shrewsbury in 1403; while his younger brother, Sir Ralph Percy, had also been slain in battle with the Saracens two years before. The great House of Percy was therefore now all but extinct; there being but one male heir left, namely, Henry, son of Hotspur, who was restored to his grandfather’s honours and became Earl of Northumberland in 1414. He fell at St. Albans in 1455, leaving a son and heir, Henry Percy, Earl of Northumberland, who as already related, died with his brother, Sir Richard Percy, on the bloody field of Towton in 1461.

Never was excitement so high at Tadcaster as on the memorable day of this terrible conflict between the White Rose and the Red. The inhabitants of the town were kept in a state of supreme suspense, awaiting the issue of this mighty battle, for the noble and valorous Percy, who sided with Lancaster, was their lord, and many must
have thought that if the day was lost to him, their own lives would be in peril. What was their consternation, then, on witnessing at the close of that dreadful Palm Sunday, thousands of flying Lancastrians swarming wildly into the town, many unarmed and capless and covered with wounds, leaving trails of their blood in the streets, crowding on to the bridge, then a much narrower structure than it is now, and falling a prey to the savage onslaught of the Yorkists. No quarter was given, it was useless crying for mercy. Many of the oppressed, however, managed to reach York, others shut themselves up in the old Priory at Helaugh. The Stapletons
at Wighill, being like many of their neighbours, staunch Lancastrians, it is supposed took refuge in Cumberland. Henry Percy, who was a minor at his father’s death in 1461, was restored in blood and honours by Edward IV. He died in 1489 and was buried at Beverley. He must have had a residence or strong-house at Tadcaster, for after the Yorkshire and Lincolnshire rising, instigated by Warwick, the King came to York, and, says Stowe, reached Tadcaster on 19th March, 1471, and next day proceeded to Wakefield. Within a month of this time fell the great Earl of Warwick, the king-maker, “ last of the Barons,” by whose death was extinguished
the stirring age of feudal chivalry. Tadcaster, though crushed with heavy taxation during most of the life-time of the above Earl Percy, seems to have felt something of the effects of returning prosperity in the intervals of peace. Henry Tudor was now on the throne (1485), and he decided to make a grand tour through his dominions, with the object of conciliating the people. He rode in great state, attended by numerous nobles and followers, all glittering in scarlet and gold. What impression the ceremony made upon the people of Tadcaster, as the lately-crowned King and his retinue passed through the town, history does not relate, The Earl Percy met his Highness on the road, as old Leland quaintly describes it : “ By the way in Barnesdale, a little beyond Robin
Hudde stone, th’erle of Northumberland with a right great and noble company, mete an gave his attendance upon the King, with 38 knyghts of his fee’d men, besides esquires and yeomen  At ‘radcastel the King, richly besene in a gowne of clothe of gold furred with ernlyn, took his courser. His hensheman and folowers also in goldsmythes work were richly besene. And so to York.”
Tadcaster has, indeed, had a large share of royal visits, for as we have seen, monarchs and princes were here before the Conquest, and for many centuries afterwards it continued to be a royal highway to and from York. In the summer of 1503 the Princess Margaret, wife of James IV-, of Scotland, passed through the town with much pomp. She was attended by the young Earl of Northumberland, “with many lords, ladies, knights, esquires, tnd gentlemen,” all finely mounted and richly caparisoned, to the number of full five hundred. The party dined at Tadcaster and then went on to York.
Tadcaster was also destined to occupy a prominent place in the great religious rebellions known as the Pilgrimage of Grace and the Rising in the North. The monasteries were threatened with immediate destruction, when Sir Robert Aske, of Aughton, near Howden, who was in the company that attended the Princess Margaret, at Tadcaster, I have just mentioned, resolved to organize a stout resistance to such a cruel and high-handed desecration as that which the King’s measure implied. It had also got noised abroad that some of the parish churches were to be put down, so that no two should be nearer than five miles apart. Either• Tadcaster or Bolton Percy was to be retained, but Wighill, Walton, and Thorp Arch would have to be given up. A commissioner appearing at Tadcaster and requiring the churchwardens to render an account of
the church-plate, awakened a suspicion that it was going to be seized and chalices of copper substituted for those of gold.
Sir Thomas Percy, younger brother of the Earl of Northumberland, in common with most of the Yorkshire gentry, joined Aske in this futile attempt to stem the tide of the Reformation. Speed says the rebellious were all “rustics,” but the castles of Scarborough. and Skipton alone in this county held out for the King, so universal and bitter was the resentment of such an outrage on men’s consciences. Aske took York, and also Pontefract, while Skipton, too, appears to have temporarily fallen into the hands of the rebels. Their success, however, was of short duration, for within a few months resistance became useless, and the leaders of th rebellion were taken; the Abbots of Whalley, Sawley, Jervaux and Fountains were all executed; Aske was hanged at York; Sir Thomas Percy, Sir John Hamrnerton, and Sir John Bulmer suffered at Tyburn; Lady Bulmer was burnt; Lord Darcy, of Templehurst, was hanged on Tower Hill ; Sir Nicholas Tempest was hanged at York; and Sir Robert Constable, of Flamborough, suffered at Hull.
But the rancour was still in men’s hearts; their bodies might be smitten, but the spirit of old creeds could not be crushed. Again they rose in rebellion ; this time Percy’s son, Thomas, created in 1557 Earl of Northumberland, and Charles Neville, Earl of West morland, were in the forefront of the rising. At the very outset of the campaign Earl Percy had been nearly taken unawares while sleeping at his manor of Topcliffe, near Thirsk, but he escaped by a stratagem. This was in the autumn of 1569. A large number of brave, willing, and determined followers were soon gathered under the banners of the two Earls. Their standard-bearer was old Richard Norton, of the ancient family of Norton Conyers and Rilston in Craven, to whom, in the words of an old ballad, Earl Percy addressed a letter soliciting his assistance,— Come thou hither, my little foot-page,
Come thou hither unto mee,
To maister Norton thou must goe,
In all the haste that ever may bee.
The letter is successful, for not only does the head of the house decide to assist the Earl, but he is joined in his resolve by “his eight good sons.” The story of this family is full of tragic romance, and their unhappy fate forms the theme of Wordsworth’s beautiful poem, The White Doe of Rylston.
Many of the incidents of this unfortunate rebellion took place about Wetherby and Tadcaster, and many a local man paid dearly for his temerity. The prime object of the movement was the irrevocable restoration of the Catholic religion, and the placing of Mary of Scotland on the English throne. Setting out with this determination, they besprinkled their faithful army with holy-water, as had confirmed and encouraged their forefathers in the brave days of the monasteries. Then they marched triumphantly to Darlington and Richmond and back to Ripon, where mass was said in the Cathedral. Picking up fresh adherents as they went along, by ,the time they reached Wetherby they were several thousand strong. There they heard that a detachment of footmen was on the way to assist the Queen’s forces at York, soa strong, armed party set out from Wetherby and intercepted the Protesta at Tadcaster, taking 200 of them prisoners. Next day they mustered on Clifford Moor and their numbers were found to consist of 1600 horse and 4000 foot. But they were not yet able enough to attack York, so they waited about Tadcaster, gathering recruits, and Sir Thomas Wentworth writing on Dec. 3 1569, to the Marquis of Winchester, says they were “lying between York and Tadcaster for a week or upwards.” Their object was eventually to capture York, which was then held for the Queen by Lord Sussex, and they also sent out spies along the roads towards Selby and Ferrybridge to intercept, if possible, the strengthening of the York garrison by any fresh supplies from the south. On Dec. 4 however, Lord Darcy and Sir Thomas Gargrave agreed to convey treasure and ammunition from Doncaster to York, and within the next few days they succeeded in reaching that city.
The Papist army now retired northwards and laid siege to Barnard Castle, which capitulated after a gallant stand made by Sir George Bowes and his brother, Robert Bowes. Sir George could have held out possibly until the arrival of reinforcements from York, but the bulk of his men were at heart for the old faith, and owing to the daily desertion of the garrison over the walls, he was obliged to evacuate the place; thence he proceeded with the remnant of his supporters to York. Here a Council of War was held, and on Dec.15th the Earl of Sussex and Sir George Bowes returned with a well-equipped army to Barnard Castle. The Catholics were then put to flight, and their two leaders, with old Richard Norton, fled into Scotland, leaving their disconsolate adherents to make the best escape they could. Earl Percy was afterwards captured and brought to the scaffold at York 22nd August, 1572. Thus he died, leaving four daughters, co-heiresses, but no male issue.
By the end of the year every spark of the rebellion had been extinguished, and many hundreds of its unhappy partisans were thrown into foul gaols. Wetherby, like Cawood and Sherburn, had been a garrison of the Queen for some time, and on Jan. 6th, 1569- 70, Lord Admiral Clynton writes from there that “all the army is discharged excepting 1500 men.” On Feb. 1st, Captain Thomas Leighton begs for allowance of conduct-money and other charges for the officers and 500 common soldiers on a march from Wetherby to London. Meanwhile the unfortunate victims of the rebellion were sadly awaiting their doom. Sir George Bowes, who had charge of “this business,” now ordered gibbets to be erected in nearly every market-town and public place between Newcastle and Tadcaster. He gave out warrants to the constables of the several townships where gibbets were erected, and ere many weeks were spent, crowds of anxious onlookers witnessed the sickening sight of hundreds of ill-starred men and youths “swinging for their religion.” There is an enclosure on the York road, just out of Tadcaster, called Gallows Field, which in all probability marks the site of some such gibbet.
During the month of February, Queen Elizabeth issued a Declaration “to all her loving subjects,” setting forth the malicious libels both from abroad and at home, which led to the rebellion in the North. The principles on which her government had been conducted were pointed out, and the “ unexampled prosperity” enjoyed by England since her accession, as also her determination to continue in support of the true Christian religion, and to administer the laws with moderation, but at the same time with severity against disturbers of the public tranquillity. She appealed to all classes to continue in loyalty and obedience to the Throne and the laws of the realm. It is needless here to dwell upon the troubles that followed, although England under the laws passed in the reign of Elizabeth, was, no doubt, all the better for the new constitution.
To the able and steadfast Duke of Somerset, Baron Seymour of Hacke, must be attributed a large measure of the difficult work of promoting the Reformation. The government needed a “strong man,” who brooked no gainsay, and in his Protector Somerset the King found a staunch and even destructive partisan. The great Duke was ancestor of Charles Seymour, sixth Duke of Somerset, who married in 1682 Elizabeth, only surviving child and heiress of Joceline Percy, Earl of Northumberland, by whom he had Algernon, seventh Duke of Somerset, whose only surviving child, Elizabeth, wife of Sir Hugh Smithson, Bart., was mother of Algernon, fifth Duke of Northumberland. By the above marriage of Charles, Duke of Somerset, with the heiress of the Percies (who was twice a widow before the age of 16), the manor of Tadcaster came to this noble House. The Duke of Somerset’s daughter, Elizabeth, having married Henry, 8th Earl of Thomond, and Viscount Tadcaster, the property in Tadcaster passed to him. He died in i without issue, and was succeeded by his nephew, Percy, son of the eminent statesman, the Rt. Hon. Sir Wm. Wyndham, Chancellor of the Exchequer. He assumed the name of O’Brien, and in 1756 was created Earl of Thomond, but dying in unmarried, the Earldom expired. The Tadcaster estates came to Col. George Wyndham, of Petworth, Sussex, who in 1859 was created Lord Leconfleid, and he sold the manor, with lands, together with the advowson of the church, to the first Lord Londesborough, who died in 1860. In 1873 the manor of Tadcaster, with its royalties, fines, quit-rents, and privileges, together with the advowson of the church of Tadcaster, was purchased by Colonel Fairfax, of Bilbrough, for £23,000.

The trustees of the late Samuel Varley, Esq., are the present lords of the manor as well as patrons of the church, but the land is held by various owners.
In the 17th century Tadcaster was again one of the head-quarters in the broil of Civil War. Century after century, era after era, her peace had been destroyed and her progress impeded by entanglement in war; the ancient town—on the highroad to York—having always been regarded as a place of great strategical importance. Here in November, 1642, was begun that fateful campaign which led to the extinction of the English monarchy in 1649. Ferdinando, Lord Fairfax, commander of the Parliamentary forces, “with an eye on York,” had entrenched himself on the west side of the bridge, while his gallant son, Sir Thomas, afterwards the “great Lord Fairfax,” was sent with 40 horse and 300 foot to hold the bridge at Wetherby. The Earl of Newcastle set out from York with a force of about 8000 men, of whom 2000 were horse and dragooners, and marching along the old Roman road by Street Houses, approached with seven pieces of cannon the old bridge at Tadcaster. Lord Fairfax had been obliged to relegate a considerable part of his force to Selby and Cawood, and when the Royalists came in sight he had not 800 men in his caIl. Nevertheless he resolutely commanded his little army to stick to the trenches, and when the battle began in the morning of Dec.7th they maintained their ground till sunset with deadly purpose, counting many dead in the fields on the opposite side of the Wharfe. A sortie was then made by the Royalists to take the bridge by storm, but in this they were repulsed, though in the struggle, Captain Lister, one of Lord Fairfax’s most gallant officers, was shot through the head.  Henry Calverley, Esq., head of the house of Calverley Hall, near Leeds, a staunch Royalist, who had to compound for his estates, was probably captured in this engagement, as we find him shortly afterwards a prisoner at Cawood Castle. Eventually the troops of the Parliament were obliged to withdraw from sheer disparity in numbers, leaving the town in undisputed possession of the Royalists.
Evidences of these past events are not wanting in the remains and traditions of the fight existing at Tadcaster at the present day. The  agricultural development, which had its effect on the material well being of the people. One of the last local acts of the Percies I have noted, appears under the date, 18th Dec., 1647, when the Earl of Northumberland demised to Phineas, son of the Rev. Nathaniel Jackson, M.A., a messuage and certain lands in Tadcaster, which afterwards descended to the Hallows, of Norton, Co. Derby. The father of this Nathaniel Jackson was, I may add, John Jackson, rector of Melsonby, near Richmond, and one of his sons married a daughter of Ralph Bowes, descended from the family of Aske, whom I have lately mentioned in connection with the troubles of the Reformation.
These troubles were not yet at an end, for in spite of the show of joy and the ringing of church bells on the accession of James II., there were many in this neighbourhood, and notably the Fairfaxes, who feared a religious re-action, and had many and grave misgivings as to the future of the Protestant cause in theit midst. Roman Catholicism was now practically non-existent in the parish, and the inhabitants in consequence looked with no great favour on a monarch of such avowed Catholic bias as was King James. Down to this time in the century under review I can discover but the smallest trace of Catholic allegiance in the parish. In the return of Papists in 1604, certified by the Mayor and Aldermen of York, there were but 27 avowed Papists in the whole Ainsty, not one was in Tadcaster, though they were more numerous in Barkston Ash, but Lady Catherine Fairfax is mentioned among the recusants, and it is somewhat singular that one, Thomas Tailor, gent., is also certified as an unflinching Catholic. He is stated to be steward to the Earl of Cumberland, whose family were staunch Protestants, and had ever from the Dissolution of monasteries exerted themselves in promoting the Reformation. A family of the same name, consisting of four members, all living in Tadcaster, were also returned as recusants in 1637 and again in 1691, “Ann, ye wife of Thomas Taylor, gent.,” was reported as a Papist.
As Duke of York, the King had visited Tadcaster, with his amiable wife, who was a daughter of Lord Clarendon, in 1665, while on his way to pass a few months at York, during the terrible prevalence of the plague in London. On Tadcaster Bridge he was met by the Sheriffs, but at York neither the Lord Mayor nor Aldermen received him at the gate of the city, a significant lack of honour which drew on the magistrates the resentment of the King and a reprimand signed by the Home Secretary.

But as King his rule was not destined to live long. He had been greatly influenced by reading Dr. Heylin’s powerful History of the Reformation, a work of much note at that time, which was the means of winning many back to Rome, and the King now felt it his duty to further in every possible way the interests of the Catholic religion. He proceeded to convert one of the larger rooms in the old Manor House at York into a Chapel, in which Roman Catholic services continued to be celebrated for some time, and in other ways he endeavoured to promote the amenities of Catholics in the district. But the men of York and Tadcaster were not slow to resent such an intrusion upon their growing liberties, and when the news arrived that William, Prince of Orange, was about to land in this country, in order to champion the Protestant cause, the soldiers of York and Tadcaster were called out, and the cry went forth “A free Parliament, the Protestant religion, and no Popery!” Great was the rejoicing when William, with his Princess Mary, was proclaimed at York on Feb. 17th  1688-9. Bonfires blazed from many a Yorkshire hill-top, and high festival prevailed in town and country, many a place in the land being known to this day as Orange Hill, William’s Hill, Orange Rock, &c.
Shortly after the accession of William and Mary a readjustment was made in the rating of the inhabitants of Tadcaster. They had no doubt suffered greatly through the inclemencies of war, and in 1653 the old rod. rate, based upon a statute of 44th Elizabeth, was reduced to 6d., and the 4d thus taken off was put on other places, which had been less affected and had developed proportionately more than had Tadcaster. Indeed there seems to have been no extension of agriculture, in point of acreage, within the parish since the time of the war, while a number of other places had sped on wonderfully. This was the case at Drax, which had been all “tied land,” that is held by the Priory of Drax, and after the dissolution of the house, developed its resources amazingly. About 1690, Drax was stated to he worth £I500 annually. In the parish of Burne, again, it was stated that there had been 200 acres of common lately improved, which remained unassessed. So of other places. The West Riding authorities therefore decided to make the following readjustment, and Tadcaster was to continue a 6d. town. Drax was raised from 11d. to 111/2d Cawood 9d to 91/2d Wistow 9d to 91/2d, Barlow 3d to 4d, Burne 4d. to 5d, Carleton with Camblesworth 71/2d to 8d.; while Selby was reduced from 12d. to 11d.
The wars of the Succession kept the country in a state of ferment
for many years, and with the land and property tax now at 4s. in the  pound, public progress was during this time Thwarted. The cry that Queen Anne was dead, and had left no heirs, once more gave the Catholics their opportunity. Had any of the Queen’s children lived to be able to succeed to the throne (she had 18 children and all died young), it is very probable that neither of the Jacobite rebellions, with their terrible consequences, would have taken place. The people of Tadcaster, whose town had always been imposed upon for military purposes, and suffered accordingly, more than most other places, were prevented from carrying ont many needed improvements. Wearied with war and heavy taxation, public indifference grew into culpable neglect. The roads about Tadcaster at the commencement of the 18th century, appear to have been left to take care of themselves and in 1704 I find that 20 was estreated upon the inhabitants for the repair of Tadcaster Lane. When in 1715 the spirit of religious rebellion broke out, and James, “the Pretender,” hoped to achieve what the Pilgrims of the 16th century had failed in, the people of Tadcaster were called upon to provide foot-soldiers for the militia to serve in the King’s service. Their names are enrolled in the contemporary register of Sir Henry Goodricke, now at Bolton Abbey, which I have previously alluded to.
During the second Jacobite rising of 1745 the army of Marshal Wade appears to have passed through Tadcaster, or what seems more likely, to have taken either the road from Leeds through Harewood to Ripon, or the North Road through Wetherhy to Boroughbridge, where the forces arrived on Dec. 2 en route for Newcastle. Wade, however, despatched a flying column under General Oglethorpe from Wetherby, via Leeds and Bradford in order to intercept, if possible, Prince Charles’s northward retreat. An old woman named Betty Jackson, who died at Holbeck, near Leeds, in 1828, aged 106, used to relate that when she was a young woman she accompanied the pack-horses with rations to Marshal Wade’s army, lying about Tadcaster. The squadron, on arriving at Leeds, was billeted upon the able inhabitants, and it is said that the General was the guest of the Wades at the house now known as Kirkstall Grange.

A firm and wise-dealing government, led by Sir Robert Walpole, gave much security to the country under the House of Hanover, and many public works were now begun. Yet the bulk of the people felt little concern in these measures, and having begun to taste the fruits of prosperity, were loth to part with that which they were now reaping, on the improvement of roads and water-ways, and other notable and important works. Roads were still in a wretched state, and had we all the records of disasters on the great way to and from Tadcaster at this time, a sorry tale it would be. The establish ment of coaches in the latter years of the reign of George II. led to a widening and amending of the highways, to which, however, there was so much opposition that gangs of violent men and youths, not realizing the ultimate value of such improvements, destroyed the new roads in many places, and wrecked the toll-bars.
But the new roads were certainly not “all loss,” as many had foolishly imagined. It was found that the cost of transport was very considerably lessened, and that trade and public business were greatly facilitated. Tadcaster was one of the oldest post-towns in the country, and when the coaches started running, its business greatly increased. The town also obtained such renown that many persons were tempted to settle here and in the neighbourhood, and build houses for themselves, especially the gentry. Arthur Young, in describing his six months’ tour in the North of England in 1768, speaks of the Tadcaster road as excellent. In the hey-day of the coaches there were nearly fifty stage-coaches passing through and more than thirty of them changing horses in the town daily; the old White Horse, now the Londesborough Hotel, the A ngel, and Rose and Crown being the three great coaching-houses. But this number, as Mr. Bradley tells us, was greatly augmented “by the usual contingent. of post-chaises and private chariots,” while at Assize times, as was the custom, “the Lord Mayor of York and his attendant aldermen and councillors, met the Judges at the boundary of the city, whilst outriders were sent forward as far as Tadcaster to herald their approach, and their lordships in their State carriages passed through the town and over the old bridge, whilst the long, straggling street would be literally lined on both sides from end to end with chaises bearing barristers, lawyers and their clients, witnesses, constables, and numerous other concomitants natural to crime and litigation.”
The subsequent development of the woollen industries in such towns as Leeds, Bradford, Halifax, and Huddersfield, and the introduction of railways, left the old historic town of Tadcaster behind in the race for wealth. Of its later history and position I will speak in the chapter on the TOWN AND TRADE OF TADCASTER,

MEMORIES of unnumbered centuries gather round the
Church of Christ in the old parish of Tadcasfer I
have elsewhere given evidence of the prevalence of
Christianity in York and in Wharfedale during the
Roman occupation. Situated on the great military way between Chester and York, and beside a river sacred to the gods, as the Wharfe is known to have been, it is more than likely that a temple in honour of pagan deities would be very early erected here, and that this temple would he superseded by a Christian structure before the Roman evacuation of Tadcaster in the fifth century. I have said that the Roman town embraced the site of the existing church and churchyard in Tadcaster, where in all probability burials had taken place, if not in Roman, at any rate during the Saxon or Danish hierarchy, though burials within the precincts of the church are certainly as old as the 4th century. This would also form another motive for the erection of the subsequent Norman church on such a low-lying site beside the river.

This church owed its foundation to the benevolence of William de Percy, or to his son, the great Alan, at the close of the 11th or early in the 12th century, as existing remains prove. The extent and importance of the parish also led to the foundation of other chapels and oratories in after times, and the discovery, in 1881 of a 15th century piscina, while digging in the cellar of the old Manor House, in Tadcaster East, belonging to Mr. Varley, leads me to believe that a chapel was also attached to a later manor-hall of the Percies, pulled down when the present house was built. The value of this sacred object does not appear to have been sufficiently ascertained, but I find it bears three shields of arms sculptured on three of its four sides, the fourth being plain, from its having been erected against a pillar or a wall. One of the coats is the Neville saltire displaying a crescent for difference (both Henry Percy, first Earl of Northumber land, who fell at Bramham in 1408, and Henry, the second Earl, slain at St. Albans in 1455, married daughters of the house of Neville), another, the chequy shield of Warren (also a Percy match), while the third bears the lion rampant of the Percies, a charge shewn in the Roll of Arms to have been first borne by Henry de Percy, who died in 1318. The Scottish ravages after Bannockburn were the probable cause of the wreck of this chapel; the Scots almost levelled the church. But the Percies, after 1309-10, resided at Spofforth, where a chapel was attached to the castle.
Owing to the bad state of the roads in early times, and in low- lying districts to the prevalence of floods, there were frequent petitions for the erection of convenient oratories or new chapels, so that the inhabitants might attend such places dry-shod in bad weather or when the waters were out. One such chapel is mentioned at Catterton,

and another chantry was built by private bounty at “Todecaster Townesende, distaunt from the parysshe churche a quarter of a myle.” It was dedicated to St. John the Baptist, and seems to have been much needed, as it became very popular. In 1414 licence had been granted to the Abbot and Convent of Sallay to have the dedication of Tadcaster Church translated from the 28th August, upon which the feast was held, over to the Sunday next after the feast of St. John the Baptist’s decollation, then to be solemnly celebrated every year, because of harvest time, in which it happened before. This chantry of St. John the Baptist was not, however, built and endowed until 1504. through the piety of William Vavasour of Cudsworth and William Cleveland, clerk, of Tadcaster. The necessity for it arose from “that there is a great water between the said parysshe and the chauntery, so that when it cresit with waters, the people there cannot come to the said parysshe churche.”
• The unfortunate situation of the church so close beside the river has always rendered it liable to inundations, and the damp and vapours arising from frequent incursions of water must have been the cause of many pains and rheums to those worshipping there. It must be remembered that our Catholic forefathers used their parish churches not on Sundays only, but every day of the week, and the old chantry-chapel at Tadcaster town-end had services performed in it four days in the week.
I cannot trace any serious flood in the church previous to the Reformation, though undoubtedly inundations must have been not infrequent in early times. Among the West Riding Sessions Rolls I have found the following record of an alarming state of the church arising from these floods in 1758. As will be seen water occasionally lay in the church to a depth of three feet or more.
PETITION RESPECTING INUNDATIONS OF TADCASTER CHURCH.
(Pontefract Sessions, 3rd April, 1758.)
Upon the Petition of the Vicar, Churchwardens, and others, the Inhabitants within the Parish of Tadcaster, in the said Riding, setting forth that the Parish Church of Tadcaster aforesaid is situated very nigh the River Wharf, which very often overflows its banks and frequently the Church yard, and breaks into the said Church and makes such a depth of water therein that the petitioners cannot assemble to Divine Service therein without imminent danger of their lives, the water sometimes rising in the said Church to the height of three feet & upwards, and breaks down, removes and displaces the Closets, Seats and Pews within the said Church, and leaves so much wreck & dirt therein that the petitioners cannot assemble therein sometimes for near a month after such overflowing, and that the replacing the said Closets, Seats & Pews, and cleansing the said Church from dirt & wreck has frequently lost the petitioners large sums of money. That in order to prevent the said river from overflowing and breaking into the said Church it will be necessary to raise the floor, walls & roof of the said Church three feet higher or more than the same are at present. That the walls of the said Church, by reason of the overflowing of the said river, are decayed, marked and shattered to such a degree that they are quite irreparable, and the roof so much shattered that the same must entirely be taken down & rebuilt, & that the pulling down, rebuilding & raising the said Church will cost upon a moderate computation the sum of one thousand & eighty-nine pounds over & besides the old materials, which sum the petitioners cannot raise amongst themselves without the assistance of charitable & well-disposed persons. The Truth of the allegations in which petition being proved to the satisfaction of this Court, jr is ORDERED that a Certificate be made thereof from this Court to the Lord Keeper of the great Seal of Great Britain, in order to procure for the said petitioners His Majesty’s most gra&ous letters patent to enable them to ask, collect & receive the contributions of religiously and charitably disposed people for the encourage ment & carrying on of so pious a work.
The Brief referred to in this petition was granted, and the church was restored, but to what extent is not stated. In 1776 a faculty was also granted to erect a gallery, and in 1802 another gallery was erected. A barrel-organ, at that time, stood in the chancel.
But before I describe the church, let me briefly review events connected with its early history. The church, as I have stated, was granted to Sallay Abbey by Matilda or Maude, Countess of Warwick, ca. 1180, and confirmed by charter of Agnes, her sister. That monastery had been founded by William de Percy, their father, who died in 1168, and in the chapter-house of the Abbey many of the family were buried with all the pomp and solemnity of ritual befitting their high station. As one stands within the ruins of that once great and stately monastery, and looks upon the place where neither stone nor brass remains to mark their long-revered burial-place, how the reflection is forced upon one of the vanity of all things human. The deeds of the mighty great are often buried with them; and well may we see in graven brass or sculptured tomb the hands uplifted towards Him who is their surest trust
The grantee of Tadcaster Church to Sallay Abbey had also by charter endowed the same and the Chapel at Hazlewood, with a carucate of land in Catton, where the Lady Matilda was born; likewise a yearly pension for perpetual masses for the souls of her husband and family “by the advice of the Lord Vavasour and other of our faithful lieges, and of the whole court.” Had we but a full catalogue of the magnificent series of Papal Regesta preserved in the Vatican at Rome doubtless much of value and interest would be forthcoming respecting our ancient churches in Yorkshire, and particularly of those appropriated to the monasteries. There is at Rome an almost unbroken series of contemporary letters, orders and instructions of the Papal Court from the time of Innocent III. (A.D. 1198), contained in upwards of 2000 volumes. This vast mine of arch treasure has only partially been searched, and through recent investigations I am enabled to present the following interesting transcript relating to Tadcaster from one of the early Papal Letters contained among the Vatican archives, and not before published. It is a somewhat serious reflection on the depravity of the times during the troubled era of King John. The clergy, it seems, who ought to have been the guardians of public morals, were often as bad or worse than the common people. Polygamy, to which the paper alludes, had been strictly forbidden by canon-law at a remote period, and in the early ages of Christianity, as we gather from Tacitus (Dc mor Germ. 18), it is plain that a plurality of wives was then considered repulsive and incompatible with a well-ordered State. He says, ,brope soli brrbarorurn singulis uxoribus contenti sunt, being strictly accordant with the divine fiat at the Creation. And upon this doctrine that a man must be content with one wife the marriage laws of this and other countries were ratified at a very early date, and he who broke this law was in some states punishable by death. But let us see what our Tadcaster parson had done.
DECREE 3RD H0N0RIUS III. A.D. 1218.
Mandate to the Abbot of Fountains, the Prior of Marton, in the Diocese of
York, and Master J. Romanus, Canon of York, to take proceedings on the showing
of the Abbot and monks of Sawley against Robert de Lelleia, clerk, of the Diocese
of York, who has had three wives and has publicly pleaded cases of bloodshedding
in the secular Courts, taking no notice of church censures, and presuming
unlawfully to hold the Church of Tadcaster, and many others, with cure of souls.
The document concludes by stating that the Pope had already
ordered them to report on the case, but his letters having been stolen
or lost in transit (a not uncommon occurrence at this time) they were
unable to act, and thus at the date of this order nothing had been
done. Whether the parson had been kept in prison in the interval,
or what was the ultimate verdict upon him, there are no present
records to show.
Among the same Vatican archives there is an order from Pope
Gregory IX., dated the 13th year of his pontificate (1239), authorizing
the Abbot and Convent of Sallay, in the diocese of York, to enter
into possession of, and hold to their uses, the church at Tadcaster, of
which the right of patronage had been granted to them by Matilda, Countess of Warwick, and William de Percy, patrons of the same, the indult to take effect on the death or resignation of the rector. A vicar’s portion to be reserved enough to support all charges of the Bishop, Archdeacon, and their officials. This hitherto unrecorded testimony to the ordination of a vicarage is important. Lawton says the vicarage was ordained 7 Ides August, 1290, but this refers to the Apostolic grant of certain tithes hereafter mentioned.
The living of the church was at this era very valuable, and in the Taxation of Pope Nicholas IV. (ca. 1292) it is set down as worth by the year 65 marks (£43. 6s. 8d.) ; the grant of a tenth of the possessions of the Church in England having been made to King Edward I. towards the expenses of an expedition to the Holy Land. In the New Taxation of his unfortunate son and successor, Edward II., made in 1318, the annual value of the church was reduced to £28 6s. 8d., and the vicarage was worth £6 13s. 4d or about
£120 of present money. Hammer and torch had made a wreck of
Tadcaster; the church was “demolished and laid waste,” these being the words of Archbishop Melton to the King in 1318. At the Reformation the vicarage was worth only £8 4s. 7 per annum; such was the capacious maw of the monasteries, which left to the oft half-starved vicars but the crumbs of their rich gains.
The reduction of the living in 1318 indicates the extent of the Scottish forays into the affluent domains of the old parish of Tadcaster. But despite this great havoc, the industry of the inhabitants soon made the fertile lands yield their wonted stores; and though many districts in Yorkshire continued in a state of terrible poverty almost all through this century, Tadcaster suffered less from the effects of intermittent plagues and heavy taxation than most other places. The Nonarurn lnquisitiones of 14th-15th Edward III. (1340-41) exhibit in the clearest manner the state of the parish before the irruption of the Black Death. The commission directed by statute at this time for a subsidy of the ninth lamb, the ninth fleece, and the ninth sheaf, to be levied on the goods of all prelates, earls, and barons in the realm, shews us that the value of the church had improved somewhat since 1318. A jury composed of the best men of the district was empanelled, their names being John Pollard, William Calle, William Vint, Hugo flu Sym (Simpson), Thomas Person, William de Ledes, William fil Thom (Thompson) de Strutton (sic), Richard fil William (Williamson) of the same, Hugh fil William de Heslewood, Henry Grayne of the same, Adam fil Ivonies de Oxton, and William Chapman of the same, who affirm on their oath that the ninth of corn, wool, and lambs of the whole parish is worth this year £30. 3s. 4d and no more, because the profits of the church are in glebe-rents of the tenants. The tithe of mills was set down as worth 3os.; tithe of hay 60s.; in oblations, Lent tithes, and other small tithes £6. I3s. 4d.
The vicars of Tadcaster enjoyed the fruits of some peculiar and special tithes, such as servants in Lent, viz., “ of mercenaries, merchants, bakers, carpenters, stone-diggers or quarrymen, masons, cupars, and lime burners, within the parish.” Also by later grant the tithe of malt-makers, together with bread offered at the altar, with the tithes of the consecrated bread; also the sirage and candles offered on the feast of the Purification, with mortuaries, espousals, fishings, and the annual rent of 12d. in the chapel of Catterton. Also the vicars had the tithe hay of Smaws, Scotton and Haslewood, with the tithe meadow of Wm. le Vavasour in his meadow of Tadcaster; and the tithe hay of the “oxgang meadows on that side of the water whereon the church is situated, but of the demesne meadows and the meadow of the Grange he shall have nothing.” The vicars were also to have free use “of that mansion for which the Abbot and Convent of Sallay were wont to receive half-a-mark yearly without pension.” These concessions were made by Apostolic authority in 1290.
In the Parliamentary Survey (ca. 1654) the living is returned as worth [ per annum, including a rent of 16s. 8d. out of Haslewood. The Commissioners say that Mr. William Warren was then vicar, “a constant preaching minister.” There is a curious indictment contained among the Depositions from York Castle, concerning this vicar. George Barker, innholder, of Tadcaster, said that on 25th July, 1654, being a Sunday, Barbara Siddall interrupted Mr. Warren whilst preaching in Tadcaster Church, “utteringe speeches of her owne, soe much that the said Mr. Warren was forced to forbeare preachinge, and to come out of the pulpit; at whose comeinge forth she told him that the Bible was not the Word of God, but onely a dead letter.” The incident, doubtless, refers to the difference that existed at this period between the Evangelical party and the growing influence of Puritanism. Evidently they were not all Puritans in Tadcaster. The Puritan parson had probably been preaching on the exclusive authority of the Bible as a guide to faith, whereas the old church of the Episcopacy, which the woman thus boldly stood up for, relied largely on the teachings and traditions of the Fathers.

