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A Couple of Tours Through Elmet.

Via Car or Computer.

The first is today - with much history of course - and takes you north from Castleford to Tadcaster and then south through Towton to South Milford.

The second is a tour up the Wharfe from Cawood - as taken in 1892.

This page may take a few minutes to download to your computer

Please - bare with us - it's contents took 2000 years to happen !!

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First Published 27 March 1997

Last Updated 29/06/06

If any group or individual has further information, additions or differing evidence and would like to share it here then please get in touch by email on tykes@boozer.co.uk. Any support we can offer such groups or individuals is available for the asking.

Using our maps, (see "Maps" page) our photo's and our directions you can see Elmet as it is today - along with a description of the history, people and tales that belong to each place along the route.

Here is the tour map

That's two thousand years of interest and interaction.

This is being worked on as time permits - please bare with us - we are updating the tour daily and adding more information as it becomes available. Thank you.

Where early documents describe a village or family the usage of legal terminology can often confuse. Here are some examples of their meaning from:-

"  The Exposition of Termes of the Law, Ed. 1592, Distresse is the thinge which is taken and distrained upon any land for rent behind, or other duty, or for hurt done, although that the propertie of the thing belongeth to a stranger. But if they be beastes that belong to a stranger, it behoueth that they were tenant or couchant upon ye same ground, yt is to say, that the beastes have bin upon the ground certain space, that they have themselfe well rested there, or els they be not distreinable for rent or service. And if anyone distreine for rent or other thing without lawful cause, then the party greeued shall have a repleuine, and upon suretie found to pursue his action shall have the distresse to him deliuered again. But there be diuers thinges which be not distreinable, viz., an other man's gown in the house of a tailor, or cloth in the house of a fuller, sheereman, or weauer, for that they be common artificers, and that the common presumption is that such things belong. not to the artificer, but to other persons which put them there to be wrought. Also Vittail is not distreinable, nor come in sheues, but if they be in carts for that that a distress ought to be alway of such things whereof the sheriff may, make replemne and deliuer again in as good case as it was at the time of the taking. A man may distrain for homage and fealty, and escutage and other services, and for fines and amerciamentes which bee assessed in a Leete, but not in a court baron: and also for damage feasant, that is to say, when he findeth the beasts or goods of any other doing hurt or cumbring his ground. But a man may not distrain for any rent or thing due for any land but upon the same land that is charged therewith: but in case where I come to distrain, and the other seeing my purpose chaseth the beastes and beareth the thing out, to the intent that I shall not take it for a distresse upon the. ground, then I may weIJ pursue, and if I take it personally in the highway, or in another's ground, the taking is lawful .as well there as upon the ground charged., to whom soeuer the propertie of the goodes be. Also for fines and amerciaments which be assessed in a Leete, one may alway take the goods of him that is so amerced, in whose ground soeuer they bee wythin the jurisdiction of the court as it is said. And when one hath taken a distress it behoueth him to bring it to the common pound or els he may keepe it in an open place, so that he giue notice to the partie that he (if the distress be a quick beast) may giue to it food, and then if the beast die for default of food, he yt was distrained shall be at the losse (and then the other might distrain again for the same rent or duty). But if hee carry ye distress to a hold or out of the county that the shirife may not make deliuerance upon the repleuin, then ye partie upon the retorne of the shirife shall have a writ of withernam dyrected to the shiriffe that he take as many of his beasts, or as much goodes of the other in his keeping till he hath made delieurance of the first distress. And also if they be in a forslet or castel, the shirife may take with him the power of ye countie and beat down the castel as it appeareth by the statute West. I ca 17, therefore looke the statute.  "

Okay - so I am not making it all THAT easy!

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WELCOME!!

We would begin our visit in the old town and environs of Pontefract, Pomfret as it was known to Shakespeare and others of his day.

It is far from being the oldest site in Elmet, but its castle and market are interesting enough to warrant their own page in this website. (GoPomfret).

So for this page's tour around the area we will start to the north of Pontefract, over the river, just North of Castleford.......

Elmet is a very interesting area for anyone with a passion for the past. Everywhere are witnesses to the work and the wars of the last two thousand years.
Indeed people have 'toured' Elmet for thousands of years. The Roman Empire was the first to bring in an 'organised' road system, at least as far as we know and information on this system is being increased all the time. Communication is the key to all military actions and Rome's hold on the area was a constant military operation of one kind or another for nearly four centuries.
The most obvious legacy of this work is Ridge Road. This stretches virtually due North from Castleford to Aberford, In places it is still officially named Roman Ridge Road. It cut a swathe through the area that must have been a permanent reminder to every native Brigantii soul that they were now 'Roman'. It scratched it's way across the landscape in the early 70's A.D..
We will start our tour where that very road crossed the River Aire at Castleford.
The name 'Castleford' is a lovely picture in itself. It derives from Caister-ford - the Roman fort at the ford - but then the word 'castle' came from 'caister' too - so the path is a parallel one.
We will deal with this small, fortified crossing later, first let us look due-North, up along that old thoroughfare that has served this place - and many places miles to the North and miles to the South - for nearly two millennia. It was constructed, as we have said, around the year 70AD.
Here it crosses the flats of the valley basin moving away from from the confluence of the Aire and Calder Rivers towards the rise ahead. To either side of this stretch are small villages with histories all their own.

Due West of us is the village of Allerton Bywater. It's name says it all. History adds little else.
Straight ahead - across the modern crossroads - we see the old Roman way stretch forward and start to climb the valley side. To the left of it is the gateway into the old estate of Kippax. To the right we would see the 16th century majesty of Ledston Hall. But we turn right at the crossroads and head  due East,  - running now parallel with the course of the river - on the old road to Fairburn. Four hundred yards down here we swing left into Ledston lane. If we carried straight on we would skirt the present-day bird sanctuary on Fairburn Ings - along with the site of an early monastery.
But left we go and over the the bridge which crosses the small stream. Said stream was dammed some centuries ago along side the Roman road to create a mill race which crosses our path in the trees ahead. Here stood Ledston's old water mill.
This whole area is steeped in history. The name Lead crops up many times and in many variations in Elmet. Lead, Ledston, Ledsham, Leeds, Leathley etc. and all recall that that this was the land of the Loidis or Loedes, a Briganti tribe in pre-Roman Britain. . Their memory lingers.
Two thousand years ago many of the people of this area lived along the slope ( bank ) ahead of us. Likely the river flats we stand upon were little more than swampland then. Over to the left of our present path we can see a wood clinging to the side of the hill. That wood covers a hillock that was a British settlement and defensive position before Roman times and a place of occupation until right into the 17th century at least.

Ledston Hall.
The village of Leadston that we are passing through is of later vintage and grew along the new road system serving the Hall, which is an Elizabethan structure.
Through the village and climbing the gentle time worn road to the junction we can see that straight opposite is what is now a cart track continuing up the hill. There before us, to the sides of this track is the site of the original Celtic village. Nothing remains above ground now to mark this historical place.

Kippax at the turn of this century.
Turning left towards Kippax we arrive back on the Roman Ridge Road at a crossroads called 'Mary Pannell'. It is named so after the unfortunate woman who was burned here as a witch.

Mary Pannel or Pannell was a maid at Ledston Hall towards the end of the 16th century. She, like many others, had a knowledge of 'old' medicines and prepared a lotion to be rubbed upon the chest of the young son of the house, one Master William Witham Esq. who was suffering from a chill. His mother mistakenly gave it to the lad to drink and poisoned him. She blamed Mary and accused her of being a witch. This was in May 1593. Mary was tried in 1603 at York and convicted. She was burned to death on the hill that bares her name that same year. Local tales tell that she haunts the hill and its Roman road leading a horse. Anyone who witnesses the apparition will have a death in the family soon after

 At this crossroads was an Inn which survived from medieval times until the beginning of this century - only short sections of stone wall mark it's existence today.
Ahead, but one half mile, is the ancient town of Kippax.

Kippax is in the Skyrack Wapentake and situated in a district of great natural wealth, and stands on the summit of a limestone ridge, a fine elevation overlooking a magnificent sweep of the lower Aire country, which is blurred to some extent by the many evidences of the industry of man. Still the beauty of the vale is apparent and the wonderful panoramic vista reaching south to the Peaks of Derbyshire, seen on a fine day, is quite charming. If we compare the Domesday 'appraise' of Leeds with Kippax we find the latter nearly three times larger than the former.

There are various conjectures accounting for the name 'Kippax'. Dr. Whitaker and other  writers suppose the word to be mearly a corruption of the Keep-Esh, the first a large mound still existing near the church called a kip or keep and the latter a huge memorial ash which grew near - hence Keep-Ash. Another authority says 'Chipe' is from 'cheap' - a market held near a prominent Ash tree.

Coupled with Ledston it was the centre of a power to which most of the surrounding places were subordinate. One feature of the mercantile importance of Kypis remains in the fact that the de Lacies never subinfeuded Kippax (as they did Leeds) but always held it in their own grip and so had the power of transferring any of its market rights to Pontefract as the latter place grew into greater prominence. The vestiges of the past existing at Kippax fully demonstrate its antiquity.

If we now retrace our steps to that junction North of Ledston and move East instead we trace around the grounds of Ledston Hall. Half a mile along and the left turn is signposted for Ledsham. The hamlet of Led. (a.d.h.) is another name indicating the Celtic-British connection.

Ledsham 1850

Image produced from the www.old-maps.co.uk service with permission of Landmark Information Group Ltd. and Ordnance Survey

The village itself is now very small but sports an excellent church of Norman construction and a fine 16th century inn where good food and ales can be had to restore the weary traveller - but not on a Sunday - as local by-laws forbid the sale of alcohol on that day. This is due to the lady of the manor being abused on her way to church by two half-drunken locals one Sunday in the 1800's.

Exiting Ledsham opposite the inn's drive takes us up a steep bank through the woods towards the present-day Great North Road or A1. Up in the trees to the left of the bank is the site of the old vicarage and where the present lane turns sharp left you will note the line of the hedge where the lane once went in days gone by and crossed the main artery in the same place it now does after deviating somewhat. Ahead is another 90 degree corner in our lane and if we don't avail ourselves of it but continue into the driveway ahead we will find ourselves travelling through the woods and exiting onto the meadows beyond where the track leads up to a fine old building which served as a hunting lodge in centuries past. It was also the site of the signal beacon which could pass messages from site to site. To the South it spies direct to Pontefract Castle and to the North; Hazlewood Castle.

Back out onto the public road and along to the slip road of the A1 where we turn left and along towards that main artery. We stay to the left though and just take the next exit - a matter of a couple of hundred yards up the road. This short distance passes the public house on the left that has a great local history. The Boot and Shoe was an old haunt of highwaymen and other ne'er-do-wells over a very long period of time.

The new (2006) roundabout here joins on to the Selby Road - though heading back in the direction of Leeds. But we continue straight ahead, signposted for Micklefield. As the road approaches the first buildings it is passing the place where Castle Hill Wood used to be. This was over to the right behind the first old farm there and now has the A1 trunkroad running right through the centre of it. There is no record of a castle having actually been built but there is some very early altarwork to be found there which could be Roman or Romano-British.

Drive on into the village, another place that used to carry the 'in-Elmet' suffix, and across the stream. Up from the stream one enters the medieval village. This is an ancient place. It is listed in 963AD as 'Miclandfelda', in 1030AD as Miclafeld, with Mickelfeld in 1160, Michelfeld in 1214, Muclefeud in 1290, Mykelfeld in 1272, Mikkelfeld in 1428 and Micklefield in 1636. (My thanks to Jo Hebden for this)  Slow here to the church on the left.

See plan below.

Here you take the left turn alongside the church into - not surprisingly - Church Lane. I am informed that this lane changes its name after leaving the village to be called Gerry's Lane. Gerry was a donkey that was tied up and tried to escape but hanged himself. Hence the name. Exit the village along the lane and you are heading due West. <A>In front of you is the old Roman road again - Roman Ridge Road. To your right is a dell with a small clump of bushes. This is the site of an ancient well. It is called Helen's Well and has connections with Constantine's mother of that ilk.

Information about Micklefield from W Wheater 1882

Click HERE

You come up to Roman Ridge Road soon after. This is the line of the same old Roman road built by the XX Legion in or around 70AD.You join it at a place called Soldier's Hill. <B>. This name will not be found on any maps and no one knows it true origin. But across the road from the junction where Church Lane ends are the signs of a habitation of some size. No date, no knowledge on that. I am informed that local tradition says the name came from it being the site of a burial of Roman soldiers, but there is also the possibility that they were soldiers from the battle at Towton.. (My thanks to Jo Hebden of Micklefield for that too)

Looking to the right (northwards) the old Roman Ridge road now has a new sweep towards the newly opened M1 motorway's junction 47. Turn right onto Roman Ridge road but as the road sweeps left into this new section take the right turn which is on that bend <C>. This brings you back onto the old track of that ancient road..

Ahead this Roman road makes it's way on to Hook Moor <D>. Over the centuries this must have been one of the busiest sections of our Elmet area. When the new motorway was in it's early days of being constructed (1998) where it cuts through Hook Moor there was discovered a large pre-Roman village/town <E> - presumably of the local Brigantii Britons. History having a way of repeating itself, it is ironic to note that one large dwelling, marked clearly in the bedrock, had the Roman road cut right through the centre of it.

A case of 1998AD repeating 70AD.

At the top of the rise the road cuts right. Here one is driving right across the centre of that discovered dwelling site. A couple of hundred yards further and we can turn left onto the new Aberford-Micklefield road.

Just 50 yards more and the ridge of the old Roman roadway can be seen leading up past the cottage on your left. This whole section is steeped in history. Here, just south of the woods, also stretched the pre-Roman settlement; showing just what a size, and of what importance this British town must have been. Ahead the road curves right and goes down into the trees following the medieval roadline down the hill while to the left, in those trees, can still be clearly seen the raised banking of the straighter original Roman road line<F>.

Down to the crossroads. Above you, to the right, is the modern A1 road. The slope you see coming down from it towards the crossroad is a shadow of the Great North Road. You are now on the line of the medieval Great North Road which crossed the Aire at Ferrybridge and joined the Roman road just across the other side of the crossroads where the bend in the road bring you back onto the straight Roman line. <G>.

To the east of here, between the Roman road and Lotherton, there have been many finds over the years which indicate it was a popular area in the pre-Roman, Roman and immediately post-Roman period. From this Hook Moor also ran a road easterly past Lotherton Hall via Lead to Towton and Tadcaster. It was here at Hook Moor that the Yorkist army, heading from Pontefract and Castleford, left the Roman way to join in battle with the Lancastrian force at Towton in what was to become Britain's bloodiest battle.

Over the crossroads now and towards Aberford where you join back on to the straight line of the old Roman way. This is the old junction of the medieval road from Ferrybridge and the Roman road from Castleford. To the right of this - under what is now the modern M1 and A1 roads - was a swampy area, causing the medieval way to link in with the Roman road at this place. From this marsh ran a 'river' called Crow which meandered along the dip to the right of the Roman road and joined the Cock River at Aberford, a mile or so north.

On your left at  this 'junction' are gatehouses <H>. They mark one of the many entrances to Parlington Hall. You will note to their left, back through into the trees, is a footpath.  This is running along the line of the old Roman road it is still a right-of-way after nearly 2000 years. 

  One of the gatehouses to Parlington estate.  Roman Ridge Road.

Heading north along Roman Ridge Road for 300 yards to an old Ash tree on your right you can look through the gateway, over the line of Crow River to Hicklam Mill windmill. This is private property so please respect same.

The windmill has a nice history dating back to the 15th century and one particular little ditty about a local-born chap called Sammy Hick. Sam was born in Aberford in 1758 but moved to Micklefield as an adult. He became a blacksmith and Methodist minister there. To him is credited a local 'miracle'.

The story tells how he needed some corn ground for a 'love feast' he was organising but for three weeks there had been no wind to turn the mill sails. Sammy however loaded up his cart with corn and said a prayer and headed off to Hicklam Mill. On his arrival a breeze sprang up of enough strength to grind his corn. Just enough. For as others saw the sails moving and arrived with their loaded carts the wind dropped once more. 

Hicklam Mill.

A short drive further and the Alms Houses are on your left. This beautiful creation was an institution for the area's poor. Although they appear much older they are dating from 1844 and they were built by Maria Isabella and Elizabeth Gascoigne of Parlington in memory of their father Richard Oliver Gascoigne and their two brothers Thomas Oliver and Richard Oliver, all of whom died within a year of each other. We will come upon much more of this family as we go.

To the other side of the road is the memorial to the fallen of the First World War - and subsequent conflicts. The village of Aberford, as with most settlements hereabouts, is not short on history.

Alms Houses.                               Down the hill to Aberford.

Camden, in his Britannia says: ' We travelled along the bold ridge of the Roman military way to Aberford, a little village by the side of the way, famous for making pins, which are in great request among the ladies. Below this runs the River Coc, called in books 'Cocker', and in the descent to the river are to be seen the foundations of an old castle called 'Castle Carey."

As we have seen on nearby Hook Moor with it's pre-Roman town, this whole area has a civilised history that stretches back well over two thousand years. The origins of Aberford are just as early, and just as confused. Many an argument exists even over it's name. There seems little to the title that precedes the 11th century and spellings, as everywhere, have changed greatly. That the Roman road line crosses the River Cock here over a medieval bridge is not argued, and the ford that preceded it earns the village one part of it's name right enough. But the 'Aber' prefix has led to many different thoughts on the titles origin.

Here the Crow River we have paralleled for the last mile or so joins with the Cock - and such a confluence could well earn the prefix 'Aber'. But the spelling of the site as late as 200 years ago carried an extra 'b' - Abberford. Not that spelling is too wealthy a witness.

Somewhere around here was the earliest post-Roman Christian site to be built by the monks of Iona in the 5th century. Such an abbey might well have lent it's title to a later name - Abbey's Ford.  Then again the church in this village was named after the church in the Norman lord's home town - St Richarius or Ricarius of Abbeville. Perhaps there is some reflection in there that became part of the Yorkshire village's name. We may never know.

Moving down the hill into the village you pass a large building on the right which butts up to the roadside. This was once one of the Stage Coach Inns of the area.

The aformentioned 'Castle Carey' is no longer to be seen. It may have been the remains of the said Christian buildings or the Roman fort which guarded the ford. We may never know that either.

Through the narrow confines of the village proper, up to the top of the next hill and on your left is the village church with, as already noted, St. Ricarius is it's patron - the only church in England to hold that title.

"The church, with it's former traces of vast antiquity, is a fine building, enlarged, and in some degree repaired, in 1821, when the early chancel arch were barbarously used; it was rebuilt in 1861, except the tower and chancel, the former being restored in 1891. The Registers date from 1540. The patronage of the church passed from the Grammarys, who presented it to the knightly family of Walkyngham in 1230. The latter held it until 1331, when it was appropriated to the provost and scholars of the house of St. Mary at Oxford, collegiated in that university, and now Oriel College, to which it belongs.

The following tragic event in connection with this church is on record, June 26th 1347:- 'A general sentence against those who entered Aberford Church, and killed John de Byngham, clerk, whilst kneeling before the high altar in prayer.'"               Edmund Bogg  1904.

The local Church of England Primary School is based in what was once the mediaeval Tithe Barn. A tithe barn is where one tenth of the farming produce was collected and stored as a tax by the Church.

Just past it is the old inn The Swan. This is another old stagecoach inn and, indeed, it's history goes back right into the 15th century - or even earlier. Well worth a look around - and a meal or small sample of the local ale!