The floor of the church, as I have remarked, has been several times raised, with the object of placing it above the reach of floods. But this was not rendered perfectly effectual until the church was rebuilt so recently as 1875-6. Inundations from the Wharfe have been in past times not infrequent, and down almost to the year of rebuilding, the floor of the church has been covered to a depth of five or six inches. At the time named the whole of the building was taken down, and re-erected on the same site, with the same material and in the same style as before. By this arrangement the floor was raised nearly five feet, and the original level may be gauged by the position of the capitals of two piers near the tower-arch in the church. These columns were not disturbed at the rebuilding.

Originally the church was built in the form of a cross, but in 1398 a chantry was added which filled up the south-east recess, and in 1343 (? 1477)) the north-east angle had been similarly taken up with the chantry of St. Catherine. There were also indications of a parvise having been over the porch, which in pre-Reformation times had doubtless been used as a school. The tower is high and massive, rising in three tiers, and has double belfry-windows. The parapet is handsomely embattled, with crocketed pinnacles at the four angles, and the tops of the buttresses are also elegantly pinnacled, likewise the buttresses round the church. On the south side of the tower, at the intersection of the first and second stages, is a handsome canopied niche.’ The church is dedicated to St. Mary. It is rather unfortunate that the ancient south doorway (Norman) was not restored to its
original position at the rebuilding in 1875. This doorway has been patched up from an old doorway and other stones found in the walls, and built up against the west wall of the south aisle, covering a modern window fitted with fragments of old glass. It bears chevron mouldings, and the shafts have square abaci supporting a semi-
circular arch. This doorway is doubtless in great part a relic of the first building after the Conquest.
The interior also presents some other features of good antiquity. On the north side the piers separating the nave from the aisle are massive and circular; those on the south side being octagonal, but all the arches are pointed. The north aisle was enlarged four years ago, by pulling down and setting back the out-wall to the extent of
eight feet. A beautiful five-light window was likewise inserted at the west-end, and a leaden roof, with open oak rafters, was substituted for the old slated roof. The two vestries were also enlarged, and have now oaken doors, on which is carved a representation of the Wise and Foolish Virgins, with traceried panels, designed by
Mr. Thorman and executed by Mr. G. W. Milburn, of York. The cost of these improvements, about I300, was defrayed by subscription. A neat brass plate has been placed at the east end of this aisle, commemorating the auspicious event. It reads: This Aisle was extended by the Parishioners fork the Service of God in the Sixtieth year of the reign of Queen Victoria, 1897. Near it has been fixed a very small and beautifully-incised 14th
century cross-slab; its measurement being 27 inches by 10 inches. The chance! is reported in 1623 to be in a state of “great decay.” It was subsequently amended, and it is now in excellent repair. The large east window of five lights, which occupies almost the whole width of the chancel, is filled with a very beautiful design in stained
glass. The subject of the window is the worship of Christ as King, while the background is made up of foliage work symbolical of Paradise. A brass beneath states that it was erected as a memorial to Anna Elizabeth, wife of Alfred Harris, of Oxton Hall. She died 18th December, 1876. This handsome window is the work of Morris & Co., and a framed description of it is kept in the vestry.

In the chancel there are also a number of monuments of interest, (i) a tablet inscribed to the memory of the Rev. Wm. Rhodes, B.D., who was 27 years curate of ‘I’adcaster, 18 years vicar, and 38 years master of the Grammar School. He died 3 Dec., 1829, aged 67 years. Also to Ann, his widow, who died 2nd March, 1848, aged 91; (2) a tablet dedicated to the memory of Honor Shann, wife of Thomas Shann, of Tadcaster, who died 3 June, 1814, in her 40th year; also of the above Thomas Shann, who died 9 Feb., 1852, in his 84th year ; ( an elegant brass plate placed to the memory of the Rev. Theophilus Clarke, B.A., curate of this parish 15 years, and vicar 22 years. He died 2 July, 1893, aged 82 years.
The east end of the south aisle, behind the choir screen, has been a chantry-chapel, dedicated, like the chapel in Roman Ilkley, to St. Nicholas. Upon the east wall is a curious old bracket, which no doubt at one time supported an image of this saint. The chantry was founded in 1399 by William Baker (?Barker*) and Agnes, his wife, and before the Dissolution it was held of the King by reason of the purchase of tile late Earl of Northumberland, whose ancestors had obtained it on the demise of the founders, temp. Henry VI. It was endowed with certain lands and tenements in Tadcaster in the holding of divers persons, one of the messuages being called the “ Sign of the George,” with nine acres of arable land, five acres of meadow, and one close called St. John’s Close, containing six acres of ground, with appurtenances, “within the town and fields of Tadcaster,” in the holding of Ottwell Warderope, paying by the year to the incumbent of the chantry 76s. 8d. The total amount of the endowment was £6. 16s. 8d., out of which was payable 18s. 6d., including a charge of 5s. 4d to the township of Tadcaster for the above- mentioned close, called St. John’s Close.

LIST OF CHAPLAINS OF St. NICH0LAS’s CHANTRY, TADCASTER CHURCH.
12th Feb.1400   Henry Tumor (presented by Win. Barker).
25 Aug., 1418 Joh. Martyll (resigned) (Agnes Barker).
9 Nov., 1424. Tho. Gaynesburgh (resigned), Eaden
23 Dec., 1437 Joh. Acastre (resigned), (Hon. B. of Northd.).
14 Nov., 1474  Job. Atkynson (resigned), (Idem)
26 Jan.,1482. John Esingwald (resigned for a chantry in York Cathedral), (Idem.)
1 Apr.1483.  Tho. Copley (resigned), (Idem).
27 May, 1486  Tho. Diconson (died), (Idem.)
24 May,1505.  Will. Warter, (died), (Idem).
6 June,1523. Rad. Norham (resigned), (Idem)
28 July,1534. Job. Heworth, (Assignees of Hen. E. of Northd.)

An altar and piscina were placed in this chantry, the piscina being
now in the wall of the south aisle. Prior to the re-erection of the
church in 1875-6, the floor of this chapel was covered with memorials
of the founder’s family, and these are now in the baptistery. Also
adjoining the chapel was a very rich carved oak pew, upon the frieze
of which was this inscription: “This pew belongeth to their Graces
the Duke and Duchess of Somerset.” The screen is now at the
west end of the church, and the escutcheon, which was fixed to the
wall at the east end of the pew, is now in the belfry. There were
also some fragments of ancient glass in one of the windows, which
have been placed in the new window near the south entrance. In
this chapel the east window is of stained glass, being a memorial of
the Rev. William Rhodes, B.D., who died 3 Dec., 1829, aged 67
years, and of his widow, Ann Rhodes, who died 2nd March, 1848,
aged 91 years; also of John Bromet, who died 9 March, 1850
aged 60, and of his widow, Elizabeth, daughter of the above William
and Ann Rhodes, who died 13th March, 1861, aged 73. Near this
window is a brass inscribed to the memory of Wm. Rhodes Bromet,
born 28th Nov., 1824, died 2 Aug., 1886. Another stained window
of three lights is dedicated to the memory of (i) Frederick H.
Ramsden, Captain Coldstream Guards, died 5 Nov., I854; (2)
Frederica Selina Ramsden, died 16th April, 1879; ( Rev. Henry
James Ramsden, M.A., died 8th December, 1862.
On the north side was the chapel of St. Catherine, founded by
John Twybell, 17th Edward IV. (1477), to the intent to say masses
for the soul of the founder and Monden, his wife, and all Christian
souls. It was endowed with lands and tenements to the yearly value
of £6 5s. 4d which was “put in feoffment to divers persons to find a priest.” The property was situated in Tadcaster and Ulleskelf, and there was also a barn belonging to the chantry, likewise two chambers, and a “mansion-house, with an orchard, of the said incumbents.” A sum of 10s. 10d. was payable out of the revenues
of the chantry, including 3s. to the Archbishop of York, and 4d for
suit of court at Spofforth, the founder being a socage tenant of the
Percies. In the respond of the north pier of this chapel is a piscina,
a sure indication that an altar once stood there. The original
window here doubtless also contained the coloured representation of
St. Catherine, with black-letter inscription, which is now in the
window near the south doorway. For many years, I am told, this
interesting old fragment was preserved in one of the windows of the
dining-room at the vicarage, and was restored to its present position
in the church at the re-erection in 1876. St. Catherine was the
patron of linen-weavers, an industry anciently of some consequence
in the district, and the portraiture in Tadcaster church shews the
wheel symbolical of the martyr-saint. It appears on the seal of
old Nun Monkton Priory, which lay some nine miles to the north-
east of Tadcaster,
At the west end of this north aisle (rebuilt in 1897) is a stained
window, placed to the memory of Adelaide, wife of Edward Archibald
Ramsden, who died 20th Nov., 1879. Next to it is another memorial
window to the Rev. B. Maddock, who was nearly forty years vicar
of this parish, and who died 16th December, 1871, in his 90th year.
Another is dedicated to the memory of William Smith; and a fourth
is a memorial of James Bradley, who died 16th Feb., 1877, aged 61.
There are eight memorial tablets to the families of Dawson, Blaydes,
Taylor, &c., restored to their former positions upon the north side of
this aisle. In the south aisle there are also two stained memorial windows; (i) to James Upton, of Tadcaster, who died 14th  Feb., 1844, and to Mary, his wife, who died 7 Jan., 1845; (2) to Thomas and Sarah Farrer, of Tadcaster, and Ann, their eldest daughter, erected by their surviving children, 1877. Near the south door is a handsome marble mural monument erected to the memory of John Potter, of Tadcaster, who died in 1758, and of Ann, his wife, who died in 1762; also to their sons John, and Sir Thomas Potter, the latter of Manchester, and of his eldest son, Sir John Potter, who died in 1858 and was then M.P. for Manchester, and had been Mayor of Manchester three years in succession.
Built into the west wall of this south aisle are various fragments
of sculptured stone-work, some Norman, together with an early
Calvary cross, having a plain incised shaft with wheel head enclosing four obovate arms; an interesting survival of the Celtic style in Norman times. In the tower there is also a fragment of a later cross, and in the same place is a quaintly-worded old brass plate, which was formerly on the south side of the chancel-arch. It reads
Elizabeth, the relict of Edward Marshall of this town, gentleman, and daughter of W. Rowe, of Higham Hill, in Essex, esq, who died March 9 1788, aged 83. She could boast excellence of parts, when young she was beautiful; vhen young did I say, she was so till she was seventy-nine, and she was highly good,
There is a very beautiful font placed on the ground-floor of the tower, which was presented by John C. F. Ramsden, Esq., in 1877, in memory of his father, Henry J. Ramsden, late of Oxton Hall. The old font is a plain octagon. The tower is well-lighted by a handsome coloured window of five lights, which was erected in 1878 by the inhabitants of Tadcaster, as a deserving tribute to the many benefits conferred on the town by the late Thos. Shann, Esq., and his sons, the Rev. Thomas Shann, George Shann, M.D., and Charles Shann, J.P. There are also here two marble memorial tablets to members of this family; (i) to the Rev. Thomas Shann, 7 years curate of Wighill and 16 years vicar of Hampsthwaite; born
26th J 1807; died 4 March, 1869 at Boston Spa; 2) to George Shann, M.D., born 18th May, 1809; died 3 Oct., 1882. A brass in the tower records that the clock was erected in the Jubilee of Her Majesty the Queen, in 1887. There are six excellent bells, which came from Skipton in Craven in 1760, when the parish church of that town got a new peal. They were re-cast by Dalton, of York, in 1784. In the belfry there is the following rhyming injunction to ringers
He that a bell doth overthrow
Shall two-pence pay before he go,
And he that rings with spur or hat,
Shall four-pence pay, be sure of that.
And he that doth these fines refuse,
No less than six-pence shall him excuse.
The Registers of the church commence with the year 1570, but there are some breaks, notably, from 1625 to 1652, which are wholly missing. The first recorded vicar or chaplain is one Dom. Nicholas, “parson of Tatecaster,” who witnessed the charter of Agnes de Percy, confirming the gift of the church to Sallay Abbey, ca. A.D. 1200. Following this comes the nuncupative vicar, Robert de Lelleia, mentioned in the Roman archives for 1218, previously quoted. Then I find mention of a “Dom. Petro de Thadcaster, capellano,” who was witness to a charter, dated 1254, of his nephew Thomas, son of William son of Gregory of Hunsingore, concerning lands, &c., in Hunsingore belonging to the Knights Templars. Torte supplies a catalogue of the vicars from 1290 to 1662, and it will be seen that there was a Roger de Hunsinghorne (sic), who was instituted vicar in 1291.
At the dissolution and attainder of Sallay Abbey the rectorial tithes fell to the Crown, and in 1542 they were granted out to Sir Arthur Darcy, Kt., the same fine including the manors of Leeds and Holbeck (parcel of the Duchy of Lancaster), and other properties. The rectory of Tadcaster was next farmed by the family of Hungate, of Saxton, and in the reign of James I., Francis Wood, of Tadcaster, gent., was lessee of the rectory. Subsequently the Duke of Somerset became possessed of the advowson, through whom it descended to the Earls of Egremont, and in the middle of the igth century it came to the first Lord Leconfield, as related in the history of the manor.
LIST  OF VICARS OF TADCASTER.
Date of Inst.         Name of Vicar            Patron.                   How vacated.
28 May, 1290. .Roger de Saxton Abbot and Convent of Sallay       Resig.
24 Dec. 1291. . Roger de Hunsinghorne    Do.
22 April, 1317.. Gaif. de Hoveton Do.
• Joh. de Patrington Do.    . . Resig. for the vicar-age of Wistow
15 Nov., 1341. .Will de Shireburn Do.
• .Joh. de Pathorne Do.    . . Died
23 Dec., 1349 .Ric. de Sourby •.    Do.    ..
18 Jan., 1366. . Will de Kaberry          Do.
• . Will de Pulhowe Do.    . . Resig. for the church of Marton
6 Sept., 1381. .Ric. Rae de Blaktoft    Do.
• . Tho. de Popilton Do.    . . Resig. for the church of Berwyk
4 Feb., 1392.. Rog. de Pykering ..    Do.
4 June, 1394. . Robt. Bramley Do.    . . Died
23 Feb., 1411. .Joh. Montford Do,    . .Resig. for the church of Adel
7th Nov., 1426. .Will. Catelyn, L.B    Do.    • . Resig. for the church of Gerford
14 May, 1434.. Robert Bedale Do.    . . Resig.
23 Jan., 1442. .Joh. Raper Do.
Joh. de Redeburne •    Do.    . . Died

Date of Inst.    Name of Vicar.     Patron      How Vacated
              9 May, 1467.   Will Ricroft        Do.         Died                           
22 Aug., 1467.. Ric. Lancaster    Do.   Resigned
52 June, 1469. .Will Clyveland, MA.   Do.    Died
23 Dec., 1504. Will Radclyff     Do.       Died
23 Feb., 1527. .Tho. Parke  Henry Earl of Northumberland 
14 Sept., 1557. .Tho. Swayne  Phillip & Mary

Edw. Stampe                                 Died
6 Aug., 1575.. Roger Stowyng  Henry Earl of Northumberland      Died
Aug., 1609. .Henry Grene, M.A.                        Resigned

31 Dec., 1613 .Tho. Clyfton, MA.     Do.                             
             Will Toyer                          Died
19 Nov., 1660. .Joh. Holte   Algernon Earl of Northumberland            
Ric. Crossdale..               Do          Died
John Greenfield    Duke of Somerset    Died 1702
— Gyrling          Do
— Simcoe    Earl of Thomond   Died in 1704
1734. .John Wickens, D.D.       Do             Died in 1744

One might lingerlong in that sacred “God’s acre,” where through unnumbered centuries the fathers of the old town and parish have found their last resting-place. Many of the head-stones unfortunately have been carved from friable local limestone, and their inscriptions are now in many instances illegible. One such memorial of a bygone worthy formerly stood near the church porch. Miss Ann Bellhouse, daughter of a former master of the adjoining Grammar School, tells me that she well remembers the quaint and interesting lines that appeared on this old sexton’s tomb. They were as follows:
Beneath this Stone lies Thomas Wood,
Who Sexton here hath been,
And without tears, sixty-six years,
That awful trade bath seen.
At last grim Death did him assail,
And thus to him did say:
Forsake thy Trade, lay down thy Spade,
Make haste and come away!
Without reply, or asking why,
The summons he obeyed,
And aged eighty-eight resigned
His shuttle and his spade.
The parish, in gratitude for his long services,
Erected this stone at his death in 1804.
He was by trade a weaver, and few sextons, long-lived as those ancient patriarchs of the churchyard usually have been, can compare with him in length of service. Old Scarlett, who died at the wonderful age of 98, and was sexton at Peterborough Cathedral, and where his effigy and epitaph may be seen, may possibly be the only rival of our venerable Tadcaster sexton.
About fifty years ago the churchyard was enlarged and enclosed with a wall and iron palisades, and a substantial entrance-gate was erected. Before that time part of the old burial-yard was open. The cost of these improvements was about £350.

TADCASTER OLD FAMILIES.

FOLLOWING the famous Norman record of the local possessions of the great house of Percy, we have to
mention of a family of some consequence who took their name from the town. This was the family of
Tadcaster. In 1295 a Peter de Tadcaster occurs in an action against Walter de Wessington and other members of the same family for trespass. A William de Tadcaster, shipman, was a freeman of the city of York in 1310. In 1321 William, son of John de Tadcaster, of Bubwith, gave 15 acres in Gunby to Selby Abbey. There does not appear to be any evidence of the family having at any time held lands in Tadcaster; they were no doubt originally vassals of the Percies, some of whom would appear to have settled at a subsequent period on the Percies’ estates in Northumberland. In the Hexham Court Rolls for 1547 there occurs among the copy- holders in that manor the name of Gilbert de Tadcaster, who with two others, holds two tenements called Netherley, Spetell and Watthouse. The family-name has long been extinct at Tadcaster, but the town gave title in 1714 to Henry O’Brien, the last Earl of Thomond, in Ireland, who was created Baron and Viscount Tadcaster. He died in 1742, without issue, when the title became extinct. He was succeeded in his estates by his nephew, Percy, youngest son of Sir Wm. Wyndham, by Catherine, his wife, second daughter of Charles, sixth Duke of Somerset, and who in 1756 was created Earl of Thomond, hut dying unmarried in 1772, the Earldom expired. The Barony of Tadcaster was again conferred by patent, 3 July, 1826, on William, second Marquis of Thomond, but he died without male issue, 2 August, 1846, when the dignity expired, but his Irish honours devolved upon his brother, James, third Marquis of Thomond, who dying without issue in 1855, the Marquisate also became extinct.
Most of the old families of Tadcaster took their patronyms from the places whence they sprung, or from the occupations they or their ancestors had followed. In the time of Edward III. we have such names at Tadcaster as Thomas of the Brewhouse, Richard of the Brewhouse, William the Carter, Robert the miller, William son of the smith, Thomas the Chapman of Sutton, William the Chapman of Oxton, Benedicto de Grymeston, &c. In 1378 we have the names of two Tadcaster merchants, Wm. Dryffeld and Wm. Hardy, each of whom paid 2S. to King Richard’s war-tax, and they were the highest taxed in the town.* Before this time the Normanvilles appear to have settled at Tadcaster. I have already mehtioned them in the Lay Subsidies of Edward III. They were of an old Yorkshire family, long seated at Kilnwick Percy and Little Haughton. John Normanville lived at Smaws Hall, and made his will 13th Oct., 1408, desiring his body to be interred in the church of the Blessed Mary at Tadcaster, nigh unto the tomb of Brian Normanville, his father. The family were benefactors to Appleton Nunnery. The Hardys were also important folks at Tadcaster in the 13th and 14th centuries. One Robert Hardy, master carpenter, was buried in the middle of the nave of Tadcaster church in 1428.
The Barkers were also settled at Tadcaster at an early period. Thoma’ le Barker of Tadcaster, occurs in the Lay Subsidies of Edward III., and Wm. Barker and his wife were hostilers in Tadcaster in 1378. It was William Barker and his wife, Agnes, who founded the chantry of St. Nicholas in Tadcaster church in 1399. He died in 1403+ and the Fabric Rolls of York Minster record a payment by his widow in 1415 of 2s 11 1/2d to the Dean and Chapter for one tenement in Tadcaster. The family continued amongst the most prominent in the town for several centuries. The following hitherto unpublished will is of one John Barker, of Tadcaster, dated 7 Nov., 1680:
WILL OF JOHN BARKER, OF TADCASTER, 1680.
In the name of God Amen. I John Barker of Tadcaster in the County of York husbandman being sick and weake of body but in perfect memory blessed be God revoakeing all former wills and deedes doe hereby make & ordaine this my last will and testament in manner and forme as followeth first I give and bequeath my soule into the handes of Jesus Christ my onely Saviour and Redeemer and my body to be buried in the parish Church yeard of Tadcaster aforesaid. Item I give and bequeath unto my sister Isabell Rawson ten shillings a yeare to be paid her yearly and every yeare dureing her life out of the rent of my house in the back lame in Tadcaster aforesaid. Item. I give unto Anne and Mary daughters of my aforesaid (sister) Isabell Rawson either of them twelve pound. Item. I give unto George Barker sonne of my sister Mary Barker twelve pound. Item. I give unto Grace Parkinson five shillings. Item. I give unto Francis Saintor twenty shillings which he oweth me upon bond. I give and bequeath unto my sister Jane Barker one Cottage house or tenement in Tadcaster aforesaid now in the tenure and occupation of Richard Young with all the premises and appurtenances whatsoever thereunto belonging and to her heires & assignes for ever onely paying ten shillings a yeare to my sister Isabell as before bequeathed. Item. All the rest of goods and Chattels moveable and unmoveable undisposed of my debts and funerall expenses discharged I give and bequeath unto my said sister Jane Barker and doe make he full and sole executrix of this my last will and testament. Witnesse my hand and seale the seaventh day of November in the 3 yeare of his ma'ties Raigne anno dom 1680 witnesse hereof John Barker his X Rob Ruddall his X Grace Parkinson her X Francis Saintor.**

* For list of Tadcaster taxpayers at this time see Yorks. Arched Jl., vol. vi., p. 142.
+ See also Hunter’s Hallamshire, vol. ii., page 127.
See York Wills, Surf ees Soc., vol. iv , page 327
**The family of Francis Saintor mentioned in the will most likely gave name to the thoroughfare known as Senter Lane.

The testator would seem to have been piously attached to the “murdered monarch,” Charles I.; it is noteworthy he dates his will in accordance with the royal practice, “ in the 3 yeare of his ma’ties Raigne, anno dom’ 1680.” These Tadcaster Barkers were probably connected with the York and Otley family, from whom descends the present Viscount Halifax. Thomas Barker, Esq., of Otley, studied the law at Lincolns Inn, in the time of Charles II. He afterwards settled at York, where he practised successfully until his death in 1724.
The Tukes and Battys were other old families in the district. The Tukes are well known for their many charitable works in connection with the Society of Friends. A John Tuk, taverner, was a freeman of York in 1323. The chief seat of the family was, however, at Kelham, near Newark, where, as well as at many other places in the county of Notts., they had held land from the time of Richard I. to that of Henry VI. A tabulated lineage of the family is given in Foster’s North and East Riding (Yorkshire) Pedigrees; likewise another of the Tukes of Thorner, near Leeds, and also of Stillingfleet, where they were resident in 1374; also one beginning with a Robert Tuke of Scotton, near Knaresborough, temp. Elizabeth, from whom descend the Darlington and Bradford Tukes. The annexed original pedigree has been kindly supplied by Mr. William Murray Tuke, of Saffron Walden.

Perhaps the oldest local family continuously resident in Tadcaster is that of Marshall, who as deriving their patronym from the ancient and important vocation of smiths and forgemen, have been settled in the neighbourhood from near the time of the Norman Conquest. William Marshall, marschall, occurs in the Tadcaster Poll Tax for 1378. The family supplied many of the implements and iron-work required in the construction of York Minster, about this time. There are some late memorials of this family in the church.’ The Hartleys another old Tadcaster family, intermarried with the Marshalls, and were, in conjunction with the Backhouses, the real founders of the brewing trade in Tadcaster.# Thomas, son of John Hartley, inn keeper, of Tadcaster, married (i) Jane Colbeck, who died in 1742, and (2) Margaret, daughter of Edward Marshall, gent., of Tadcaster. By the latter marriage, which was celebrated in York Minster, April 21st, 1743, there was an only child, Edward Marshall Hartley, born in 1744. John Hartley, innkeeper, brother of the above Thomas, died at Tadcaster in 1804, aged 93. He left a family of sons and daughters; two of the sons, Stephen and Thomas, joined the old brewing business in Tadcaster, and grew very rich. Thomas, who died in 1808, was Lord Mayor of York in 1789 and 1803, and he was Sheriff of York in 1791-2. His son held the same office in 1810-11.
The Fosters, too, were another respectable old stock, seated in the district in early times. They held land at Tadcaster in the time of Queen Elizabeth. Robert Foster, gent., of Tadcaster, was buried in the church there in 1567. He was living at Smaws, near Tadcaster, which estate he had purchased from the Normanvilles in 1560, and he also bought a messuage and land at Oxton the year before he died+ By his will he left £5 “towardes the mending of the cawsey and hyeway from my house in Tadcaster unto Bowebrigge.” When the family left Smaws I have not learnt, but the following indenture, dated 1658, shews they were living there at that time.
SALE BY THE FOSTER FAMILY OF A COTTAGE AND PREMISES
IN TADCASTER, 1658.
This Indenture made the twelfth day of March in the year of our Lord God 1658, Between Thomas Foster of Smaws in the County of York gent. and Robert Foster sone and heire apparent of the same Thomas Foster on the one ptie. and John Barker of Tadcaster in the County of York on ye other ptie. witnesseth that the said Thomas F. and Robert F. for & in consideratn. of the some of nine pounds of good & lawful money of England to them in hand paid by ye said John Barker his heirs . . . by these present have granted sold . . and
• do sell . . . unto ye said John Barker all that cottage or tenement situate in Tadcaster in one Lame comonly called ye backe Layne comonly called
Flockton Cottage & now in ye tenure & occupn. of ye said Jn. Barker or his assignes And all and every the houses orchards gardens and waiesides thereunto belonginge . . . and all deeds writings wh. touch or concerne the said premises . to be made at the coste . of the said John Barker his heirs . . To have & to hold the said cottage . . to the onely proper use & behoofe of the said J. B. his heirs & assignes or ever Soe the said Thomas Foster Elizabeth his wife and the said Robert Foster be not compelled to travell further than the city of York or Castell of ye same for doeing & executing of the same In witnesse wherof ye above said
• . have sette ther hands and seales the day and yeare ffrst above written
Tno. FOSTER. ROBERT FOSTER.
(seal)
(seal)

* See also page 289 (Dawson Charity).
# William Backhouse kept the White Horse inn, about 1820—1830, and he had about a dozen men employed in the yard for posting and like purposes. This inn was the principal coaching-house.
+See also Surtees Soc., vol. 41, page 32.