Aberford 1895

Ahead of us the old road crosses the bridge over the Cock and through the rest of the village. There is another inn on the right just over the bridge. This is called The Arabian Horse in memory of the day when the very first Arab steeds were quartered there on their way to new breeding grounds further north.

Aberford was granted a market on the 7th March 1251 to be held on Wednesdays.

Travelling  north, out of the village, the new motorway cuts the old Roman road these days. We will not venture thus. But it should be noted that along that way - now the other side of the said motorway, - is Black Horse Farm, once Black Horse Inn and said to have been the haunt of famous local highwayman Nevison - the chap who road from London to York in a single day (he changed horses at the Black Horse) - and who had his exploits stolen by the tellers of Dick Turpin's tale.

We though, as I said, are turning left before the bridge and taking the road alongside The Swan - so heading west. On the right here is the shell of the old water mill that saw service for some centuries but was closed down finally and it's wheel removed around the turn of the century after a tragic drowning accident which took the life of a young local child.

Up the short rise on the start of the Barwick road brings you to a building on the right which directly fronts onto the street. Above the door are the arms of the Gascoigne family, a pike's head. Directly opposite is a side road. Take it on up the hill and through into the park beyond. This is Parlington Park. Now this site has some history to it indeed.

The avenue within takes us on and up the slope. It was planted in 1783 by George Gascoigne and leads up to a victory arch. That was the entrance gate to the house grounds. It was built especially to welcome George III in 1784 on his visit to the house. Gascoigne had vast interests in the American colonies and supported, as many local lords did, the fight for American independence. No more than a business take-over in many ways. Along the front of the arch are the words "Freedom Triumphant in America!".

King George approached up the driveway, saw the arch, read the words and turned in anger - staying the night at nearby Haselwood Castle instead. Also the home of supporters of the American 'buy-out' - but less vocal ones.

"Freedom Triumphant in America." Gascoine's slight to George III on his visit in 1784.

Parlington's history goes back many centuries..........the first residents with whom we are acquainted assumed the name of the place and were/are known as De Parlington, occupying the mansion at the time Falkes de Brecante was at Harewood. They were succeeded by the Despensers.

In 1336 Philip, son of Philip, son of Hugh le Despenser, le pere, shows that Hugh was in possession of Parlington. Philip, the son, married Margaret, daughter and heiress of Ralph de Gowshill; holding the manor of Parlington, of the King, as of the crown by the fourth part of a knight's fee - (a tenure of lands held by knights on condition of military service). In 1404 a Philip Despenser held the manor by the seizin of half a knight's fee. These Despensers are the men who brought much trouble upon England in the reign of Edward II. In 1424 Roger Wentworth, Esqr., and Margaret his wife, heiress of Sir Philip Despenser and Elizabeth his late wife, held the manor of Parlington.

Before the end of the 17th century the Gascoignes were in possession and intermarried with the Vavasours, of Hazelwood. The Gascoigne arms - or, in a pale sable, a demi-luce nest couped or.

Driving further along the lane you are now leaving Aberford on the Barwick road. Over to the right runs the River Cock or Cock Beck. Beyond it you will see the great rise of land. This is Becca Bank. In one form or another it is part of a line that stretches all the way from Barwick-in-Elmet to Sherburn-in-Elmet - a great defensive ridge near ten miles long. All the land to the left of the road is part of Parlington Park.

Follow this road and you follow the Cock Beck on your right and the Parlington Estate on your left. You will pass a gatehouse about one mile from Aberford. Below and to your right the Cock runs and down there was a medieval village complete with fish pools. Absolutely nothing is known of this village.

The road runs down to the Cock and crosses it by a bridge which had a strange tale. In the 17th century even stage coach itinerary had to be amended to allow for drivers' refusal to cross this bridge at night. Beneath it was a spirit which haunted the site at night.

Local feeling on this was strong enough to have those amendments come to pass.

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Crossing Cock Beck and moving up the hill from the haunted bridge the road climbs into Barwick-in-Elmet - and what we have   here is a village of great local historical import. This was quite likely the capital of the old post-Roman British Celtic Kingdom of Elmet. There certainly has been habitation here for well over two thousand years. A couple of years ago the  work on the new M1 motorway connection uncovered evidence of habitation to the south of the village dating back to around 3000 BC. While this is not in the village itself it does give some indication of the area's past.

Barwick-in-Elmet is situated in a strong natural position protected by the Eastdale valley and the Cock Beck valley. Prior to the Roman invasion of our area it must have been a town of some size and importance with present evidence showing that it was originally dating anywhere from 200 BC to 600 BC and the earthworks that it stood on are massive, covering around 15 acres. These great defensive works are still very much visible today, especially from the public footpath to the rear of the Black Swan public house.  Finds here have been many and various, such as coins dating from the second century BC and from the first century AD. The village is also the pivot-pin of a giant defensive bank running all the way alongside the Cock Beck to the east past Aberford, and other works have been found to the west of the village. There is every likelihood that these massive but hastily raised seemingly first century AD defences were an attempt by the local Brigantii to fend off Roman advances. Needless to say, they didn't do the job. Then, as far as our available evidence goes, it all becomes very quiet.

The Roman period seemingly freezes Barwick-in-Elmet out altogether. It is possible that Roman organisation of the region simply bypassed Barwick and it withered. Certainly the local Roman roads come nowhere near the settlement.  But Helen, Constantine's mother, is reputedly of this town which, if true,  would contradict its total decline. If this is true then it is possibly the cradle of modern Christianity as we know it, that being a catholic belief fostered by her son the emperor. After the Roman administration had deserted the area in the fifth century it very  likely became the capital of the local, newly-formed British kingdom of Elmet (Elmete). This again would indicate the likelihood that, through the Roman period, something was still going on in Barwick-in-Elmet.

So much, and so little is known of this Kingdom of Elmet and nothing actually points to Barwick-in-Elmet being the capital of this newly formed land. But Victorian historians have painted it as such and who are we to argue? Elmet was one of the thirteen kingdoms of the North - Y Gogledd, a mainly Celtic Christian region - and, with varying success, it held out against the pagan English for two hundred years. The last king of Elmet was called Cerdic and was knocked from his throne by Edwin of Northumbria around 625 AD, it then becoming part of blossoming England. The Dark Ages are so-called not because they were a 'dark' time, in many ways they were quite the opposite, but simply because of the lack of information we have of them and certainly our Barwick-in-Elmet is no exception. All we can say is that, according to the records in the Domesday Book, there must have been a thriving agricultural settlement here just prior to 1086.

Domesday calls Barwick-in-Elmet "Beruuit" (Berwit) and had it in the possession of Earl Edwin of Mercia as a manor of around one thousand acres. Edwin joined the rebellion against William the First in 1071, but he was killed and the manor passed to the Norman lord Ilbert deLacy. Overlaying the iron-age workings is 'Auld How' now called Hall Tower Field, behind the Gascoigne Arms pub. Here is the typical motte and bailey type layout that one would expect to indicate this Norman presence - most likely instigated by de Lacy in order to make his mark on his new land. This castle was likely to have never gone beyond the wooden structure as other, more central situations, such as Pontefract, were also in his hands.From what we can tell the site was not likely in use for more than a century or so.It is still an imposing mound.Around seventy feet high with the outer edge of the ditch some two hundred and seventy yards across.

Nevertheless Barwick-in-Elmet it was a place of medieaval import, and in the 16th century it was twice the size of such places as Bingley, Ilkley and Otley. The Muster Roll for 1530 shows two esquires,   John Gascoigne of Barnbow and William Ellis, a constable, , sixteen archers and 28 billmen; a sizeable muster for any decent sized village. It was granted by King James to his wife Anne in 1603 passing to the Prince of Wales in 1619. He became Charles the First and, being always short of funds, he mortgaged it in 1627 - selling it two years later. Eventually it passed into the ownership of the Gascoigne family.

One thing this village has is tradition. It still boasts Britain's tallest maypole, all two and a half tons and eighty six feet of it.. Every three years this pole is taken down and repaired/repainted and then raised again in great celebration - totally by hand.

Over 200 people are involved on the ropes and ladders.  Yet again there is a local tradition for miles around that anyone hit by the pole during it's uprearing was cursed. It was said that they would be forever stupid. There used to be a saying: "He got knocked at Barwick and was silly ever after." when speaking about someone of weak intellect.

So here is:-

The 1999 Raising of The Barwick-in-Elmet Maypole

2 1/2 tons and 86 feet of it. Every 3 years it is taken down and refurbished and re-erected by hand with some celebration.

2002 should have seen it all done again - but new legal problems with insurance over health & safety have meant its cancellation. Perhaps yet another timeless tradition is now finished for ever.

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The village church is dedicated to All Hallows, an indication of its antiquity, more than likely marking its origins in the early Christianity that the Saxons gained from the local Celts so many centuries ago. It also still boasts some very early masonry from the Saxon period.  In its west face is a statue of a Vavasour - who gave the stone for the tower. The inscription reads "Orate pro Henrico Vavasour, Anno Domini 1414." The church was last renovated in 1856. Just what damage was done to the historical structure of the building by this Victorian make-over is anyone's guess. The Gascoignes and the Ellis families both have chapels here.

Edmund Bogg tells us that in the middle of the 1800's a local woman, Mary Morritt, was said to be gifted with second sight. She would watch the church at midnight on St. Mark's eve and professed to foretell the death of any person in the parish during the following year by the flitting of their figures passing into the church during her vigil. It was said that the death of her own husband was the last she foretold.

The Church - around 1860

Time to move on from Barwick-in-Elmet. Approaching the church from the Maypole, we take the road to the left of the church. This is a narrow thoroughfare so watch for traffic coming the other  way.