The Morleys of Tadcaster and York were no doubt of the same stock as the Morleys of Wennington in Lonsdale, and Beamsley in Upper Wharfedale, as both families bore the same arms: sable, a leopard’s face, or, jessant-de-lis, argent, and the Newton-on-Ouse family quartered (1665-6) gules, a fess between three catherine wheels, argent,* (Streete), though in the earlier Visitation Morley bore sable, three catherine wheels, or. The first recorded of this family is William de Wennington, lord of Wennington near Lancaster, about A.D. 1260. A descendant of this early landowner was Francis Morley, born at Wennington in 1588, and he married Cassandra, daughter and co-heiress of Josias Lambert, Esq., of Calton-in-Craven,# and cousin to the celebrated John Lambert, Commander of the Parliamentary Forces in the great Civil War. His grandson Josias Morley, settled at Scale House, Rilstone** which in the 17th century became an important centre and scene of one of the early General Meetings of the newly-formed Society of Friends. This Josias Morley was born in 1651 and purchased the manors of Beamsley and Clapham, Co. York. He died in 1731, aged 8o. Robert Morley, of Tadcaster, also took an active part in the religious revival in the middle of the 18th century, and I have already mentioned the family’s probable connection with the “Ark” or “Morley Hall,” in Tadcaster, which was licensed for a Dissenters’ preaching-place in 1672. Robert Morley of Newton-upon-Ouse, was a famous barrister in his day, and died in 1651 leaving four children; the eldest son, James, being aged 38 when the family lineage was recorded by the Heralds in

* See Dodson of KIRKBY OVERBLOW.
# See my Craven Highlands (1892), page 314. **See Upper Wharfedale (1900), page 341.

1665. Robert Morley and Robert \Vhite, of Tadcaster, were among the score Wharfedale gentlemen who were appointed in 1657 under-conservators of the Wharfe for the protection of the fishing. At this time the Taylors were people of some standing in the town, and one John Taylor, was with the exception of Sir Walter Vavasour of Hazlewood, the only landed person in the neighbourhood of Tadcaster, who was in arms against the Parliament in the great Civil War. He had to compound for his estates, but prayed to he freed from sequestrations as his whole property was declared to be not worth £200. Some of this family, in the next century, were well-to-do provision merchants in Tadcaster, and supplied groceries to lesser shops for many miles round.
Another family of old standing in the district, was the Bellhouses, Bellbuses, or Bellars, as variously spelled. A William Bellars was a freeman of York in 1413. In the Recusant Roll of 35th Elizabeth (1592), John Bellhouse and Jenetta, his wife, of Saxton, appear along with William Bellhouse of the same place, among those who were fined for non-attendance at the Parish Church. The family is believed to derive its patronym from Bellhouse, in Essex, but a branch of the family has been long settled in Yorkshire. A John de Belhous was rector of Whiston, near Rotherham, from 1316 to 1318. Francis Bellhouse was the first Town Clerk of Leeds under the charter of incorporation, granted to that town by Charles I. in 1626. The accompanying descents are derived from a larger pedigree I have compiled of this family, and shew various connections of the Woods of Tadcaster, together with the ancestors of the Rev. Wm. Cocker Bellhouse, who was educated at the Leeds Grammar School and was for more than forty years Head Master of the Tadcaster Grammar School. The Woods, I may add, were a very respectable family, settled in Tadcaster before the Reformation. They were lay proprietors of the rectory early in the 17th century
Many other old Tadcaster families, such as the Chapmans, Carters, Hillams, Aldersleys of Paper Mill Bar, Milners, Ryders, Siddells, &c., might be noticed at more or less length. Sarah Siddell, of Tadcaster, who died in 1799, married Christopher Moorhouse, surgeon, of Keighley, who inherited considerable property on the death in 1780 of his brother, John Moorhouse, a wealthy lawyer. According to the Marriage Bonds of the Archbishop of York, 15th Nov., 1750, he is described as of Keighley, gent., bachelor, licensed to be married at Hunslet to Susanna Fenton, of Hunslet, spinster, then aged 23. He had an only son, Thomas, born 1752,

who married Mercy Fenton, and their only son, Fenton Moorhouse, died in 1809, leaving an only son, Thomas, who died an infant in 1809. Their extensive properties about Keighley and Utley by some means got into the hands of the Cravens, of Keighley, on the death of Stephen Moorhouse, who died an imbecile, without issue, at Tadcaster, in 1825, aged 75.
Other families of more recent connection with the parish are the Potters, Shanns, Smiths (of brewing fame), Bromets, Harrises, Varleys, &c. The last-named purchased the manor. The Potters have long been seated about York and in the Forest of Knaresbro’, and one Thomas Potter was a freeman and chamberlain of York in
1346-7. In recent times some of the family settled at Wingate Hill, near Tadcaster, and from them descend Sir Thomas Potter, of Manchester, and his son, Sir John Potter, M.P. for Manchester, who died in 1858. There was a John Potter, a native of Wakefield, born 1664, who became Archbishop of Canterbury, and died in 1747, but whether connected with this family I am unable to say. An account of the Manchester Potters will be found in Mr. H. R. Fox-Bourne’s English Merchants. The name of Shann is as a “household word” in Tadcaster, and I have already referred to the well-deserved tribute to this family in the church. They had a freehold near Tadcaster Bridge in 1755, and were sometime owners of the great tithes of Tadcaster. The Bromets are now among the principal landowners at Tadcaster, and in various capacities members of the family fill useful positions in the town. Mr. John Addinell Bromet is Clerk to the Rural District Council, and he has also been Clerk to the Board of Guardians for the long period of forty years.
The town does not appear to have produced many persons specially distinguished in the arts or sciences. But one may be mentioned, the celebrated Professor of Music in the University of Cambridge, Dr. Charles Hague, who was born here in 1769, and died in 1821. His eldest daughter, Harriet, also an accomplished pianist, died in 1816, aged 23. On page 160 of my Upper Wharfedale, I refer to “the Wharfedale poet, Charles Kirby,” about whom it is stated nothing is known. I gather, however, that he was a native of Tadcaster, and for many years, about 1840—50, lived with his parents in a cottage on the west side of the churchyard, where now stands the Parish Room. He afterwards removed to Leeds, and in addition to his Harp of Wharfedale (now a scarce little book) he wrote and published in 1874 a similar volume of verse, entitled Wayside Flowers, which was dedicated to the then Mayor of Leeds, H. Rowland Marsden, Esq.

THE TOWN, TRADE, AND OLD INNS OF TADCASTER.
CHAPTER VII.

AS at present constituted the parish of Tadcaster includes
Tadcaster West, Stutton-with-Hazlewood, Tadcaster
East, and Oxton. West Tadcaster and Stutton are in  the Parliamentary Division of Barkston Ash, while
Tadcaster East and Oxton lie within the Ainsty of York and Parliamentary Division of Thirsk and Malton. The centre of the Bridge over Wharfe forms the boundary of the two divisions.
This large and massive stone bridge, which has consumed, it is said, more material in its construction than any other bridge in the county, consists of nine arches, and was originally built in 1698-9. It was subsequently, through the increase of coaching traffic, widened, as appears by the difference of the masonry under the arches. Some early references to the bridge, which was originally of timber, have already been given. Subsequent to the Reformation the bridge of stone was maintained in repair, the east half by the Ainsty and the west half by the Riding. The expenses of the rebuilding at the end of the 17th century were raised by a general tax of 3d in the pound, laid by Act of Parliament on all lands, &c., within the city and Ainsty of York and the West Riding. John Etty, of York, ancestor no doubt of the celebrated painter, was appointed superintendent of the work, and at the Pontefract Sessions, held in April, 1699, the bill of costs was certified amounting to £1124. It is doubtless the same John Etty whom I find commemorated in All Saints’ Church, North Street, York
To JOHN ETTY, Carpenter, who died Jan. 28th, 1709, aged 75.
His Art was great, his Industry no less,
What one projected, th’other brought to pass.
Whether the Cockshott family had a hand in building any previous bridge here, there are apparently no records to prove, but at least one local member of the family had a reputation for this kind of work. When Barden Bridge was swept down by the flood of 1674, Thomas Cockshott, of Tadcaster, agreed to rebuild it for
£66o. There seems to have been some obstacles to the speedy
undertaking of this work, and whether Cockshott actually rebuilt
this bridge is not very clear. The Cockshotts are an old family
in the neighbourhood of York.
After the rebuilding of the Bridge extensive structural alterations appear to have taken place in the town, and its old aspects changed. Doubtless many of the antique half-timber dwellings and old thatches surrounding the Market Place would be swept away and the existing buildings erected on the site. There is every appearance that the original Market Place was a large open square, extending some fifty yards northwards from Bridge Street along Kirkgate, and the modern character of the houses on this side of Bridge Street fully confirms this. About half-way between the bottom of Kirkgate and the Bridge, there is a narrow passage on the north side of Bridge Street which runs parallel with Kirkgate about the breadth of four houses or shops, and then becoming wider, turns at a sharp angle to the left and comes out into Kirkgate, nearly opposite the ancient tenement known as the Ark. All the buildings below there on the west side of Kirkgate to Bridge Street are also of modern date, and the space is still kept open opposite Askey’s shop. This was the ancient Market Place where the markets were held weekly by charter mentioned on page 19. Whether the old stone base now standing in Westgate at a place called The Cross, is part of the original market-cross no one now knows. But the old stone cross was certainly existing little more than a century ago, and is referred to in a scarce little book printed at Wakefield in 1782. Some lines in rhyme, by “J. Fretwell, mercer, Tadcaster,” appear in the form of a Letter from the Cross at Wingate Hill to the Cross at Tadcaster, and begin as follows

Dear Cousin Cross, my near relation,
I’m sorry for thy situation;
‘Mongst brawling, fighting, yelping, clamouring,
And Vulcans at their horse-shoes hammering;
With “haave,’ gee-up” and wo-a-aa,” stop,
But holy water not a drop!
Thy steps heap’t up with whins and sticks,
And scaling-rods and broken bricks,
Thy bonfires, too, of stolen wood,
Disturb me and the neighbourhood.
And so on for more than a half-a-hundred lines in like refrain. The old Gunpowder Plot anniversaries would appear to have been celebrated in the Market Place, near this old Cross. This venerable relic I find alluded to as far back as the time of Henry III. In an inquisition, dated 1260, of the properties of William de Kyme, of Newton Kyme, &c., one of the jurors was “Thoma’ ad Crucem” (Thomas at the Cross), of Tadcaster, shewing that a cross existed even before the markets were established by charter in I270.*
In the height of the coaching days, about 182o—3o, there were no fewer than 24 registered inns and posting-houses in the town, and some of these are or were of high antiquity. The old Falcon,+  the most ancient building now remaining in Tadcaster. is a quaint pre Reformation structure, having its lower story built of stone while the upper portion is of timber and plaster. The antique wooden corbels projecting from the roof in front of the house are curiously carved with a male and female head. I give a view of this interesting old building. It is often irreverently called “ Noah’s Ark “ or the “Ark,” but formerly, when Mr. England owned it, he always spoke of it as “Morley Hall,” probably because the old Independents assembled here when Robert Morley had his house in Tadcaster licensed for public worship in 1672.
Another pre-Reformation inn was the George, which is probably now represented by the George and Dragon, opposite the Post Office. In one of the windows of this inn there is preserved a piece of old painted glass bearing a Tudor rose and a representation of cupids, &c., while below are the initials and date, “W. K., 1592.” This seems to be the “syne of the George” n in 1548 as belonging to the chantry of St. Nicholas in the Parish Church, previously mentioned.
* See observations on Market, Wayside, Weeping and Corpse Crosses, in my Nidderdale, pages 365-70.
+ This sign probably came into existence after the Wars of the Roses, the
falcon and fetterlock being a Yorkist badge. Edward IV., who had the falcon
with the lock closed, ordered his son Richard to bear it with the lock open.

The White Hart is another sign of uncertain antiquity at Tadcaster, but there can be little doubt that it, too, was existing before the Reformation. The White Hart was the favourite badge of Richard II., whose reputed mysterious end at Pontefract I have before alluded to. The sign is one of the oldest recorded in England, and its existence may be traced back to the days of ancient Rome. The legend of the White Hart, collared with gold, appertains to several districts in England and on the Continent. One is supposed to have been caught at Rothwell Haigh, an old park of the Lacies, about a dozen miles to the south-west of Tadcaster. I find the Hart at Tadcaster mentioned as apparently an old patrimony in the time of Queen

Elizabeth. In some unpublished Proceedings in Chancery it is recorded that Jane Bailey was seized in fee of “a messuage called the Hart in Tadcaster,” and other tenements there, and after her decease the premises came to one Francis Bailey, son and heir of the said Jane. But the deeds concerning the-same having come casually into the hands of one Thomas Belbroke, yeoman, he in 1569-70 had entered into the premises and refused to give them up. Litigation followed, and Thomas Bilbrough came forward and affirmed that one-third of the “ Hart” with the other premises which were divided, was rightfully possessed by Robert Blancherde, gent., who by his
deed enfeoffed the defendant thereof. And another third part the said defendant holds at will of one Leonard Foster, to whom the inheritance belongs, and the residue Robert Hudleese and his wife were seized of, and about St. Martin’s Day two years since demised the same to defendant for a term of years now enduring. How the matter ended is not stated, but Francis Bailey wholly repudiated the statements of the defendant.
As five innkeepers are mentioned in Tadcaster in 1378, it is more
than likely that the White Hart was one of the signs then in being.
But whether we are to refer the existence of this or any other
Tadcaster inn to the time when the Romans ruled here, as above
suggested, is highly problematical. It is, however, deserving of record
that a conspicuously Roman inn custom prevailed in the neighbour
hood of Tadcaster, at any rate down to the 17th century. This was
the hanging out of a bush or garlanded “ale-pole” over a house door
to indicate the sale of meat and drink; or the bush might be painted
or cut in wood and so portrayed above the entrance, as is recorded
to have been found in Rome, and also among the ruins of Pompeii.
Chaucer, writing in the 14th century, says:
A garlond hadde he sette upon his hede,
As gret as it were for an alestake.
I have mentioned this usage in Wharfedale elsewh but the following is the first record I have met with of its actual occurrence upon a Roman highway in Yorkshire. The reference to it will be found in the Depositions from York Castle wherein one Abraham Ibbitson, of Leeds, was charged in 1674-5 with feloniously taking away two geldings belonging to Wm. Hutchinson, Esq., and also one gelding the property of Joseph Ibbitson. gent. It appears that
a man named Bancroft persuaded him to turn highwayman, and they went together to a certain ale-house at Street Houses, “ in the way betwixt Tadcaster and York, where there was a bush as a signe.”
Although it is not distinctly stated that a green emblem was hung
out in front of the door, yet the wording of the indictment does not lead us to believe anything to the contrary. It does not say that the inn wa called the Sign of the Bush, but that a bush was used as a sign. This Roman bush, which was generally of ivy, no doubt originated the present name of the inn, the Wild Man. Nicholls in his Progresses of Queen Elizabeth (vol. i., page 494), says that when Queen Elizabeth was at Kenilworth Castle in 1574, “on the x. of Julee met her in the Forest as she came from hunting one clad like a savage man all in ivie.” who addressed Her Majesty in a neat speech. The man “clad like a savage in ivy,” was intended to typify the Roman Bacchus, to whom the ever-green ivy-plant was dedicated, hence our inn signs of the Bush and Wild Man are synonymous.
After the Wars of the Roses Henry Tudor visited Tadcaster, and perhaps left us the sign of the Rose and Crown as a consequence of that visit. It was the royal badge of the Tudors. The inn, an old coaching-house, previously referred to, is not now existing. The Roebuch was another good old inn, and it was here that Warburton, the antiquary, lodged during his Yorkshire tour in 1718. Other well-known hostelries were the Angel and White Horse, the latter sign being almost invariably associated with coaching in our old Yorkshire towns, and perhaps elsewhere. The White Horse at Tadcaster, which was the head posting-house in the town, has lost its famous sign, the inn having been transformed into the Londesborough Hotel, now the principal open house in the town.
Besides the White Horse and Rose and Crown there were other coaching-houses in Tadcaster, notably the Angel and White Swan. The latter was kept for many years by the late Mr. Jos. Middleton, who entered upon the premises during that busy era when licensed houses were kept open all night. Few Englishmen have been able to boast that they have lived in five reigns in this country. Mr. Middleton, however, claimed that distinction. He was born in 1815, a fortnight before the famous battle of Waterloo, and died at Wetherby Feb. 13th 1901, having therefore lived in the reigns of George III George IV., William IV., Victoria, and Edward VII. He was always very temperate in his habits, and, I am told, never smoked an ounce of tobacco in his life. The old coaching-houses needed steady managing men, who knew the wants of their customers, and were prompt and active in emergency. None of the old school of landlords possessed these qualities more than the late Mr. Matthew Kidd, who was born at the Angel in 1815, the same year as Mr. Middleton, and lived through the busiest era of Tadcaster coaching. Afterwards he became landlord of the Londesborough and remained there until about 1879, when he retired into private life. He was well-known to commercial travellers and others, almost through out the country, and was greatly respected, having filled various public offices, and for many years he had officiated as a sidesman at the Parish Church. Many another well deserved tribute might be penned about similar worthies of the old coaching times did space permit.

The old Post Office at Tadcaster, the house afterwards occupied by Dr. Ireland, was, says Mr. Bradley, almost as important as any of the coaching inns in the town, and there were large stables connected with the place. In 1786 the mails began to be transmitted by coach; before that time they were conveyed by mounted carriers to and from Tadcaster. The Post Office was on the east side of the Bridge, and the cost of letters from Tadcaster to Bradford or Doncaster, in 1820, was 6d. to Halifax the postage was 7d., and to Leeds 4d.
Tadcaster is a very old post-town, though it would not appear to have had a registered post office before the time of Charles I., when regular communication was established between London and York. The “running-post,” between London and Edinburgh, was inaugurated in 1635, but it was not until the accession of Charles II. that the General Post Office was established by Act of Parliament ( The earliest distinct reference to the Tadcaster Post Office I have met with, is in a letter of Robert Fairfax, dated Feb. 2 1685, and addressed to “My Honoured Mother, Mrs. Katherine Fairfax, at Newton, near Tadcaster, to be left with the Post Master of Tadcaster.’*
The first English postmaster, of whom there is any particular account, is one Sir Brian Tuke, but whether h is of the York and Tadcaster family I do not know, He is described in 1533 as
Magistex Nunciorum, Cursorurn, sive Postarurn ; “ though in the 13th century there are entries in the wardrobe accounts of the English sovereigns, of payments to royal messengers for conveying letters and packages to various parts of England. In the Rolls of the Exchequer for 7 Edward III. (1313), there is a record of a messenger who was despatched from Berwick to London, and performed the journey in nine days. He travelled by way of Newcastle, Darlington, and Poundsborough (sic), to Wetherby; thence to Rouford, Leicester, Northampton, and Dunstable. In 1319 the sum of 2050 marks was conveyed from London to York; ten days being occupied in the journey from Huntingdon to York. From London to Huntingdon eight horsemen acted as guard, but on reaching the town of “Robin
Hood,” or “Robert ye bolde Erie of Huntingdon,” the guard to York, through Doncaster and Tadcaster, was increased to eleven horsemen and twelve able archers on foot, all armed and equipped with tipped arrows. But for five or six miles out of Huntingdon a special guard of six score men was delegated to accompany the bearers of the royal treasure, with the object of overawing the desperate outlaws in those parts from following in pursuit. The whole journey was apparently performed without any serious encounter. Safe lodgings on journeys of this kind must have been a source of concern, hut no doubt two men, in turns, would act as watch through the night, while the others snored heedlessly in tavern or manor- house.
I have already mentioned the ancient Tadcaster inns. There were also two brew-houses in 1341 evidently doing a good business. One of them paid 8d. to the imperial taxes in that year, and the other 4d In some places the lord of the manor at this period imposed a fine or charge of 4d or 6d. upon every brewing of ale, according to its strength, but I cannot find that the Tadcaster brewers were ever subject to such a toll. At Tadcaster, however, the lord had mulcture of corn and furnage or toll on the bread obliged to be baked at the manorial oven.
There were also many kinds of artificers, at an early period, flourishing in the town. The weaving, fulling, and dyeing of woollen cloth was carried on in the town in the 14th century, as also at other places in Lower Wharfedale, particularly at Wetherby. There was usually in the principal towns a fulling-mill and a corn-mill, some times together or they might be a little distance apart. The Tadcaster mills are mentioned in 1245. Tallow-chandling was also an old local industry, which continued to flourish here down to the introduction of gas. The Mountain family were widely-known tallow-chandlers in Tadcaster in the middle of the 18th century. There were also other minor industries, such as the hat and cap trade, which for many years was carried on here by the families of Bean and Crossley, down to about the middle of the century just closed. At the same time a good many straw hats and bonnets were made in the town. The printing trade was also introduced here in 1855 and is still carried on. Bnt in an agricultural district there is little inducement to develope this industry, and the local newspaper, the Tadcaster News, has long been printed at Wetherby.

Of course the inhabitants have mostly lived by agriculture, and the weekly (Wednesday) markets at Tadcaster, for the sale of agricultural produce, at one time attracted large gatherings from the surrounding districts. About 1850 an attempt was made to revive the market, and the day was changed to Monday, but it did not continue very long. A fortnightly fair was established for all kinds of cattle, on alternate Mondays, and this is still kept up and is well attended.
With the passing of the coaching-days Tadcaster began to decline. One by one, old inns that once did a thriving business, had to close their doors, and many houses were without tenants. A great change came over the place, and for a time the town wore a slumberous and lethargic aspect that boded ill for the future. The last forty years, however, have witnessed a resnscitation of life and activity, and the old town of Roman and medi England appears again to be as flourishing as ever. Since the opening, on August 10th, 1847, of the North Eastern Company’s railway from Church Fenton through Tadcaster to Spofforth,” and between Leeds and Wetherby (opened May 1st, 1876), connecting Tadcaster with all the main arteries of railway traffic, the town has become accessible from every direction, and there is no reason why it should not have a very prosperous future.
But the chief incentive to local prosperity has been in the marked revival in the brewing and malting trades, for which Tadcaster was, as I have shown, famous in the Middle Ages. There are now four or five extensive breweries in the town, besides several malt-kilns and a large corn-mill. Though Messrs. Backhouse and Hartley had established a brewery in Tadcaster so long ago as 1758, it was not until the representatives of that firm disposed of the business, in 1847, to the late Mr. John Smith, that any headway was made in developing this great local industry. When Mr. John Smith died in 1879, he left the brewery to his brother William, who died in 1886. The business had then wonderfully developed, and has done so still more under the capable management of his two nephews, Messrs. Herbert H. Riley-Smith and Frank Riley-Smith, who are now the proprietors. New concerns have sprung into existence, and the total output of the Tadcaster breweries, I am informed, now amounts to about io,ooo barrels per week. ‘The great success of this important industry is no doubt largely due to the excellent and suitable quality of the water, of which the supply seems practically inexhaustible, and is derived from numerous wells sunk in the magnesian limestone strata. The water is naturally rich in sulphate of lime, and in point of hardness is said to be superior to that of Burton-on-Trent. Some of these springs come up very copiously at the surface, and for centuries have been the source of water supply to the town. The springs are locally known as “popple-wells,” and one of them, situated about fifty yards from the north side of the wall of the churchyard, and close to the river, had such repute, that in the coaching-days, the people at one or two of the principal inns would use no other than this “popple-water” for the table.
In our walks about Tadcaster certain odoriferous breezes make us conscious of the presence of these famous breweries. But if Tadcaster ozone is surcharged with the extract of malt it has certainly not proved prejudicial to either the animal or vegetable life of the district. On the contrary, few districts in England are more fertile, or have produced a larger number of instances of human longevity, For its size and population, Tadcaster has probably surpassed, for a long period, every other place in the broad-acred shire in the number of its octogenarians, Aberford not excepted. Many have also reached the century. Two of the most notable instances may be recorded, namely, John Shepherd, of Tadcaster, who died in 1757, aged 109, and William Hughes, of Tadcaster, who died in 1769, aged 127. The time and place of their birth or baptism I am unable to verify, the Tadcaster Registers for the Civil War period being missing. My authority for these cases is the Mirror for Dec. 11th., 1822.
But if the inhabitants of Tadcaster have been long-lived, they have also been, so far as past history sheds light on the subject, a right-lived, law-abiding people. They have rarely been charged with crimes of a serious nature, and in the space of nearly five centuries (1379 to 1862) there are but four recorded instances of persons resident within the parish having suffered the extreme penalty of the law. Perhaps the most memorable of these cases was that of George Foster, a young man of 25, who had been taken and tried for false coining at Tadcaster, and being found guilty, he was executed at Tyburn, without Micklegate Bar, York, April 8th, 1582. The circumstaiices excited considerable interest at the time, and it is said that fully io,ooo people were present to witness the culprit’s untimely end. There are, however, records of many highway and other robberies committed within the limits of the parish by “foreigners” who had followed in the wake of the coaches that daily passed through the town. For example, on the evening of November 10th, 1801, a Mr. Wm. Midgley, of Tadcaster, was riding home from Leeds Market, when he was stopped by two foot-pads at Bramham Lane End, about three miles from Tadcaster, and robbed of bills to the amount of £55. The rascals got clear off. This road had a had repute in the coaching times. A story is related of a Mr. Scott, an attorney, of Knottingley, who while on his way to York was attacked by two armed footpads on the London road about a mile out of Tadcaster. He at once gave them what money he had in his pockets, but knowing the evil character of the locality had taken the precaution to put a number of bank-notes, &c., into one of his boots. Happily in our days of pleasure-tours, and driving and cycling, the times, like the public roads, have greatly improved (about £8,000,000 per annum having been of late years expended on the maintenance of streets and roads in England and Wales), and there is little to fear from such marauders on our old rural turnpikes.
The subject of crime is not the most attractive to dwell upon, though it is unfortunately an element to be reckoned with in the life of most communities. But if we except the lawlessness consequent upon rebellion, political and religious (of common occurrence in former times), the parish of Tadcaster has in the past a good record. Even the dissolution of monasteries—that most corrupt of all revolutions
—does not seem to have inveigled the inhabitants into rebellion as in many other places, notwithstanding its always-unfortunate position as a gravitating centre of the opposing parties. Perhaps this may be owing in a large measure to the early enfranchisement and consequent independence of the bulk of the inhabitants, who declined submission to either cause, and were content to abide by the issues of the unhappy feud. There can, however, be no doubt that for a lengthened period this revolution fermented much poverty and distress in the district. The times, indeed, were long out of joint. Men, and women too, declined to follow any useful occupation, and the roads were full of rogues and idlers. Rewards were offered for the apprehension of all beggars, gipsies, fiddlers, pipers, tinkers, petty chapmen, and others wandering abroad. Indeed many such were sham-peddlers and freebooters, who went about in the disguise of strolling minstrels.

I may mention a very remarkable incident illustrative of these troubled times, which is related in the old chronicles of York Castle. It appears that a man named Bartendale, a piper or strolling musician, had been apprehended for felony, and was condemned to be hanged at the York gallows. The penalty was actually carried out on March 2 1634, and when the man had hung the better part of an hour, he was cut down and interred near the place of execution. A
short time afterwards one of the Vavasours, of Haziewood, near Tadcaster, while riding with an attendant to York, thought he saw the earth move at the spot. Both he and his man dismounted, and proceeding to remove the earth, they found to their dismay the unfortunate victim alive, and looking them in the face They conveyed him to the Castle, where he was tended, and at the next Assizes he obtained a reprieve. That eccentric rhymer, “ Drunken Barnaby,” alludes to the incident when he says
Half alive or dead he rises,
Got a pardon next assizes,
And in York continued blowing,
Yet a sense of goodness showing.
But the real facts seem to be that he discontinued “blowing,” but became a hostler at a local inn and lived honestly afterwards.
Much might be written on other local events, customs, stories and traditions of a neighbourhood boasting the antiquity of Tadcaster. These may sometime form the subject of a separate volume. One event of more than a century ago may, however, be recalled, as it helps to typify the strong democratic spirit of the people at a time when local Nonconformity was rousing the people to a right under standing of the national freedom. John Wilkes, the self-elected “champion of the people” had been outlawed for his libellous opposition to measures of the Government, but in 1768 he was reinstated and elected by a large majority member for Middlesex. But being again expelled, the indignation of the people rose to such a pitch that they returned him again and again, and in the House of Commons allowed him quietly to take his seat. The joy of a great many of the inhabitants of Tadcaster knew no bounds. A meeting was called, and afterwards a procession, with music, was formed at the old Cross. A “hymn of rejoicing,” specially composed for the occasion by a local poet, was sung to instrumental accompaniment, the crowd cheering at the conclusion of every verse. The verses are now rarely met with, but the following must suffice as a sample of the rest
Ye honest hearts of Tadcaster, Come hither, with us join,
And drink to Wilkes and liberty
In bumpers of good wine;
And merry we will be, will be,
We will, now Wilkes gains liberty
Come hither, Sons of Liberty, Here’s wine and punch and ale:
Come hither to number 45 In hopes the cause won’t fail!
And merry, &c.

South to Stutton

Heading west out of Tadcaster, past one of those world famous breweries, we swing left onto the A162 and head south to cross over the town's modern by-pass. As we approach the bridge on the overpass the present road curves to the right leaving the original, straighter line of the earlier road's route. Cross the bypass below and beneath the overpass, on the left, is the stone bridge that let that older road cross over the Cock Beck. This bridge is still in use as part of the slip-road off the by-pass for traffic coming from the direction of York. Are we now mirroring the route of that ancient Tadcaster to Ferrybridge Roman road? Who knows? Further over to the left of this bridge, near the confluence of the Cock and the River Wharfe, was another bridge over the Cock, Kettleman Bridge. Perhaps this could also have been the road's crossing point. We need to know much more to hazard even a guess. Victorian local historians stated that Kettleman Bridge had Roman foundations. With the Roman fort at Tadcaster and a known villa just across the Cock Beck at Kirby Wharfe this bridge could well have been part of a national road network in those bygone days, or just a local connection between those two places.

A few hundred yards south down the road from the overpass and we have a turning to the right signposted Stutton. This side road is narrow with passing places for today's traffic and it leads the half mile or so to that small village.

Stutton Water Mill in 1891

The lane across the beck by the site of the water mill - July 2004

Soon after leaving the main road the narrow lane sweeps down to the Cock Beck crossing. Here it seems to cross the narrow waterway twice on the low bridges, but the second track is an old millrace. The water mill here at Stutton was situated on the left of our road, in the field alongside the lane, after it passes over the beck and starts it's climb up into the village. This building was still in situ at the turn of the 19th century but, sadly, is now long since gone. Just a few lumps and bumps mark it's site. Up into the village the road swings right and then left around the edge of the dwellings and away to the north-west. Just before it exits the village it passes a house on the left which used to be the old railway station one hundred and fifty years ago. You can almost hear those steam engines pass. The railway line is now long gone and so are we - back across the beck and along the lane to the main road where we turn right and continue to head south. But not for very far

.

Image produced from the www.old-maps.co.uk service with permission of Landmark Information Group Ltd. and Ordnance Survey

Stutton Main Street July 2004

Stutton, the local inn, July 2004

Like the Parlington estate, that we came across earlier in our travels, Grimston was enparked in the late 18th, early 19th century and just what was where previous to that is very difficult to say. As the road heads up the hill from the Stutton turning it wends its way around a hill to the right. Houses are there and it is one possible position for the old village - or the place where the village was moved to two and a half centuries ago to make room for the 'new' design of the park.

A couple of hundred yards further and the main gates to Grimston Park are on the left. Turn left here and into the driveway.

Looking across the Cock Valley from Grimston Park's drive. The mediaeval strip farming obvious in the foreground. July 2005

Grimston Hall Circa 1890

Grimston Hall July 2004

This is a public access to a private estate, mainly to allow customers to visit the garden centre which seems to do a busy trade.

Just inside these western walls of Grimston Park is a depression which runs parallel with the modern road. This was the Roman and mediaeval road which, over the years had moved sideways to take up the road line we have now. When Grimston was enparked, and its gardens set out so neatly by William Andrews Nesfield, he incorporated the sunken line of Roman road into his design with the idea of it being used as part of a route to promenade guests around the boundaries of the grounds. He named this now re-used Roman road as Emperor's Walk and it was lined by Roman busts and statues, some reproductions and some original Roman, possibly taken from the site of the Roman villa on the other side of the park in Kirkby Wharfe.

The size and scale of the estate is obvious to anyone as they drive down this tarmac road past the huge ancient trees and a smoothed landscape. As for earlier days?  The village was likely named after a chap called Grim - no surprise there, but this would indicate it as being of Norse ownership and there are few such places south of the river. We will, however, come across a couple more as we go on our travels. Grimston - Grim's Town - exactly who was Grim and where his original town lay is not known and the term 'Grim' is often used for Woden, as in Grim's Dyke nearer Leeds, so could just be a nickname for Norse occupation. Such enparking as happened here flattened any evidence of so very many old villages throughout the country. The little we know of Grimston is all fairly recent. An early wooden hall burned down in the time of William Grimston during the late 1600's. The present hall was built by Lord Howden in 1840 to replace an earlier building from the late 1700's set up by John Carr an architect of York. So that is three halls in as many centuries. We know that Grimston passed through many hands. In the time of Elizabeth I it was bought by the Stanhopes. A later Sir Edward Stanhope was High Sheriff of Yorkshire in 1615, but time saw the house and lands pass into the Gascoigne family, whom we have come across before and will again. It was purchased in 1815 by the Hon. John Cradock who later became Lord Howden and built the present hall as we have said. His son sold it to the Hon. Albert Denison who became Lord Londesborough in 1849 and it passed again in 1873 to John Fielding and then to that gent's nephew, Thomas Fielding in 1897.

The present-day garden centre, with it's large aviary, is past the main building, in the gardens of the old house overlooking the ancient fieldworks which stand out so proud between the estate and the Cock Beck while the driveway we are following  continues on and leads out of the estate to the small village of Kirkby Wharfe. Here is yet another hamlet that once carried the "in-Elmet" title.

Grimston's Kirby Wharfe Gatehouse

Now small it most certainly is - but very interesting non-the-less.

Kirby Wharfe Church

The village church is of ancient lineage, despite its many refurbishments hiding it's history, the last of which was in 1860, with the grand doorway being dated around 1140AD in the time of Stephen. There are several memorials within its walls to the Londesboroughs of Grimston Park and to the family of Lord Howden, lord of the manor of Kirkby Wharfe. Within this parish also stood Milford Hall, home of the Leedes family and there are two memorials to them dated 1564 and 1602.

When the village first took root it is not possible to say, but a Roman villa certainly stood here over the lane from the village green and stone evidence is to be found in and about the church of both Roman and 9th century Christian working. It probably pre-dates Grimston. The manor belonged to the Rythers of Ryther and Scarcroft, descended to the Ashes, and was purchased during Elizabeth I's reign by the Plumptons of Plumpton. Easy to see where family names came from - or village names came from - depending on what was named after which.

Anglo-Danish Cross Kirkby Wharfe - Photo from 1903

Old records of the church give us the usual confusion with place names and their spelling. 1477 sees the village named Kirkby-super-Wharfe, while 1540 has it as Kirkby-super-Wharf and 1602 gives us Kirkby-upon-Wharf. We now have it as Kirkby Wharfe. So it's the church by the Wharfe - however you may wish to write it. Continuing south out of the village brings us to the Ulleskelf road where we turn left.

The lane is more an avenue with trees planted 90 years ago. The village of Ulleskelf, with its Nordic title, sadly offers little in the way of historical detail. The Shillito family had their seat here for decades but whatever the origins of the village were they are lost in time.

So onward to where Edmund Bogg yet again takes up the story at the end of the 1800's; ......".RYTHER, its unpretentious tower peeping modestly out from the surrounding trees. The interior, with its effigies and tombs, and the fields around, with the few remaining vestiges of a stronghold which once stood here, tell us of history a thousand years past. To the antiquarian this must be a very interesting spot. Some of the work in this church cannot be later than the 11th century. The ohancel arch is circular and of immense thickness. Along the entire length of the south aisle are the tombs and effigies of warriors and ladies, and although their history is entirely forgotten, they still rest on from century to century.

How hushed and solemn is the place as we look on the monuments of the dead. The first tomb is of pure alabaster marble, on which reposes the effigy of a knight in full armour, of the 14th century, supposed to be a member of the Ryther family, who fought on the side of the Yorkists, and was probably slain at Towton Field, near by.
The collar round the neck represents the sun in splendour; the work of this collar and indeed the whole tomb is a rich specimen of Italian or Venetian art. On the sides and ends are several figures, which have been very rudely handled by the spoilers, who have had no veneration for the past in doing this sacrilegious deed. The

second tomb, of Portland marble, is beautifully decorated with tracery, representing bunches of grapes, the beautiful workmanship being full of detail and finish. Resting under an Ogee arch in the church wall is the figure of a lady in the costume of the latter part of the 13th century, her hands, resting on her breast, clasp a heart, which she seems to be in the act of presenting to the Church.
At the extreme end of the aisle is the time-worn effigy of a crusader, his chain
armour and other accoutrements tell us that much of his time was spent on the battlefield, probably fighting with the lion king on the plains of Palestine, and may have stood in the ranks of those proud barons when they won the Magna Charta in the meadows of Runnimeade. By the side of the warrior rests his lady, with hands clasped in the attitude of prayer. History is silent respecting these tombs, but the last two probably represent a Sir W. Ryther and his wife, living during the latter part of the 12th century. An old stone near the altar reads :—“ Here lies the body “of Idonea de Gainsbro’, a prioress of Nun-Appleton. She died 1334.” In the fields near Bolton Percy a similar tombstone of another prioress was some time since found, which at the time of its discovery was doing duty as a cover for the head of a drain it has since been removed to Bolton Percy church. On the floor in the south aisle are several stones and brasses, adorned with armorial bearings, to the memory of John Robinson of Ilyther and several of his descendants.
Although the castle has long since disappeared, the remains of a deep moat are still to be seen, and the mounds in the cultivated fields fully attest that the castle of the old Saxon family which gave their name to the village stood here. The field west of the church is called to this day “Hall Garth.”
This old family must have been of some importance, even as far back as 800 years ago, for when the nunnery across the the river at Appleton was founded, in the early years of Stephen, a Ryther, of Ryther Castle, signed the deeds. Sir William de Aldburgh, of Harewood, dying without issue, the castle and lands came into possession of his two sisters. Elizabeth married one Sir Richard Redman, knight of Westmoreland; Sybill married Sir William Ryther, of Ryther Castle, and it is rather singular that these two families and their descendants inhabited the old castle of Harewood jointly for several generations, the last to inhabit the castle was a Sir Robert Ryther, towards the close of the 15th century, and he was interred in Ryther church. A Sir William Ryther, born 1405, married Isabella, daughter of Sir William Gascoyne of Gawthorpe, son of the renowned judge. Apart from its past history and the associations which are gathered round the church, there is nothing to make us linger in the village."

Now we retrace our steps and head back past Ulleskelf to the Tadcaster-Ferrybridge road. The lane we follow was probably an early by-pass for the 18th century enparked estate and replaced the riverside track that made it's way to Kettleman Bridge. Over on the right, well above our heads, is the Grimston Hall tower folly up there upon the hill, which must give fantastic views for many miles around.

On to the t-junction and, crossing the hump which was the old Roman road, we turn left towards Towton. Here, on the left by the junction, the old railway line passed, beneath us, on its way to Stutton and that ex-station we came upon earlier. But a quarter mile ahead is the village of Towton. I hate to bring up the subject of spelling and names yet again but here we have yet another example. On a touring map of 1720 the village of Towton is called Towton but also called Tolston. I know they are a pain - but anyone attempting any investigations must allow for these variations, especially if using search engines. This village or town is not mentioned in the Domesday Book - but now what a name this small place carries! And there has been far more to Towton than just that bloody battle in 1461.

Entering Towton July 2004

Let's start on Towton with a quote from Langdale's Topographical Dictionary of Yorkshire. (1822)

TOWTON, in the parish of Saxton, wapentake of Barkston-Ash, liberty of Pontefract; (Towton Hall, the seat of the Hon. Martin Bladen Hawke,) 2 miles S. of Tadcaster, 10 from Ferrybridge, 12 from Pontefract. Pop. 94.

As we enter Towton village from the north we find that the right hand side of the road has the Rockingham Arms pub. Down alongside the present-day car park runs a lane called Old London Road. Tradition has it that this was the only thoroughfare to Tadcaster in the mediaeval period. There is no proof of this and such a ninety degree junction as this is unlikely, and, if the track is followed down into the valley towards Cock Beck then it is a very narrow and very steep road indeed. Surely too much so to carry the traffic such an important roadway would invite. So the search for the actual main route can be found in Mediaeval Battles.

The Norman parcelling of the country after 1066 put this village into the hands of the Pictavenses or Paytafins, who were also the lords of Headingley. A later deed of Robert Patefin, then lord of Towton, grants to Roger or Robert Berkin and his wife Alice (whose first husband was Roger Paytefin) all the town of Towton. Late in the thirteenth century the manor passed to the Stophams of Weston. In 1310 Sir William Stopham mustered his followers at Berwick-on-Tweed to fight the Scots and in 1316 this knight was also certified as lord of Baildon. He had no son and his daughter married Sir John Vavasour, of the Haselwood Vavasours, with which the name of Stopham ended. Towton then later passed to the powerful Roos family.

Thomas de Roos 1427-1464

This powerful lord was on the losing side at the battle of Towton and died three years later to the headman's axe after the battle of Hexham, whether he was the actual lord of Towton or it just belonged to another family member I haven't had time to enquire. He was Lord Roos of Hamlake - Hemsworth to today's tongue. The castle there - or what is now left of it - must have been a place of majesty in it's heyday.

Whatever the case, Towton the battle and Towton the town was lost as far as this family was concerned. It went to the Meltons of Aston until 1544 when the last of the family, John, died and it passed to his daughter Lady Dorothy who was married to George D'Arcy. George was knighted for his bravery at the siege of Tournay and was later made Baron D'Arcy.

Towton passed time and again through several families until the name once more reached national ears. This time at the hands of Edward Hawke. He was born on 21st February 1705 in London and joined the navy in February 1720  being promoted to no less than Rear-Admiral for his distinguished service against the French in the War of the Austrian Succession. In October 1747 he captured six French warships in a brilliant action that took place off the coast of Brittany.

Edward Hawke

As commander of the fleet blockading the French naval station of Brest in 1759, he played a vital part in preventing French reinforcement to Canada, where the British conquered the territory in the Seven Years War. As a counter-offensive the French decided to invade Great Britain, the French fleet at Brest being crucial to this plan and on 14th November 1759, the French Admiral Hubert de Brienne, Count de Conflans, taking advantage of an opening in Hawkes' blockade, headed southeast from Brest along the French coast to pick up troops for the invasion. But six days later Hawke's fleet of some 23 ships caught up with the 21-strong French squadron and a westerly gale drove the French squadron into Quiberon Bay where a three-hour battle ensued. Hawke was victorious with nine French ships destroyed and the remainder disabled. Hawke retired from sea duty after the battle. He served as First Lord of the Admiralty from 1766-1771 and was made Baron of Towton in 1776. He died on 17th October 1781. We will come across this family again at Scarthingwell Hall, to the south.

Above the door at Towton Hall

Towton Hall is an interesting building in itself being still a private dwelling but originating as a classic fortified manor house with its four corner towers now integrated into the later extensions to north and south. The cellarage is very limited in size compared with the upper building, and has earth floors. Doubtless the cellar was once much larger than that part that can be reached from the house today. This may be in part due to the chapel of Towton having vanished. Perhaps some of it still lies in the walled-off sections of cellar beneath what is still called the Chapel Room.

Towton 1849

For more details on the village of Towton click HERE

That Towton had a chapel is not in doubt - though some folk do so. For those who doubt it this following extract is from the 'Fabric Rolls of York Minster'

"Toughton 22 Dec. 1502. Whereas the Chapell of Toughton in ye parish of Saxton, in which chapell and ground about it very many bodies of men slain in ye time of warre lye buryed..........Now forasmuch as ye said chappell is not sufficiently endowed with possessions and rents as to sustaine it and have Divine service celebrated therein, without the charitable alms of Christian peopl elsewhere. Whereuppon William Abp of Yorke hereby granted his licence and authoritie to Dom., Robt Burdet, chpln to celebrate Divine service in ye sd chappell, and to the Inhabitants of ye Towne of Toughton to found a Gilde or frateritie in ye same chappell to the honour of St. Mary ye Vergin, St. Anne and St.Thomas ye Martyr"

The Archbishop proceeds to grant to those who would assist in donations to the fabric and endowment an:- "Indulgentia 40 dierum for 2 yeares, pro capello de Toughton noviter edificatur." 

It would seem that Richard III wished to extend the chapel in respect of those that died at Towton in 1461 and in doing so put his brother on the throne. Sadly his death at the battle of Bosworth curtailed such plans. Just where the earlier Towton Chapel exactly was and where any new chapel or chapel extension may have been planned is not known though the flat plateau behind the hall is named Chapel Garth. Seems fairly obvious but recent digs here though have found nothing.. Further work is still progressing on this important search.

One item that may well have come from the older chapel is a cross that could well have been at the apex of the roof-line. It sat in the ditch beside the road that leads to Lead, south of Towton, for many centuries. Here is a sketch made in 1899. In the 1920's it was incorporated into the cross at the roadside which is known as D'Acre's Cross. More of that anon.

The Cross in the hedgerow - Bogg 1903

In this present-day world of BIG business, BIG cities, BIG everything etc. isn't it refreshing to see how relatively small places have had such important influences upon our present day? So, leaving this small sized village behind we turn right just after Towton Hall's gateway to follow the B1217 - which sort of says it all, a mere 'B' road. No 'class' there. And yet this lane brings us along to some of the most interesting scenery in the whole Elmet area. At least from a historical point of view.

Just 800 yards or so out of Towton along the B1217 (that's 'er 700-ish of those foreign metre thingies) and we come across a solitary stone pillar, known locally as D'Acre's Cross, on the right hand side of the road. Now this is a monument to the Battle of Towton in 1461. Britain's bloodiest battle. Lord D'Acre was killed during the fight and is buried in Saxton church yard - but just what other significance his name has with this cross is not known. But don't read too much into it anyway. It was only constructed in the 1920's. And the chap that did the work used an early parish boundary stone as it's base with a concrete shaft to bear the cross he found in the nearby hedgerow. No problem there, but people do tend to think it somehow marks the battle lines of the Towton conflict, which it doesn't , the stone will have been there long, long before the battle took place - and visitors also may be thrown ever so slightly off track by the incorrect date he had engraved on the base!

Dacre's Cross

Looking around from here on a clear day gives a wonderful panorama of the region. We really are on a high point of land, with views of the White Horse on Sutton Bank all those miles to the north, York Minster, Selby Abbey and, much closer, Hazelwood Castle nestling in the trees over the other side of the Cock valley. A track runs from the cross to the far fence above the Cock valley. This is private land but it is okay to walk along the track to where you will be afforded a good view of the beck valley below and avail yourself of the information on the Towton Battlefield Society map board which is sited there.

The Battle of Towton in 1461 is best suited to it's own page - for information on the bloodiest fight in Britain please go to the Mediaeval Battles page.

Looking North-East from the cross picks out the towers of York Minster in the distant mists.

For more photo's taken from the map board west of the cross click here

We continue onwards along the lane, down through the dip of Bloody Meadow and over the hill to the road junction which leads to  the village of Saxton. We will, however, continue on the present-day main road rather than take this narrow thoroughfare entitled Cotchers Lane. How it got that unusual name is not truly known though some did used to say that it celebrated Lord Fauconberg's surprise 'arrow storm' upon the Lancastrian forces during the battle. A nice thought. Who are we to argue?

Along the road we go, down the hill into the valley passing the crossroads to where the road runs alongside the twisting stream that is Cock Beck. Crossroads? Hang on! We know where we have just come from and we will soon learn where the road leads - but where do these other lanes wend? Interesting paths indeed. To the left is a way into Saxton - or to be more precise, a way FROM Saxton - to the water mill, which was once just along the other roadway to our right. This now leads between farms and alongside the beck with it's old millrace still very obvious to the eye. Then the lane continues past the beck and it's valley to join up with the ancient way from the village of Lead to Hazelwood Castle. The mill itself seems to have moved upstream a hundred yards or so at some time to where it's ruins sit beside the present main road. Even this move was something like a couple of hundred years ago and it's derelict buildings are now being converted into dwellings.

From the map above it is possible to get something of a feel for the changes this small valley has seen. It is from 1770 and the enparking of estates had begun in earnest with all the variations that this meant for the positions of villages and the routes of roads. We joined this road just south of Towton and from this old map it is easy to see how the present roadway has been smoothed out in it's track as it became more of a through-route and less of a collection of lanes joining adjacent properties. The accuracy of such early maps is always somewhat in doubt, but they do give an indication to us that can always be checked out on the ground. Note that the connecting lane between the mill alongside the Cock and the Towton-to-Saxton road is shown as little more than a trackway. This is now today's main road and further along, where today's main road runs alongside the beck towards Lead, is very strange indeed. Not just on this map but actually on the ground it seems as if this is a relatively new stretch of highway. The next lane from Saxton that we come to on our left joins this actual stretch of our modern day road after a very strange kink in it's own route. It could well be that originally this Saxton lane was the direct connection to the mill for the villagers, keeping more to the higher, and drier line away from the beck. Note that  the earlier lane we have just met up with at the crossroads is not shown at all on this map. We will come back to the various possibilities after we have travelled another few hundred yards to the Crooked Billet public house. A good enough place to ponder those options. The Crooked Billet allegedly gets its name from Warwick having stayed there before the battle of Towton. The 'crooked billet' or knotted staff was his badge. It is unlikely that the inn was on this exact spot and perhaps slightly further behind and if Warwick stayed there no one truly knows.

But anyway, here we are now at the ancient village of Lead. Except that there is no village. Just the pub, a chapel and an old farm house. But there certainly was a whole village once, and it's evidence is all around. Observe straight away that the hall noted on the map is called Red Hall. This can only be a mistake on the map maker's part as it should obviously be 'Lead Hall'. He probably got the name from someone who had spent too long in the pub and he misunderstood their slurred speech. So what and just where was this, now invisible, village of Lead? Lead gets it's name from the same root as Leeds, Ledston and Ledsham - the Loides - so this most likely will have been a very early settlement, pre-Saxon, never mind pre-Norman. But what do we have other than just an old name? Take a look around.

Lead Bridge - today

Over the road from the Crooked Billet Inn is the bridge which carried the lane as it came south from Haselwood Castle and then went on towards Huddleston Hall, to the south-east. Cross over the bridge and right there before you is at least some of the old village of Lead. The meadow between the chapel and the bridge shows in its bumps and dips so much in the way of streets and houses. Despite the passing of over six centuries the ground is still marked by the building lines that indicate the old village. All around the meadow are various indications of the occupation with the, once prestigious village hall being alongside the footpath in the top, left-hand corner. The chapel itself is apparently not as large as it once was. The fenced area to the north of it was possibly also once part of the building. Over in the up-stream meadow to the left of the bridge are vast fish-farming pools with channels directing waters from the Cock through them and back into it again just before it reaches the bridge. Heavy rains still fills these ponds and then highlights the design perfectly. Stonework foundations still indicate where the water gates were that controlled this harvest of food for the village.

Edmund Bogg prior to 1902

In this same meadow is a very pronounced ridge with the occasional tree and rows of stone which are part of the road-side wall of several centuries ago. It is interesting to note just how wide the road was back then. All of thirty yards or so. This width is echoed further along the way next to Lotherton which gives us some idea of how wide that roadway must have been in past centuries. Certainly this 'slimming' of the route happened a couple of centuries ago at least as the Ordnance Survey map of 1845 shows the route at its present width - as well as showing the old line in the meadow. And there is just one other facet of  interest with this old place. What of the village was on the other side of the Cock River? The present pub and roadway side? Anything? Nothing? The inn certainly was, though possibly further back from the beck than this later, present-day building now is. With a barn still alongside and another building, now gone, between the present road and the car park, it gives a possible track for the Lotherton to Lead roadway to run. Not as the present road runs alongside of the beck  but off slightly to the right and straight through where the Crooked Billet main building now is, through it's present car park, and then over the hill to Saxton. There is even a footpath still marking a right-of-way along this very line. So who can say? Here was an important junction of local roads, so were there any dwellings alongside the lane which now runs beside the pub? Were any alongside the route that goes over the hill to Saxton? We know not. But as these areas would have been drier than those around the chapel and these were certainly built upon, it would be a serious possibility. Sadly no proof is on offer.As yet.

But this can not have been a place of small size or import. The gravestones in the floor of the chapel are of the Teyes or Tyas family. Margaria, Baldwinius and Franconis are remembered here. Margaret was the daughter of Roger le Teyes and she was also heiress to his brother Walter, Baron of Steingrieve who owned land in Yorkshire, Bedfordshire, Buckinghamshire and Essex.   The Teyes family owned Lead for many generations. Taking a look at just one of them: "Franco le Tyays having to answer for free warren and his lands quit of service at Lede and elsewhere, claimed by charter of Henry III, granted to him, Franco, and his heirs free warren in all his domain lands of Lede (Lead), Wodchuse (Woodhouse) and Farnley. This was to be inquired into with reference to usurped privileges. He did service in person at the county service nearest after Michaelmas and at the 'trithing' after that feast. At the wapentake of Barkeston and Aggebrigg, after that feast, he gave 6shillings and 4 pence, wapentake fine to be quit of all other services, county, trithing and wapentake."  The Tayases, Tyays, Tyases, Teyes' were tenants of the De Laci family; probably the greatest landowners in the region. In later years it passed to the Scargill - or Skargill - family.

The Will of Thomas Skargell of Lead Grange.

by Patricia Constantine.

In the name of God Amen. On the twelth day of the month of March in the Year of our Lord 1432. I Thomas Skargell of Lead, Knight, being of sound mind and good memory, ordain, depose and make my will in this manner.

First I bequeath my soul to almighty God, the blessed Virgin Mary and all saints and my body for burial wherever God disposes. Likewise I give and bequeath in the name of my mortuary my best animal. Likewise I bequeath for wax to be burned around my body on the day of my burial sixteen pounds of wax for five candles. Likewise I give and bequeath to each chaplain taking part in the exsequies at the time of my death twelve pence. Likewise I give and bequeath in the convocation of paupers, the blind, lame and my neighbours on the day of my burial and on the day of my 'octave' thirteen pounds six shillings and eight pence. Likewise I bequeath in the distribution of the poor and infirm on the day of my burial forty shillings. Likewise I bequeath for the Fabric of the Chapel of Lead twenty shillings. Likewise I give and bequeath for the Fabric of the church at Saxton twenty shillings. Likewise I bequeath for the fabric of the Cathedral church of the blessed Peter six shillings eight pence. Likewise I bequeath to the Brothers of Saint Robert by Knaresborough six shillings eight pence. Likewise I bequeath to the Brothers of Saint Leonard forty shillings. And to the poor of the same house six shillings eight pence to pray for me. Likewise I bequeath for the Fabric of the Church of the College of Saint John of Beverley twelve pence. Likewise I bequeath to the fabric of Bridlington Monastery twelve pence. Likewise I bequeath to the Order of the preaching Brothers of Pontefract six shillings eight pence. Likewise I bequeath for the fabric or repair of the parish church of Baddesworth six shillings eight pence. Likewise I bequeath to two suitable and honest chaplains to celebrate divine services in Leeds for one whole year fourteen marks for the safety of my soul of all my benefactors and for the souls of all others for whom I have received some kindness here or done any harm, namely for both seven marks. Likewise I bequeath to my daughter Johanna twenty pounds and one best murra* and one best dish/bowl with cover and twelve best silver spoons. Likewise I bequeath to Roger, my brother, ten marks and one murra and one dish/bowl with cover and six silver spoons. Likewise I bequeath to John, son of the same Roger five marks. And to the sister of the same John five marks. Likewise I bequeath to the three boys of the said Roger to each forty shillings. Likewise I bequeath to John, my son, ten marks, one murra, one dish/bowl with six silver spoons. ikewise I bequeath to the said John one brass pot at the discretion of my daughter Johanna and one bed and one drape** of Blewesay. Likewise I bequeath to Thomas, son of the same John, ten marks. Likewise I bequeath to Eufemia, daughter of the said John, a hundred shillings. Likewise I bequeath to Robert, son of the said John one hundred shillings. Likewise I bequeath to Johanna Boswell of Abirford, daughter of the same John, five marks. Likewise I bequeath to Katerina and her sister, daughters of the said John Skargill to both of them five marks. Likewise I bequeath to John Rider, my servant twenty shillings. Likewise I bequeath to Richard Thwates ten marks, one bed and one murra with six silver spoons. Likewise I bequeath to Alice, mother of the siad Richard ten marks and to her daughter one mark and to William, son of the same Alice one hundred shillings. And to John her brother one hundred shillings.To William Eland six marks; to Johanna Elend his sister ten marks. To Robert of Leeds six shillings eight pence. To John Bramhop, my servant three shillings four pence. To Thomas Gaunt three shillings four pence. Likewise to Johanna my daughter my best wagon with my four best oxen and two best cows. To Roger my brother one wagon with two oxen. To John Skargell two oxen. To Richard Thwates two oxen with one cow. To John Eland one cow. To my daughter Johanna two best pots a best basin with ewer, one pair of sideboards, one almarium and one cupboard. To Roger my brother one bed of Redesay embroidered and one coverlet and one drape of say and one basin woth one ewer at the discretion of the said Johanna. Likewise I bequeath to my daughter Johanna half of all my grains and wheat in the fields and outside with half my malt. And another half I bequeath to Roger my brother, to John my son and Richard Thwates in equal shares after funeral expenses. To Johanna Eland one bed. To Johanna my daughter two best safes/chests. But the remainder of all my goods I give and bequeath to my Executors to lay out for my soul according as they are willing to answer before a highest judge. And for carrying out all the aforesaid faithfully I appoint Johanna my daughter, Roger my brother, John my son, and Richard Thwates my kinsman as my Executors in whose trustworthyness beyond all others I entrust myself. As testimony of that I have attached my seal to this present document. Given at Lede on the day and year afore-mentioned.

* I have left 'murra' as in the Latin. In classical Latin in means 'myrrh' - which gives no sense here. But it can mean either myrtle-wood or any article made therefrom.

**Tapestries can mean either a carpet or a wall-hanging or anything similar.

Will Proved 1st February 1433.

Article ©: Towton Battlefield Society 1999

Leyland tells us little of Lead "....a hamlet where Scargill had a fair manor place of timber. Scargill, late knight, left two daughters to his heirs, whereof Tunstall wedded one and Gascoyne of Bedfordshire, the other." Not a great deal of information there. And he speaks of the manor, not of the vanished village. How did it vanish? Simple, sadly - plague - during the middle of the 14th century. Mirroring so many other places that suffered the same devastating  fate.

Off we go further along the road, around the fish farm meadow and then over to the left and up the hill. Against the road here on the left another building is shown on the old map. Perhaps just a barn. Who knows? Over on the right by the beck, out of line-of-sight, late maps show a long earthworks. Part of the Becca Banks line of workings that run from Barwick-in-Elmet towards Sherburn-in-Elmet. More questions without certain answers. Up to the top of the hill and the road passes through a line of hedging to the right and trees to the left - Woodhouse Rein - another even larger part of these extensive earthworks. And immediately on the right of the road as this hedge is passed stood a large Roman villa. Like so much of our local history this site has never been properly investigated, never been extensively dug. What would be found? We can only guess.Certainly there have been many minor discoveries of Roman artefacts over the year all around this place.

Now we are running along the northern edge of another old village, Lotherton. This used to be spelled Lutterington. So do we presume it was Lotha's Town or Lutter's Town. Could be either, or neither  - or both. We do know that back in 1202 Richard de Lutterington held a knight's fee here. It is now owned by the City of Leeds and their history of the hall says Lotherton has been in continuous occupation since the 7th century and that it was named after an Anglo-Saxon called Hluttor. Luttertown is thereby quite reasonable - but why Lutteringtown? The Domesday Book suggests a hall of some description was there in 1086 and since then it has seen many well-named tenants such as Nevilles, de Hothams and Gascoinges.

The latter family we have already come across a couple of miles west of here,  just across the Roman road at Parlington. They purchased much of the surrounding lands here to add to that Parlington estate in the 16th century but the building itself wasn't purchased by the family  until 1825 when Richard Oliver Gascoinge took both the hall and the park under his wing. It wasn't until the end of that century that the hall took it's present architectural form, remodelled by Colonel Frederick Gascoinge. His son, Sir Alvary, retired from the diplomatic service to live at the hall in 1953. In 1968 it was given to the City of Leeds and a year later was opened to the people of Leeds as a museum and bird garden.