The road takes a sharp left alongside the church and heads north. Centuries ago the flatland to the right was all part of this great capital. Just ahead note the trees and the 'groove' in the land on both sides of the road - just before the right hand curve. That is the remains of the ditch around the later town. The road takes the right curve mentioned and advances down the side of the defensive banking to the stream far below. The old bridge over the beck was repaired two hundred years ago and revealed an even older structure beneath it. Over the bridge the roadway is cut deep into the land by centuries of wear and climbs slightly to approach Morgan's Cross. .

Morgan's Cross

The import of this place, like most things around here, is shrouded in mystery. From the map (above) it is obvious that an estate of some import stood at this site in the distant past, the term 'Manor Garth' certainly echoes the earthworks visible. Nothing is listed in post Saxon times at all which, in any way, indicates an earlier occupation. Local tales tell of a monastic/Christian importance, as does the title 'Morgan's Cross' and one possibility is that it was the site of, or allied to, the first of the 'new' Christian churches, with direction from Iona, that marked the re-birth of Celtic Christianity into this region during the 5th or 6th century.

Could this be the site of Thridwulf's Monastery? All that is known of this legendary establishment is that it was in the woods of Elmet.Two historians, Simeon of Durham and Roger de Hovedon tell us that Eanbald, Archbishop of York died in the monastery in 796 and Burton's Monasticon Eboracense tells us that of ten monasteries founded by Ionan Scottish monks, the last of them was founded at Barwick-in-Elmet in 730.

Bearing left at the Morgan's Cross T-junction shown on the map leads us north on to the York-Leeds road at the remains of another medieval village. Few houses and one inn are all that are now to be seen as the A64, following the line of the Leeds to York turnpike, crosses what must have been the village green in days gone by.

Now we turn right on to the main Leeds-to-York road, the A64, heading east. Just less than a mile along here and we are crossing over the A1. At this point a glance to the north will show the site of the battle of Bramham 1408. For information on that fight look in our page "Mediaeval Battles". The A64 follows the line of both the earlier Roman road and the mediaeval Great North Road and as you leave the roundabout heading for Tadcaster you will see on your left an old farm with the original trackway of that major thoroughfare running along the side of it.

Heading now along the new motorway-style York Road we see to the right the old, and then the new, entrances for Hazelwood Castle. This building is an old and interesting place to say the least. For a start, depending on what you read, the spelling can be Haselwood, Haslewood, Hazelwood or Hazlewood. Ah well, such are the problems with research.

Haselwood

This was the seat of the Vavasours for many centuries. This family has a history written all through that of the local area. Let us take a piece from Edmund Bogg's 'The Old Kingdom of Elmet' written in the last years of the 19th century; "The old name of Haselwood (Iselwood) establishes the 'hall' or 'hael' that always inplies local government. At least since the days of the Conquest this ancient and noble family have held the lands of Hazelwood, except for a short time in the reign of Henry III, when it was in pawn to Aaron a Jew at York, for the sum of £350. He made conveyance of his security to Queen Eleanor, in discharge of a debt due to her, from whom John le Vavasor received it again on payment of the money.

In its feudal aspect, Hazelwood presents the earliest features of a Seat of rank just below the dignity of a baronial castle. As a stone edifice capable of supporting the operations of war as then known, it had an early beginning. In 1286, King Edward I gave leave to castellete the mansion, which really means that, by that time, what Mauger had left of the old timber hall of his ancestors had become decrepit by wear and time and action being necessary, stone might be used in the erection of a strong and warlike edifice."

Of no small importance is the old chapel in the castle grounds which in itself has a very colourful history. This was the family chapel of the Vavasours who were staunch Roman Catholics even during the 16th century repressions. It is possibly unique anywhere in England in that through the years that Roman Catholic services were banned by Royal Decree this single chapel was allowed to continue with its old ways. The connection between the family and the Royal household at this time was a strong one, but this was never-the-less a very unusual state of affairs.

Justice Vavasour

There was a Justice, but late in the realme of England, called Master Vavasour, a very homely man and rude of condycions, and lovyd, never to spend mych, mych money. This Master Vavasour rode on a tyme in hys cyrceutyee (circuit) in the northe countrey, where he had agreed wyth the sheryf for a certain some of money for hys charges thorowe the shyre, so that at every inne and lodgynge this Master Vavasour payed for hys own costys. It fortuned so, that when he came to a certayn lodgyng he commanded one Turpyn, hys servant to see that he used good husbondry, and to save suche thynges as were left, and to carry it wyth hym to serve hym baytynge.

Thys Turpyn, doying his mayster's commandment, take the broken bred, broken mete, and all such tying that was left, and put it in his mayster's cloth sak. The wyf of the hous, perceywing that he toke all such fragmentys and vytale wyth hym that was left, and put it in the clothe sak, she brought up a podage that was left in the pot; and when Turpyn had turned hys bak a lytyl asyde, she pouryd the podage into the clothe sak whych ran upon hys robe of skarlet and other of hys garmentys, and rayed them very evyll, that they were much hurt therewyth.

Thys Turpyn, sodegnly turnying hym, and seeing it, revyled the wyf, therfore, and ran to hys mayster, and told hym what she had don; wherfore Master Vavasour incontinent, called the wyf, and said to her thus: "Thou drab, " quoth he, "what has thou don? Why hast thou pourd the podage in my clothe sak, and marrd my rayment and gere?"

"O, sir, " quoth the wyf, "I know wel ye are a judge of the realme, and I perceyve by your mind is to do ryght as to have that is your owen ; and you mynd is to have all thyng wyth you that ye have payd for, both broken mete and other thynges that is left, and so it is reson that ye have: and therfore, because your servant hath taken the broken mete and put it in your clothe sak, I have therin put the podage that be left, because ye have wel and truly payed for them. Yf I shoulde kepe any thynge from you that he hath payed for, per-adventure, ye wold trouble me in the law another tyme." Here ye may se, that he that playeth the niygards so mych, som tyme it torneth hym to hys owne losse.

Roman Roads

The road we are on follows the track of the Roman London to York road as it curves around Hazelwood until we reach the Tadcaster bypass and the A 659 turn-off to the left which heads for Tadcaster itself. We will take this turning and leave the 20th century road behind. 1900 years behind. Here we are approaching the Roman equivalent of Spaghetti Junction. Take a look at the map of the area with the Roman road lines overlaid upon it - the solid lines are the rough position of Roman roads with the dotted lines showing the line of the later mediaeval Great North Road. They are not meant to be perfect tracts - just indications of where the road lines ran.

Here, to the west of Tadcaster, we have a coming-together of five outward bound Roman equivalent of motorways. What it must have been like during those centuries of Roman administration only the wildest imagination can picture. Fascinating!

Heading from here to the south via Castleford (Lagentium) came the great artery from London (Londinium) and the continent, the roadway we have encountered many times so far. Sweeping in from the west was a road bringing traffic from the legions' retirement park at Adel and Ilkley (Olicana) beyond, travelling through present-day Thorner. A parallel road to the north of this one came in past ancient Bardsey and through Bramham.  From the north came Rudgate, the road from the Wall and those wild border kingdoms. To the north east went the main road through Tadcaster (Calcaria) and on to the area capital at York (Eboracum). What sites this small area must have seen during those turbulent years.For a quick tour of the roads mentioned take the first turning on the right after leaving the A64. It is signposted 'Stutton'. After around 100 yards the road does a 90 degree left turn - and is back on to the old London to Tadcaster Roman roadway. Follow this down the hill towards Tadcaster and when you reach the main road on the outskirts of Tadcaster take the left turn back towards Leeds. The Roman road originally continued across the present main road and down towards the river and the old Roman settlement. Heading back away from Tadcaster we are now on the Roman road to Bramham, which rises up towards a left curve. On this present-day curve is a right turn, This is the old line of our Roman road. If we take the 'turn' we come very quickly to a small crossroads. Here to our right goes Rudgate - heading for Hadrian's Wall and all points north. Swing left and left again and we are back on the A 659 and yet again heading along to old Tadcaster.

Before we take on Tadcaster there is one more Roman road that is of great local importance. Important not just to our understanding of the Roman period but also to later events - not least being our famous Battle of Towton in 1461. Looking at the map of major Roman road routes shows that the great carriageway from the south crossed the River Aire at Castleford. The later mediaeval route crossed at Ferrybridge and cut across to join the Roman road at Hook Moor, just south of Aberford. But was there a crossing at Ferrybridge in the Roman period? The Roman station at Castleford seems to have gonedownhill after the 1st century. Could it have been by-passed by a quicker route just to the east when long term drainage of the area had made it passable for a heavy trunk route? Late finds include a section of Roman road just south of Sherburn-in-Elmet which heads due north-south. Interesting for this could redraw the whole map of Roman and mediaeval transport through our region. A route on this line certainly existed in medieaval times - Lord Norfolk used it to reach Towton. It would also explain why this great battle was fought where it was and not further east on the other main north-south trunk route.For if the modern Sherburn to Tadcaster road, the A162, did not have a very similar pre-road then the other possible tracks that brought the Lancastrian army to the site were far from capable of handling more than a very small percent of those who actually took part. Doubtless more work must be done to clear this question up.

Just one last point worth remembering on our area's Roman roads. As with today, not all Roman roadways were the heavy motorway style works that are shown in history books. These were the main arteries but were fed by a maze of lesser tracks that brought goods and people from villas and villages to their easier long-distance routes. Defining Roman country lanes from earlier or later tracks is nigh on impossible.

Tadcaster

Today's entry into Tadcaster on the A659 swings to the right as it crosses the old Roman road and heads down towards Tadcaster's most famous landmark - the brewery. But we will swing left as we pass the Tadcaster sign and follow the old Roman road line. Down into the old town we come into a one-way system which links the Roman road with the parallel medieval track - now the main road through the town and over the bridge.  When this old town first became a settlement of any size is not really known. Like Castleford it started on it's present way as a Roman fort protecting the river crossing. Calcaria was centred slightly to the north of the present-day bridge in the vicinity of the church.But again like Castleford it seems to quickly fade from the historical records and we have, as is so often the case, the Venerable Bede to thank for a mention of the place.