Lotherton Chapel

The little chapel of Lotherton is 12th century and was connected to Sherburn-in-Elmet. It has two Norman windows, one in the north wall of the chancel and another to the south side of the nave. The entrance is likely eighteenth century as many changes were made at that time such as the shortening of the nave, also the chancel arch was remodelled and the bellcote rebuilt. John Bilston renovated the chapel in the early years of the 20th century and during the First World War the chapel was used by wounded soldiers when the hall was a V. A. D. hospital. During these works evidence of medieval wall paintings came to light.

The Village.

So what of the village that may well have been this Lother's town? Like so many others just over two hundred years ago it was emptied to allow 'enparking' and expansion of the grounds of the hall. How large or how small it had become at this time in the late 1700's we do not know, but the map above gives an indication. . It is most likely that the villagers were re-housed in Aberford as happened with those from Parlington. Certainly Lotherton must have been a fair sized village in it's day with a looped lane to the west where charcoal was the fruit. This lane later was used in part as the connection between the Great North Road at Hook Moor and the hall at Lotherton and yet still, to this day, it carries the name Colliers Lane.

Here's what Wheater had to say in the late 1800's :-

LOTHERTON.
TO the student of the history of civilization in England, a curious chapter is presented by an old feudal manor-house and its dependencies. After learning that a foreign army had conquered the people, and during the period of its domination had ruled them with an iron hand, he will not be surprised to find, perched above the insignificant dwellings of the peasantry, the frowning castle, behind whose walls the ruler could utter his defiance to all who dared to dispute his power. But if, in viewing the mouldering ruins of such a home of usurped authority, he should ask himself how it happened that the two races were fused into one, instead of the one or the other being annihilated, he will be at a loss to satisfy himself out of the purely military records of the past. He must turn to some other source, and find in persuasion that solution of his problem which coercion could not produce. A power of a higher order must be found to allay the passions evoked by the use of the sword. That power is at once indicated by the chapel which has sprung up under the very walls of the fortress. The bitterness of the recollection of long-suffering and many indignities has been destroyed by the efforts of the priest; the pride of supremacy and social superiority has been humbled by the teaching of Holy Writ; and the now deserted, perhaps desecrated, chapels of our old manor-houses must be regarded as the links which have given unity to the two formerly antagonistic races.
In the little hamlet of Lotherton there still remains as a place of worship one of the chapels of which I speak. It is a rude building, consisting of a nave and chancel, and to the casual observer its pretensions to antiquity are lost. Surrounded by tall trees, it is almost invisible to the passer-by; and it is not until you have threaded your way between these trees that the exterior of the chapel furnishes you with any evidence of its age. On the south side there is a door and window; the door is decidedly of the post-Reformation era. But on the north side is the Norman doorway, the arch of which yet remains in a state of fine preservation. The shafts of the pillars are gone, but the foliated capitals carry the erection of the building back into the reign of Henry 11., or his successor, Richard I. There need be no doubt, however, that some young knight, before starting on his perilous journey to Palestine, has there knelt to supplicate the Virgin for a blessing upon his exploits. Just at the south side of the window in the west end of the chapel there is an ancient holy-water trough, cut in the top of a low Norman pillar, and evidently contemporary with the arch of the north door. The north door is now disused; in fact, it is walled up, except a small part where a window, the only one in the north side, is inserted. The east window is a small Norman" slit," ten inches in width, but it seems to have been altered during the period when" Decorated" architecture prevailed. The furniture of the chapel is of the rudest description, yet none of it indicates great age. The entire length of the building is 54 feet; its breadth at the west end is 21 feet. One remarkable feature of extreme antiquity, however, still remains, that is the Norman Holy Water Stoup. Lotherton was part of the barony of Sherburn, given to the Arch- bishop of York by King Athelstan. During the Norman times it was subinfeudated to a knightly family, who held it by military service. Its ancient name was Lutterington or Ludderton, which name it gave to its possessors. Richard de Lutterington held one knight's fee there, and in 1202, 4th John, Preciosa, who was the wife of Lambert, sought to recover of this Richard her reasonable dower, which she demands c.f the free tenement which belonged to the aforesaid Lambert, her husband, in Lutterington. But Lambert, that is the Lamb-herd, was a simple vassal and his wife could not legally gain any right in the tenement his lord permitted him, or his ancestors, to inhabit, and so Preciosa's claim was not allowed. Several of the name of Richard have been lords of the manor. In the 9th Henry 111., 1224, a suit arose between Robert Haget, demandant, and Richard Lutterington, tenant, of ten oxgangs and six score acres of land in Lutterington. Richard acknowledges them to be the right of Robert, as those which the same Robert hath of his gift, to be held to the said Robert and to his heirs begotten of his wife espoused by him, doing to the aforesaid Richard, for life of the same Robert, the service of two parts of one knight's fee. It would seem that Robert had married a daughter of Richard de Lutterington, and received the lands as her dowry, for it was ruled that if he have heirs, the heirs were to hold the said lands of the lord of the fee, viz., the Archbishop of York, but if he had no issue, they were to revert to the said Richard. In the 20th Henry Ill., 1236, a fine was between Richard de Lutterington, demandant, and Robert Haget, deforciant, of the manor of Lutterington, when it was ordered that the manor should remain to Robert for life, and to Gilbert Bernevale and his heirs. In the 36th Henry 111., 1251, the King granted to Magister Robert Haget, treasurer of York, and to Gilbert Bernevale, his assign, that the same treasurer and Gilbert and the heirs of the same Gilbert should have for ever free warren in all the demesne lands of his manor of Lutterington. During the pontificate of Archbishop Giffard Richard de Lutterington still held a knight's fee in Lutterington, but it is clear that Gilbert Bernevale afterwards became sole lord of the manor. This Gilbert died in the 5th Edward I, 1276, and the jurors at the inquisition taken after his death, say that he held the day that he died of the lord the King in caPite the manor of Farnham, co. Southampton, and that the said Gilbert had two daughters, Albreda and Cicely, and that Gilbert Cunday, the son of the aforesaid Albreda, who was of the age of 17 years at Pentecost last passed, and the aforesaid Cicely, of full age, are the next heirs of the said Gilbert, and the jurors say that Gilbert Neville, and Cicely, his wife, aunt and co-heir of Gilbert Cunday, being within age, and in the custody of the King, that whereas Gilbert Bernevale, father of the aforesaid Cicely, and grandfather of the aforesaid Gilbert Cunday, whose heirs they are, was not seized of nine messuages and nine oxgangs of land in Aberford and Lutterington, but that the aforesaid Gilbert Bernevale had granted the aforesaid messuages and lands, before his death, to John, the son of Alan Sampson, of York, and had placed him in full seizin of the same. Some division of the lands, as indicated, must have taken place. Gilbert Neville died 22nd Edward I., when his son John was found to be his next heir, and of the age of 26 years. In the 30th Edw. I., 1302, John Nevile, son and heir of Gilbert and Cicely Nevile, did homage and fealty to Thomas, Archbishop of York, at Otley, on the 18th kalends of June, for tenements which he claims to hold of him in Lutterington, which the lord let, the right of everyone being saved, Mag. William Beverley, Sir William Sotchill, and many others, being present. He appears by Hugh de Stowe, who comes with him. And being demanded by virtue of the oath aforesaid by what services, and what part of a knight's fee he holds, he says that he believes that he ought to answer for half a knight's fee and more, but not for two parts. But Sir Robert Fourneaux, knight (arms: Arg., a Pile, engrailed sable I, as he believes, ought to answer for the rest of a knight's fee, because he hath the moiety of the manor and land to it belonging, but not the rent. He acknowledged also that he hath held by suit of the court from three weeks to three weeks, and by foreign service. The manor bailiff was set to inquire whether this John held in demesne or in service, and for what part of a knight's fee; and for what part Sir Robert Fourneaux holds, who has not yet done his service; but the bailiff's report is not forthcoming. This service was repeated at Passtham on the 19th March, 1307-8. Whether this Sir Robert Fourneaux held that part of the manor alleged to have been given to the daughter of Alan Sampson we cannot decide. Sir Robert's claim was, however, recognised, and on the 13th May, 1310,
the Archbishop granted to Christiana Meinhill, widow of the late Sir Nicholas Meinhill, the marriage of Richard, son and heir of Sir Robert Fourneaux, knight, deceased, who held lands in Lutterington by knight's service, together with all the profits which may belong to the Archbishop by reason of the aforesaid marriage. Richard Fourneaux's married life was not a long one. In the 5th Edw. III., 1331, Archbishop Melton granted to Magister Robert de Bridlington the custody of the lands of Richard, son and heir of Richard Fourniss, in the town of Lutterington, in Aberford, by the suit of Court at Sherburn, in the presence of Thomas de la Mare, sacrist of the chapel of St. Mary and the Holy Angels.
John Nevill appears to have left a daughter, who inherited his property. On the 2nd of the kalends of February, 1310-1 at Cawood, Sir Geoffrey Hotham, knight, did his homage and fealty to the Arch- bishop for the third part of a knight's fee in Lutterington, where he claims to hold of him in the name of his wife's dower. Sir Geoffrey, or Galfrid, as he is sometimes called, was a man of considerable repute in his day, especially as a soldier. He was knight of the shire returned for York in 1306: one of the assessors and collectors in the County of York of the twentieth and fifteenth granted in that year. He was one of the commissioners of array of the levies in the County of York in 1309; and in 1312 he was summoned to appear before the King in York, on Sunday next before the Feast of St. Peter in Cathedra, February 20th, to treat of certain arduous affairs. In 13I 3, he obtains pardon, as an adherent of the Earl of Lancaster, for his participation in the death of Gaveston, and the disturbances occasioned thereby. He took a prominent part in the disastrous Scottish wars of the reign of Edward II. He commanded a portion of the West Riding men at the Battle of Bannockburn. Who was his successor we are not able to determine.
From this period a greater number of tenants is found in possession of lands in Lotherton. In 1301 the King granted to John Spring free warren in all his demesne lands of Lutterington; and on Sunday next after the Feast of St. Matthew the Apostle (Sept. 21), 1362, Sir Henry Grammary, Knight, granted by charter to William Dannings, of Aberford, one placea of land and ten acres of land with the appurtenances, in Lutterington, which place a lies between the messuage of Sir Thomas Bentley, Knight, on the south side, and the messuage of Thomas Boote on the north side. The Grammarys were then lords of the manor of Becca; their arms, cut in stone, are to be found on Aberford Church wall. In the same year, the above-mentioned Sir Thomas Bentley, Knight, gave to Thomas Carman, for homage, &c., in free marriage, all those his ten messuages in Lutterington and Aberford. The deed of gift was dated at Lutterington, May, I, 1362, and was witnessed by Sir William Grammary, Sir Henry Grammary, Sir John Sampson, Knights, Thomas Ellis, Thomas Mauncell, chaplains. The heirs of Andrew Grammary held in Aberford, Beckhagh, and Ouseflete, the third part of a knight's fee.
The Becca, Aberford, and Lotherton estates continued to be bound together for many years. In the 18th Henry VI., 1439, Richard Grammary, son of Sir William Grammary, released to Robert Stokes, son and heir of Alice, daughter of the aforesaid William, being in possession, his heirs and assigns, all that right, &c, in the manor of Bekerton and Beckhaugh, and in other lands in Salley and Ripon. In the 27th Henry VI., 1448, there was a fine between Sir Thomas Fulthorpe, Knight, William Harding, and John Pegham, complainants, and Robert Stokes, Esquire, deforciant, of the manor of Beckhauge, with the appurtenances and 40 acres of land, 12 acres of meadow, and 100 acres of pasture, with the appurtenances in Aberforth and Lutterington, the right of John, and he remitted and quit claimed from him and his heirs to the aforesaid Thomas, William, and John, and the heirs of the said John for ever. In the previous year Christopher Horbury and others, complainants, had commenced an action against Robert Stokes for the manor of Beckhauge, and land in Aberford and Lutterington; evidently the same claim as the above. In the 6th Edward IV. Thomas Fulthorpe, Esquire, released to Richard Bushbury and others all his right, &c., in a tenement called" Le Grange," in West Garforth, with all the lands, meadows, and appurtenances. These Fulthorpes were of the Micklefield family-had the Knight died on Towton Field?
On the 7th Nov., 1495, Sir Guy Fairfax, Knight, granted and confirmed to Guy Fairfax, his son, all and singular the lands, tenements, rents, &c., in the towns of Doncaster, Balby, Loversall, and Lutterington, in the county of York, to have and to hold to the aforesaid Guy, and to the heirs of his body lawfully begotten, rendering thereof to Sir Guy one red rose yearly, at the Feast of the Nativity of St. John Baptist, for all ser- vice, &c., and rendering to the chieflords those services, &c.; the remainder for default of lawful issue to the aforesaid Sir Guy and to his lawful heirs, to be held of the chief lords of the fee, and he will warrant and defend his right to the lands so given against all men; and, furthermore, Sir Guy cloth ordain WiIliam Kirkham, clerk, and John Alleyne, his attorneys, jointly and severally.
Lotherton is in the honour of Pontefract, and Tadcaster union. On the 6th June, 1650, it was ordered that the part of Aberford in the chapelry of Lotherton be annexed to the parish of Aberford, for at that time there were about thirty families belonging to it, the congregation being too small else it would have been raised into a parish church.
The vicar of Sherburn receives £10 yearly for celebrating divine service here. The building has a nave, chancel, and one bell. Lotherton Hall is the seat of Lord Ashtown, who is lord of the manor and chief land owner."

We do not go quite as far as Colliers Lane on this leg of our tour though, as we turn left into what was Lotherton village just after the Roman villa site, heading past the present-day exit for the hall which, looking at the map, must have once been the main road  through the village and then out east we go again, on towards Sherburn-in-Elmet.

Now we are going along another very old lane and to a very interesting junction of local thoroughfares. Here before us is the picturesque pond and cottage beneath Cold Hill Farm. Nowadays it is just one through route to Sherburn, where it becomes 'Sir John's Lane', but at Cold Hill we are greeted with with a T-junction to the left which leads over the hill to Saxton. But look at our old map. For a start it has a name change. The Victorians couldn't put up with it's old true title of 'Bare Arse' and changed it. Sad really, for 'Cold Hill' somehow doesn't have the same impact.  But, amusing names aside, hereabouts we must have had a very busy picture in the past. A picture that was fading even as long as 200 years ago. The road from Lotherton stayed to the left side of the narrow valley and carried on to Barkston Ash entering that village just south of the Ash Tree Inn. The Barkston end of that old lane still exists and even here at Bare Ar - I mean Cold Hill - it's line can be easily seen along and over the hillside. The T-junction heads out towards Saxton, as we have said. Joining this complex junction a few yards towards Saxton is the lane from Hazlewood Castle which we came across, literally, alongside the Crooked Billet where it bridges the Cock Beck. This present-day T-junction was then a crossroads with two lanes also going off south across the vale, as well as north, one towards Huddleston Hall and the other joining the Great North Road very close to where Mickelfield Castle must have been.. A very busy little spot as we said, and right here, seemingly in the middle of nowhere. At least today it is. What might it have been like some centuries ago though?

We leave this puzzle at the present-day T-junction to take the left turn over the hill and down into Saxton. Could this name be from 'Saxon's Town'? Situated here in the heart of the 5th and 6th century British kingdom of Elmet it could well be.

Taking this narrow route away from "Cold Hill" towards Saxton gives the traveller a marvellous view north across the rooftops of that village and on towards Towton and there, spread out before us, is the full vista of that famous battlefield. Far more impressive at this distance than close up where it's shear size indeed tends to be lost to the naked eye. No photo could ever do it justice. What a site it must have been for the approaching Yorkist forces. All the way from Castle Hill Woods there over on the left and along the top of that ridge to well past that solitary tree on the right which sits above the London Road to the south of Saxton Grange. Horses, archers, knights. Forty thousand strong. Banners, armour, anger. Unimaginable!

Onwards we go and down the narrow, twisty road towards that old church tower there in the midst of the trees. Coming down in to the village, as we are, from the south-west corner, the lane is far more bendy that the late 1700's map suggests and, indeed. many alterations to the road seem to have taken place in these past two centuries. But the map we have here shows that Saxton, or Saxton-in-Elmet as it was once, previously, known, must have certainly been an important little village in it's own right. The enclosed hall with the village all along it's western edge is so very prominent on the map with that lane completely encompassing it's secure grounds. What of the roads to and from it two centuries ago? How do they lay, comparing them with today's roads? Now away to the west, past the church yard, still runs Dam Lane, which was once called Silver Street, and is, or was, the lane to the water mill we came across before on our travels. To the north goes Cotchers Lane, as it does today, which we have also met before on its way to Towton, whilst to the east we see three thoroughfares on the map, the lower one is Headwell Lane, complete with the impressive said well, still there today, leading over to Barkston.

Saxton's Head Well

The upper one also still wends it's way to Scarthingwell through Dintingdale, but the middle track is now run down to no more than a mere footpath. This certainly must have been a very well-used lane in it's day as it used to lead to the local windmill that stood on the rise to the east, alongside the Towton to Sherburn main road. Though the windmill is not noted upon this particular map of the late 1700's, the mill was still certainly shown on a touring map of 1720 beside the road and next to the milestone marking 178 miles to London. Back in the village and earthworks of some note are also to still be found directly to the east of the main street in what was eventually to be the manor hall gardens. Whose work they originally were is no longer known as they have never been properly dug or investigated, though they were certainly quite extensive. So what of the details of the present-day village? The stream runs around the three sides of the old hall grounds, from the slope that has the previously mentioned Head Well, down alongside the western main street, complete with its divers bridges to the houses there, and then flows into Dintingdale and back away to the east.

To quote from local traveller and author Edmund Bogg writing one hundred years ago, "In the reign of Edward I, Alice de Laci gave to Margaret Kirkton (daughter of Alexander de Kirkton, sheriff of Yorkshire), her damsel and great favourite, the bodies and lands (holden in villeinage) of Ralph Brown and George Saxton, both of Lede. The grant says, "I. Alice Laci, have given to Margaret Kirkton, my mayd servant, my manor of Saxton and five score and two acres of arable land in Saxton, whereof twenty acres lie in a place called Towton-dale, and two 'placeas' of pasture lying at Mayden-castell, and the mill of Lede. Witnesses: Sir William Vavasour, Richard Tyas, John Reygate, Gilbert Singleton."

One generation later and it is noted that the village was in the possession of Sir Roger de Saxton who founded a chapel there, dedicated to St. Mary, in the year 1292. The parish church itself is dedicated to All Saints', which is usually an indication of great antiquity, and in the reign of Edward III the said church is listed as belonging to the hospital of St. Leonard of York. The chancel arch here is certainly a late Norman affair. Sadly, as with so very many of our local churches, it was 'restored' in the Victorian period and much was thus lost of it's great antiquities.

Saxton Church with Dacre's Tomb.

Saxton Church pre 1909 with earthen road and school behind to right of photo.

SAXTON, a part of the honour of Pontefract, and the fee of Ilbert de Laci, was subinfeudated to the family of Peytefin, or Pictavensis, to whom the Lacis had granted the manor of Headingley, near Leeds. These Pictavenses appear to have been of a charitable turn of mind, for parts of their domain of Headingley were granted by them to the monks of Kirkstall, and no small and invaluable portion of Saxton was handed over to the hospitals in York. The first conveyance I have to mention is that set forth by a charter without date, but which, by internal evidence, may be placed as of the year 1150:-
"I, Robert Peytefin, gave to the hospital of St. Peter's, York, that right and advowson which I held in the church of Saxton in alms, and a certain parcel of land in the town, and besides this the back of a certain hill, which is called' Maydencastell,' as the old ditch descenceth in the water toward Lede, and then by the top of the hill toward the east by the old ditch unto the way coming from Saxton, and thence by a certain thicket that there descends into the water, with the common of pasture of the same town. Moreover, be it known that I have granted to the aforesaid poor as much land in the fields of Saxton as in Woodhus, in wood and plain, until I can acquit the land of Wodehus, and the said poor have well and in peace their land, viz, Woodhus. Witnesses-Robert, the Dean (of York); Simon, the canon; Hugh, son of the dean; Cuthbert, Prior of Gisburn."
"Roger Peytefin, son of the said Robert, confirms the gift of his father of the aforesaid land. Witnesses-Robert the dean of St. Peter of York, Master Robert Scot, Hugh, the canon, son of the dean, Adam Peytefin, William, his brother."
Then follows the charter of confirmation of Henry de Laci, the chief lord of the fee, and the munificent founder of Kirkstall. His charter bears no date, but it is quite coeval with the above.
"Be it known to the Archbishop of York, and to all the chapter of St. Peter, and to all the sons of Holy Mother Church, as well present as to come, that I, Henry de Laci, and my wife and my heirs, have granted and confirmed to God and the poor of the hospital of St. Peter of York, all the lands which Roger Peytefin, my man (or tenant) gave and confirmed to them by charter - viz., as much land in Saxton as in Wudhusum, in wood and plain, free, quit and discharged from all customs and human services as free, pure, and perpetual alms, so that I, Henry, nor my heirs will take no distress for default of any service that Robert, my man, ought to do to me and my heirs, that we may be partakers in the prayers which are made in that holy house day and night in life and death. Amen. Farewell. These being witnesses- Osbert the Archdeacon, Gilbert Laci, &c."
"Know ye all, seeing or hearing these letters, that I, Roger Peytefin, have granted and given, and by this my charter confirmed to God and the poor of St. Peter of York as much land in the fields of Saxton, with the common of pasture, of the same town, as there is in Wodhus, in plain and in wood, until I can free to them the land of Wodhus, and then the brethren of the said hospital shall have well and in peace the land of Woodhus, as free and pure alms, and I shall have my land of Saxton, except the virgate, and the side of the hill which is called' Maydencastell,' and the common of pasture, as it is contained in the charter of my father. All these things J have confirmed to the said poor, for the hearth of my soul, and for the souls of my father and mother, and of all my ancestors, that we may be partakers of all the benefits and prayers which are made in the house of God day and night. These being witnesses- Robert the Dean of the church of St. Peter, Adam Peytefin, William, his brother." Robert de Botevillin, was Dean about 1186.
Between the years 1250 and 1300, we find further confirmations of these grants.
" Roger Peytefin confirms to the poor of the hospital of St. Peter of York all the donations which they have of the gift of his ancestor, in the towns and territories of Saxton and Woddehus, together with the right of the patronage of the church of Saxton. Witnesses-Sir John Dayvile (one of the Archbishop's officials in 1283), Sir John Vavasour, Sir William Rithre, Sir Francis Tyas, Knights."
"To all that shall see or hear this present writing, Roger, the son of Thomas Peytefin, greeting in the Lord.. Know ye all that I have confirmed and ratified all the donations which Roger Peytefin and Robert Peytefin, my ancestors, have given and granted to the master and brethren of the hospital of St. Leonard of York, of all the lands which they have of my fee in the territory of Saxton and Wodehus. Witnesses-Sir John Vavassour, Gilbert Bernevale Kt., William, Rector of the church of Rithre, Roger Saxton. Dated at York, 5th Ka1., July 1260."
"Be it known to all, as well present as to come, that J, Brother Swane, keeper of the hospital of St. Peter at York, by the common counsel and assent of my brethren, have granted and given to Lambert, the son of Ringolf, and to his heirs, half a carucate of land which belongs to the church of Saxton, with an its appurtenances, within the town and without, rendering to this house one mark of silver. Witnesses- WaIter the son of Raynulf, &c."

In 1461, at the time of the battle of Towton, it would seem that the village of Saxton was in the hands of the St. Ley or Sallay family and had been so for quite some time. But not long after that battle the last remaining member of this family, Olive, daughter of William, was married to William Hungate and the ownership changed once again.  In the church yard, to the north of the church, is Lord D'Acre's tomb, which was also restored in the 1870's. Lord D'Acre, or Dacre, was always supposedly buried astride his horse. At least so local legend had it. During the restoration it was indeed reported that his body was found to be in an upright position and the skull of a horse was there before him. The William Hungate mentioned above is reputed to have collected many of the bones of the dead and interred them between the tower and Dacre's tomb in the century following the fight. Glover, visiting the church in 1585, was told by the locals of Saxton that "Lord Dacres was slayne by a boy at Towton field, which boy shot him out of a burtree, when he had unclasped his helmet to drink a cup of wyne, in revenge of his father, whom the said Lord had slayne before, which tree hath beene remarkable ever since by the inhabitants, and decayed within this few years. The place where he was slayne is called the North Acres, whereupon they have this rhyme:-
"The Lord of Dacres
Was slayne in the North Acres."

Edmund Bogg prior to 1902

See the latest addition to Saxton churchyard - the Battle of Towton memorial, erected 2005 in the Mediaeval Battles page.

Another strange tale from Saxton with regard to the battle of Towton is that supposedly both morn and evensong were over in Saxton church before the worshippers were even aware of the battle. This seems hardly possible, as the village was far too close, in full view of the hostilities if not actually in the centre of them and the sounds of the fight were supposedly heard at Hazelwood Castle which is more than a mile away. No one said interpreting the accuracy of local tales was easy!

Saxton 1849

Image produced from the www.old-maps.co.uk service with permission of Landmark Information Group Ltd. and Ordnance Survey

The pump yard opposite the church and the other overgrown pump yard further along Main Street

The historic Hungate family line continued from this period right through to where it finally ended with the death of Sir Charles in 1749 and then the family estates passed through his sister Mary to her husband Sir Edward Gascoigne. It would seem that this was not exactly viewed as a perfect situation by one branch of the Hungate family in later years as a court case developed over the ownership of Saxton in 1833 with William Anning Hungate challenging the Gascoigne's position. It all came to nothing though and the Gascoignes continued to hold the estate.

Saxton Church from the north west over the old farm circa 1970

The old barn on Dam Lane opposite the church. Circa 1970 - now gone.

Diagonally opposite the church is the lane to Scarthingwell (or Scardingwell as it was also known) which exits the village along Dintingdale and that is the way we are heading. This is another narrow country lane following the line of the stream with passing places for today's traffic. Hardly a spectacular road and yet what it has seen in it's time beggars the imagination. All along the northern bank, on our left, were the battle lines of Towton in 1461. Hereabouts is where Lord 'Bloody' Clifford was supposedly ambushed and killed on his way back from Ferrybridge, the day previous to the fight. Local tradition says he was shot in the throat by a headless arrow. Where the tale came from is impossible to deduce, but the description of the arrow being 'headless' seems particularly specific. It is also said that his body was buried in a heap of others near the site. Nothing has ever been recorded of where this might have been. Yet the short valley's history seemingly goes back much further than the mediaeval period as I am informed that when work was being done on drains here some decades ago it was found that the system had Roman origins. Even more questions of which we are in need of answers, come to mind. Roman? What connection is there here with the four centuries of Roman domination? To date we have no positive information.  At the end of this historical short road it brings us back on to that, past and present, main route from Tadcaster to Ferrybridge once more.

Carrying on with our tour of the history around this area, here we sit in Dintingdale, next to the A162 road. Now the A162 is, by any stretch of the imagination, hardly an emotive title, but just what importance did this thoroughfare perhaps once have? The stream which runs through Saxton, and flooded so badly last winter blocking the main road through the village,  leaves that settlement and comes down the Dintingdale valley where it crosses under the main road here on its way through to Scarthingwell and beyond. Some years ago this under-road drainage was recognised as originally Roman. Could our Roman road, found recently between South Milford and Sherburn-in-Elmet have passed here as today’s road does? It looks as though
that is a quite likely possibility.

Just to the north is situated Saxton Grange Farm, site of a locally famous murder in the 1930's. Details on the Folk of Elmet page.
On we go. We now turn right, heading on south up the hill, where the windmill once sat up on our right, and then the road levels out as we enter ancient Barkston. To our right is the lane to Saxton that enters said village by the Head well – hence it’s unimaginative title ‘Headwell Lane’. At the junction of this lane is to be found a parish boundary stone similar to the one which now forms the base of D’Acres Cross south of Towton. The recess in the top of it could mean it was a leper stone, or it could well have been the socket for a, now missing, top section. We don’t know for certain. Now this very small village has many legends, not least of which was that it was the ‘centre’ of Yorkshire. Its actual claim to immortal fame is as a meeting place, a sort of parliament for the locals starting during the 8th or the 9th centuries.. They called their administrative areas Wapentakes. Meetings of this kind usually took place by a dominant tree, and in this particular case it was a giant ash. To call the village Barkston Ash is actually incorrect; the village is named Barkston, whereas it is the whole wapentake that is Barkston Ash. That said wapentake covered nearly one hundred thousand acres. So the meetings held here were certainly of great local importance in their time. Just to add yet a little more confusion, this village is also sometimes listed on old maps and documents as Barcheston or Barkeston or Barkstone. Sadly the present offering of their important tree is now hardly to be recognised – the last one being cut down a year or so ago (2000) and a new one planted. I suppose Barkston Twig could perhaps now be a far more fitting title. In that famous reckoning book of the 11th century we are told, “In Barcheston Saxulf had one carucate of land to be taxed. Land to half a plough. Ilbert has now there one sokeman with one plough. Value in King Edward’s time, ten shillings; the same now.”
 

BARKSTON, the hamlet from which the Wapentake derive ,its name, is partly in the parish of Sherburn, and partly  in that of Saxton. At the conquest the manor was given to Ilbert de Laci and it continued to be a member of the honour of Pontefract, though some of it (the fourth part of a knight's fee) was in the barony of Sherburn. We have met with some traffic in its lands already; 4th ides of February, 1228, the Archbishop grants to Robert de Barkeston and his heirs, a bovate of land, which Nicholas de Fonte holds in Barkeston, with toft and appurtenances, and with the said Nicholas, in exchange for the toft which the said Robert held in Sireburn, with its appurtenances. According to the account of John de Santon, Receiver of Pontefract, in 1274 John Welby paid 5/- for 18 acres of land in Barkston, including 5/- for a tenement, 12 acres of land, which Legros de Sherburn held at the terms of Martinmas and Easter. In 1350 a fine of £7 is paid for four acres of land and tenements in Barkston, in the hands of the lord of the fee, by reason of the minority of John, son and heir of John Dringe; and in 1367, Sybil, who was the wife of John Dringe of Barkston, pays to the lord of the fee, £ I 3 6s. 3d. in part payment of £26 13s. 4d. for her maritage. Robert, Abbat and Convent of Kirkstall, gave the tithes of sheaves and produce (ploventuum) to the Prebend of Fenton of 24 acres of land in Barkeston, and abandoned all claim of pasture or common against the Archbishop of York, or his successors, on account of the said land, or any land of the fee of the said lord Archbishop, without his consent. Sir Adam Paynell Kt., exempted the barons of Appleton from all suit of the lord of the fee for a tenement which they held in Barkeston. Alice, wife of Robert de Barkeston, and daughter of Robert de Ryedale and Alice, his wife, gave 4 acres and I rood of land in Melmerby to Fountains; she likewise, when relict of Robert de Towne
man, gave half an ox-gang there,
The village has given a name to a knightly family long since extinct. In the 3rd Richard I., 1199, Odo de Barkeston paid a fine of £106 13s 4d. for marrying without a licence a woman in the King's gift. In 1199, Odo de Barkeston, and Hawisa, his wife, entered a suit in the King's court on the feast of St. Edmund, 20th Nov., to recover possession of his land and mill at Monkton, which had been taken into the King's hands. They were opposed by William Fitz Ivo, and appear to have been partially unsuccessful, for, at a later period, we find the same

Odo and Hawisa seeking to recover the mill, which as yet remained in the King's hands. It is exceedingly probable that these two men were kinsmen, most likely cousins. Perhaps William Fitz Ivo is the same man as William de Barkeston, who is mentioned in the Rotuli Clwrtarum in a charter, "Ad pacem Domini Regis," dated 29th December, 1216, along with other knights, who appear to have conspired against the King, and by that charter were pardoned. Their tenure appears to have been a quarter of a fee in Barkeston, held by the Archbishop. William, son of Odo de Barkston, gave to the hospital of St Peter, of York, the tithes of his windmill, near Barkeston, in the fields of Saxton. Robert de Barkeston has been mentioned above. In 1284, Thomas de Barkeston held Barkeston; his son Walter, having been in the battle of Dunbar, aiding the Scots against the English; an inquisition of his lands was taken 27th Edward 1., when the jurors find that Alice, who was the wife of Thomas, father of the said Walter, held a messuage and 24 acres of land in dowry in Barkeston, of the heirship of the said Walter, and which said tenements ought to have reverted to the said WaIter, if he had stood to his fidelity to the King. Another inquisition tells that Alice held a messuage and 80 acres of land in Barkeston in dowry, which were forfeited by his defection. At the time of the first inquisition the jurors did not know whether WaIter was dead or alive, but he was absent, and, if living, was still connected with the Scots. There has been a taint in the family at this time of which we know nothing at present; in 1277 a Roger de Barkeston was an outlaw.
In 1262, Robert de Barkeston, and Alice, his wife, gave half a mark for a brief ad terminum respecting land in Lincoln; and Elizabeth, relict of Adam de Barkeston, Isabel and Hawisa, her daughters, gave to David de Cawood, Abbot of Selby, 1266-9, one messuage and one ox- gang of land in Haddlesey.
Notwithstanding Walter de Barkeston's attainter, the lands passed from his father ,to his heir. In 1316, John, son of WaIter, son of Thomas de Barkeston, was one of the lords of Barkeston, the other being John de Selby, who was certified as such, pursuant to a writ tested at Clipston, 5th March, 1316. Stephen de Barkeston, 'manucaptor of William de Parys, was Knight of the shire, returned for Lincoln in 1315. WiIliam de Barkeston, son of John, son of Walter, succeeded his father in 1329, and on the 8th ides of February, 1339, he did homage to the King for the lands and tenements he claimed to hold of him in Barkeston, acknowledging himself to hold of the King there one messuage and the fourth part of a knight's fee, sending to the Archbishop 16/10, and doing suit at the court of his manor of Sherburn-in- Elmete from three weeks to three weeks, This service was repeated 29th Sept., 1343. The testamentary burials (see p. 87) furnish us with a few more links in the chain of descent. Edward Barkeston died in 1556, as also did Anne Barkeston, his widow. Peter Barkeston died in 1610. Margaret Barkeston, who seems to have been the daughter of Peter and Margaret, (?) his wife, was one of the waiting maids of Lady Elizabeth, the wife of Sir Henry Savile. She bore to Sir Henry an illegitimate son, who took the name of Robert Savile, and received from his father the gift of the manor of Howley. Hunter says" in this son centred the talents of the family; and it was a great object with Sir Henry to release out of entail as much as possible of his estate, that he might re-establish a family in the posterity of this son," who became a knight, and married twice; first, Anne, daughter of Robert Hussey; and secondly, Isabel, the daughter of Alveray Copley, Esq., of Batley Hall. He had issue a son, who became the famous Sir John Savile; and by the second wife, a daughter, who was married to Francis Brakenburgh, Esq.
There are two coats of arms ascribed to the family. According to an old roll of arms, circa, 1592, the armorial bearings of Edward Barkeston, gent., in the Baliwyck of Skyrack-cum-Barkeston, were, Argent, a fess, doubly cotised gules, between three fleur-de-lys, sable. The other is, Arg., a fess, sable, cotised gules between three fleur-de-lys, azure - evidently a mere differencing.
The tithe corn of Barkeston belonged to the treasurer of York, as Prebendary of Newthorpe. Barkeston possesses a Wesleyan Chapel. The hamlet is in the Tadcaster Union and County Court district. W.W. 1882.

This obviously old village, small though it is, boasts two inns, The Boot & Shoe and The Ash Tree Inn. There is debate as to whether the centrally situated Boot & Shoe has a very long history as a public house, but the other facility, sat alongside the main road; The Ash Tree Inn, has certainly been in existence for at least two centuries or more and in it’s early days it was known as The Barkston Inn.

Here are the Poll Tax records for 1379:-

Laurel Farm Barkston Ash - date unknown

John Hatfield's shop - the small sign reads Brooke Bonds Tea - date unknown

Pickers at rest - date unknown

My thanks to the Lancaster family of Laurel Farm for these photos of Barkston Ash's past.

Barkston in the 1890's
 

Holy Trinity Church Barkston Ash

War Memorial

To the Glory of God and in memory of the men of Barkston Ash who made the supreme sacrifice in the Great War 1914 - 1918

H. Bayston,  T.Z. Birdsall,  E.W. Birdsall,  R. Bickerdike,  R. Calvert,  E. Craft,  T.E. Eastwood,  C. Lazenby,  J.W. Nattriss,  C.A. Thornton,  F.Whittingham.

1939 - 1945

L.Kendrew,  G.C. Macauley

Turning from the main road into the village alongside the present ash tree takes us down the main street, passing The Boot and Shoe on the left and Laurel Farm to the right, then on through the narrow buildings and out on to the long, flat, straight lane which leads us on towards Church Fenton.

Fairly clear in it’s self-description; Church Fenton was the town in the fen that had the church. Not that long ago it was still known as Kirk Fenton. While any late history of the village would have to concentrate upon its long Royal Air Force connection and the airfield situated there, we will leave that for a separate article. Now the fenland hereabouts was not reduced to it’s present farming state until the early part of the 1800’s. Prior to that it was still largely a wildlife haven of some size stretching from Barkston to the river in a wide, swampy sweep.

Church Fenton Church - 2004

Edmund Bogg tells us, “The chartulary of the priory of Helaugh, to which a large portion of the lands of Fenton were given, throws some light on the history of this place. It was late in the thirteenth century before very much reclamation had taken place, and the church then was very incomplete. About that time Nicholas de Percy, of Fenton, when William, the chaplain,
was vicar, gave a rent of one penny out of a toft to find a light to burn before the image of the Blessed Virgin; perhaps there seems no great splendour in such a gift, nor can we ascribe a very high development to the Fenton of that day. The place from which the rent was derived is, however, interesting. It is the homestead of William, son of Gamel, at Biggan, a township which in after years the Canons of Helaugh always speak of as ‘New Biggying’. The land about the church was called the ‘Aldfield’, (Oldfield), and there the parson was located, dwelling about the ‘head landis’. We find such names as a John de Brunne, a Robert de Wextow, Henry de Huk and a Robert Golyff.”

Through this thinly stretched and extended village we  continue and out towards the north, passing the old air base as we go. On the left we come to the old windmill, a well known landmark for pilots. This is due east of Dacre’s Cross on Towton battlefield and that cross can be seen clearly from the road here. On north a little further and we arrive at Ulleskelf. There can be few villages hereabouts, or anywhere else for that matter, with a more distinctive name. Sadly little more than that can be said about the place. Many Celtic artifacts have been found in the local area but it would certainly appear, from its name, to have been of Nordic origin and it is recorded in later centuries that it was the seat of the Shillito family. There was still a river ferry here as late as the end of the 19th century. But it seems to have always been something of a back water with one exception, during the early building of York Minster this is where the stone was shipped from. The local Uskell family donated funds to the Hospital of St. Peter in York. Over the decades finds around this spot have been numerous, bronze, flint and ancient pottery. So we now head further east along the river bank to the next village, Ryther.

Here, only a little further along the river bank, is this next small village with a great history, in its inhabitants if not so much in its present buildings. It would seem that the Ryther family took their name from this village. The village likely taking its name from the old Norse for a settlement in a clearing ‘Riodr’. Great people the later family must indeed have been. A Ryther Castle certainly existed in the time of King Stephen and when Appleton nunnery was founded, early in that reign, it was one of this old family that signed the deeds. The old village church here is most certainly a jewel. It started out life in the pre-Norman period and is dedicated to ‘All Hallows’.
The Ryther family tombs are here. At least some of them are. The family married into the Aldburgh family and shared ownership of Harewood Castle, living there for several generations. In the 15th century Sir William Ryther married Isabella, daughter of William Gascoyne of Gawthorpe. The head of the family in 1461 fought at Towton on the Yorkist side. One of the tombs in the church shows a knight in full armour with a collar representing the Sun in Splendour, King Edward’s emblem. Sadly, no name nor indication of any kind is upon its alabaster marble casing. But the likelyhood is that this is that of the Towton knight as that of Gascoygne, buried in Harewood church shows a similar badge of loyalty. Over the river, directly opposite, were the lands of the Fairfax’s. yet another local knight who took to the Yorkist side at Towton. Certainly seems to have been some kind of link between all these who seemingly changed alligiances just before that great battle.
Another shows the figures of a crusader and his lady – possibly Sir William and his wife who lived here in the late 12th century. The family heraldry is with three crescents, usually a mark of honours won in the crusades. Next to the church is an area still known as Hall Garth and the remains of the moat of that long-gone castle are still very obvious. What would we do without the likes of Edmund Bogg, recording so much for us about our region. Back once more to see what he had to say about it one
hundred years ago:- “Architecturally a treasured shrine of historic remains, the delightful simplicity observed within the interior harmonizing with the charm of its surroundings. Here the most unimpressionable cannot fail to be arrested by the venerable form and the prevailing antiquity, as it were, blending tradition and romantic story, and themes sufficient to rouse the least
fertile imagination into active interest. It consists of entrance porch, nave, south aisle and chancel; the solid simplicity of the chancel arch, devoid of ornament, shows the rude character of the semi-barbarous early Gothic work. The first Danish or Saxon church, possibly erected not later than the ninth century, has been a very lowly edifice, including chancel and about half the length of the present nave. The chancel arch and two rude round-headed windows, built in the north wall are relics of the early structure. The growth of the church is very apparent: the lengthening of the early English nave, and the after addition of the early-decorated south aisle, which the introduction of the hagioscope in the old arch, so arranged that the Ryther family, seated in this aisle, couls witness the Elevation of the Host; also the difference in character of the two piscinas: the one in the north or original wall – Norman; the other in the south wall – early decorated. Built into the outside walls are fragments of an earlier church, specimens of diaper work, and other antique features illustrative of the growth of this church and the reason of its varied styles of architecture. “ “It is very rarely one finds such a display of tombs and effigies of warriors and ladies as are to be seen here, reaching the entire length of the south aisle; and although much of their history is forgotten, maybe they still rest on from century to century. How hushed and solemn is the hallowed spot as we linger by these monuments of the dead, shafts of glimmering sunlight gilding the effigies with an almost ethereal radiance! The first is a fine tomb of fine alabaster, on which reposes the sculptured figure of a knight in plate mail; a helmet, minus the crest, is on his head, and a hound lies at his feet. The collar round the neck represents the ‘sun in splendour’ – a badge for distinguished conduct given by Edward IV. At each end of the tomb are arcaded canopies, in which are the figures of three knights in armour and three ladies; on the side are four spaces with canopied enrichments containing four knights and four ladies. “ “The next tomb of Portland marble, decorated with tracery and bunches of grapes, is fine in detail and finish; around the edge of the cover have been inserted ribbons of metals and also shields, enamelled in heraldic colours, but which have been ruthlessly removed by the hands of the despoiler: this is supposed to be the tomb of Sir Ralph de Ryther. Resting on the floor, near an ogee arch in the church wall, is the figure of a lady in the costume worn during the latter part of the thirteenth century; her hands, resting on her breast, clasps a heart, which she seems to be in the act of presenting to the church. At the extreme end of the aisle is the time-worn effigy of a Crusader in chain armour; by the side of the warrior rests his lady, wearing a wimple, her hands clasped in the attitude of prayer.
A William de Ridre, whom the effigy is supposed to represent, was a celebrated warrior in the time of Edward I. ; he manfully assisted that monarch in the Crusades and Scotch Wars. The hardship and cost of these long campaigns seem to have brought the family into rather straitened circumstances, for, in 1308, Sir William de Ridre, Knight, acknowledges that he owes one William, a clerk, forty shillings, which, in default of payment, may be levied on his goods and chattels. The poem on the siege of
Caerlaverock says –

‘William de Ridre was there,
Who a blue banner did bear.
The crescents of gold so radiant.’
John de Ridre, his son, was also a great favourite with Edward II. He was the king’s constable of Skipton Castle during the great raid of the Scots under Randolph and the “Doughty Douglas” and he seems to have continued his active military career; in 1321 he was constable of Corfe Castle, a royal appointment of value, and a year or two later we still find him constable of the castle and honour of Skipton, and also keeper of Purbeck Chase.

John de Rithre’s services were equally accepted by Edward III, (the change of ‘d’ for ‘th’ and the converse is a common one in vulgar folk-speech; so spelling is the least correct), on the 16th July, 1327, in an order to Thomas Deyvill to deliver to John de Rithre the issues received by him from the manor of Scarthecroft during the time when he had custody thereof, as the manor was taken into the King’s hands by reason of the quarrel of Thomas, late Earl of Lancaster; and not to meddle further with the said manor, which was held of John by Robert de Rithre, deceased. On 5th July 1327, is an order to the exchequer to cause Matilda, late wife of Robert de Rithre, to whom the king committed the custody of two parts of Robert’s lands, in his hands by reason of the heir’s minority, of the extent of the manor of Scarthecroft, charging her with the extent of the manor of Rithre, the escheator being ordered not to intermeddle further with the manor of Scarthecroft, and to restore the issues thereof, retaining in the king’s hands the manor of Rithre, because it was found by inquisition taken by the escheator that Robert held at his death the manor of Rithre of the king as of the honour of Pontefract, and that he held the manor of Scarthecroft of John de Rithre by the service of a quarter of a knightly fee, and that of William, son of the said Robert, is his next heir, aged twelve years.”

Towton to Ferrybridge from a 1720 Tour map

Out of the village of Ryther we go and poddle east down the road a little further. On our way we pass close to the River Wharfe for one last time before it finally swings north and then exits into the greater River Ouse. Wharfedale is ended.

A mile further on and we find we are now entering the village of Cawood. This name may well have derived from the Celtic title ‘coed’ – a wood. Or perhaps from some wood belonging to someone called ‘Ca’, or any derivation of same. Who knows? But it seems certain that the ‘wood’ part of its name is most certainly descriptive in its most simplistic manner. Unlike today when farming has cleared the whole flat area hereabouts.
The River Ouse, alongside which the village sits, has long been that main thoroughfare between York and the Humber. Cawood has most certainly seen a great deal of the comings and goings of travellers and tradesmen over these past two thousand years. This grand history is not easy to perceive from the small village as we see it today, unless one has a few hints and uses them to look a little closer.

For these hints let us take a step back one hundred years to the writings, once again, of our old travelling friend from Leeds, Mr. Edmund Bogg. He writes about Cawood:
“In imagination we see a vast forest, full of fens, stagnant water, and marshy wastes. The rude dwellings of our remote ancestors, stood on the highest ground adjoining the tawny waters of the Ouse, around which was a strong enclosure to protect them, as from the swords and spears of men, as from the wild beasts of the forest, at that time numerous.”  Bogg is recounting what it could well have been like in that place before the coming of the Roman Eagle.  “As time rolls by, we see passing, the galleys of Imperial Rome, that richly decorated vessel, probably containing Constantine, Emperor of the world, gliding along the bosom of the Ouse to York, the beautiful city of old, and the home of Emperors, one thousand eight hundred years ago. Merchants from the east sailed hither, bringing bales of oriental goods. Great military roads opened communication throughout Britain, land that had only been waste and dreary brought forth fruit in abundance. When the Romans left Britain a great change came over the scene: ruin, havoc and desolation in the place of former peace and prosperity.”
“An ancient writer says- ‘The whelps of the “Barbarian Lioness” arrived in three ships of largest size at the bidding of an ill-omened tyrant. They were soon afterwards joined by a much larger brood, who professed themselves ready to meet any perils for the sake of their worthy hosts, for which they required that certain supplies should be furnished them; these being provided for a time, stopped ‘the dog’s mouth’, but the strangers, anxious for a quarrel, demanded larger supplies than could be given, which, not forthcoming, the war of centuries between Saxon and Celt commenced.’ –“

Now Bogg’s tale here is that of the early legend of England rather than just that of our small part of the island. and he omits to mention that there was, reportedly, a small Roman caister, or fort, at this important spot. But he goes on:-
“Over these miseries we pass to the frightful invasion of piratical hordes from Skania, (Scandinavia) who sailed up the Ouse in their war-galleys, leaving ruin and devastation on all sides. Then along the riversides might be seen the plunder of churches and the glare of burning town and city.
Cawood, standing by the ever-flowing riverway, received its full share of disaster, but from the time of the first Wulstan the castle and town gradually rose to great importance. The last invasion of the Sea Kings was in 1066. Entering the Humber and thence passing up the Ouse, they landed at Riccall, near Cawood, from which place they swept the country around, leaving such havoc and ruin that a century was needed to repair, and to this day (1898) the old people of the district tell many a legend about their ancestors fighting the savage Dane, evidently being entirely unconscious of the fact that they are the Danes’ descendants.

Cawood 1851

Image produced from the www.old-maps.co.uk service with permission of Landmark Information Group Ltd. and Ordnance Survey
Trade has apparently given Cawood a fair by prescription. For the towns of his other manor houses Archbishop Walter de Grey obtained a little concession. On the 23rd August 1239, King Henry III, grants the Archbishop a yearly fair at his Manor of Ottele for two days on the vigil and day of St. Mary Magdelene, 22nd July, and a weekly market on the Monday.
There are two events that render Cawood renowned in history: one for sheltering, in his adversity, that great ambitious churchman, Wolsey; also the place where the most celebrated banquet was given by Archbishop George Neville, the brother of Warwick, the king-maker.
The first mention of the place is about 935, after Athelstan’s celebrated victory over the invaders at the battle of Brunanburgh. Cawood, like Sherburn, was given by the victorious king to the see of York, as a home for the northern prelates. A very fine specimen of ancient gateway and the tower of the castle still remain, and early English windows are still prominent features in the adjoining farm buildings. The meadow in front is yet called ‘Bishop’s Close’. Around the meadow are distinct traces of the moat.
Alongside today gateway there is a path leading to this Bishop’s Close that Bogg talks about and a display board has been set up there with some in formation on the historical site and a drawing of what it must have once looked like. Certainly a grand affair, as the remaining gateway indicates, stretching over to the river some good distance away.
I don’t think I can describe this place any better than Edmund Bogg did, so I’ll let him have his rein,

“From the twelfth to the sixteenth century this castle was the home or shelter of many of the noblest in church and camp. Henry III and his Queen rested here awhile when journeying to Scotland to visit their daughter Margaret, wife of Alexander III. Here dwelt Marguerite of France, second wife of Edward I. During the time this old warrior was fighting the Scots, and when the noise and storm of war was hushed, we can fancy the monarch hastening to Cawood, to the society of his beautiful young bride. From this time the castle rose to its greatest height of feudal grandeur. Here gathered around the gallant king were the crusading knights of many an ancient house, who had withstood the shock of arms when fighting the Saracens on the plains of Palestine, and shared in all the dangers of the last great Crusade, and afterwards followed the banner of Edward into the wilds of Scotland.

The old tower now looks desolate and mournfully isolated, debased by the company of farm buildings, but let the screen of five centuries roll away, and the Windsor of the North stands forth in all its majesty. The walls are thick, and, in time of war, strongly guarded: he who comes in peace or war passes over a strong drawbridge and thence, through the watch tower, to the castle. Men-at-arms guard the massive gate day and night, the deep moat, full of stagnant water (its traces are still to be seen), embraced two sides of the castle or palace, on the other side Bishop’s Dyke and the brown waters of the Ouse formed a natural protection.
Within this area is ample space for the accommodation of king, archbishop, baron, knight and squire, men-at-arms, retainers, cooks, scullions and every attendant necessary to uphold the dignity of a castle in the days of feudalism.

Edward II and his queen made Cawood their home on several occasions. In 1319 Queen Isabella, being the guest of the Archbishop at Cawood, two renowned Scottish knights, Douglas and Randolph, with a chosen body of troops, lightly armed and mounted on small but active horses, by a swift march burst through Yorkshire, with the hopes of making the Queen their prisoner, but by a fortunate accident a Scot fell into the hands of the English, and from him they received warning of the projected attack on Cawood. Hurriedly collecting the force York could muster for protection, the Queen was apprised of her danger and brought to York, and sent thence to Nottingham for greater security, to the disappointment of the Black Douglas and Randolph.

“Hush ye, hush ye, little pet ye,
Hush ye, hush ye, do not fret ye.
The Black Douglas shall not get ye.”

Archbishop Bowett, 1407-1426, was a generous guardian of the fabric; it was he who built the wall and the great hall. He not only kept the castle in good repair but was commended for his unbounded hospitality. Drake says, “And truly, if the consumption of fourscore tuns of claret, which is said to have been yearly spent in his several palaces, can make us guess at the lesser matters, it must argue beef and ale in abundance.” His grave was opened in the seventeenth century and a ring was found bearing the inscription “Honneur et Joye”. A most appropriate motto.

The chapel attached to the castle, which is often mentioned in deeds, stood about midway between the gateway and the river, somewhere near where today’s main road runs.

The Castle / Palace as it looked 250 years ago.

In 1464, George Neville, brother of the great Earl of Warwick, last of the barons and kingmaker, was elevated to the See of York, and it being customary for every incoming prelate to give a feast, Neville gave at Cawood the most varied and sumptuous banquet ever recorded in history. In the preparation of it nearly 2000 people were employed. The contents of the bill of fare were as follows:-

Wheat - 300 quarters, Pikes & Breams - 608, Porpoises & Seals - 12,
Oxen - 104, Muttons - 1000, Porks - 304,
Wild Bulls - 6, Veals - 304, Kids - 204,
Swans - 400, Capons - 1000, Biterns - 204,
Pheasants - 200, Woodcocks - 400, Egrittes - 1000,
Quales - 100 doz., Fowls - 200 doz., Cranes - 204,
Pigeons - 4000, Geese - 2000, Coneys - 4000,
Heronshaws - 400, Partridges - 500, Curlews - 100,
Plovers - 400, Peacocks - 104, Mallards & Teals - 4000,
Chickens - 2000, Pygges - 2000,
Stags, Does & Bucks - 500
Venison Pasties - 1500 heated - 4000 cold,
Dishes of Jellies - 300, Baked Tarts - 4000,
Baked Custards - 3000, Hot Custards - 2000
Ale - 300 tuns, Wine - 100 tuns Ypocrass - 1 pipe
This required 1000 cooks, 500 kitcheners and 500 scullions to prepare it and 1000 servants to wait on the guests.

Some time afterwards Neville was stripped of all his estates, arrested and cast into prison; thus the great banquet would in after years be food for his serious reflection.

Cardinal Wolsey found solace here in the midst of his troubles. Having upset the king he lost his seal of office and he was transferred to being the Archbishop of York while ordered to stay at his archiepiscopal house at Cawood. He arrived there late in 1530, his reception being warm and enthusiastic. He immediately set about the repair and restoration of the palace. He also set about organising his enthronement in York as Archbishop of that great city. He made himself very popular in the area, his friendliness and generosity being well marked.
But just three days before his installation to this important clerical post he was arrested by the Earl of Northumberland on the king’s orders. High treason was the reason cited. He left on 6 November, he never faced the court, on his way south he fell ill and died at Leicester Abbeyon 29 November . His last words were addressed to Sir William Kingston, “If I had served God as diligently as I have done the King, He would not have given me over in my grey hairs; however, this is the just reward that I must receive for my worldly diligence and pains; that I may have to do him service only to satisfy his vain pleasure and regarding my godly duty.” The story of his downfall is depicted in the children's nursery rhyme of Humpty Dumpty.

Wolsey’s successor, Edward Lee became Archbishop of York in 1531, and didn’t help the castle’s condition any by converting it into a prison. Sometime after this it was used as the headquarters of the Royal Commissioners “appointed to govern the north and put down Popery and rebellion.” Huh? The arrival of Mary Queen of Scots sparked off the Catholic rising in the north in 1569. The uprising failed and many were put to death. Oh, those Scots…
But we also have the ‘local lad made good’. George Montaign was the son of a Cawood farmer and became chaplain to the Earl of Essex. He progressed through Dean of Westminster, Bishop of Lincoln and Bishop of London. When the See of York became vacant in 1628 the King asked his opinion on whom should be given the post. He replied “Had’st thou faith as a grain of mustard seed, thou would’st say to this mountain ‘be removed into that see’. “ The King laughed – and Cawood had one of it’s own sons back in the palace as the Archbishop of York

Covering the extremely ancient and historical village of Cawood even as lightly as we so far have on this tour of our area we really shouldn’t leave it without a mention of just a few of its quirks and fancies; the present-day bridge that was put there in 1872 to cover the Ouse, replacing the ferry boat that had been the only crossing for centuries at high-water, and the ford that was able to be used at low-water. Let us go back just over a century to Edmund Bogg for a story that predates this now-old bridge. He tells us;

“One night the carrier’s waggon from York to Cawood was crossing the river by the ferry at the latter place, the usual mode up to that time. The night being wild and stormy, the wind blowing with great force on the cover of the waggon caused the ferryboat to become unmanageable, forcing it down the river, where, coming in contact with a barge, the waggon, full of people was upset into the river; fortunately only one life was lost, viz., the carrier, who by giving up his last chance of life saved his wife’s. A boatman came to the rescue of two people, the driver and his wife Bessie, struggling in the river. Leaning over the side of his boat he got hold of both of them but being unable to save the two, finding his strength unequal to the task, he said, “Ah can only save yan, which’s it te be?” “Save Bessie, “ was the noble answer from the drowning carrier, as he fell from the grasp of the boatman into the dark waters of the river, which, if I mistake not, never gave back his body.”

During the English Civil War the town and castle were the site of many skirmishes. The castle was held for the king but finally had to surrender in 1644 to Lord Fairfax.  The House of Commons resolved on 30 April 1646 that several castles in the County of York, Cawood being one of them, be unoccupied, and no garrison kept or maintained in them. On 27 November of that year the Northern Committee of the Commons ordered at 2:00pm that Cawood Castle be reduced to a ruin. A good part of the stonework and timber was re-used though, in building the Palace of Bishopthorpe, to the north, from then the residence of the Archbishop of York.

Back to our good friend Edmund Bogg in 1898:- “The village of Cawood, with its brick dwellings, red tiled roofs, old doorways and panelled oak rooms, ancient hostelries with their sanded floors and quaint furniture; the crude hasps and hinges on some of those old doors harmonise well with the age of the village. In Wistowgate stands the Old Grange, a 15^th century building, with a curious porch and two panelled oak rooms; opposite, in the meadows, is the remnants of Keysbury Hall, which belongs to the Lady of the Manor.

Here a Court Leet is held every three years, to collect the fines from all who hold copyhold property. The land on the south bank of the Wharfe, near Cawood, is suited for nearly every kind of vegetable produce, in the planting and gathering of which employment is given to the female working community. The bridge is the rendezvous for all able bodied men in want of employment, who, with hands deep in trouser pockets, perambulate that quarter; now and again scanning the old river as if expecting some Danish war galley, or the stately barge of the Prelates of old, to sweep round the curve of the river; or perhaps hoping for some rich prize to fall to their lot without delving for it.

In conversation with one of these strollers on the bridge, an old native, he with a deep drawn sigh, which went far down the aisles of the past, said “Aye, they had many rum doin‘s down at yon castle. They allus made their feasts last ‘em fer many a day, an‘ I‘ve heard it tell‘d that yer dinner dance lasted all t‘year. Aye, but them wa rare times, ya could eat an‘ drink as much as ivver ya liked for nowt. They mun have been rich folks, fer when I were a lad ‘ave heard oud men say, that heaps o‘ gold an‘ silver is buried on this river an‘ a can tak ya to a spot where a hide chuck full a‘ gold is buried, if anybody ‘ll tek‘t trouble at dig for ‘t”

The church, with its grey tower, stands as a sentinel of the past by the side of the Ouse. In the olden days the ford over the river was near this place, and here stood the old tithe barn. Pulled down some half-a-century ago (remember this was written in 1898). Some portions of the church no doubt date back to the eleventh century; the arch of the east porch is ‘Early Norman’ and some of the pillars and arches in the interior, which are very curious, belong to the twelth century.”

As a final comment here is a directory of the village written by Thomas Langdale in 1822...

"CAWOOD, a market and parish-town, in the wapentake of Barkston-Ash, liberties of St. Peter and Cawood, Wistow, and Otley; 5 miles from Selby, 7½ from Tadcaster, 10 from York, 12 from Pontefract, 186 from London. Market, Wednesday. Fairs, Old May day and September 23, for horned cattle, &c. Principal Inn, the Ferry House. Pop. 1,127. The Church, peculiar, is a vicarage, dedicated to All-Saints, in the deanry of the Ainsty, value, p.r. !£34. 14s. Patron, the Prebendary of Wistow.

Cawood was formerly one of the chief places of residence of the Archbishop of York, who had here a magnificent Palace or Castle, in which several of the bishops died. It was obtained for the see of York from King Athelston, in the 10th century, by Archbishop Wulstan. Alexander Nevil, the 45th Archbishop, is said to have bestowed great cost on this palace, and in have adorned it with several new towers. Henry Bowett, the 49th Archbishop, built the great hall; and his successor, Cardinal Kempe, erected the gate House, the ruins of which are all that remains of this once magnificent building.

The celebrated Cardinal Wolsey, after residing here a whole summer, and part of the winter, was arrested at this place, on a charge of high treason, by the Earl of Northumberland, and Sir Walter Welsh. The Earl had orders to conduct him to London, for trial, but his death at Leicester, on his journey, terminated the business.

His blessed part to heaven, and slept in peace."

In 1642, this castle was garrisoned for the King: and was surrendered to Sir John Meldrum, for the use of the Parliament in 1644; and two years afterwards was dismantled by order of Parliament. --Drake, Rapin, &c.

In 1724, Mr. Wm. James built an hospital here, for four poor people, and endowed it with land at Skirlaugh, (East Riding) value, £20. per annum."