The Roman crossing point would seem, from the lines of known Roman roadway on both sides of the river, to have been by the church, in fact between the church and the motte of the medieval castle or fortified manor house. But the present bridge is around a hundred yards down stream of that point. A mirror image of what has happened at Castleford.

Tadcaster was granted a market on Tuesdays in 1271.

Bede, who died in 734, tells us that St. Heiv established a monastery at Hartlepool around 649AD and then retired to Calcaria where she founded another monastery. He calls the place Kaelcacaestir. The monastery she founded was likely at Healaugh to the east of the river. Then it all goes quiet. We hear virtually nothing of the town from then until the Domesday Book of 1086. There is one possible reference to Tadcaster in the Anglo-Saxon Chronicles with regard to King Harold. On his way to face the army of Tostig and Harald Hardrada in 1066 he is said to have lodged at "Tatha" the night before reaching York. Now this could have been Tadcaster or it may well have been Tateshalle, the old name for Pontefract.

1086AD and that wonderful mine of information; the Domesday Book sees a complete renaming of the town. Now it is Tatecastre. And it is easy enough to see where present-day 'Tadcaster' comes from. But why Kaelcacaestir vanished and just where the name 'Tatecastre' came from is less obvious. The record is shown thus: "Two Manors. In Tatecastre, Dunstan and Turchil had eight carucates of land for geld, where four ploughs may be. Now, William de Parci has three ploughs and 19 villanes and 11 bordars having four ploughs, and two mills of ten shillings (annual value). Sixteen acres of meadow are there. The whole manors, five quaranteens in length, and five in breadth. In King Edward's time they were worth forty shillings; now one hundred shillings."

It is notable that no church is listed. To give you a slightly better perspective, eight carucates is close to 1440 acres in our eyes. With two mills listed it was abviously quite a bustling settlement.

The bridge from the south with the church tower obvious in the background. Photo circa 1900.

And in 2001 - on the western bank, looking from the north.

Tadcaster Bridge. There has been a crossing over the river Wharfe at Tadcaster since Roman times. Originally a ford, the first bridge was probably a wooden structure and the first stone bridge was thought to have been built around 1200 with various reconstructions throughout the centuries. At 11am, Tuesday 7th December 1642, the Battle of Tadcaster took place on and around the old Tadcaster bridge between Sir Thomas Fairfax (Parliamentarian) and the Earl of Newcastle (Royalist). The present bridge was constructed around 1700 and widened in 1780 and again in the 19th century.

The old castle mound photographed over 100 years ago.

Just when the castle, or fortified manor house, was last in use is unknown but King John visited the town on the 14th and 15th of April 1209 so there must have been some building capable of housing his retinue. In 1270 a charter was granted by Henry III for a market and fair. Things were looking good for the town until a small problem called Bannockburn arose in 1314. Edward II's hapless mess at that battle left the north wide open to Scottish raids. Tadcaster was hard hit. The church was sacked and nearly destroyed and the whole town suffered so much it took a generation to even start to return to its former self. In 1290 the church was valued at £43.6s.8d and revalued in 1318 at just £28.6s. 8d.

St. Mary's Church.
The early wooden structure was rebuilt in stone around 1150. As we have said the church was burnt down by the Scots in 1318 when they ravaged the north of England. It was rebuilt about between 1380 and 1480. Subject, as it was, to frequent flooding it had to be improved so it was taken down stone by stone and rebuilt with the inner floor raised by 5 feet between 1875 and 1877 ; only the tower was left as it was. The money to pay for this work, £8426.4s.6½d, was raised by public subscription. In 1897 a new north aisle was built.

The church in 2001

The Arc - a lovely 15th century building

Tadcaster saw great slaughter in the aftermath of the Battle of Towton in 1461. There was a lesser killing field here during the English Civil War too. But still it survived - still it grew.....

Toulston Lodge - Tadcaster

Then we get on to the three business's that have made Tadcaster famous in latter days - BEER! BEER! BEER!

Sam Smith's
Samuel Smith's is a small, independent brewery, brewing at the oldest brewery in Yorkshire. The original well at the Old Brewery, sunk in 1758, is still in use. The brewing water for the ales and stouts is drawn from 85 feet underground.
The malt mixes with hard well water in copper mash-tuns. Fuggles and Goldings, the old fashioned varieties of hops that over the centuries have given the best British ales distinctive flavour are added later and boiled in 'coppers'.
Samuel Smith still ferments ale and stout in traditional Yorkshire stone 'squares' - roofed fermenting vessels made of solid blocks of slate. The yeast is of a strain that has been used at the Old Brewery continuously since the beginning of the last century, one of the oldest unchanged strains in the country, still as healthy and as active as ever frothing up into rich creamy heads.
The brewery cooper makes and repairs all the wooden casks used for the brewery's naturally conditioned 'Old Brewery Bitter'. Barrels, kilderkins and firkins are the traditional names used for the different sizes of casks, repaired with tools that have their names like 'patsy', 'chive' and 'adze'.
Grey shire horses weighing more than a ton each are kept in the stables at the Old Brewery making occasional deliveries of beer to a couple of pubs in the town.
Samuel Smith's Old Brewery is by far the smallest of the three breweries in Tadcaster.

Tower Brewery - Bass

The older buildings comprising of the Tower Brewery (famed for their Prize Medal bottled beer) were erected when Tadcaster Tower Brewery was founded in 1882. The Company was formed by a small group of 'honourable's', i.e. younger sons of baronets - hence the brewery became known locally as Snobs Brewery. The building site was bought from the (then) North Eastern Railway Company who had purchased the land from the local squire, Sir Edward Brooksbank, when Tadcaster was planned to be linked with the main network of railways in the North East. Sadly this project never came to fruition.

In 1946 Hammonds Bradford Brewery Co purchased the Tadcaster Tower Brewery Company. With more than 700 pubs the company was one of the largest brewing concerns in the country and it was decided to rename the company to Hammonds United Breweries Limited. In the late 1950's it was clear that the Tower Brewery was better placed for the expansion necessary to cope with increased demand, and it was decided to go ahead with the construction of a new bottling store. It was completed with 1959 together with a new administration block - this was the first substantial improvement since the brewery was built.

The 1960's saw the formation of Northern Breweries of Great Britain Limited by the merger of the Sheffield brewery Hope & Anchor (famed for its Jubilee Stout), H.U.B. and John Jeffrey & Co. Ltd, a much smaller company which operated the Heriot Brewery in Edinburgh. In 1962 United Breweries merged with Charrington's of London to form Charrington United Breweries making the company one of the largest brewing empires in Great Britain. The famous Toby Jug was taken as its emblem. 1967 the name changed above the door of Tadcaster Tower Brewery yet again when Charrington's merged with Bass, Mitchells and Butler, of the Midlands to form Bass Charrington.

John Smith's
Smith's company bears the name of a remarkable man. Born the son of a tanner, John Smith built a brewing business based on his entrepreneurial skills and personal commitment to quality. His Tadcaster brewery, acquired in 1847, responded to the new market opportunities generated by rapid population growth in northern towns during the Industrial Revolution.
The excellence of his ales paved the way for what has become Britain's most popular ale brand. The success story continues: a recent major expansion programme at Tadcaster has doubled capacity to keep in pace with growing demand.

So now, in fits and starts, we have moved up the old Roman road from Castleford to Tadcaster, 2000 years of feet, hooves and wheels. Time to head back south again through the old Kingdom of Elmet along a route that may well be just as ancient as the first 2000 year old stage.

What does  local historian   Harry Speight have to say about Tadcaster a century ago?

All comparative evidence on the early settlement of our country points clearly to the importance of Tadcaster
in prehistoric ages. Century after century, dynasty after dynasty, have come and gone and left us with but the husk of all their achievements, out of which— the scattered record, the lost relic and forgotten tomb—we must try and construe local life in the distant past. When the old Brigantian cities of York and Aldborough were in their prime—at a period dating back at least two thousand years - Tadcaster, too, like Ilkley in the Upper Dale I have elsewhere described, was a place of great esteem; both Ilkley and Tadcaster being, no doubt, important vanguards in the approaches to those cities. Between each of these places lay well-beaten trackways over the natural earth, for the Britons did not learn the art of paving until the Romans came, and these old British foot-roads were, when laid between important stations, utilized by the Roman conquerors as the lines of their wonderfully - constructed highways throughout the realm. Unlike the Saxons, the Romans too, conquered the British strong holds, appropriated the sites and raised their camps upon the older settlements.
The Saxons and Angles rarely appropriated British or Roman sites, but preferred to stake.out tons or enclosures of their own, yet in Yorkshire there are several proven instances, as at Aldborough and Ilkley, where Saxon churches have been raised within the areas of Roman camps. At Tadcaster, I opine, the original church was erected outside the area of the camp, probably for the reason that the site had been a pre-existing burial-ground, and so was chosen for its sacred associations, as we know was the case for the same reason in other places. Else there could have’ been no motive for erecting the church in such a low-lying position beside the river (unless, as I have explained elsewhere, the river was venerated), rendering the building liable to inundations, when higher and drier sites could have been got close at hand.  The Roman town at Tadcaster no doubt extended, as at Ilkley and other places, beyond the walls of the camp.
It can, therefore, as I have said, hardly be doubted that Tadcaster was a British outpost to York, connected with that city by an unpaved road, and as such an outpost it continued during the Roman occupa tion. It has been conjectured that it was the Calatum of Ptolemy, though this is not confirmed by Nennius, no very reliable authority, however, who flourished in late Saxon times. Nennius mentions 33 British cities, on the authority of “Mark, the anchorite,” a British Bishop. Amongst those named in the north are Caer Ebrauc (York), Caer Dazue (Doncaster), Cacr Caratauc (Catterick), and Cue Luilid (Carlisle), but singularly there is no mention or suggestion of Aldborough, in Yorkshire, which was beyond all question one of the most important Brigantian strongholds. Some, indeed, hold it to have been the capital settlement of the Brigantes, taking even precedence of York.
Moreover, there is other evidence that Tadcaster was a British city. I concur with Mr. Boyle in believing that its Roman name of Calcaria was but a Latinised form of a pre-existing Celtic name; exactly as we know was the case with the majority of the Roman towns mentioned in the Antonine Itinerary. In the first portion of the word there is a marked suggestion of the Celtic catch, lime, indicative of the character of the ground upon which the station is built. Kelso, in Scotland, anciently Calkou, has a precisely similar meaning, and so has Cealchythe, in Kent, where the great council of

Bishops was held in 816 and where the interesting enactment took place that all new churches should have inscribed on the wall or upon a tablet or else on the altar, the name of the holy person to whom the church was dedicated. Again a trace of the Celt may possibly be referred to the circumstance that about 1886 a human skeleton was discovered in the neighbourhood of the Applegarth, though the period to which it belonged cannot be stated with
certainty. It was unearthed in the vicinage of the Civil War entrenchments, but as a stone adze or axe-head was found in the skull, the interment may possibly belong to the Stone Age. The discovery was made in the course of excavations at the extension of Braime’s (Victoria) brewery. Dr. Tordoff, who examined the remains, informs me that the skeleton was that of an adult male person, but as the wisdom teeth were not cut, the unfortunate victim of the blow would not be more than 20 years of age. The weapon is formed of a hard bluish stone.
From the era of Antoninus (A.D. 138—161)- to the time of the Venerable Bede, who died in 734, we have no mention of Tadcaster; then we learn from this famous northern historian that the pious lady St. Heiv, after she had established a monastery at Hartlepool, Ca. 649, retired to the city of Calcaria, which he states is called by the English (Angle) people Kaelcacaestir (quae a  gente Anglorum Kalcacaestir),  where she founded another monastery (mansio). (See HEALAUGH.) This is the only allusion to Tadcaster in Saxon times, but it plainly shews that the place was known by its Roman-British name in the 7 century; Bede merely adding the A.-S. ceaster or ccaster, meaning a city or site, “applied from tile first to any place that bore signs of Roman building or fortification.” Camden, who appears to have derived some portion of his local information from a Mr. Robert Marshall, of Bickerton, also observes that an eminence near the town is called Kelcbar, which retained in his time (1551— 1623) something of the old name of Calcaria. This Kelcbar is at Smaws, on the road to Newton, where is a very old quarry of limestone. Bishop Gibson, the 18th century editor of Camden’s Britannia, refers to Newton Kyme as a probable site of the Roman Calcaria, in which, however, he is not supported by modern authorities. At Newton, he tells us, many Roman coins have been ploughed up, particularly of Constantius, Helena, and Constantine; also an urn or box of alabaster with only ashes in it ; melted lead and rings one of which had a key of the same piece joined with it. The road to York, he says, is firmer ground than that from Tadcaster, which would hardly be passable were it not for the causey made over the common between Tadcaster and Bilbrough, and he further adds that Newton was so called by the Saxons because they erected new buildings upon the foundations of the Roman town. But this I hold to be highly improbable for the reasons already stated; the Anglian settlers having chosen this site and named it Newton (new town) in contradistinction to the old town of Calcaria, about a mile lower down the river. Some have even suggested that the old caster or station at Tadcaster was called “T’aud caster,” which gave Calcaria its later name; the dialectal form of the A.-S. cold (old) being aud. This rendering, however, is one which might be shortest described as a good joke but a bad guess!
Our next probable reference to Tadcaster is in 1066, when, according to one of the latest contributors to the Saxon Chronicle, King Harold advanced towards York with his army to oppose the invasion of Tostig and Harald Hardrada. On Sunday, the 2 September, he is stated to have reached “Tatha,” and the next day marched to York, and afterwards to Stamford Bridge, eight miles further east, where a great battle was fought. This “Tatha” is presumed to be either Tadcaster or Pontefract, but as the former is only 9 miles from York and as Pontefract is 22 miles from York, it certainly seems more likely to be Tadcaster than the ha’, hall or abode of one Tata at Pontefract, the Tateshalle of Domesday. - But this Tatha, if it be Tadcaster, is a great stumbling block in the derivation of the Domesday name of Tatecastre (Tadcaster). If Tadcaster were actually known by the name of Tatha so soon before the Conquest (which I very much doubt), then the prefix Tate cannot be a personal name, although I hold this Tatha as the place Tadcaster not proven. I contend that in the prefix Tate is the name of the pre-Conquest owner of the caster or camp at Tadcaster, equally with the belief that Ebchester was Ebba’s chester, and Godmanchester Godmurid’s chester, or that Tatham in Amounderness was the obvious home or abode of one Tata or Tate. Thus we find in 1083-6 the old names of Calcaria and Kaelcacaster as completely changed as were those of Isurium to Aldburgh and Streaneschalch to Whitby in the Domesday survey.

It is now almost needless to contend for Tadcaster as the Roman Calcaria, in opposition to the opinion formerly advanced in favour of Newton Kyme. There is no Roman road from Newton Kyme to York. Newton Kyme lay on Watling Street, one of the four royal highways called in the Norman laws Quatuor Chirnini, which traversed the country from south to north, and which from Doncaster lay through Aberford across the Wharfe at Newton Kyme direct north to Aldborough (Isurium). Tadcaster was on Ermyn Street, which crossed Watling Street in the neighbourhood of Stutton, near to Headley Bar; the latter highway going due north by the road known here still as Rudgate to St. Helen’s ford. On the other side of the river the name of Rudgate is also retained for the old road by Wharton Lodge, east of Bickerton, which runs northwards through Chapel Hill to Aldborough. Tadcaster consequently lay more than a mile east of Watling Street, and this is confirmed by Leland, the State topographer (cii. 1540), who remarks “Tadcaster standeth a mile from Watling Street, that tendeth more toward Cairivel (Carlisle) and crosseth over Wherf at a place called St. Helensford, a mile and a half above Tadcaster, and on the other ripe (bank) is St. Helen’s Chapel.” Speaking of the situation of Tadcaster he observes “it standeth on the hither ripe of Wharf river and is a good thoroughfare. The bridge over Wharfe bath eight fair arches of stone. Some say that it was last made of part of the ruins of the old castle of Tadcaster. A mighty great hill, dykes, and garth of this castle on Wharfe be yet seen a little above the bridge. It seemeth by the plot that it was a right stately thing.”
“The mighty great hill” mentioned by Henry VIII.’s observant antiquary, has been unfortunately since his time so much destroyed, altered, and encroached upon by the growth of the town that it is at this day a matter of impossibility to define the precise extent and appearance of the old Roman camp. It seems to have been utilized by the Danes and converted into moated mounds, though originally it may have extended about 100 yards north and south from the river, a short distance above the bridge, but it is difficult to define its limits east and west, as it has been destroyed on the east side, but there is little doubt that the old Grammar School stands on its eastern verge, and that the school-playground has been excavated out of it. Judging from actual remains the camp or mounds do not appear to have extended more than 140 to 160 yards to the eastwards and not more than 100 yards towards the south: of similar extent, in fact, to the camp at Ilkley, and in all probability from its small size built at the same time, on the first Roman invasion of Yorkshire by Agricola in A.D. 79.
Whether the Tadcaster camp was re-constructed in stone in the time of the Emperor Severus, as was the case at Ilkley and other stations in Yorkshire, cannot now be determined. Every vestige of foundation or of stone walling has disappeared, and the only evidence of the existence of an ancient wall I have heard of is the discovery some forty years ago of a strong and rudely-constructed wall, four feet thick, bordering the river on the east side of the churchyard. But this wall I judge was merely a staith erected in later times to resist encroachments of the river upon the burial-ground. The present so-called “Castle Hill” extends from the north side of the church parallel with the river, and a good section of it is exposed behind the Castle Terrace. It is a thrown-up bank or earth-work, 20 to 30 feet high, composed of soil mixed with angular fragments of local stone, and there are no indications of its having been raised on an old glacial-mound as is the case in some places. It is wholly artificial. I learn that many Roman coins, urns, pottery, and other relics of early occupation have been found upon or near the site from time to time, but these have been dispersed. This is much to be deplored, as a single local collection possesses not only an antiquarian interest, but has historic value. But Tadcaster is not the only place that has failed to realize the importance of this, though doubtless here as elsewhere were local museums formed, many private collectors would be willing to part with their treasures to the care of places where they were found. About a century ago a very perfect bronze celt was found near the town, and is now, I understand, in the British Museum.