So now we finally move on. Heading out of Cawood down the narrow street from the bridge towards the south west we soon leave the village behind. Now between the two extremely historical places, both ’mere’ villages today, of Cawood and Sherburn-in-Elmet there would seem to be very little to excite the enquiring mind along this six miles of flat country lane. Or is there? Certainly there is nothing at all in the way of towns, and the only villages and hamlets lay some way off the road route we are taking. And yet….

All along the side of this lane runs a narrow waterway. Nothing much to look at nowadays - but it is still known as the Bishopsdyke. This channel runs alongside the road all the way from Sherburn-in-Elmet to Cawood. Or, more truly, it is the road that runs all the way alongside the water channel. It is reputed to be the thirteenth century work which was originally designed to carry stone from the Huddleston quarries in the Sherburn-in-Elmet area to Cawood - either for use in the building of Cawood Castle or for the building of the Minster at York - or both. Hence it carries it’s present title of the Bishop’s Dyke.

Also along this route we do pass close to a few places that may have historic interest:

Let us take a look at some of these. A mile or more south-east of Church Fenton is Little Fenton, a small hamlet with Hall Garth, a moated site, it has been said for several generations that ghosts dwell here. Then there is Fenton Grange which was built in 1766 upon the site of a far more ancient dwelling. Biggin, on our right at we go, is a small hamlet whose name seems to reflect ’Beginning’ and is allied to Biggin Grange, which is, as many such such places are, of varying periods in construction. One part being only a couple of centuries old whereas the earlier part has a basis in the Tudor period. This house is also famed for its ghost, which seemingly appears in the form of a lady dressed in a costume that indicates the seventeenth century. Her silks richly embroidered.

A hundred years ago Edmund Bogg tells us: “Many years ago, the farmer then dwelling at the Grange returned home late from Cawood, in a rather jocular mood, having taken “a wee drappie too much spirit,” and being thus full of courage, began to mock and imitate the unearthly visitant, but he was so furiously assailed that he never again ventured to disturb the wanderings of the uncanny one."

"The township of Biggan is nearly midway between Sherburn and Cawood. Biggan - to build a shelter - one of the outposts of Teutonic cultivation - in the parlance of the Conons of Helaugh, the ‘newbiggyng ‘ and possibly its beginning does not stretch back that far as there is no mention of the place in Domesday.”

Bishop’s Wood, to the left of the road would seem to reflect the ownership of the wooded area, Castle Hill, also to the left of the road, indicates a structure well lost in time that must have been some sort of fortification. Then we come to Sherburn Airfield. The Elmet monthly has discussed the history of this recent site more than enough to leave it well alone in this article - but it is a piece of local history - ongoing- that has its own place in the annals of Elmet.

Past there and we come to the end of the fens and the start of radical things such as hills and valleys. We are coming to that ancient of all local places - Sherburn-in-Elmet.

The town was granted a Wednesday market in March 1223 by Henry III which changed to a Friday market in 1239.

Let us go again to our friend Thomas Langdale and see what he now has to say about the ancient village of Sherburn-in-Emet when he was writing back in 1822.

"SHERBURN IN ELMET, a market and parish-town, in the wapentake of Barkston-Ash, a part in the liberty of St Peter; 3½ miles from Aberford, 6 from Ferrybridge, 7 from Tadcaster and Pontefract, 8 from Selby, 12½ from Leeds, 15 from York, 183 from London. Market, Friday. Fair, September 25, for horses, linen, &c. Principal Inn, Red Bear. Pop. 1,144. The Church, peculiar, is a Vicarage, dedicated to All-Saints, in the deanry of the Ainsty, value, £10. 17s. 1d. p.r. £130. Patron, the Prebendary of Fenton.

The nave of this church is purely Saxon, and the work of some one of the first Archbishops, who became possessed of the place. --Whitaker. Near the South east corner of the churchyard, appears to have been a detached Chapel, among the rubbish of which, was dug up the head of a very rich and elegant cross. --Ibid.

At this place formerly the Archbishops of York had a palace, and which once belonged to King Athelstan; not a vestige remains, except such parts as may appear in the walls of the church, which was built out of its ruins.

Here is a Grammar School and Hospital, founded in 1619, by Robert Hungate, Esq. who endowed them with £120. per annum, for the clothing and maintenance of the boys, twenty four, in the hospital; and £12. per annum, to the master, payable out of lands in this parish, of Robert Oliver Gascoigne, of Parlington, Esq. A subsequent endowment of £12. per annum, was awarded to the master, on a late enclosure. There are eight boys upon the foundation, who are admitted at the will of Mr. Gascoigne. There are four exhibitions of £7. 10s. each, to St. Johns College, Oxford, and this is one of the schools entitled to send a candidate for Lady Elizabeth Hastings' exhibitions. Master's salary, £34. and assistant, £13.13s.4d. per annum. --Carlisle.

On the 15th of October, 1645, here happened a sharp skirmish between the King's and the Parliament's forces, in which Sir Richard Hutton, Sir Francis Carnaby, and several other officers on the King's side, were slain. --Hargrove.

Sherburn and the neighbourhood are remarkable for a particular species of Plum, called the Winesour."

Um. Let’s see if we can fill in a detail or three!

Seemingly, according to many historians, named from the shire-burn or ‘clear stream‘, Sherburn-in-Elmet was the capital of the eastern frontier of the kingdom of Elmet: a division, the boundary of a kingdom, the eastern limit of Elmet Setna, the last fringe of inhabitable land on this side. The region beyond, to the north and east, was interminable marsh, forest and fell - a wilderness, wild and desolate all the way to the River Ouse.

So, in the name at least, we have another direct connection back to that old British kingdom of the fifth and sixth centuries. We have already visited Barwick-in-Elmet on our travels and several other places that once boasted the same title, though they, sadly, no longer carry it. Here in Sherburn it still proclaims its proud history.

In Sherburn-in-Elmet was sited King Athelstan's palace, and for some short time in the early 900’s this, now small village, was effectively the capital of England,

Sherburn-in-Elmet, doubtless registers a heritage and a Christianity dating back to Celtic times. Here was a church previous to Athelstan's reign, and a list of the 'utensilia' date about 900, still extant in the late1800‘s, mentions a peal of six bells and four hanging bells. Nearly every vestige of this church has disappeared, and so has King Athelstan's palace, later the Archbishop's Palace. The site however is to be seen in earthworkings on the north slope of the church’s hill, along with part of the moat which enclosed it on the west and north side.

Well, here we all are, we have now finally arrived in that most ancient and historic village,  Sherburn-in-Elmet. Such an evocative name. In Old English this ancient place was called ‘scir+burna’ which is said to mean a "place at the bright or clear stream". So then we have it written later as Scirburnan in around about 900AD and it is later listed as Scireburne in Elmed in the Domesday Book of 1086AD.

We are now travelling along the road which is coming in alongside Bishop Dyke from the east upon ‘Moor Lane’ to enter this old, and constantly expanding, village of Sherburn-in-Elmet, a place which, as is often the case, poses far more questions for the history enthusiast than it ever gives them answers. And all of those questions are extremely intriguing. For a start let us just take a look at the layout of this ancient place. We are coming in along Moor Lane to the crossroads where it joins with the main north-south road which is running along the edge of the dry ground that adjoins the fenland we have just crossed from Cawood, to the east. Prior to the start of the twentieth century there was little at all of Sherburn-in Elmet more than one hundred yards to the east of these crossroads.

To north and south from these same cross roads Sherburn-in-Elmet didn’t extend very much more than a couple of hundred yards either. Taking into account the position of the Roman road, which was lately found between Sherburn-in-Elmet and South Milford, it would seem that this present-day routing mirrors, to some extent at least, that Roman road-line of 1800 or 1900 years ago.

But the truly ancient centre of Sherburn-in-Elmet is likely to have been to the west of this Tadcaster-to-Ferrybridge road, up there on the mound, unimaginatively called Church Hill, at the top of Kirkgate, which is now honoured only by that very old church. So, just what have we really got here? It doesn’t appear like very much at first glance.

So perhaps it would seem that what we have to try and do is to start with the mental picture of a two thousand year old, pre-Roman, Celtic village site, of the Parisii or Brigantii, which is situated upon a very convenient hill-top. A hill top that is sited far enough away from that local fenland to be comfortably dry and is also surrounded by a goodly amount of agricultural land. This residential position would certainly seem to have worked quite well for those who lived there in its early days as it obviously grew, both in size and importance. In later years it’s connecting lane, from the hill down to the Roman road, would have evolved into the main town street for traders.

Now there we have a nice, simple enough picture and it is one that is mirrored in many villages in this country, for example there is the village of South Milford, stretching out from the site of Steeton Hall to the same main thoroughfare, being the closest and the most obvious. But what it very likely means is that the settlement of Sherburn-in-Elmet, or whatever it was previously known as, existed before the Roman road did. Now this is a very likely scenario, considering the site, but it is not guaranteed, nothing is ever guaranteed. The present road line could well have been developed many years after the Roman road fell into disuse and only then was the village slowly stretched out to meet this later line of transportation. That, sadly, is an only too-common problem with local history - somehow there always seems to be at least one other possibility.

So, taking that point into consideration, have we any other striking questions about this, otherwise seemingly simple, but so important, road configuration? Well yes, or at least, possibly. You may have noticed that I am seeming to be running scared here. And trust me, that is with very good reason. Any suggestions of an alternate roadway, to the present configuration, are based on evidence that is tenuous to say the least. But, when all is said and done, this is the internet - so I’ll throw it in anyway. I am brave like that!

The thought we are having goes something like this:- the village of Sherburn-in-Elmet sits a few hundred yards west of the road line. A mile to the south is the village of South Milford which was originally based upon Steeton Hall - which also, like Sherburn-in-Elmet, sits a few hundred yards west of the same present-day road. If you take a look at a map you may well notice that, further to the south, the village of Lumby is also the same and, in the opposite direction, further up there to the north of Sherburn-in-Elmet, the village of Saxton does too. Nothing striking in that to be sure but it does make you wonder. Doesn’t it? PLEASE tell us it does! For these villages we have listed are not just set back from the present day main road line but therefore are also set back from the ages-old fenland edge. So any direct road or track that may well have been running between them would likely sit upon the ridge of higher, and drier, land. So this drier route would make lots of sense, but what proof is there of such a way? Well none really, but it would be a likely position for a track, and, of course, it does so happen that the lower present-day road (mirroring the old Roman route) is still called Low Street in Sherburn-in-Elmet. Also there are the tales of a tunnel going between Sherburn-in-Elmet church and Steeton Hall gateway. Is it possibly that an early Roman road was built to follow the high, dry path of a native track and could this ’tunnel’ be old Roman drains worked into the land at the same time as this ‘high’ street? There is certainly something actually there - and it starts under one of the pews in the church, but just what was it?

Alright, I’ll be up-front, if just this once.

To be honest this perambulation is not so much a part of Sherburn-in-Elmet’s ‘known’ history as a possibility that I wanted to throw out to all you good folks of the area in case any of you know anything that could perhaps fit in with, or disprove, this picture I am painting.

So please, if you now presently own, or, indeed, if your family have ever owned, any property or properties upon this upper line, that runs to the south of the church in Sherburn-in-Elmet and through to South Milford, then would you be kind enough to let us know if you have any details that would help us in our on-going investigations. History is in no way set in stone - pardon the obvious pun - but it is always wide open to new information, to new ideas. We ‘know’ so little, but books sometimes make us think that we most likely know it all. It just isn’t so.

Now let us take a look back at some of the previous residents of our Sherburn-in-Elmet, we are going way back, nearly two centuries ago into the 1820’s - and who knows, perhaps you may recognise some family names here!

Allen Rev. Thomas, curate of Saxton,

Anderson Joseph, corn miller,

Clayforth Henry, flax dresser & dealer,

Clayton William, butcher,

Dale George, flour dealer

Dawson George, shoemaker

Dean Jonathan, gentleman

Foister George, grocer, draper and teazle dealer

Forster Thomas, grocer and flour, &c. dealer

Forster Stephen, boot and shoe maker

Hawkins Thomas, blacksmith

Hawley Francis, blacksmith

Hawley John, blacksmith

Hey John, maltster

Hough Robert, vict. Red Bear, (magistrates' meeting house)

Hugill John, officer of excise

Huntriss Joseph,grocer and linen draper

Hunter Simeon, grocer and linen draper, &c.

Hunter William gentleman

Jameson Rev. Thomas, curate

Jefferson Robert, boot & shoe maker

Lewis Edward, surgeon

Lynch Thomas, flax dresser & dealer

Mitchell Thomas, grocer, druggist, draper and hosier

Oudell Hannah, glass and china dealer

Pick George, victualler, Rising Sun

Pick Sarah, grocer

Pollard John, victualler, White Swan

Rowley Peter, flax dresser and dealer

Roysdall Hannah, grocer and linen draper

Scaddlethorp George, tailor

Scott William, surgeon

Smith Edward, teazle merchant, Sherburn lodge

Spence William, farrier

Standlidge John victualler, Butcher's Arms, (and butcher)

Summers John, flax dresser

Thompson & Summers, flax dressers and dealers

Tindall Robert, wheelwright

Wadsworth Jonas, maltster

Waterworth Thomas, flax dresser

Wilson John, victualler, New Inn

Wilson William, butcher.

It is certainly most interesting to note from the above list that Mr John Standlidge of the Butcher’s Arms actually also employed himself as a butcher! I think it says it all really. Do we possibly have any of these Dale’s? Any of these Dawson’s? Are there to be found any relatives of the Summers’, Tindall’s and Pollard’s out there today? Please let us know - especially if you have any family history to help add a little more colour to this glorious Sherburn-in-Elmet’s picture.

One very influential local family were the Hungates and they certainly left their mark on the village in the form of the Grammar School which is sited at the crossroads alongside the courthouse. This was built by one Robert Hungate and dates back to 1656.

TESTAMENTARY BURIALS IN SHERBURN CHURCH.
This list of burials is comparatively large, but considering that Sherburn was one of the seats of the Archbishop, and one of his chief manors, having living within its boundaries a number of eminent people, it is rather singular that not one name of eminence is to be found in the list. We find, however, the last resting-places of six of the Vicars, and also the name and grave of one of the chantry-priests, Peter Omphray.
25th Jan., 1441, Robert Rawden, Esq., of Aberford, made his will nuncupative, proved 26th July, 1442, whereby he commended his soul to God Almighty, his Creator, and gave his body to be buried in the Parish Church of Sherburn-in-Elmete.
24th act., 1445, Richard Burton, of South Milford, juxta Sherburn-in-Elmete, gentleman, made his will, proved 19th Nov., 1445, bequeathing his soul to God Almighty, St. Mary and All Saints in Heaven, and his body to be buried before the altar of St. Catherine in the Parish Church of All Saints, Sherburn.
l0th July, 1447, Magister Robert Torre, Vicar of Sherburn, dying intestate, administration of his goods was granted to Thomas Torre, clerk.
27th Aug., 1455, William Haxby, Vicar of the Parish Church of Sherburn-in- Elmete, made" his will, proved 25th Nov, 1445, giving his soul to God Almighty, St. Mary and All Saints in Heaven, and his body to be buried in the quire of the Parish Church of Sherburn.
9th Jan., 1475, Thomas Worthington, M.A., Vicar of the Parish Church of Sherburn-in-Elmete, made his will, proved penult January, 1475, giving his soul to God Almighty, St. Mary and All Saints in Heaven, and his body to be buried in the quire of the Parish Church of Sherburn.
l0th April, 1481, Katherine Calverley, of Milford, made her will, proved August 31st., 1484, bequeathing her soul to God Almighty, St. Mary and All Saints, and her body to be buried in the north side of the Parish Church of Sherburn before the image of St. Mary Magdalene.
6th April, 1485, Peter Omphray, of Sherburn-in-Elmete, chaplain, dying, administration of his goods was granted to.William Sympson, of Huddleston, Esq., made his will, proved 20th Feb., 1517-8, giving his soul to God Almighty, St. Mary and All the Saints, and his body to be buried in the Parish Church of Sherburn.
Aplld Aberford, 17th act., 1483, John Lincoln, of Aberford, made his will, proved 1st Feb., 1483-4, giving his soul to God Almighty, his Creator, and his body to be buried in the Parish Church of Sherburn.
1502, William Smythe, alias Boswell, to be buried in the Churchyard.
1510, Robert Boswell, to be buried in the Parish Church of Sherburn, "upon the son-side of the erose, neight unto my ancestors."
1st April, 1542, William Fenteman, clerk, Vicar of Sherburn, made his will, proved 18th July, 1542, giving his soul to God Almighty, St. Mary and All Saints, and his body to be buried in the quire of the Church of All Hallows in Sherburn, under the stone of the Worthingtons, and to have the day of his burial set in brass according to the memory of the said Mr. Worthington.
16th Aug., 1556, Edward Barkeston, of the parish of Sherburn-in-Elmete, made his will, proved 12th Oct., 1556, giving his soul to God Almighty, St. Mary and All Saints, and his body to be buried at the south end of the altar of St. Thomas's quire, in the Parish Church of Sherburn.
28th Aug., 1556, Anne Barkeston, of Barkston, in the parish of Sherburn, widow, late wife unto Edward Barkeston, made her will, proved loth act., giving her soul to God Almighty, St. Mary and All Saints, and her body to be buried in the quire where her husband lyeth, in the Parish Church of Sherburn.
19th Sept. 1557, Sir Richard Hemeslay, Vicar of Sherburn, made his will, proved 15th act, 1587, giving his soul to God Almighty and All Saints, and his body to be buried in the Church of All Hallows of Sherburn.

26th Sept., 1667, Margaret Coplay, of Steveton, in the parish of Sherbum, made her will, proved 4th Oct., ISS8, giving her soul to God Almighty, hoping through Jesus Christ to be saved, and her body to be buried in the chancel of the Church of Sherbum, before the sacrament.
26th Feb., 1690, William Rishworth, of Sherburn, made his will, proved l0th March, IS90, whereby he commended his soul to God Almighty, hoping through the merits of Jesus Christ to be saved. and gave his body to he buried in the Church of Sherburn.
29th April, 1694. Edward Marsh, of Sherbum-in-Elmete, clerk, made his will, proved 2nd April, I695, whereby he gave his soul to God Almighty his Creator, and Jesus Christ his Redeemer, and his body to he buried in the chancel of the Church of Sherbum.
30th September, 1606, Peter Barkeston, of Sherburn, gent., made his will, proved 7th April, 1610, giving his soul to God Almighty, &c., and his body to be buried in the Parish Church of Sherburn.

The church is of great antiquity. So let us once more fly back a hundred years or more and see what Edmund Bogg of Leeds had to say about this place

.

Image produced from the www.old-maps.co.uk service with permission of Landmark Information Group Ltd. and Ordnance Survey

“In the grandeur and massive proportions of the Norman Church, and the emblazoned scroll, telling of knightly fame and glory, decorating its west window, the historian and antiquary can each find inspiration and delight; and the diversity of its landscape views, the sweetness of its orchards, hedgerows, and pasture land, the rusticity of its winding lanes, the charming outlook over the Fenland, stretching from its doors to the Wolds are so combined as to give those in quest of health and pleasure ample reward for their visit.”

Never one to avoid overpowering elaboration he continues:-

“The towers and spires of minster, abbey and church appearing in the middle distance, with the smiling cornfields and meadows we now gaze over, is the reward of many centuries of toil by the descendants of the Angle and wild Norseman, who steered their galleys up the tawny waters of the Ouse and its tributaries, and made their settlements on the banks thereof. ‘A History of England’ in little the Sherburn domain happily epitomizes.”

“As a structure, the church of All Saints, in which the works of at least eight bygone centuries survive, is a type of superior dignity and imperishable endurance. Within its now existing walls the voice of Aldred, the last Archbishop of the Saxon race, and also the first Archbishop of the Norman regime, has resounded, and we need not doubt that the men who looked the haughty Norman in the face as the battle raged at Senlac (when the noble patrimony was rested by William from the ill-fated Harold) knelt in prayer for the success of their king and the safety of their wives and little ones on the same spot as the wives and little ones kneel in prayer today.”

Image produced from the www.old-maps.co.uk service with permission of Landmark Information Group Ltd. and Ordnance Survey

“Here, within the old church at Sherburn, has been witnessed the consummation of the highest ambition of chivalric enterprise, and all the pomp and circumstance attending the great victory of Athelstan at Brunanburgh. Here, during the persecution of the Papists, lights, we are told, were oft seen burning on the high altar, during the silence and solitude of night. Hither came the Hungates and others to worship in secret; how they obtained admission was beyond the knowledge of human ken, yet tradition mysteriously whispered of certain underground passages which led from their halls hither.”

The said passages from the church we have already touched upon, something resembling passages are certainly there, but perhaps they are no more than the remains of the cellarage of buildings that were part of Athelstan’s palace. Only direct investigation will tell the truth.

Here is a little bit of information for you that might just seem more 'close' than the information given in books about our past. Not all of our Elmet's local 'history' comes from that legion of, quite often inaccurate and over-romantic, Victorian writings, and, most thankfully, there are many various investigations and discoveries within this ancient area of ours that are always on going. Some of these sites or 'digs', as they are popularly known, have the potential of revealing to us some great and important finds while many others discover only little or nothing at all. But, doubtful as this might sound, it is certainly just as important to know what wasn't there as it is for us to know what was there if we are ever going to obtain a much clearer picture of the past than that which we have now. So even those 'digs' that actually come up with no dramatic discoveries what-so-ever are still very much contributing an important part of our understanding of the past and of our local history.

The cottages from the road.

Here we can give you a very good example of this. Taking our tour of this area, we have been poddling around right here in dear old Sherburn-in-Elmet and we still continue hereabouts because right there on Kirkgate, up until recently, in the centre of the village, half way between the church and the main crossroads with Low Lane, the village of Sherburn-in-Elmet used to have a small garage. It was set on the right as one goes down the hill from the church, and it stood just alongside the remaining painted wall we show in the first photograph. It is only during this past year have we seen this building's demise and, indeed, that white wall has now joined it. For now, as this article is being written, that old garage plot has been flattened in preparation for proposed building works involving the planned provision of a new residential area which would offer Sherburn-in-Elmet around another two dozen houses. The company involved in these possible works is Moorfield Developments Ltd., of Doncaster and one of their directors, Mr. Steve Jackson, kindly invited me to view what was going on upon their site.

Before going any further with the finalisation of any of their planning Mssrs. Moorfield Developments Ltd. applied to an archaeological concern to have a survey of the whole area and report on all, if any, historical finds that this site may have to offer. This involved work by the archaeologist in studying the remains of the buildings still above ground, the records from such as the early Ordnance Survey maps, any available early photographs and then finally something of a Channel 4, Time Team looking dig with the aid of a JCB digger running several trenches across the site to see what, if anything, might still lurk beneath.

One bricked-up front door.

The most obvious remains that are still visible are those self-same white walls we have mentioned which front onto and alongside the main road's footpath. Stone built, now plastered and painted on the roadside face, these walls are just about all that remains of a pair of old cottages. They were, in today's parlance, semi-detached, each with a door and single window onto the main road. This could be seen from the rear of the remaining wall as the doors and windows have, at some time past, been bricked up. Have a look at the photo which shows the doorway of the uppermost dwelling.

Each of these two small living places were about fifteen feet wide and they both stretched back around about some twenty feet deep from the pavement. Hardly likely to be classed as mansions. The presumed depth of the cottages was determined by the wall alongside the site which was the side wall of the building and borders onto the farm next door. This wall showed signs of having contained a fireplace at some time in its past. Confirmation of this distance to the cottages' rear wall came from one of the trenches put into the site in that it clearly revealed the foundations of their back wall to be in line with the rear of the still-standing side wall. You can see these foundations quite markedly in the photo.

The foundations of the cottages.

Behind the cottages' rear wall, in what can only be presumed to be their yard, there was a small well. Only one well was found to be there and it must therefore also be presumed that it was shared between the two premises. It sits around eight feet from their back wall and it measures some 26 inches in internal diameter. Over the years it had become completely silted up, but the photograph shows it when cleared to within a foot or less of the original ground surface. It most certainly must have been of some depth in its day as the local water table is quite a way beneath this site, being, as it is, half way up Kirkgate hill.

The well.

From the work done here on this site a picture of sorts has formed of what this section of Kirkgate looked like during the eighteen hundreds at least. Between the farm and The Foresters public house there were first these two cottages, then a narrow passageway, perhaps some ten feet wide. Then another building comprising of three or perhaps four premises which also fronted alongside the footpath and reached to the driveway which accessed the pub's rear yard and still does to this day. If any further buildings stood behind these front ones then nothing remains to tell us of them. There would seem to have likely been yards behind them, in one of these at least stood the discovered well. From there right down to the footpath at the bottom of the slope, a few dozen yards away, there is no sign of anything but possible gardens. Though there is no proof of it remaining it is possible that this rear area was sectioned into the long, narrow strips that are found with such sites dating back to the mediaeval period. There is no actual proof of this though, all that can be said is that there were no substantial building behind these roadside ones.

Any details of the other building, between the two cottages at one end and the pub at the other, has had to be gleaned from old maps and early photographs as the digging done in the last century to place underground fuel tanks for the garage totally wiped out any possible on-site evidence.

So there we have it. Hardly earth shattering in the scheme of things but, never the less, an important niche in the history of Sherburn-in-Elmet and this area has been recorded for the future. As we said at the beginning, finding nothing is often just as important as finding something. It gives us the knowledge that, should we be looking for something in the future, let's say an extension to some newly discovered adjacent premises for example, we at least know not to waste our time looking in this area. An oversimplification, but I am sure you see the value.

Also in Sherburn we find this interesting site discovered in Spring 2002.

The grey roads are the present-day cum mediaeval ones

The green are some of the 20th century additions and the brown is the approx track of the 2000 year old discovery.

There it is! The track of a pre-Roman or very early Roman lane (this is going by finds upon it), set some four feet below the present ground surface in what was a shallow ditch with an added stone surfacing. To the north side of it are, seemingly, much later pits of varying sizes and depths but appearing to hail from the mediaeval period. No obvious reason, presently known, would indicate where this track once went to, or indeed came from, unless Sherburn-in-Elmet is much older than previously thought. Or as old, as I earlerly mentioned above, that local tales says it was. Doubtless there is much more to be discovered.

Members of York Archaeological Trust at work.

Just one last detail before we go out of Sherburn-in-Elmet, as we sit to the east of the old church; and it is a quote from Carlisle, writing a couple of centuries ago, “Here is a Grammar School and Hospital, founded in 1619, by Robert Hungate, Esq. who endowed them with £120. per annum, for the clothing and maintenance of the boys, twenty four, in the hospital; and £12. per annum, to the master, payable out of lands in this parish, of Robert Oliver Gascoigne, of Parlington, Esq. A subsequent endowment of £12. per annum, was awarded to the master, on a late enclosure. There are eight boys upon the foundation, who are admitted at the will of Mr. Gascoigne. There are four exhibitions of £7. 10s. each, to St. Johns College, Oxford, and this is one of the schools entitled to send a candidate for Lady Elizabeth Hastings' exhibitions. Master's salary, £34. and assistant, £13.13s.4d. per annum.” The family name Gascoigne we came across earlier in our travels at Aberford and at Lotherton, and the Hungates we are also about to meet up with. So off we go, heading back up Kirkgate towards the church where we reach a right hand turn which will take the traveller via Coldhill (I'm sure you remember we mentioned that in pre-Victorian days used to be named Bare Arse!) and on to Lotherton Hall. This roadway is called Sir John's Lane for around the first one hundred yards or so as it skirts Hall Garth beneath the church, before it becomes renamed as Coldhill Lane. Here, where it changes its name, just before it crosses the stream, there is another old thoroughfare off to the left with the age-old title of Laith Staid Lane. This is the ancient way from Sherburn-in-Elmet along the stream's valley to Huddleston Hall. And what a place this is, or at least was, in days gone by!

Sherburn-in-Elmet's All Saint's Church viewed from across Sir John's Lane. This mound, right across the picture, was the site of the original Romano-British village at the time of the Kingdom of Elmet.

Now this village of Sherburn-in-Elmet was once upon a time a part of the archiepiscopal estate of the Archbishops of York, and was supposedly to have been granted to said Bishops by King Athelstan. ( who ruled from 924 to 939AD.) But after the Norman Conquest of 1066 AD all changed and most of this region, that is around eastern (present-day) Leeds and the Sherburn-in-Elmet area, was in the hands of one rather great man, by the name or title of Ilbert de Lacy. He was, as one might expect,  a Norman lord who hailed from the Calvados region, and this whole area around Sherburn-in-Elmet, along with much, much more, was all part of his Honour of Pontefract. This, now great local lord died sometime around 1093 to 1095AD but this whole region still had many de Lacy family connections that lasted right through into the fourteenth century at the very least. So now let us take a look at just one of them.

Huddleston is an apparently something-and-nothing of a place situated not too far to the west of Sherburn-in-Elmet, it being only just a mile or so of a short stroll down Sir Johns Lane and then along Laith Staid Lane. It isn’t possible to say if Laith Staid Lane once ever crossed over Sir Johns Lane to then carry on down the back gardens of Kirkgate to Finkle Hill, but it certainly does run alongside the stream that skirted the old village church and the ‘palace’ area of the tenth century. Perhaps someone out there can help us with this; Sir John's Lane only goes a short way from Kirkgate to the bridge over the stream, from there it changes its title to Coldhill Lane (obviously a Victorian title).

Huddleston Hall July 2005

That, now small, stream carved out a decent sized valley over thousands of years and reaches up to a place of some great local importance one way and another. Huddleston, along with many other places in the area, was once, as we have said, listed as a possession of this great local lord de Lacy - but it is written in the documents of that early period as ‘Hunchilhause’.

Other spellings that crop up at various times are Hudleston, Hudelson, Huddlestun, Huddlestone, Hudereston, Huderston and Hiddleston.

At the time of the Domesday survey in 1086 AD this land was dwelt upon by a Saxon named Hunchel or Huddor. Now it would appear from the similarity that either the place too its name from him - or he took his name from the place. In Old English 'hudr' or 'huddel' meant a grouping or a heap - from which we still have 'huddle' together. This may well refer to the bountiful amount of good stone in the area.

Apart from the actual house, much converted over the centuries, not a great deal is to be found there now but the remains of the windmill and the stone quarry to the side of the valley that supplied a good deal of the fabric of the great Minster of York still echo a little of its past importance and connections.

As usual let us see what local historian Edmund Bogg had to say about the place and its people:-

"This family appear to have been ever brave soldiers on the battlefield; a Sir Richard Huddleston was made a knight banneret at the hands of Henry V on the field of Agincourt; Johan de Odelstone was with Edward I at the seige of Caerlaverock. One Ferdinand was a staunch cavalier, who took to wife Jane (daughter of Sir Ralph Grey of Chillingham), who bore him nine sons, all of whom became officers and fought in the cause of King Charles. William, the eldest, was made knight banneret by Charles for his gallant effort in recapturing the Royal Standard at the battle of Edgehill. His brother Richard, a lieutenant colonel, was slain at York during a sortie and repulse of the Roundheads, Sunday June 17th 1644.