It possessed the peculiarity of having a ring of the same metal inserted through the handle of the celt, to which was also attached a small bead of jet. The appended engraving shews the combined objects exactly as found. It is hardly possible that the celt could have been worn as a charm; indeed Mr. Geo. Du Noyer
thinks the bronze ring which was looped to the ear of the celt, might have assisted in fastening it, while the second ring might be appliedto either of two purposes, (i) as a catch for a string-guard to be fastened to the wrist, or (2) to render the tying of the larger ring to the handle more easy and direct. Single coins, but no hoards, I understand, have been turned up at different times, particularly in the churchyard while digging graves. One of these, in possession of the vicar, I have seen. Though much defaced I read it as follows
Obv. IMP. c. M. CL [ Marcus Claudius] TACITVS P. [ F. [
AVG. (Head of Emperor).
Rev. TEMPORVM FELICITAS. (Standing figure holding an ensign in right
hand and a cornucopia in the left).
This is an interesting coin of the senator Tacitus, who traced his descent from the great historian of the same name. The senate elected him Emperor in 276, at the age of 75, but he reigned only 6 months and 20 days. His short reign, however, was one of great activity, and though little historic value .can be adjudged to the
record of a single coin, it proves however that Tadcaster was occupied after the reign of this Emperor, and doubtless continued a stronghold of the Romans until the evacuation ca. A.D. 418.
Furthermore a Roman wine or water-jug was found in Jan.,. 1893, by Mr. Wm. Dyson, of the Britannia inn, Tadcaster, while dredging for sand and gravel close to an island about 40 yards below Tadcaster Bridge. Its greatest circumference is 38 inches, and height 18 inches. The jar is enamelled a dark green colour, the enamel being almost perfect, and there are looped handles on two sides. This relic is now in possession of Dr. H. A. Allbutt, Leeds. In March, 1895, some men in the employ of Mr. C. Hodgson, were also getting sand from the river when they unearthed a similar kind of jar, but this was made of rough earthenware, unglazed, and is 14 inches high, and 37 inches round its widest part. Mr. Hodgson also possesses a smaller enamelled jar obtained from the same spot in 1897.
I may also add while discussing the subject of antiquities, that I have seen an ancient anchor, also dredged out of the Wharfe at Tadcaster. It is made of wrought-iron, much decayed; the bow of the anchor between its two extremities measuring 35 inches, and the shaft of oak being 57 inches long. It is evidently mediaeval.
It is very probable, for the reasons stated, that the site of the parish churchyard was a burial-ground of the Romans, and of their successors the Saxons and Danes, although many interments in Roman times were made beside the highway leading between Tadcaster and York. So plentiful have been such discoveries on this road that it has been called the “Street of Tombs.” In 1897 a stone- coffin was dug up in the grounds attached to the residence of Mr. E. P. Brett, on this road. It is fashioned out of a single block, and has a roof-shaped lid, and is now in the Museum at York. A complete skeleton was found in it. Another tomb, no doubt containing coeval remains, lies undisturbed beneath one of the houses in the Mount, close beside the last A tomb, 7- feet 6 inches long, composed of 18 ridged tiles, was also discovered in 1833 on the same road near Dringhouses. The tiles bore the impress of the Sixth Legion.
The direction of this road, I may further point out, affords proof of the position of the Roman Calcaria at Tadcaster and not at Newton Kyme. The road came down Garnett Lane, Station Road, and along the north side of the Parish Church, across the Wharfe, where I am told remains of an old pavement have been observed, and up Rosemary Lane on to the York Road, which it leaves at Tadcaster Bar. Thence it continues in a straight line by the Old Street, passing Street Houses, where it leaves the highway again, and continues through fields to the north of Copmanthorpe, joining the highway again at the inn known as the old Ginger Beer House, and so into York by Miciclegate Bar, and crossing the Ouse by a bridge near the present Guild Hall enters Westgate, York. All about Stutton and Hazeiwood are very ancient quarries, whence no doubt much of the material was obtained for building Roman York.

I shall refrain from any lengthy reflections on the Saxon and Danish occupation of the neighbourhood of Tadcaster, as at best the evidence is obscure. Coins of Olaf, who reigned in Northumbria between the years 940 and 951, have been found bearing the name  “T0D ;“ the place where they were coined. One such bears the legend: ANLAF REX T0D; the moneyers being RADULF and WADTER.
The late Rev. Daniel Haigh thought that owing to the frequent interchange of the letters A and o on these coins (cf. Anlaf, Onlaf, Onlof) there could be little difficulty in recognizing in the name TOD the old city of Tadcaster. In this case the city having a mint proves it to have been a royal residence, for the moneyers invariably
accompanied the King from place to place. A relic of Olaf or Anlaf, I may observe, was discovered some years ago in the Leeds Parish Church. It is part of a Runic cross bearing his name, and it would appear that much of the time of this Danish monarch had been passed between York and Tadcaster and Leeds. Mr. Geo. T. Clark, the well-known writer on military architecture in England, observes that at Tadcaster there are a group of earth works, which he refers to the same Danish period. I will quote at once what he says:
These earthworks are of considerable size and extent, and occupy a portionof rather low land on the right bank of the Wharfe, a little above the town and close to the parish church. The group contains three isolated conical mounds, about 30 to 40 feet high, and about o feet in diameter on the flat top. The most western of the three is very distinctly a moated mound, but it has been much mutilated to supply materials for banking out the river. From the other mounds it is divided by a very deep and broad ditch, which evidently was filled from the river, and is still (1880), when the river is full, flooded by water which rises through the gravely bottom.
The other two mounds are also separated by a very formidable ditch. Of these the one nearest to the river is the most considerable, and probably bore the shell keep of the castle, of which, however, no traces are now visible. In the skirts of the third mound, that nearest to the church, are two vaults, entered through a sort of pigstye or shed. Upon a very superficial view they did not appear to be very old, but they may have been the receptacles beneath a garderobe.” Finally Mr. Clarke concludes that the earthworks are not British, and notwithstanding the Roman history and name of Tadcaster, can scarcely be attributed to that people. They are more likely, he says, to be of northern origin and not improbably the work of Danish settlers, “of whom Anlaf or Olaf seems to have had a residence here towards the middle of the 10th century.”

The term “castle hill” applied to pre-historic earthworks, where no castle of masonry has ever stood, is not uncommon in this county and elsewhere. But in the case of the Tadcaster earthworks there are just grounds for assuming the existence, at some time, of a stone- built castle on these thrown-up mounds. A tradition of this kind seems always to have prevailed in the neighbourhood, and Leland, whom I have quoted a page or two back, refers to it in the 16th century. It is very probable that the castle was of pre-Norman date, but no documentary proof of a castle after the Conquest, nor any evidence of a license to crenellate is forthcoming, though it is not unlikely the Percies resided here before their local strongholds were built at Spofforth and Bolton Percy. William de Percy’s famous grant to the monks of Sallay, before 1168, was made in magno lacito apud Tadecastre, while King John, with his court, was at Tadcaster in 1209. Also in a grant by Edward II. of certain lands to the Priory of Knaresbro’, in the year 1318, the document is signed by the King at Tadcaster (Teste rege apud Tadcastre), which certainly supports the idea of a strong house or castle here at that time. Certain plants, now wild, also favour the idea that there were cultivated gardens about the old Castle Hill. The green hellebore, particularly, is said to be very partial to old ruins, and used at one time to grow very plentifully on this spot
It would also appear that Tadcaster was a royal residence in Danish times from the extent and quality of its manors on the Norman settlement. It is note worthy that it escaped the fury of the Conqueror’s vengeance, while the country around York and the county generally was sadly harried. The castle of King Olaf, if we are to believe that it stood here, was, doubtless, also the resting place of the English King Harold on his famous and victorious march to Stamford Bridge in 1066. His conquest, however, was of short duration, inasmuch as only three weeks later the fate of England was decided by his fall at Hastings, in October, 1066. Three years afterwards the army of the Conqueror, led by the monarch himself, advanced northwards, and having taken possession of the moated mound at Castleford and ordered the building of the castle at Pontefract, he went on to Tadcaster. If the castle or any part of it existed then, he probably directed its renewal here too. Thence he marched in the full vigour of conquest, to the capital city of York, where the native garrison at once laid down its arms, and he entered the city unopposed. Here also he ordered the castle to be rebuilt, probably as at Tadcaster, upon a Roman or Danish foundation. This was in 1069. Then followed that terrible devastation of our county, to which the enquiry instituted some fifteen years later bears such bitter testimony.

From the time of Olaf (ca. 950) to the reign of Edward the Confessor (1041—66) Tadcaster had been slowly progressing, but in the twenty years following the death of the Confessor, the town had advanced in importance by “leaps and bounds.” From this it would appear as if it had been intended to maintain the town as the prime stronghold of the new Norman lords, ere the licence was given to them to fortify their neighbouring manors at Spofforth and Bolton Percy. The Domesday record is this
Two MANORS. In Tatecastre, Dunstan and Turchil had eight carucates of land for geld, where four ploughs may be. Now, William de Perci has three ploughs and 19 villanes and i bordars having four ploughs. and two mills of ten shillings (annual value), and one fishery of five shillings (annual value). Sixteen acres of meadow are there. The whole manors, five quaranteens in length and five in breadth. In King Edward’s time they were worth forty shillings now one hundred shillings.
According to modern calculations these manors were cultivated on the three-field system, and the eight carucates were equivalent to 1440 statute acres, one-third of which lay annually fallow, and the other two-thirds, or 960 acres, paid tax.) The land, it should be noted, had more than doubled in value within a period of about twenty years, a period of great devastation and depreciation to the bulk of the country. Singularly, no church is mentioned, although in a plate so prosperous and populous, having two mills, we may be sure the worship of God would not be neglected. We may therefore take it that services were then held, as they often were in early times, in the open air, and that only a beautifully-wrought preaching- cross stood here until the new lord found time to arrange for the erection of a proper building after the completion of the survey in
1083—6. Had not Tadcaster been returned in the King’s great inquest as of such high value, I should have claimed a pre-Conquest church for the town, as the laws of Canute and his successors expressly support the view that in those reigns there were many churches which, owing to the destruction and loss of revenue caused by the Conquest, are not mentioned in the survey. But Tadcaster, like Percy’s manor of Spofforth, suffered no such loss.
In the Recapitulation the above 8 carucates are said to be still held by William de Percy. But there seems to have been another manor over the water, on the east side of the bridge, and this was probably the site in Domesday, where Ligulf had four carucates of land worked in the same manner by two ploughs. William de Percy had these too, besides four acres of meadow here
and half a fishery. In 1065-6 this manor had been worth 20 shillings., and
in 1083—6 its value remained the same.
There seems to have been some uncertainty, as I have before pointed out, with respect to the right of William de Percy to a number of his Yorkshire manors, and the men of Barkston came forward and affirmed that William Malet, the Sheriff, had “all Stauton (Stutton), three manors, three carucates of land, and one mill, and in Tatecastre (Tadcaster) two manors, two carucates, and two hovates, and one portion of the land of Turchil.” But as events proved, all three manors on both sides of the Wharfe fell into the hands of Percy, and Tadcaster became the most valuable of all his possessions. This potent companion-in-arms of the Conqueror received more than ioo manors in different parts of Yorkshire, besides many others in Lincolnshire. His brother Serb was Prior of Whitby, and William gave to him “and the monks,” the town of Whitby and the port there, &c., wherewith to re-build and endow the monastery in that town. William accompanied the famous expedition to the Holy Land in 1096, but died at Mountjoy, near Jerusalem, where he was buried, yet the heart of the great warrior, say the old chroniclers, was brought back to Whitby. His eldest son, Alan the Great, married Emma, daughter of Gilbert de Gant, and from whom in the female line, the present Duke of Northumber land derives his descent.
Alan de Percy died in 1120 and was buried at Whitby Abbey. His eldest son and heir, William de Percy, married a daughter of Everard de Ros, and died in 1133, leaving an only recorded son William, who was the founder in 1147 of Sallay Abbey (Selby), and died in 1168. The pedigree in Whitaker’s Cra omits William, the father, and names only one son of Alan, whereas Alan had at least eight sons, as is shewn on the annexed pedigree. William left two daughters, co-heiresses, the elder of whom, Maud, married William, Earl of Warwick, and gave Tadcaster Church to Sallay Abbey; but in a Calendar of Papal Letters, dated 1218, recently transcribed from registers in the Vatican, it is stated that the right of patronage had been granted to the monks by Matilda, Countess of Warwick, and William de Percy, a document I shall refer to again in dealing with the church.