The old hall has a wonderful chain of unbroken history stretching over a thousand years, before which it is speculative. It is now a farmhouse, and although much altered, still retains features picturesque and quaint. The shell of the chapel, built in the thirteenth century, is still remaining but not used for relegious purposes."

While Thoresby says:- "The quarry at Huddleston is also a delicate stone and has this peculiarity in it, that when the stone is mew dug out it is so soft that it may be cut or wrought with a knife, but afterwards hardens by exposure to the air, the colour is also pure white, so that not only chimney pieces, but monuments in churcges are made; it is little inferior to marble."

Tradition has it that Bishop Dyke, reaching from Sherburn to Cawood, was made deeper and wider and it's course cut straight by the Archbishops so that stone from this quarry might be floated down on rafts to Cawood and then by boat to York. In 1358 the Dean and Chapter of York took 'Huddleston delph' on a lease for a period of eighty years and afterwards for another period of nineteen years. The quarry is said to have been known and used by the Romans.

That isn’t the only confusing complication with this seemingly quiet and secluded hall.

Nigel de Huddleston is the first recorded member of the family to have the Huddleston surname which was recorded when he became a monk at the nearby Selby Abbey in 1110 AD, and his son Gilbert, continued to use it.

The northern family that took this name “de Huddleston” appear to have had close connections with the Norman barons and Bishops of Bayeux, probably indicating that they were themselves coming from the same region of Normandy. The names “Nigel” and “Gilbert” are of Norman origin. Yet the Saxon family already mentioned seem to have become tenants of deLaci (deLacy) and so it could be that they adopted Norman names in order to fit in with their new lords.

Both Gilbert, and a Richard, now also named ‘de Huddleston‘, owned property at Clementhorpe (outside York) in 1175. They also had other local lands in Hillam , in Wetwang and in Poppleton .

Another Richard de Huddleston who lived from around 1198 to 1250 is said to have married Alicia, the daughter of one William, son of Henry, of Garthorpe. The Huddlestons are certainly listed as having had lands in Garthorpe in or around 1223 and in 1296 one Richard de Huddleston, by license from Dean Sewal de Bovill, had leave to attach a chapel to his manor house.

"To hear divine service, this year in my chapel, kept in my court of Hodelston, yet so that on chief feast days I am to repair to the mother church of Sherburn." Richard was the last of the male line and his successor was John de Meaux or Melsa, who had married Beatrix the daughter of Richard, did homage to the Archbishop of York around 1298, for lands in Huddleston, Go Thorpe (or) Garthorpe and Youlthorpe, (the latter place being to the East of York) which presumably came with the marriage of Richard and Alicia and which John de Meaux had inherited with Beatrix.

This Sir Richard, oh yes, he had a knighthood, was the father of Richard , Beatrix (de Meaux) who died around 1287, and a son John, who lived from 1222 to 1252 (only thirty years), who married Joan de Boyville, of Millom in Cumberland., and probably had the other son Robert too. The younger Sir Richard died childless in around 1285, when the estates went to Beatrix and her husband.

John de Hudleston the second of Millom (note the single ‘d’) tried to claim Huddleston in 1287 from John de Melsa or de Meaux (after the death of Beatrix) but he was unsuccessful, and by 1304 the estates had passed on to the Grenefields and to other families.

One of these local families that was directly connected with Huddleston Hall were the Hungates. It is one of this clan who is credited with digging up the scattered bones of the Towton Battlefield dead and reburying them in great pits within Saxton village church a generation or so after the battle. Another, as mentioned at the beginning of this article, was directly responsible for the school in Sherburn-in-Elmet.

Confused about this small house‘s historical connections? Good, so am I! But this is the complicated way in which many houses and families lived and endured their way through the mediaeval period. While Huddleston passed from the ownership of the Huddleston family the said family did not die out. Many miles to the north west, in Cumbria, is the coastal town of Millom, ( note John de Hudleston mentioned above ). There was once an imposing castle in the town and in the 19^th century the records tell us, “This castle was built by Godard de Boyvill who first possessed the manor of Millom. His posterity Arthur, surnamed de Millom, Henry, William and Adam his brother, successively enjoyed it after him. But the last, leaving only one daughter, Joan, who was in the reign of Henry III married to John Huddleston, it was then transferred to that family, in which it has remained till the present time.” So the Huddleston family, while originating here - and then dying out here - certainly continued elsewhere, but that is not for us to investigate in our local tour.

Image produced from the www.old-maps.co.uk service with permission of Landmark Information Group Ltd. and Ordnance Survey

But here we are, carrying on with our ongoing tour of this region of ours we have already left both Towton and Sherburn-in-Elmet behind us and are now also about to say our farewells to old Huddleston, which we visited in the last issue of The Elmet. So if we stagger along our way from there towards the south-east through Huddleston Old Wood, we find ourselves …well, let us listen yet again to the century-old writings of Edmund Bogg and what he had to say, ‘ In the wood adjoining, called Huddleston Old Wood, are the remains of a double trench, and on the moor, in the direction of Newthorpe, are traces of similar entrenchments, evidently salient points in the vast system of entrenchments beginning at Barwick, and stretching hither, more or less, a distance of eight miles, guarding, in pre-Norman times, the only approach north between the Ouse and the Aire valleys.’

As our dear Mr. Bogg has stated, we do indeed come next upon Newthorpe (a Norse name for a new settlement) with the railway line running right through it. Newthorpe is in the parish of Sherburn-in-Elmet as is Huddleston but Huddleston was classed as a township as it was united with Lumby - which is, of course, well to the south of Newthorpe, and therefore on the opposite side to Huddleston. Nobody ever said that these things had to make any obvious sense.

At least the names of the streets seem straightforward enough. Hall Lane is fairly obvious and it takes little imagination to deduce what once lay along or at the end of Papermill Lane. The small area known as Chapel Hill also speaks pretty much for itself.

If we nip on back for one hundred and eighty years into the local records we find that around this area in 1822, according to Langdale’s ’Topographical Dictionary of Yorkshire’, Huddleston cum Lumby then had a recorded population of 184 souls while Newthorpe was also listed with some 83 inhabitants.

Go back even further to 1379 and the Poll Tax listings for that year show the following family names:-

Thome, Schephird (Shepherd?), Walker, Talour (Taylor?), Russell, Nauson, Bernom, Webster, Hill, Melton, Hedsam, Crane, Ade, Someer (Summer?), Steneby, Nawtehird and Suehird.

Just as a comparison, the same nineteenth century record shows Barkston Ash to have 251 inhabitants listed, Micklefield to have only 196 and South Milford to have some 631 people living there. How times, and some places at least, have changed.

The New Inn

Newthorpe now boasts an Inn with a difference. Squires motorcycle coffee bar has been in existence since the early 1950's. Now it has moved from Sherburn-in-Elmet's Kirkgate to Newthorpe with bigger premises. The New Inn was indeed relatively new - dating only from the latter end of the 19th century and now it serves the needs of motorcyclists and music lovers from a wide area.

We are now in a long sweep around the west of Sherburn-in-Elmet first heading towards the south and then to the south-east. What and where is next? Well here on our trail we find the old, in fact very old indeed, township of South Milford.

Coming down Whitcote Lane from the direction of Newthorpe the first place we come across is, perhaps, the most interesting place of all within (or slightly just outside) this old village. There, on the right of the lane sits Steeton Hall gateway. It is under the wardship of the National Trust these days, but what is it and what was it? South Milford in many ways mirrors Sherburn-in-Elmet in that it seems to have been centred to the west of the old north-south highway with a street running down to connect the two. This street is here called High Street whereas in Sherburn it is Kirkgate.

Gateway looking from the south circa 1895

What was Steeton Hall then? The search for information on that place is much troubled by the fact that there are two more Steetons in Yorkshire, and one just to the other side of Tadcaster. But whatever it was it was most certainly impressive. The gateway, which seems to be fourteenth century, was one of perhaps as many as four, all of which were connected by battlemented walls.Just a hint of these walls are left to each side of the gateway, but the lines of there previous existence are seen easily in the ground around the house there. Quite a size of ground they encompassed too! The Hall itself seems to have shrunk somewhat over the centuries and become a farmhouse. Within it though was once a pretty grand thirteenth century chapel. Families connected with this place include the Wilghbys, the Reygates and the Foljambes

One certainly curious tale is linked to this old house, that of the 'Steeton Rackett'. Around the outer wall of the section that was the chapel there runs a line of stone sculptured crests and shields, the central one of which seems to represent a lamb. This was known locally, in bye gone days, as the Rackett, Reckett or Reckling and was connected with ghosts and hauntings at the hall. Rather than have this story put down to me I will quote from an old book about the area which says, "The story of the Reckett - the smallest or weakest of a brood, be it lamb, kitten or whelp is variously described; one version reports that it was brought hither from the quarry during the building of the hall with the last load of stones and its effigy, to be seen on the corbelled table, and known as the 'Steeton Rackett', is thought to be the outward and visible sign of its having actually existed, now doomed for ever to wander around the hall for good or evil. This uncanny sprite is of a peaceable nature except when interfered with; then its rage is noisy and fearsome: whence we say, to kick up a 'racket'."

Steeton Hall gateway looking from the north 2004

Reading the carving around the front of the gateway (not shown above) from left to right.

(1.) Gules a chevron argent between 3 lions rampant or. This coat occurs also in ancient glass in the west window of Sherburn church, with the arms of Cardinal Kemp, Roos, Ryther, Vipont, and others. Also, on the south-west buttress of the debased tower, and on the outer door of the porch. These are the arms of Langton, of Huddleston and Farnley, near Leeds.
(2.) A bend indented with estoile in sinister chief. (? Reygate.)
(3.) A bend of 5 fusils conjoined at their obtuse angles. This bearing is upon an
oval shield set bendwise on the bracket. It represents the name and family of Reygate of Steeton. This coat with an annulet for difference occurs twice in stone upon the porch at Sherburn; and, without the annulet it occurs in the chapel opening eastward out of the porch, attached to a fragment of the beautiful cross engraved in Whitaker's Loidis et Elmete. One half of this cross was sent to Steeton Hall, and is still there, much decayed and very handsome; a striking object as one enters through the gateway. This Reygate coat, repeated in the several places where we have found it, informs us that great part of what now remains at Steeton was built by that family during their tenure.
(4.) Three estoiles, 2 and 1, and a canton dexter.
(5 ) A chevron between 3 talbots' heads couped. (Hungate of Saxton.)
(6.) A chevron with in talbots heads cross-croslets fitchy in orle. This may
probably be the second quartering of the Ryther coat, formerly, if not now, existing in glass in Harewood great hall, viz., arg, a lion's head erased between 8 cross. C1'oslets fitchy in orle azure.
(7.) Party per bend 2 bars; (or, over two bars a bend)
(8.) Reygate, with the anmtlet.
(9.) A chevron between 3 leopards' faces. (? 'Ventworth of Elmsall, or Pole of Hull; most probably Pole.)
(10.) A chevron bretessy between 3 storks' (?) heads erased.
(I I.) Quarterly of 4 a bend sinister.
(12.) Two bars between 8 martlets, 3, 2, 2, and 1.

(13.) A chevron between 3 fleurs de lys. (? Green of Mowbray & Horsforth, or Moor of Austhorpe, or Nelson of Sherburn.)
(14.) A . . . with a label if three points in chief. (? BiIkin, whose arms sometimes bore a label with three points. See the fourth shield in the chapel.)
( 15.) On a chief (or in chief) 3 crosses formy. (This coat is the third in the chapel;? Woodrove.) This coat may be the one mentioned by Gough as formerly to be seen amongst other quarterings on a large stone preserved in his time in the vestry of Sherburn, "which appears to have been a monument or part .of one." It belonged probably to a tomb of the Langtons, as it shewed the" lion and chevron" coat (No. I), impaling quarterly of 4, and in the third quarter" three crosses patty in chief."
(16.) Two bars gemels and a chief. (?Thornhill or Meynill.) 
(17.) A lion rampant. (? Everingham of Birkin.) The principal devices that
alternate with these shields on the corbel-table are a coiled and eared serpent, a man's head with a bird an estoiled boss, a wreathed head as on Roman coins, grotesque heads and mask, a monkey, another monkey with conventional tail over back, a ram's head, &c.    W.W. 1882

Main door to hall circa 1895

Above what would seem to be one of the main entrance doors is a recess within which was displayed half of the Sherburn-in-Elmet church's Janus Cross which we came across earlier in our tour.

"The place is of great antiquity, and was anciently called Styveton. The first feudal tenants whom we can trace were  the Wilghbys, of Styveton and Thorp (a hamlet, near Selby, yet distinguished by the suffix" Willoughby"). Robert de Thorpe, son of Malger de Stiveton, gave to the Abbey of Selby as much of the Wood of Brayton as belonged to three oxgangs. In 1207, Ralph Wilghby gave ten marks to have seisin of his land with his chattels, which he holds of the Archbishop in Styveton and Micklefield. This fine, no doubt, determines his entry into possession upon the death of his predecessor. Ralph married
a lady named Beatrice, and died circa 1240, when the property fell into the possession of Robert Wilghby, their son. One of the popes confirmed a deed of Ralph Wilghby and Robert, his son, granting lands in Sherburn for the support of a chaplain at Steeton. This confirmation, therefore, dates the erection of the ancient chapel at Steeton Hall ante 1240. Sir Robert de Wilghby, Knight, gave the manor of Thorpe juxta Selby to Selby Abbey (r) in Edward I.'s time.

Many of the manor houses in the barony of Sherburn possessed private chapels; the necessity for their erection is given in one instance, and this necessity may be almost taken as applying to all. In 1307, John Eyton obtained license to cause divine service to be celebrated in his decent oratory, within his manor of Lennerton, which manor is much distant from the parish Church. and oftentimes, by the rising of the water and other impediments, he and his family cannot safely attend divine service at the parish church. This is a curious fact in the history of the agriculture of Yorkshire, and one which goes far to show the then desert state of some of the now richest portions of the county.
Robert Wilghby succeeded his father as lord of Steeton, and was in turn succeeded by his son Robert, who in 1266 held under the Archbishop one knight's fee in Stiveton and Thorp; at the same time, Serlo de Wilghby, who was possibly his brother, held a quarter of a knight's fee in the adjoining hamlet of Lumby, also under the Archbishop. Robert, son and heir of Sir Robert de Willeby, Knight, delivered seisin to Selby Abbey of a field in West Haddlesey, about which there had been a contest. This Robert is the last of the Wilghbys who possessed Steeton. He held it down to the reign of Edward I., when it came into the possession of the Reygates, probably by marriage with one of his daughters. The Reygates appear to have sprung from Brayton. John, called of Rygate, son of Robert, the cook of Brayton, quit claimed to Selby Abbey his right in an essart called Frost Croft, in Brayton; and Alice, wife of the said Robert, gave one acre in Frost Riddings. They were early settled at Milford. John Reygate and Robert Crepping were the king's assessors of the tallage in Yorkshire in the reign of Henry III, 1216-72. From 1268 to 1272 John de Reygate was one of the king's escheators beyond Trent, and in 1290 the Archishop's bailiff of Sherburn, but his name is not mentioned among those of the knights who held fees of the Archbishop in 1266. On the 13th Kal. Sept., 1290, John Reygate the younger did homage for land in Milford, Steeton, and Micklefield, in the meadow of the manor of Sherburn, Sir John Sampson and Sir John. Meaux, Kt., being present along with other people. He is not styled the younger in 1297.
27th February, 1297-8, John de Reygate, in the presence of Sir John de Lythegreyns, Sir Lambert de Trykingham, Sir Robert de Levesham, Knight, and many others, in the chamber" Sub Oriolo" at Cawod, did homage and fealty to the Archbishop elect for his lands and tenements in Stiveton, Miklefield, Millford, and Lumby; and he acknowledged that he held one knight's fee" Et petiit diem usque Pascha de majore servitio ab eo exacto, ut interim consulat et deliberet super illo." He repeated this service in the palace at York on the I5 Kal. August, 1300, acknowledging that he held them for one knight's fee, "but he will not give notice to his lord by his oath" by what service.

He repeats his homage in 1300. We believe that John Reygate the younger married a co-heiress of Robert Wilghby, and with her obtained Steeton, which, at his death, went to his second son Robert Reygate, who became a knight, and on the 30th June, 1314, did homage and service at Cawood, to William, Archbishop of York, for the lands and tenements which he held of him in Steeton, Thorp, and Miklefield. This seisin was repeated at Brotherton, on the 6th February, I3I7. In 1322 this Sir Robert was taken prisoner at Boroughbrirlge, in rebellion, with Thomas of Lancaster, against the King; and on the 11th July he surrendered himself, submitting to a fine of 200 marks, and finding six manucaptors who answer for his good behaviour under a penalty of 200 marks. On the same day John de Reygate submits to a fine of five marks and finds two manucaptors, who answer for the payment of the same, and for his good behaviour, under a penalty of five marks. In 1324, John de Lacie and William de Reigate were each to raise two hobelars and 40 archers in the Wapentake of Barkston Ash, and in 1335 they were again ordered to raise the men of the Wapentake. In 1325 Sir Robert Reygate was summoned to perform military service in Guyenne, he having obtained a pardon upon condition of serving the king in his wars. From the Reygates Steeton descended by marriage to the Foljambes, but we are not in a position to give the exact descent. The family of Reygate ended in females, of whom Isabel, daughter of William Reygate, married John Dyneley, aml carried some of her father's estates to her husband. In 13th Edward III. an action was commenced between John Dyneley, demandant, and Robert Hellewell, Knight, and Eve, his wife, deforciants of the manor of Micklefield, &c., when the right was adjudged to the same John and the heirs of the body of Isabel, his wife, the remainder to the heirs of the said John. According to inquisition, taken 41st Edward Ill., the jurors say that John Dyneley held, the day that he died, jointly with Isabel, his wife, yet living, one carucate of land, and five marks rent in Micklefield, &c., cf William Reygate, by fealty and the service of sixpence by the year. In the 37th Henry VIII, the King grants to Godfrey Foljambe, Esq., sen., and Godfrey Foljambe, jun., the custody of the manor of Steeton, com. Ebor, and 200 acres of land, 40 acres of meadow, 100 acres of waste, and 20 acres of land in Steeton, and 14 messuages and four tofts, and 200 acres of land, meadow, and pasture, in South Milford, Barcheston, Micklefield, and Lumby, and other lands (see Col. Top et Geneal, vol, I, p. 360). The Reygates appear to have been the builders of the most ancient portions of the present hall, In Gough's Camden (iii., 288) it is stated-" A great deal of the old building is standing, but some of it in ruins, about which are the arms of Reygate and other families in the stonework." Steeton Hall well deserves inspection and study, as a curious remnant of early domestic architecture, in more than one style, and as a copious and well preserved record, through its 30 sculptured shields of arms, of ancient family tenure, neighbourhood, and alliance."

(I) Here are a few notes pertaining to Thorp and the Wilghbys which are perhaps not irrelevant.
To all the faithful in Christ, Gilbert Aton greeting. Know ye that I have
granted, &c., to God and to the monks of St. Germain of Selby, for ever, me and my heirs for the health of my soul, and of my ancestors and successors, all the land which William Wllleby held of me in the territory of Thorp, to wit, those two carucates and three ox gangs of land, with all the appurtenances, which my grandfather, Gilbert, received of the same monks in exchange for Hamelton, to hold and to have in free, pure, and perpetual alms. And that this, my gift and quit-claim may be firm and permanent, I have set hereto my seal. These being witnesses-John Birkin, Oliver Gunby, &c.
31st Henry III. An agreement made between Richard, the Abbot, and Robert Willeghby, now Kt., 1247. The aforesaid Robert granted to the Abbot to exalt the dam of his mills of Selby, and by all means on either side, equally to repair by metes and bounds, .xc, to the higher part of the metes that day made from the mill, &c And the Abbot quit-claimed to the said Robert his park of Thorp, as at that time it was enclosed, &c. And for this quit-claim of Thorp the aforesaid Robert hath granted Ruddeker for ever, &c.
To all the faithful in Christ to whom this present writing shall come, Robert, the son of Robert Willeby, Knight, greeting. Know ye all that I have granted, and by this my present charter, have confirmed and quit-claimed for ever for me and my heirs for ever in pure and perpetual alms to God and the church of St. Germain of Selby, my manor of Thorp, near Selby, which they have of the gift of Robert, my father, with all its appurtenances.   W.W. 1882

Well here on our trail we find the old, in fact very old indeed, township of South Milford. A community that, whatever it’s past may or may not have been like, was most certainly growing during the early nineteenth century. From a count of 631 souls in 1822 it was already up to 719 just nine years later in 1831.

The Domesday Book tells us "In Mileforde Ulfstan had two carucates of land to be taxed, where there may be one plough. Turfsten now has it of Ilbert. There are there four villanes and five bordars, but they do not plough. Value in King Edward's time ten shillings, now ten shillings."

Families of this village included those of George Baker, James Cooper, Thomas Crossland, William Gibson, John Goulthwaite, William Hill, John Hindell. John Jackson
J Middleborough, John Nordin, John Robinson and William Stockdale - all farmers or workers on the land.

There was also:- Jepthah B Baker, who was the schoolmaster; a grocer called Thomas Bertoft; a butcher by the name of John Watson; plus William Greenwood the stone mason, James Hubie, shown listed as a “Boot & Shoe Maker”; George Pavour, who was a teazle dealer; John Wainwright the draper and two ‘victualors’ or pub owners - Sarah Morley of the Black Bull and George Wiseman of the White Swan. No other pubs are listed.

The village did, however, boast no less than three wheelwrights:- William Pavour (doubtless related to the teazle dealer already mentioned), plus a Mister Luke Rowley and a Mister Thomas Smith.

Image produced from the www.old-maps.co.uk service with permission of Landmark Information Group Ltd. and Ordnance Survey

Heading a mile or so to the east from South Milford and we come into Monk Fryston. This old village is listed in Langdale's 1822 'Topographical Dictionary of Yorkshire"   as follows:-

"MONK FRYSTON, a parish-town, in the wapentake of Barkston Ash, a part in the liberty of St. Peter; 4 miles N. of Ferrybridge, 6½ from Pontefract, 7½ from Selby, 13¾ from Leeds, 19 from York. Pop. 409. It is a parochial Chapelry, in the deanry of the Ainsty, value, p.r. £60. Patron, the Prebendary of Wistow."

People living and working there in that same year included

Richard Burden, victualer of  Chequers

William Dixon , wheelwright

James Linch , shopkeeper

Benjamin Ramsden , vict. Blue Bell

Henry Roadhouse, quarry owner

William Todd , portable thrashing machine maker

Richard Turner , draper

Rev. John Walker , curate

Joseph Wheatley, vict. Crown

Richard Beardshaw. Farmer

John Bromley Farmer

Mrs. Dennison  Farmer

Mrs. Hemsworth  Farmer

John Hill Farmer

Henry Moore Farmer

Charles Overton Farmer

Thomas Ringrose Farmer

Joseph Tomlinson Farmer

John Askham Grocer

Richard Turner Grocer

Samuel Blackburn Stone mason

Henry Roadhouse Stone mason

The name 'Monk Fryston' seems to cause some confusion. Originally we have the village called Fryssetune back in the year of 963AD when a grant by King Edgar was made to someone called Aeslac. After the arrival of the Normans it became part of the lands controlled by the Archbishop of York and was granted to the monks of Selby Abbey. Thus it became known as Monks Fryssetone and now Monk Fryston.  I have read in local booklets that the name came from the place being the monks' free stone. While that description may fit the later circumstances and is a nice picture in itself,  it cannot be ignored that the Frystone part of its name was in existence for at least a century before the monks got their stone - free or otherwise. It is quite possible that the quarry situated there in those early days, and owned some eight centuries later by one of the two Mr Henry Roadhouse's listed above, has some influence on the name. Certainly the stone from there was included in some major regional building works, not least of which was Selby Abbey. But the spelling of names is often more a problem than a help - and '-tune' could be a variation on 'tun' which later became 'ton' or 'town' in many local settlements. Also we don't have to travel very far at all to come across Ferry Fryston - now surely one can't be expected to believe that the Ferry was given free stone too.

St Wilfrid's Church, sat there in the village was also constructed of the local stone. It was started in the late 11th century and it replaced an even earlier Saxon place of worship which stood on the same site and the lower parts of the tower are originally from that earlier structure. Works continued there for some three hundred years. Major works were done in the late nineteenth century to restore this beautiful building.

Many of our readers have asked that we continue to publish the names of those living in the region in earlier centuries so here are a couple of lists for your attention. Back in 1379 the Subsidy Rolls - or Poll Tax returns - show us the following family names recorded as living at the time in the village of Ffryston:-

Willelmus Walker, Johannes Smyth, Willelmus at ye Kirk, Henricus at ye Hall, Rogerus de Birne, Willelmus Selyman,  Henricus Joneson   Johannes Cressy    Willelmus Stele, Willelmus de Snayt   Richardus Pynder   Willelmus Jakson  Adam de Bothe    Johannes Broune  Adam Hyk   Adam Dene    Robertus Dakson   Johannes Hawmund   Willelmus de Rome  Willelmus Spark   Johannes de Tanfeld'   Ricardus Kymschelf   Johannes Talour    Magota Barker   Agnes Se1ymañ     Isabella Cressy   Magota de Snayt'    Agnes Pynder   Willelmus de Bothe  Johannes de Bothe    Magota Spark   Alicia Leper  Magota Collewyf'   Diota Smyth

Moving just next door to the village of Hillam we find it described in 1822 as:-

"HILLAM, in the parish of Monk Fryston, wapentake of Barkston-Ash; 4 miles N. of Ferrybridge, 6 from Pontefract, 7 from Selby. Pop. 269."

While digging further back again we find the following family names listed in that Subsidy Roll of 1379:-

In the midst of the large forest, which, in Celto-Roman times, shadowed the kingdom of Elmet, the land of the Leogrys, Leoidi, Ludees, Ledes (the original Celtic people), was a clearing of timber on and around the brow of a small eminence near the river, and within this clearing stood a little settlement; or, as one old British writers with vivid imagination describes it: “The Caer Loid Coit,” which means, “The stronghold of the Leoidi, in the wood of Elmet.” This situation was naturally strong; besides other advantages, it was well watered by river and stream, being in the angle of land between and contiguous to both.

Supposing Leeds had once been the residence of either Angle or Danish kings, its name would have surely found a place in the Saxon chronicle. Bede certainly touches upon it, but only as a people or district, not as a town or city.

In point of antiquity, apart from its name (Leeds—a memorial of its founders), comes the Parish Church, dedicated to St. Peter. Its foundations carry us hack in imagination down the shadowy aisles of time for, at least, fifteen centuries; hut as to the precise date the first Church was erected on this site, history i again silent. One writer says five structures have stood on this spot. Supposing this to be the case, the first would be a British Church of timber construction, with roof of thatch, superseded, in the seventh century, by one of more durable material, which lasted through the Angle and Danish dynasties, say from the eighth to the eleventh century.

During some alterations, in 1809, many fragments of a more ancient structure were discovered, amongst which was a stone coffin, hewn out of a solid block of stone, supposed to be at least seven hundred years old. From evidences, this church seems to have been partly destroyed by fire: hence its diversity of architecture.

The fourth church was demolished in 1838, and the fifth church erected on the lines of the old foundation, completed and duly consecrated on Thursday, 2nd of September, 1841, under the vicariate of Dean Hook, whoseearnest zeal performed such wonders in Leeds, both temporally and spiritually. What Thoresby said of the former church—”Black, but comely” —can be partly said of the present structure, which is certainly very black, although, perhaps, not quite so comely as the previous one. From an architectural standpoint there is much to be desired. Its appearance does not greatly impress the onlooker, nor does the dingy squalor of its situation and surroundings add any charm to the fabric.

Whatever may be its shortcomings in architectural grace and grandeur of outline and design, it was around this early religious foundation that, for centuries, Leeds of the Celtic and Anglo-Danish periods existed, with a population which, in pre-Norman times, never exceeded four hundred souls. Leeds had not then spread west, even so far afield as Briggate, the beginning of this now important thoroughfare being called into existence by the slow but gradual growth of the town during the early rule of the Norman lords.

From this restraint, however, those houses which are situated within the manor of Whitkirk were exempt. The origin of this custom is very remote. In ancient times each family ground its corn in hand-mills. When water-mills were invented their introduction was eagerly desired; few, however, were able to build them. In some poor districts the king was petitioned to erect mills, to which he consented, on condition that the inhabitants would bind themselves and their heirs for ever (mark the word) to grind at such mills, on time terms then agreed to. During the Holy Wars, many privileges and immunities were granted to the Knights Templar, and among these was the exemption of their lands from certain taxes, and free of the obligation to grind at the Soke Mill of Leeds manor. The houses thus exempt are marked with crosses; there are several different styles of forming this cross-—single, double, and also the Maltese cross. The “ Court Leet” of the manor of Whitkirk and Templesnewsam are yet held, and an annual gathering of the constable and assistants takes place. In Templar Street (which takes its name from the Knights of the Temple) the crosses are to be seen in abundance and variety; also in Templar Court and St. John’s Square (named after the Knights of St. John). Less than a century ago, this Square was the residence of well-to-do trades people, amid it still bears evidences of better days. Other objects worthy of note in this district belonging to the manor of Templenewsam, are time many antique door knockers.

Timble Bridge, over which the road ran, leading from Leeds to Templenewsam, is said by Thoresby to be a corruption of Temple Bridge. In the fourteenth century, this was one of the most important parts of the town. In 1379, one John of Tymbill Smith dwelt here, and is said by Wheater to have been one of the four richest tradesmen in the town.

The stringent laws of the Plantagenet kings, which compelled the people, under severe fines, to wear clothes suitable to their order and position, from cloth of gold down to coarse black serge, made the cloth manufactured in Leeds a necessity. Width, weight, quality, colour, and price, were all regulated by the Government, in accordance with the decision of the Guilds, chartered to conduct the trade and manufacture.

We have already indicated that the Leeds of the Normans spread from the bridge to Kirkgate, and of the Tudor dynasty up to the Head Row; under the Jacobean kings the town grew west to Albion Street, and during the reign of the Georges to Park Lane and the west end, and at the same rate of progress also north and east.

Of medieaval Leeds scarcely a vestige remains. Swinegate and King’s Mills, however, retain the memory of those days ; Swinegate being the approach from the bridge and town to the mills and the manor house, which stood on Mill Hill, erroneously described as a castle, doubtless a myth, like the supposed Roman camp, that never existed; and from the garnish of this baronial and imperial robe Leeds must, perforce, be divested, being in the same plight as an individual of humble parentage who, having suddenly acquired great wealth, must needs manufacture a crest and an ancient ancestry. Th