Whether the Percies still maintained the old castle at Tadcaster is problematical, but on April 14-15th, 1209, the town was visited by King John, and there must have been a house of importance to accommodate the monarch and his retinue. At this time the Norman Barons were actually, if not in name, the greatest power in the land, and they resented the grinding imposts laid upon them by the despotic King. John’s visit to Tadcaster would be countenanced but not welcomed, and there is small doubt he would be received with mock joy. The Barons were shortly afterwards in open rebellion, and the King was compelled to acknowledge their power and many common grievances, by publicly signing Magna Charta (1215), which restored and confirmed the liberties of his subjects in all cities, towns, and ports in the kingdom. Suitors were no longer, by this grand concession, compelled to follow the King in his progresses; assizes were to be taken in authorised places, and justice by fair trial, brought home to every man’s door. In 1206 the King’s Court was at Doncaster and William de Percy was one of the six justices who sat there. In 1208 the Court was held again at Doncaster and also at York, and among the eight justices present was Robert de Percy. This Robert was not lord of Tadcaster, as according to the Red Book of the Exchequer giving Knight’s Fees in 12th and 13th John (1210-11),  William de Percy is declared to be then seized of 15 Knight’s Fees (a very large and remarkable holding) of the Honour of Tadcaster.
There was a Robert de Percy living at Bolton Percy in 1276, and he it was who granted to Archbishop John Rornanus free passage for the transport of stone from the quarries at Tadcaster to York. The charter is printed in the Monasticon (iii., 163), and though undated, must have been written before 1290-I, when Archbishop Romanu began the building of the noble nave of York Minster. But long before this date the old quarry in Thevedale had been granted to the Chapter by William de Percy for material to erect the Minster, that is the south transept, begun early in the pontificate of Archbishop Gray (1215-1255). A right of free passage along an ancient cart-road to the quarry, was also granted to the Chapter by Robert le Vavasour, about the same time. This William de Percy, who was the justice, above mentioned, died in 1244, and his son Henry, who died and was buried at Selby Abbey in 1272, obtained a charter from King Henry III. in 1270, to hold a market and fair at his manor of Tadcaster. The charter, preserved in the Public Record Office, is so much stained and in such bad condition, that I am unable to present a transcript of it. It is, however, ratified to be held weekly, on Tuesday.
Henry, son of Henry de Percy, in 1295 obtained a further royal concession, in that he had granted the right of free warren, that is to take conies, pheasants, woodcock, and other game in his demesne lands at Tadcaster. So jealous were the feudal monarchs of encroachments upon the royal forests, that a Crown license was necessary before any man could take as much as a rabbit off his own land.
I have just mentioned the old quarries at Huddleston, which have, doubtless, been worked, as already explained, from Roman times. When the Minster was commenced, traffic along the old Roman road, between these places, would be considerably increased, and a bridge over the Wharfe at Tadcaster would be a necessity. Although the bridge did exist, I find from the Fabric Rolls of the Minster that the stone was conveyed in wains from the quarries in Thevedale to the water-side at Tadcaster, and thence transported by boat to York (per navem a Tadcastre nsque Ebor). In 1419 I find the large sum of £6 paid for the transport by boat of 200 measures of stone from Tadcaster to York. In the will of William Barker, of Tadcaster, dated Oct. 22nd, 1403, a bequest is made to the fabric of the Minster for “caryyng unius shypfull petrarum per aquam;” a curious admixture of English and Latin, by the way; but the statement shews that the river and not the road was the common highway of goods traffic in those days.
The quarries named had a wide reputation, and stone from them was sent to many other places in England besides York. Sculptured fragments of the Tadcaster stone may be found here and there in Yorkshire, built into church and monastic walls of millstone-grit and other stone. In the gritstone walls of Bingley Church, in Airedale, are several such odd pieces. In 1281 the canons of the church of Howden had a quarry “in Tevesdale, adjoining the King’s quarry”. In 1291 the Abbot and Convent of Selby obtained a charter, entitled Carta de Quareva, from the Prior of Marton, in the Forest of Galtres, granting them permission to work three acres of a quarry in Theves dale, near Tadcaster, between the quarry of the Abbot and Convent of Thornton and that of’ the Prior and Convent of Drax. We have here evidence that at this time the quarries were being worked\by at least three monasteries, in addition to the Canons of Howden and the Chapter of York. That Drax Abbey was one of them is interesting because it shews that the fragments in Bingley Church, above alluded to, came from these quarries, as the church, down to the Dissolution, was a possession of that Priory.
But while discussing the subject of these quarries and the transport of material, let me once more turn to the bridge. William de Percy, I have observed, was lord of Tadcaster in 1272, and in the following year, I find from the records in the Hundred Rolls, that upon a commission issued 2nd Edward II., it was found that toll was taken by John le Vavasour, at his lime-mill at Sutton (?Stutton), near Tadcaster; also by Baldwin Wake at Kirkby (Wharfe); while the bailiff of the lady the Queen took toll at the bridge of Tadcaster, but by what warrant the jurors know not. The bridge had, doubtless, been erected by one of the early Percies, and on the death of Henry de Percy, Queen Eleanor became the guardian of his heir, who was a minor. But Magna Charta had, by one of its clauses, expressly prohibited the erection of new bridges so as to burden and oppress the neighbourhood, and it would appear that Tadcaster Bridge had then existed “time out of memory,” for the jurors, in 1273, were ignorant as to the origin of the toll that was then levied upon those who used it. It was not until 1530 that the first statute was passed relegating the custody of the principal highways and bridges to the county. Many of the old roads and bridges had been constructed by private bounty, and their owners exacted tolls, which in some cases have been maintained irrespective of successive statutes regulating the conduct of more recent public highways. Thoresby, in his Diary, says that he “returned by Scholes over another part of Winmoor,” where he “observed the toll-gatherer’s booth, where the agents of Sir Thomas Gascoigne are ready to receive toll of the carriages, which at a penny a pair of wheels, amounts to a considerable sum.”
But to continue the story of Tadcaster from the prosperous reign of Edward I. An enquiry had been held in 1258 to ascertain the extent and value of the manor, from which it would appear that many of the tenants had been enfranchised, and that a large part of the estate had been disposed of. In 1284 the Percies held only four carucates of land in Tadcaster, where ten carucates make a knight’s fee, which they held of the King in capite, paying 4s. annually to the Sheriff’s fine. When King Edward’s eldest daughter was married, in 1290, Henry de Percy contributed 16s., being his quota for Tadcaster, of the levy of 40s. on every knight’s fee in the kingdom. Thus the Percies had been well disposed towards their Tadcaster tenantry, giving them every encouragement, and they now owned only half the quantity of land here which they did in 1083. There seems to have been no local grants to the monasteries.
It is interesting to note that in 1258 there were three water-mills here (two mills had sufficed for the population in 1083), which with fishing, yielded to the lord 8 marks annually. He had also a court with garden, let out to farm, which produced 50s. yearly. Though no hail, manor-house or castle, is specified by name, the reference to a manor-court and garden, suggests the existence, past or present, of a capital-mansion, perhaps then in decay, and worth nothing beyond reprises. Six of the tenants were bond in body and goods to the lord, just as the dog and his kennel are to his master at the present day, to be destroyed or disposed of as the master pleaseth. The lord had also an oven or bakehouse in the town, where the tenants were obliged to bake their bread and pay for so doing. Many of these old feudal bakehouses can still be traced, as at Leeds and Skipton.

Chapter III

The accession of the hapless Edward II. brought the serpent out of his lair, and for a long period it hung
relentlessly upon mart and cross. The disasters of this reign brought misery and poverty to the town. The
victory at Bannockburn in 1314 brought the marauding Scots like locusts into the district, who ate up the best they could find, carried off the cattle, and brutally ill-treated the inhabitants, many of the stronger of whom fled for their lives, conveying as much corn away as they could. The Scots also entered the church, sacked, and nearly destroyed it; the manor-house, with its chapel, in Tadcaster East also went, as the pre-existing castle or manor-seat of the Percies, near the church, would appear to have been not then in existence. This was in 1318, when the Percies had already, ten years before, built and strongly fortified their castles at Spofforth and Leckonfield. In the year of Bannockburn an inquisition had been made touching the possessions of the Yorkshire lordships, when it was found that Percy held Tadcaster of the King in caftite by knight service. The Percies were in the thick of the campaigns that followed, but the Engli